Category Archives: Italy

Merlot and Pinot Noir Knock It Out of the Park!

04 Sunday Nov 2012

Posted by in Italy, Washington State

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The two wines I’m catching up on tonight were big surprises for me for different reasons. One was a wine I generally find “blah” (that’s a technical term) and the other was a big surprise from an unlikely location.

Tamarack Cellars 2008 Merlot – I don’t dislike Merlot nearly as much as I often find it uneven, uninteresting, and over ripe.

I was picking wines for a big dinner at work and tasted the Tamarack and was blown away by the dark fruit, chocolate, and spice of the Washington state wine. It’s 90 percent Merlot with a splash of Cabernet and Cab Franc sourced from the Columbia Valley.

This Merlot had structure and secondary flavors of cocoa powder, maybe a slight hint of cinammon or one of those pumpkin pie spices. It was just wonderful with the steak we had at the dinner.

Wine Enthusiast liked this wine too, awarding it 92 points. Robert Parker at Wine Advocate gave the juice an 88, a bit down from Enthuisast obviously but still a good score.

I’d recommend this wine to anyone wanting a nice wine with a beef dish. It has a richness and structure that an awful lot of Merlot lacks.

This was simply one of the best U.S. Merlots I’ve tasted in a long, long time. I did buy this wine in Indiana.

Tamarack Cellars 2008 Merlot, $19-$26, Highly Recommended.

Peter Zemmer Alto Ridge Pinot Noir – Pinot from Italy! Seriously! Sure, I know the Italians grow some Pinot Noir and I’ve tasted just a few but this one was darn nice wine.

This area is up near Austria in Italy and clearly takes advantage of the higher altitude to produce very enjoyable Pinot. It was fairly light on the palate but had true Pinot characteristics for my palate. It has soft cherry and some floral hints on the nose and taste. It also had that silky quality I love in Pinot Noir!

Peter Zemmer Alto Ridge Pinot Noir, Around $20, Recommended.

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An Easy-Drinking Cab and Chianti Red Wine

02 Friday Nov 2012

Posted by in California, Italy, Napa/Sonoma

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Being way behind on wine mentions/reviews, time to catch up.

Here are some thoughts on really easy to find California Cabernet and Italian Chianti. I’d argue these are two wines you should always have on hand. A nice, easy-to-drink Cab for beef and a nice Chianti for pasta of fava beans in case Anthony Hopkins is a dinner guest!

Robert Mondavi Central Coast 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon – This wine is available, most probably, in your supermarket. Frankly, for $11 or less, you can do much worse. This wine does not have strong Cabernet characteristics but its quite drinkable. And after all, isn’t that always the real test?

The wine is 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Syrah, 3% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot, 1% Malbec and 1% Cabernet Franc from California’s Central Coast. It’s soft, It;s red. It tastes pretty good.

I drank this wine with some mildy spicy pasta and then with some chocolate and found it enjoyable. I love wines like this because they are easy to find and easy to drink.

Mondavi has repackaged this line with a focus on Central Coast fruit. The Mondavi Private Selection remains one of the best values for drinkability in the supermarket and elsewhere.

Robert Mondavi Central Coast 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon- SRP $11, (trade sample), Recomended. Try this wine for $9-$11. It works at that price point.

Banfi 2010 Chianti Superiore –  Wine Spectator gave this wine an 87 and that’s about right. This is much like the Mondavi above. Is it a true representative of great Sangiovese, well – not quite. Is it drinkable and enjoyable – well, yes it is!

It has some cherry and a little astringency but a drinkable bottle of wine. If you have some pasta with tomato sauce or tomato based it will work well.

This wine can be found really cheap and in lots of liquor stores and wine shops. There is nothing special about it other than its simple drinkablility without any negatives. For the price, go out and buy it.

Banfi 2010 Chianti Superiore – SRP $11, (trade sample), Recommended Look around and you might find this bottle at $9-$10.

 
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Nothing Like the Food and Wine in Italy

06 Wednesday Jun 2012

Posted by in Italy

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I’m just a few days removed from a week in Italy and still basking the the culinary afterglow.

Anyone who has been there knows the feeling. Italy is such a beautiful country with so much art, history, and culture it sends the senses into overload.

I was in Siena and Assisi for work and not wine writing. Frankly, I had hoped to have a little time to do some wine work but it just didn’t happen. I work at a small private liberal arts college and was there on an alumni travel trip.

Federico Pieri, Cantina del Brunello

We had some fabulous meals and great wine throughout the seven days I was on the trip. Much of that experience is detailed in this related photo album.

But a few conclusions, obvious and not so much. Italians make the best pasta in the world; pizza – not so much.

The Rosso wines of the Montalcino region far surpass the Chianti Rosso wines. As a matter of fact, I’m nearing the conclusion that a good bottle of Rosso Montalcino might be one of the great wine buys in the world.

I was fortunate to taste a lot of Brunello. But with a spread of Italian meats, cheese, and bread, nothing beats wines from the Montalcino region. I’m not sure if it matters whether your drinking a $40-$60 bottle of Brunello or $20-$20 bottle of Rosso, the atmosphere, scenery, and wonderful Italian people combine for moments to remember.

I did have two wonderful finds. I was on the trip for just one day in Assisi in the Umbria region. I returned early while the rest of the trip had another week. We had a marvelous dinner in Assisi which included ravioli with truffle, penne pasta with veal and more.

But it was the two wines that knocked me out. We had a Grechetto and Rubesco. I have had  Grechetto on a previous occasion and just loved it. It is often blended with other white grapes though our bottle didn’t offer any additional information.

So maybe we got a little sloppy pouring!

The Rubesco was a new experience and I found it  delightful for a value-priced wine. It is Sangiovese (70%) and Canaiolo (30%) which has been designated a proprietary blend for Lungarotti. If you find it and like Italian food and wine, buy it.

I found two wonderful wine shops while in Siena. Federico Pieri who owns Cantina del Brunello along one of the winding streets not far off Siena’s famed Piazza del Campo. His sign out front said “80 Brunellos” and there must have been at least that many.

The other shop La Cantina Dei Tolomei Prodotti Tipici (and I need to double check the name Thursday in the office) was my absolute favorite. I found it two years ago and returned. A young proprietor named Paulo and his girlfriend run the great little shop. It’s on the one of the main streets which eventually runs right down behind the Piazza del Campo with exits directly onto the amazing space.

Now it’s getting back to the wine writing routine.

I may have a really exciting trip coming up later this month. But I need to be assured of final details before going into it here.

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Two Really Good Whites & a Great Red Under $20

19 Thursday Apr 2012

Posted by in California, France, Italy

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Pinot Grigio has never been one of my favorite wines. I have never found them very interesting or particularly satisfying. There may be as much bad Pinot Grigio on the market as any other varietal. They are often flabby or flat or thin – just choose your adjective.

But I have two Pinot Grigios as great price points worth your trouble. When the grape is done right, this is a refreshing and lighter white wine for entertaining and lighter meals.

Ca’ Montini Terre di Valfredda 2010 Pinot Grigio – This might be, no probably is, the best Pinot Grigio I’ve ever had. This Italian winery was founded in the 1700s in the Veneto region. This is a family winery known for its Pinot Grigio and it shows up from the first sip until the last drop.

This Pinot Grigio provides a full-flavored wine for the palate. It’s golden in color, fragrant with flowers and has a nice hint of lemon with a bit of a sour fruit finish. You’ll get a bit of terroir and minerality.

The distinctive bottle will standout on the shelf and prove itself as a distinctive wine to serve your guests this summer season.


Ca’ Montini Terre di Valfredda 2010 Pinot Grigio, SRP $14.99, Trade Sample, Highly Recommended.

Robert Mondavi Private Selection 2011 Pinot Grigio – I’ve become a fan of the Mondavi Private Selection label because it offers good wines for a very affordable price. The Private Selection is available in many liquor stores, supermarkets and any where you might expect to buy value wine.


One of the real attributes of the label is that the different wines are consistently well made. This isn’t your typical $10 swill. Now, it’s not going to please your taste like a $20 wine either but I’d suggest it competes with the highly competitive $12-$16 market.

Mondavi draws upon vineyards in Monterey, San Benito, and Santa Barbara to make this 12.5 percent alcohol white wine.

To my palate it has hints of grapefruit and lime with really moderate acidity. But this wine as a great value. You might be surprised how refreshing a $10 wine can be!


Robert Mondavi Private Selection 2011 Pinot Grigio, SRP $9.99, Trade Sample, Recommended

Gerard Bertrand Grand Terroir 2007 Tautavel – From the Cotes du Roussillon in Southern France this easy drinking, fruit forward, red is a nice bottle of value wine. I got chocolate and black raspberries on my palate so when I find two of my favorite things – be it dessert or a red wine – I’m going to like it a lot.


Wine Spectator gave the wine a surprising 91 points. But some of the citizen review sites like Snooth and CellarTracker were not quite as kind. CellarTracker contributors gave the wine an average of 88 points but many of the comments were dismissive of the wine as “just okay.”

The wine is made of 50 percent Grenache, 35 percent Syrah, and 15 percent Carignan. It’s definitely a “ripe fruit” style of wine with hints of spice. 

I’m not sure I’d go as far as 91, if I used such a scale, but I think it’s great drinking wine at a good price. If you haven’t had much of the Languedoc-Roussillon appellation, this wine is a great introduction.


Gerard Bertrand Grand Terroir 2007 Tautavel, $14.99, Recommended

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An Italian, Languedoc, and NZ Wine Good Picks

29 Thursday Mar 2012

Posted by in France, Italy

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This wine review update includes a really nice Italian, dynamite Southern France red, and an affordable, dependable New Zealand Sauv Blanc.

Piancornello 2009 Rosso di Montalcino – This Sangiovese based wine from Tuscany’s Montalcino region delivers for the price point.

I like Sangiovese and enjoy most Italian wines. So many of the cheaper Chianti wines are harsh, unbalanced, and overly acidic. For Italian novice wine fans, the Rosso Montalcino is essentially the table wine of the great Brunello region.

I found the wine smooth with dark cherry, berry,  and earthy characteristics. This is great red wine for pasta. This is also a wine that you can find anywhere from $14.99-$23. Robert Parker gave the Rosso 90 points.

I’d also add for those who have a hard time tracking down particular wines, look for a Rosso di Montalcino. They are affordable and in many ways better than a Chianti at the same price point.

Piancornello 2009 Rosso di Montalcino, $21.99, Recommended.

Paul Mas 2009 Carignan Vieilles Vignes – This is great wine from Southern France. I’m really falling for Languedoc wines and particularly 100 percent Carignan. The grape is a bit of a rascal. It can be fickle for growers and can be quite tanninic and acidic.

The wine has a real terroir-driven taste. You get a mouthful of dirt with this southern French grape. There is really dark fruit like plum and spice like cinnamon. This is dry red wine that  provides wine drinkers something really different.

The alcohol is in check with this wine at 13.5 percent.  The richness of this wine comes from Carignan vines that are more than 50 years old.

If you want to try something different at an affordale price point, look for some 100 percent Carignan from Southern France.

Paul Mas 2009 Carignan, $14.99, Indy’s Cork & Cracker, Highly Recommended


Fire Road 2011 Sauvignon Blanc – This is a really nice Sauv Blanc that consistently delivers for a $12 wine. This is the wine you want for your Salmon or chicken off the grill
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The Sauv Blanc is a little lighter bodied than many and certainly not quite as acidic. There is good acid on the finish but not what many would be looking for in a traditional Sauv Blanc.

Tasting notes I found online talked about flavors of gooseberry, which I can’t deny, but I get typical crisp lemon and grapefruit citrus.

This is a great choice for about any seafood.

Fire Road 2011 Sauvignon Blanc, $11.99 at Cork & Cracker, Recommended. Can be found as low as $9.

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Catching Up On Recent Great Wines

19 Monday Mar 2012

Posted by in Italy, Paso Robles & Mendocino, South America

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Time to catch up on some recent wines I’ve enjoyed. There is a wide spectrum of wines in this group and certainly something for everyone’s palate. I’m on a roll lately – these are all great wines!

Lioco Mendocino County 2010 Rose’ – I like my Rose’ and have made that clear here previously. This is one to try for those folks who turn their nose up at ‘pink wine.’ Take a sip of this ultra-dry Rose’ and you’ll forget any physical resemblance to some White Zinfandel. You might even think you’ve landed in Southern France where the Carignan grape reigns king.

This California wine is 100 percent Carignan and is just delightful. It’s old vine grapes which makes for a full-flavored wine. It’s color is closer to salmon than pink. It has just a hint of watermelon with more pronounced strawberry – not just strawberry, but strawberry picked fresh from the vine.

This fabulous Rose’ would be awesome with crackers and cheese, heavy crusted bread, grilled fish or a mushroom dish. I bought this bottle at Cork & Cracker in Indianapolis. 

Lioco Mendocino County 2010 Rose‘, $14.99, Very Highly Recommended

LangeTwins Winery Midnight Reserve – This Cabernet, Petit Verdot, Merlot, and Malbec blend is a really very nice big, but still smooth, red wine blend. Considering it’s a Lodi, California, blend, many would expect this to be huge fruit and powerful alcohol but its really neither. The alcohol comes in at a relatively modest 13.6 percent while the fruit is silky smooth and nicely balanced.

This juice was honored at a number of California wine competitions and it’s easy to see why with its nice fruit and balance. If you like a little bigger and rich, the LangeTwins is nice wine. It is distributed in Indiana.

LangeTwins Winery Midnight Reserve, $30, Highly Recommended

Cantina del Taburno Falanghina – If you don’t like this white wine, you don’t like white wine. Italy produces some delightful light-bodied whites and this one is right there with  more fruit than many you may have sampled.

Okay, so you’ve never heard of “Falanghina.” Don’t feel bad. It comes from a coastal region in Italy north of Naples. The wine is smooth with nicely balanced fruit. I got a lot of pear on my palate but you might find some almond or nectarine.

The best thing I can say about this white is you’ll want to drink it. I found it online for $14-$17. I bought this wine at Grapevine Cottage in Zionsville near the higher end of that range. 

Cantina del Taburno Falanghina, $16,99, Highly Recommended


Trivento Amado Sur 2010 Malbec – You want a bargain? You want a bang-for-your-buck wine? Here you go. The Trivento Amado Sur is a great value line from Argentina’s Mendoza region. The wine is a really nice balance between 80 percent Malbec, 10 percent Bonarda and 10 percent Syrah.

Argentina has been doing these three grapes in grand style for a number of years. This a  blend that I would use to move newbie wine drinkers away from Cab and Merlot. It’s a great introduction to a varietal that has changed the entire perception of South American wines. The taste will give you a rich dark fruit and hints of pepper. The wine would pair nicely with pork or seasoned chicken off the grill.

Trivento Amado Sur 2010 Malbec, Trade Sample, widely available around $11, Highly Recommended



Calcu 2008 Carmenere Reserva   –  I’ve never been overwhelmed by any Chilean Carmenere. It’s different. It has a taste profile different than most wines but I’ve found most of it pretty average, but drinkable, juice. I was pleasantly surprised by this trade sample of Calcu.

This wine had nice blackberry and spice. It was smooth without a funk or harshness many previous Carmeneres left me tasting. Chile’s Colchagua Valley is one of the hottest wine regions in Chile. The Carmenere, Syrah, and Cabernet offerings are worth a try.

This wine would work with grilled meats, probably big enough for that charred steak if you want something other than Cab or a big Malbec.

 Calcu 2008 Carmenere Reserva, Trade Sample, around $13-$14, Recommended


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Two Great Reds: An Italian Value & California Bargain

14 Tuesday Feb 2012

Posted by in California, Italy, Napa/Sonoma

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Any time you can find a special-occasion wine for $20 and a real value for $11 it’s been a good week.

I have received several trade samples of Arnaldo Caprai’s Italian wines and finally got around to opening one over the weekend. I think it has great value for $20. The other trade sample I opened Sunday night was a Meritage from Robert Mondavi. It was equally surprising and wonderful.

Arnaldo Caprai 2009 Montefalco Rosso DOC – Here is an affordable wine that value drinkers can designate for a special occasion. The wine is 70 percent Sangiovese (same as Chianti), 15 percent Sagrantino (found only in Umbria), and 15 percent Merlot. The Montefalco region is south of Perugia in Umbria.

When I first opened the bottle I thought it was nice enough, though a little light. It was well balanced but rather unremarkable. But wait, after an hour or more of breathing the dark rich fruit opened up, maybe a little sour cherry, and as smooth and rich as Italian wines at this price point can be found.

The wine had a dry and lingering finish I really enjoy. I had the Montefalco with some pretty simple pasta but I could also see it with uncomplicated beef dishes. And the mouth feel is light enough to enjoy with cheese. How about some Parmesan Reggiano drizzled with balsimic vinegar? Yummy!

I almost always check out wines on consumer review sites after I’ve scribbled down my notes and thoughts. I often go to sites like Cellartracker and others. I was amused to find this wine rated from 83 points to 91 points. I certainly would be much closer to the 91.

Arnaldo Caprai is known for his work with Sagrantino. I have two bottles at home, both samples, and plan to open one as early as this weekend. It’s something of a rare grape so it is at a price point much higher than the Montefalco. I can’t wait to try that one if the Rosso is any example of the style of winemaking.

Arnaldo Caprai 2009 Montefalco Rosso DOC, Avg U.S. Price: $19, Trade Sample, Highly Recommended 

Robert Mondavi Private Selection Meritage – I’ve tasted several wines from the Mondavi “Private Selection” label over the past year and been impressed almost every time. This is Mondavi’s entry level or call them ‘supermarket’ wines if you wish. If only all supermarket wines offered the Mondavi consistency and winemaking effort!

The 2010 Meritage is a blend of 42 percent Cabernet, 30 percent Merlot, 20 percent Malbec, and 8 percent Petit Verdo. The grapes come from Monterey County, instead of Napa, off California’s Central Coash.

It’s easy to call this a traditional Bordeaux blend as you can read from the grapes above. Nothing will knock you out about this wine but it’s availability, price, and nicely balanced structure makes it a top choice of the grocery or liquor store shelf.

The most frequently asked question here and through my other wine writing is about good wines at a grocery price – the Mondavi Private Selection is good as any. Now, there are others and that’s for another time and day but the Meritage is a very nice red blend that comes across soft, drinkable, and affordable. And my experience with wines at this price point and target audience is that you’ll often find them below the suggested retail price.

Robert Mondavi 2010 Meritage,  SRP $11, Trade Sample, Recommended

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Wine from Italy’s Organic Pioneers

07 Tuesday Feb 2012

Posted by in France, Italy

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Much of Europe is way ahead of the United States when it comes to the demand and supply of organic products.

Ivo Nardi, one of Italy’s leading organic wine producers, makes the Italian sparkling wine Prosecco and has become one of that nation’s organic farming method leaders.

Nardi’s Perlage label was one of 587 at Millesime Bio organic trade wine fair in Montpellier, France, Jan. 23-25. I attended the wine fair as part of a press trip sponsored by AIVB, the French Languedoc wine region trade association. 
The Millesime Bio is in its 19th year. It’s an international trade show allowing wineries to connect directly to importers from countries around the world. All participating wineries are certified organic by their national governing bodies to be eligible for participation.
Ivo Nardi, right, toasting sales manager Marcella Callegari.

Nardi and his brother Claudio have run Perlage since its founding in 1985. Prosecco is the far northeastern region about an hour from Venice. 

The Nardi brothers began to use organic farming techniques in their vineyards from the very beginning.  In 2005, Perlage began working in biodynamic agricultural practices.
A basic understanding of organic versus sulfite-free is necessary for U.S. consumers. The Food and Drug Administration has ruled, as recently as Dec. 2010, that wines sold in the U.S. can only be called organic if they are 100 percent sulfite free. Most European standards allow some use of sulfites to preserve the wine.
Therefore, a bottle of European wine will be labeled “produced with organically grown grapes” if it’s sold in the United States.  And that’s a point that doesn’t set well with European producers. Still, European organic growers use the absolute minimum sulfites needed.
Nardi insists the demand for organic products is higher in Europe than elsewhere.  He tells the story of selling 10,000 bottles of Perlage wines to a grocery chain in Holland. The buyers were reluctant worried if the product would sell. But the wines started flying off the shelves because the product was good – organic or not. That supermarket chain ended up selling 100,000 bottles in six months, Nardi said.
Nardi discussing his wines with importer Paul Chartrand

“We have a dream not just to be organic but that all of the production of DOCG Prosecco becomes organic within 3-4 years from now,” Nardi said. “We would like to increase our research on all of our production with the goal to reduce sulfites in all of our wines. The knowledge we gain helps with all of our wines.

“The philosophy in biodynamics is better responsibility and better relationship between man and the environment.”
But organic and biodynamic practices are difficult for farmers. They don’t use pesticides, herbicides, or any chemical products in the production of their wines. Cleanliness in handling the product, the exposure to oxygen, and cleanliness in bottling is far more critical than in traditional wine making processes.
During the Millesime Bio I tasted through the Perlage wines, particularly their Proseccos. We tasted the wonderful and groundbreaking Perlage Animae. It’s groundbreaking because it is 100 percent sulfite free. It was every bit as palate pleasing as the other four Prosecco wines we tasted. It retails in the U.S. for $29.99.

Prosecco is a delightfully affordable and refreshing sparkling wine made largely around the district of Valdobbiadene. Good Prosecco choices can be found from a variety of producers for less than $20. It has softer bubbles and a softer taste than many sparkling wines.

Perlage wines are widely available in the U.S. and imported by Chartrand Imports of Maine. Indiana’s Graybull Wines distributes Perlage. The label is also available in Illinois.
Perlage Sangiovese and two of its Prosecco sparklers are available in Indiana. Derek Gray said his biggest selling Perlage label is the Pinot Grigio.

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White Bordeaux,Chianti Classico from Organic Grapes

31 Tuesday Jan 2012

Posted by in France, Italy

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It’s time to get back to some specific wines and I have tasted two since returning from France which are available in the United States and made from organically grown grapes.

Chateau Laubarit 2007 Entre-Deux-Mers – Or, we’re talking white Bordeaux if that makes things a little easier. Forget it’s Bordeaux and you can forget it’s French. This is great white wine.

The white is a blend of  60 percent Sauvignon Blanc, 20 percent Semillon, and 20 percent Muscadelle. It’s a white you could drink alone, as a cocktail or with dinner. I served a guest, who is not a big white drinker, this wine with roasted pork chops and roasted herbed potatoes and he loved it!

This is easy drinking wine with enough complexity to satisfy any wine drinker. The Semillon and Muscadelle give the wine a super soft palate feel. The alcohol content is a low 12 percent. At $16, you won’t find a white that drinks any easier with this much palate pleasing presence.



Julien grabs a bottle for the photo!

Casina Di Cornia 2005 Chianti Classico Reserva – This winery was my very first stop during my recent trip to the Millesime Bio in Montpellier, France. I met  Julien Luginbuhl who just returned to his family wine-making business within the last year.

I love Chianti but find the quality so uneven with dollops of Merlot and uneven acid in many of the wines you find on U.S. shelves. The Cornia Classico Reserva was big bold dark cherry with balanced acid and a satisfying finish that didn’t over power the fruit.

I love the fact the family uses Sangiovese and the old Italian varietal Canaiolo for the wine – NO Merlot. Being a Classico and a Reserva moves the price up a bit to the mid-$20 range, but it’s worth the price.

Casina Di Cornia has been producing its wines with organically grown grapes for more than a decade.

I would challenge any wine drinker to taste either of these wines, both highly recommended, and not appreciate the fact that no pesticides, no herbicides or other chemicals – and only minimum sulfur – go into the production process.

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Rico Suave in a Bottle … Errrr … Soave

06 Friday Jan 2012

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I became a big fan of Italian Soave on a hot Florida beach. It was very hot, I’m pale, I did what any self-respecting wino would do and that was head for liquor store.

I wanted a light white and found a Soave. I don’t remember the producer, but they had a chiller and chilled it down for me. I sipped it on the beach, by the pool, and reading my summer vacation novel. I loved it. I’ve bought several since and find them super hot weather wines and excellent sippers.

Tonight, I opened to share the 2009 Soave Re Midas with my wine Dudes. We’re doing an Italian night with some big red whoppers, so a nice light Soave seemed like a wonderful start to the evening.

First a little quick wine education. Soave is made from 100 percent Garganega grapes. Check the link if you want to learn more about this elegant little Northern Italy white wine.

The peach and pear on the front of the palate and the smooth mid palate made me easily forgive the disappearing finish. You’ll get a hint of mineral but this 12 percent white wine is a sipper. Don’t make it complicated at $10-$14 a bottle. Buy it, drink it and enjoy it.

Besides all that wine geeky stuff, how often do you get to post that famous Gerardo Mejía video?

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