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Howard W. Hewitt

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Howard W. Hewitt

Tag Archives: Chianti

Chianti Isn’t That Complicated

10 Friday Mar 2017

Posted by Howard in Italy, Uncategorized

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Canaiolo, Chianti, Chianti Classico, Sangiovese

The charm in the old Italian restaurant of a short, fat bottle of wine that’s covered in straw is undeniable for many Americans of a certain age. The wine inside of that iconic Italian imagery, unfortunately, didn’t do the great Chianti wines of today any favors.

grape-sense-logoChianti is the most-recognizable red wine of Italy. It’s a table wine and a fine wine but it has a checkered past. Chianti producers were making swill and taking liberties with their wine blends until the international explosion of wine sales started in the 1990s. It was about that time, along with a younger generation of winemakers, that Tuscany wines took a leap in quality. New Italian government regulations narrowed how the wines were to be made.

Chianti is a wine region largely encompassing Florence down through Siena, Italy. The heart of Chianti is a designated grape-growing region for the best wines, Chianti Classico. The grape of these wines is Sangiovese. Chianti Classico can be 100 percent of the varietal but must be at least 80 percent Sangiovese to be called a Classico. The Italian grapes Canaiolo and Colorino are often used in the blend with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot also used to round out the flavor.

Chianti wines are most associated with red sauces. Or yes, pasta dishes and Chianti wines are the great pairing we know and often enjoy.

Chianti is not a sipping wine its best paired with food. Chianti often has bold acidity and can be quite tart but that’s why it pairs so nicely with red sauces.

Basic Chianti can always be found under $20. Chianti Classico has a bit of a higher price point but is worth the extra dollars. Classico usually has softer fruit and a more pleasing roundness to enjoy with your food.

Here are a couple of recent Chianti wines I’ve enjoyed:

Cecchi 2014 Chianti Classico – Tart cherry flavor and great balance. The Cecchi label is widely available. The wine can be found anywhere from $15 to $22. Cecchi Chianti Classico is a great value entry point for red Italian.

Castello di Albola  2013 Chianti Classico – Another entry level wine that is a bit softer on the palate but lighter on the fruit. The Albola was missing the typical pronounced acidity. I’d recommend this wine to folks trying Chianti for the first time. The wine can be purchased for around $16.

There are lots of Chianti choices in most wine shops, even liquor stores. There are too many for specific recommendations. A safe bet is to go with the Classico and enjoy Italy’s great Sangiovese grape with a good red sauce and pasta.

Buon Appetito!

 

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Tasting Oregon to Tuscany

21 Saturday Jun 2014

Posted by Howard in Food & Travel, Italy, Oregon

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Brunello, Chianti, Oregon, Pinot Noir, Sangiovese, Tuscany, Willamette Valley

SIENA, ITALY – From the lush green countryside of Oregon’s Willamette Valley to the majesty and golden valleys of Tuscany, a common refrain connects wine lovers. There’s nothing better than good food and good wine.

Grape Sense LogoGrape Sense’s first private wine tour, a five-day exploration of Oregon, was followed by a 10-day excursion in Italy’s Siena, Florence, and Rome. The first trip was private and wine/food focused while the current trip is about education and paying-job related. But in Italy there is no escaping the wine and food. And, who would want to do that any way?

In Italy the gracious ristorante and trattoria owners offer smiles, warmth, and endless platters of great food. A mid-week drive through the heart of Tuscany was time for a short lesson on Italian wine. The travel group of 20 seems to enjoy wine but wanted to understand Tuscany for its wine as well as its art and history. The college professor leading the tour handed me the touring coach microphone for a quick lesson.

It occurred to me as we resumed the ride, it’s a lesson that needs repeated.

The not-so-difficult hurdle to understanding Italian, for that matter French, wine is to understand geography. The Old World wine countries identifiy wines by region and not grape. If you’re having steak and want a nice big California Cabernet, you head to the wine shop and buy a Cabernet. But in Italy you might buy a Super Tuscan or Brunello – neither of those wines are a grape. But each are made from Sangiovese – the grape most identified with Europe’s boot.

I shot this vineyard photo about 10 mi. from Montalcino

I shot this vineyard photo about 10 mi. from Montalcino

Sangiovese dominates Tuscany and makes the Chianti, Chianti Classico, and Brunello wines. Sangiovese is usually blended with Cabernet, and sometimes a bit of Merlot or even Syrah, in the Super Tuscan wines.

In Italy’s Trattorias (think small restaurant) to the nice ristorantes the Rosso flows freely from the jug or pitcher. A Rosso is essentially a table wine and almost always Sangiovese. It’s not fair to over generalize Sangiovese as bottom of the barrel wine production, but who ever said we’d be fair.

The Rosso wines are pleasant enough and usually lighter than a Chianti with less acidity and less of the full dark cherry flavor of most Chianti. The quality varies greatly but it’s satisfying enough for the average tourist palate.

Our travel group enjoyed an unique picnic in Montalcino, a hilltop town in the very heart of Brunello – Sangiovese’s shining-moment wine.

We had a huge spread of crusty bread, salami, and Italy’s wonderful prosciutto and smoked prosciutto. We bought three different Brunello wines and a white to show our friends the difference between Italy’s entry level Rosso and its biggest star.

It was a big hit. Many had come to Italy expecting great wine at each meal and were slightly disappointed they had not found that. But now they’re spoiled and my work is complete!

But on a more serious note, there is nothing better than exploring everything a new wine region – whether it’s a state or country – has to offer. And when the opportunity arises, explore that wine region from its least to its best.

Chianti wines are widely available from the supermarket to wine shops. I always suggest trying the Chianti Classico which offers softer tannins and richer fruit for just a few dollars more. Great Classicos can be found at under $25. Brunello is king of the Tuscan mountains but substantially more expensive, starting at twice the per bottle cost of a good Classico.

We’re off to Florence as this is written and then Rome – more great wild boar sauce, pasta, beef, veal and Sangiovese await.

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White Bordeaux,Chianti Classico from Organic Grapes

31 Tuesday Jan 2012

Posted by Howard in France, Italy

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Casina Di Cornia Chianti Classico, Chateau Laubarit Entre-Deux-Mer, Chianti, organic wine, White Bordeaux

It’s time to get back to some specific wines and I have tasted two since returning from France which are available in the United States and made from organically grown grapes.

Chateau Laubarit 2007 Entre-Deux-Mers – Or, we’re talking white Bordeaux if that makes things a little easier. Forget it’s Bordeaux and you can forget it’s French. This is great white wine.

The white is a blend of  60 percent Sauvignon Blanc, 20 percent Semillon, and 20 percent Muscadelle. It’s a white you could drink alone, as a cocktail or with dinner. I served a guest, who is not a big white drinker, this wine with roasted pork chops and roasted herbed potatoes and he loved it!

This is easy drinking wine with enough complexity to satisfy any wine drinker. The Semillon and Muscadelle give the wine a super soft palate feel. The alcohol content is a low 12 percent. At $16, you won’t find a white that drinks any easier with this much palate pleasing presence.



Julien grabs a bottle for the photo!

Casina Di Cornia 2005 Chianti Classico Reserva – This winery was my very first stop during my recent trip to the Millesime Bio in Montpellier, France. I met  Julien Luginbuhl who just returned to his family wine-making business within the last year.

I love Chianti but find the quality so uneven with dollops of Merlot and uneven acid in many of the wines you find on U.S. shelves. The Cornia Classico Reserva was big bold dark cherry with balanced acid and a satisfying finish that didn’t over power the fruit.

I love the fact the family uses Sangiovese and the old Italian varietal Canaiolo for the wine – NO Merlot. Being a Classico and a Reserva moves the price up a bit to the mid-$20 range, but it’s worth the price.

Casina Di Cornia has been producing its wines with organically grown grapes for more than a decade.

I would challenge any wine drinker to taste either of these wines, both highly recommended, and not appreciate the fact that no pesticides, no herbicides or other chemicals – and only minimum sulfur – go into the production process.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

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