Category Archives: Napa/Sonoma

Watching sausage made educational

23 Tuesday Jan 2018

Posted by in California, Napa/Sonoma, Newspaper Column 2018, Uncategorized

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No one really wants to see the sausage being made. Occasionally, there is reason to see how things come together.

grape-sense-logoGrape Sense is now in its 11th year of publication all around Indiana and viewed via social media coast to coast. People often ask if all ideas have been exhausted. That’s not really a problem. Opportunity sometimes provides ideas and new directions and that has happened lately. The 10 years of wine writing has opened up more connections with marketing firms directly to wineries and winemakers.

Numerous opportunities have popped up recently to interview winemakers in California, Oregon and even Italy. Reading winemakers thoughts about their approach to production and their views of the industry is really educational. A few weeks ago we featured Ravenswood’s Gary Sitton, who has replaced the legendary Joel Peterson. Today’s column features more specifics. We’ll feature more such features in Grape Sense throughout 2018.

Ravenswood is one of the leading Zinfandel producers in the country. Historically, Peterson’s efforts have not only propelled the winery but the varietal. Entry-level Ravenswood is widely available in Indiana. Select vineyard designate wines can be found at better wine shops.

Gary Stitton

Ravenswood’s’ Gary Sitton

Sitton began our conversation talking about Ravenswood’s approach to Sonoma County Zinfandels.

“We pick the grapes just ripe, not over-ripe and allowing for the grapes’ natural acidity to bring freshness in young wines, but also the ability to age over time,” Sitton said. “Our winemaking techniques of really focusing on the vineyard enables us to create Sonoma Zinfandels as it is our home, as well as produce Zins from Lodi, Napa and Mendocino Counties, all of which are full of personality and can be traced across vintages.”

Sitton also appreciates getting into the tasting room to see how his wines are being received. “I try to make it into the tasting room when I can, to get some one-on-one time with our visitors,” he said. “I like to get a personal take and get a pulse to how they feel about our wines. I think it’s important to have firsthand insight from the people supporting us the most. More so, I think it is important to have a face behind Ravenswood, in the tradition of our Founding Raven (Peterson), as it shares the true human story of our Sonoma winery’s home.”

The entry-level wines, usually under $20, are approachable and give wine fans a good introduction to California Zinfandel. Certainly the vineyard designates, in the $39-$60 category, present richer and smoother Zins for a more refined taste.

“With Ravenswood County Series, Single Vineyard Designates, as well as our Vintners Blend wines, we believe we can continue to support wide national distribution, while providing options at different price points,” Sitton said.

And if you travel to Sonoma, Ravenswood is a great stop just outside the town of Sonoma.

‘Godfather of Zin’ tough act to follow

08 Friday Dec 2017

Posted by in California, Napa/Sonoma, Newspaper Column 2017, Uncategorized

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Many a young man or woman has stepped into their father or mother’s shoes to continue a family business. Many a young business person has faced the challenge of stepping into a legendary business leader’s shoes to run a thriving company. Gary Sitton is in the process of becoming a more prominent player at Ravenswood Winery in Sonoma.

grape-sense-logoRavenswood is the iconic Zinfandel producer just on the outskirts of Sonoma, the city. Joel Peterson is a legendary winemaker in California and remains active at the winery. Any discussion of California Zin features Peterson prominently.

“I don’t consider myself to be Joel’s replacement. He is the Godfather of Zin and he is truly one of kind,” Sitton told Grape Sense. “Besides, he is still actively involved with Ravenswood today. He is a mentor and friend, and my goal is to continue to build upon his great winemaking legacy, showcasing California’s Heritage variety, Zinfandel.”

Gary Sitton in Barrel room 2

Sitton in Ravenswood barrel room.

Sitton credits Peterson for teaching him the nuance of making great Zin. “Joel taught me a Burgundian approach to winemaking. His use of indigenous yeast from each vineyard, in small open top fermenters was key to best expressing the terroir of each site. While on hiatus, I realized how special Ravenswood is and how the vineyards we work with make our wines so special. Some of these vineyards were planted
in the 1880s and survived Prohibition.”

Most of Sitton’s career is tied to Ravenswood as an assistant winemaker 2001-2006 and then as winemaker for a year in 2006. That ‘sabbatical’ occurred during 2008-2010 at Blackstone Winery then a five-year stint as Director of Winemaking at Clos Du Bois Wines. Sitton returned to Ravenswood in 2015 to assume the title of Director of Winemaking. Peterson remains active working with grape growers and
often working as a Zin ambassador to wine drinkers across the country.

Sitton was heavily influenced by Peterson by tasting his wines. “I had an epiphany while tasting site-specific wines with Joel, from the same grape, same winemaker, same winemaking program, but from different vineyard sites, and each wine was so different from the next,” Sitton said.

“As a result, I believe in Joel’s vision for what wine should be: that it is about place, about history and for Ravenswood, that it is deeply about Sonoma itself. It is an honor and a privilege to be back home continuing Joel’s 41-year legacy of expressive, high quality wines from some of the greatest vineyards in the greatest grape-growing areas in Sonoma and Napa.”

Ravenswood is widely distributed and offers an entry-level Zin found in many groceries, liquor stores, and better wine shops. Those better wine shops also carry some of the vineyard designate wines Sitton described above. Ravenswood Old Vine Zin, Sonoma, can be found across the Midwest, usually under $20.

When asked for wine recommendations, in general, I always tell people to go with a name you know until you learn the wines. If you don’t know Ravenswood – you should.

Vineyard workers’ thinning ranks

01 Sunday Oct 2017

Posted by in Napa/Sonoma, Newspaper Column 2017, Oregon, Wine Education/News/Updates

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Earlier this year Grape Sense featured a look at the potential of a labor crisis in Napa/Sonoma during this fall harvest season. The potential has become a reality for many in the nation’s premier wine region.

grape-sense-logoFor the past several years farm labor was paid $15 an hour. Napa has built dormitory type buildings over the recent past for housing as well. This year wages have jumped closer to an average of $18 an hour with some stories that big name wineries are paying more, much more. One unsubstantiated report had a $300-bottle of wine producer paying $45. Top pickers in Sonoma have been commanding up to $30 an hour the past couple of years.

The labor shortage covers a lot of issues. Federal immigration enforcement increased under the Obama administration. Additionally, as the largely Hispanic workforces ages their children are going to college and finding less physically stressful jobs. Sonoma County Winegrowers have more than 5,000 full time workers but hire an additional 2,600 seasonal workers for harvest. So it’s not a small problem.

 

HARVEST

Harvesting at Indiana’s Hubers a couple of years ago.

There are lots of anecdotes about husband and wife picking up their kids and moving to Napa. But after a few harvests, the married team learns they can work various positions in the thriving hospitality industry for more money and no back-breaking, long days of labor.

 

When harvest is complete, it will be interesting to see if there is actual fruit that got left on the vine because of worker shortages.

I’ve written several times lately about things going on in Oregon. The Willamette  Valley continues to be one of the more interesting regions to follow. The area’s Pinot Noir is now considered world class and is a hot commodity.

Family ownership of Silver Oak Vineyards, known for their outstanding Napa Cab, just recently completed purchase of Dick Erath’s last vineyard near Archery Summit and Domaine Serene – pretty fancy company. Erath, now in his 80s, was one of the valley’s pioneers. He long ago sold his ground-breaking winery to St. Michelle of Washington State.

The new money is being found from great Oregon Pinot Noir. It won’t be surprising to see more Napa names turn up there.

Speaking of Oregon, the vintners continue to kick up production. Sales grew by 12 percent last year from acreage of more than 30,000. In 2016 alone, 23 new wineries opened across the state. Cabernet grapes are the nation’s most expensive but Oregon Pinot grapes from top name vineyards can command more than $5,000 a ton. A ton of grapes will make about 60 cases of wine. There, you now can do some math.

Could Southern Ind. be next Napa?

19 Sunday Mar 2017

Posted by in Indiana, Napa/Sonoma, Newspaper Column 2017, Uncategorized

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No, Southern Indiana will not, and cannot, be the next Napa Valley. Geez!

After more than 200 Grape Sense columns over eight years, it’s time for a rant. Get a glass of something bold like a California Zin, a Central Coast Syrah, or Ted Huber’s Bordeaux-style blend called Heritage.

grape-sense-logoIn the last few months a couple of newspaper pieces on “Indiana wine” have surfaced in Midwestern media. The most recent Indiana wine story appeared Feb. 28 in the Louisville Courier-Journal. That story featured the headline I’m mocking above. As a 20-plus year newspaper veteran and 8-year wine writer, it’s important to note that almost all newspaper headlines are written by copy editors and certainly not writers or reporters.

The headline, and unfortunately the story, does little for the Indiana wine industry. And even worse, does little to inform readers about Southern Indiana wine. There is nothing wrong with a puff piece when you get little media attention. But in theory the writer got paid for the story and the newspaper took it as a credible feature.

The story in question begins like this:

“When most people talk about great wine, they often refer to vino from Napa Valley, France or Italy. But locals will tell you that some of the best wines come from the rolling hills of Southern Indiana.”

Who are those locals who say some of the ‘best wines’ come from the rolling hills of Southern Indiana? It’s certainly not a single winemaker or consumer in Southern Indiana because none are quoted in the story.

Who is the mystery source so enamored with Indiana wine?

There is an argument to be made, by an old newspaper curmudgeon perhaps, that the headline was condescending.

The story’s writer did quote one winery’s marketing representative. There was a single quote from Purdue’s Bruce Bordelon about Indiana’s growing season. That’s a good and authoritative source. The author also quoted the Wine and Grape Team’s new state marketing spokesperson, a very recent college grad, who added that Indiana is a very nice place.

The story, which you can read for yourself here, doesn’t say anything quantitatively or qualitatively about Indiana wine.

The truth is there are some very good wines being made in Indiana and particularly down south. Will they ever be as good as Napa or Bordeaux? Wine is about the region where it’s grown. Wine regions can be compared for contrast or similarities but wearing the ‘next best thing’ title doesn’t help anyone making fermented Hoosier grape juice.

Indiana winemakers, owners, and marketing folks must be smarter than to fall all over any reporter for any piece of public relations. Those people need to offer up winemakers and winery owners for interviews. They need to do everything to get the writer or PR person to taste the wines and educate them what constitutes good Indiana wine. Well-informed wine writing can boost the Indiana wine industry.

The puff pieces are better than nothing but when an opportunity arises to tell Indiana’s story, Indiana wineries must do better.

Napa be damned! Give me a glass of Vignoles or Chambourcin, please!

Deano Living the Winemaking Dream

07 Saturday May 2016

Posted by in California, Indiana, Napa/Sonoma, Newspaper Column 2016

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Wilson, Dean

Dean “Deano” Wilson at a recent tasting at Mass Ave. Wine, Indy

Any wine geek living around Indianapolis the past 15 years knows Dean “Deano” Wilson. Deano had a couple of retail wine operations, a restaurant, and served as one of Indy’s “bon vivants” when it came to all matters wine.

His robust sense of humor and passion turned a lot of people into oenophiles. His story continues today in California pursuing a winemaking dream. Deano, wife Vicki and kids, picked up and moved to wine country nearly three years ago.

Wilson had industry connections and started working for winemaking icon Joel Peterson at Ravenswood.

Grape Sense LogoAfter two more stops, he started his own label – “Scribble, Scribble” – and debuted his whites last year and reds recently in hometown Indianapolis.

Wilson poured his Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, and Red Blend during several April stops. The wines were full bodied, a tad lighter in alcohol than normally expected and had a palate-friendly silkiness. The wines are distributed in Indiana, Tennessee and California.

Scribble, Scribble wine got its name from Wilson’s young son. The boy came home from school with some marks on a paper and explained it was Scribble, Scribble wines. Wilson added the phrase, ‘every scribble tells a story.” Indeed the wines are named for his children and mother.

Wilson feels lucky, with a bit of karma, since his initial departure to the west coast. “I’m from Indy and the first place I looked to make wine was Mare Island near Vallejo. Mare Island is an old naval base. The USS Indianapolis took out its last time from there. I’m from Indianapolis so it just felt right.”

Deano wants to permanently locate his family near that area at the heart of California wine country. To finish living the dream, he expects to grow his winery from the 700 cases of the latest vintage to 5,000 cases by 2020.

“Vicki is a chemistry teacher,” he said. “Our dream is by 2020 she gets to retire. Then she goes work a crush with a winery like Ravenswood and learns the wine analysis part of making wine. She comes back and we start our winery in the hills of Cloverdale in northern Sonoma County.”

His current and future location is a perfect spot for buying grapes. Deano bought Muscat Canelli white grapes from Lake County, north of Napa, and his Zin and Petite Sirah from Lodi west of San Francisco.

The location would give him the opportunity to buy grapes an easy distance away from Sonoma, Napa, Lake county and Lodi. The location would even make sourcing grapes from the California Central Coast a possibility.

A couple of steps in the winemaking process helped him achieve a wine style pleasing to customers wanting full flavor, a bit lighter alcohol, and a silky mouthfeel. First he picks grapes earlier than many to get more acidity. He uses oak aging to create balance and mouth feel. He co-ferments his Zin and Petite Sirah for his red blend. Fermenting the wines together “melds flavors and gives you deeper flavors,” Wilson explained.

This Indy wine icon hasn’t forgotten his Hoosier roots. He’s just living the dream from the coast. “If this is work, clock me in,” he cackled. “I don’t feel like I’m working and I don’t ever want to clock out.”

Rich Red, Smooth White for Weekend

04 Sunday Aug 2013

Posted by in Napa/Sonoma, South America

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I enjoyed two interesting wines with guests Saturday that often scare me off. Most Califorinia (not all) white blends are often too rich, and a tad to softn (sometimes sweet) for my palate. The other was a Chilean Carmenere. I’ve certainly tasted many Carmenere wines but most were a little rough around the edges.

These two wines may change my mind about pre-conceived notions!

carmenereCarmen 2010 Gran Reserva Carmenere – Delicious, rich raspberry and a smooth-mouth feel start to finish is what I’ve been looking for in Carmenere. Carmen delivers!

For my palate, it was pretty juicy wine but also dry and earthy. Good minerality and tannins. It definitely had a pepper finish that made it work well with a char-grilled ribeye. Too many Chilean wines have that ‘green taste” … green peppers if you will, and I’m not a fan.

Carmen 2010 Gran Reserva Carmenere, around $15 – trade sample, Highly Recommended.

FRN_Equilibrium_medFranciscan 2012 Equilibrium – This white wine comes from a great Napa producer and really delivers a delightful and well-balanced glass of wine.

Many of the California white blends I’ve had lately seemed out of what with 3-5-7 white grapes. Franciscan sticks with primarily Sauv Blanc, then throws in a little Chardonnay and Muscat to soften and round the rough spots. It works!

There is easy-to-spot white peach and great balance. This would be a wonderful match for those who enjoy spicy foods. I actually served it with a peach and mozzarella summer salad and it was spectacular.

Franciscan 2012 Equilibrium, SRP $23, trade sample, Highly Recommended.

Three Good Whites & a Red Blend

03 Saturday Aug 2013

Posted by in Napa/Sonoma, Oregon, Spain

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I’ve wore out the ‘catching up” language on wine reviews but with these four, I’m caught up! Seriously! Until tonight, or maybe this afternoon!

It’s hard to measure the value of posting reviews and what one guy thinks of a bottle of wine but I do get occasional feedback from folks trying to find a specific bottle I’ve reviewed. More often, I talk about the varietal – as I will with one of these on this post – and someone will drop me a line wanting to know where to find it.

So reviews are worth the time if you’re going to blog about wine. But it’s just one opinion. If you scan any number of blogs you will find writers who alternately hate/love the same bottle. Hopefully, regular readers learn the writers’ palate – mine or anyone else’s – and that serves as a guide.

verdejoOro de Castilla 2011 Verdejo – Spanish Verdejo isn’t all that difficult to find but you’ll have to go to a wine shop. Unlikely you’re going to find it in any grocery unless you’re in a high-end establishment.

The good news is that its almost always a very affordable alternative to Sauvignon Blanc or wines with some crisp acidity that really hit the spot in the summer months.

This had a great bouquet with a lovely crisp freshness. Certainly a grapefruit flavor with some nice floral components. I drink the Verdejo in the summer for the crisp acidity and refreshing mouth feel. Though it has acid and minerality, it won’t be as powerful as a NZ or California Sauv Blanc.

Oro de Castilla 2011 Verdejo, $10-$15 in most shops, Recommended.

12PinotGris_FrontPonzi 2012 Pinot Gris – Gris is probably my favorite summer white wine for many of the same reasons I like Verdejo.

Ponzi is a big name in Oregon’s Willamette Valley but despite several trips out there I had never tried their wines. I found the Gris at a rock bottom $11.99 and grabbed one in an Indy wine shop. The winery was also one of the valley’s Pinot Gris pioneers.

It’s hard to put a label on this one but I’d call it good, really good actually but not great. I found green apple tartness and maybe something like white peach. By the way, I usually roll my eyes when I type sentences like the previous. Because if you taste the wine and find watermelon and rhubarb then it’s watermelon and rhubarb. But I digress!

This is nice wine for the price point. There are better and worse Oregon Pinot Gris on the market. It has nice aromas and I’d buy it again.

Ponzi 2012 Pinot Gris, $11.99 but closer to $17 in most markets, Recommended.

sancerreDomaine Jean-Paul Picard 2011 Sancerre – Sancerre is a region of France’s Loire Valley which produces Sauvignon Blanc – and great ones at that.

The difference between Sancerre and, say, New Zealand or California is a roundness and deft touch that wine lovers gravitate to more than the hammer and brick approach.

A delightfully round and soft mouthfeel is generally the characteristic I would use to describe the difference with Sancerre. This wine has a fresh-cut grass and mineral appeal I like. It’s dry it’s onl 12.5 percent alcohol.

Picard’s vines of this tiny area of Sancerre are nearly 30 years old. This is great wine.

Domaine Jean-Paul Picard 2011 Sanceree, $19.99-$22.99, Highly Recommended.

ElementsArtessa 2009 Elements – Big Napa Valley taste in a pretty darn good blend. I like the mix of 71 percent Cabernet, 16 percent Merlot, 5 percent Cab Franc, 5 percent Malbec, and 3 percent Petit Verdot. What did they miss?

For me, 2013 has been the year of really nice California Meritage, blends, kitchen-sink wines, whatever you want to call them – I like them.

The great thing about these wonderful blends, coming largely from California and Washington State, is they are great values.

This wine tastes big and it tastes expensive. But SRP from the winery is only $32 and you’ll often find it lower. As a matter of fact, I bought this wine off of one of the flash, discount internet sites for $17.99 and at that price its larceny!

This is typical California Meritage with big dark fruit, nice tannins, an herbal or spice base, and enough fruit to keep it all in balance.

Artessa 2009 Elements Meritage, SRP $32, Highly Recommended.

Classic Zin, Good Rose, Killer Find!

20 Saturday Apr 2013

Posted by in California, France, Italy, Napa/Sonoma

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There are good wines, great wines and wines which just bring you joy. These reviews offer a good mixture of all.

SEbastianiSebastiani Vineyards 2009 Zinfandel – This was really great, classic Sonoma County Zinfandel from Sebastiani – a family with roots in California dating back to the late 1800s.

The wine had wonderful balance, power, really dark fruit, pepper, and the dusty quality that really sets some wines apart as they age gracefully.

It’s what most wine geeks would call really “ripe fruit” but isn’t that what entices some wine buyers” I think so.

This wine is a great bargain that tops many at a higher price point. CellarTracker users gave it 89 points and I find that rating spot on.

I got this bottle in a blind “mystery’ half case sale through Invino wines online site.  What a pleasant surprise considering I got it for $10!

Sebastiani Vineyards 2009 Zinfandel, $14-$16, Highly Recommended.

cinsaultLes Jamelles 2011 Cinsault Rose’ – With summer approaching, I’m looking for great dry Rosé. My search led me to pick up this bottle last weekend after attending a large tasting of nearly 50 different wines. (No, I didn’t taste them all!)

Cinsault is a red wine grape and mostly used in blends. It’s also a popular component of many Rosé wines. It’s widely planted in Southern France’s Languedoc region. The 100-percent Cinsault was unusual and the price was cheap so I grabbed a bottle.

It’s a very light wine on the palate, making it perfect for hot summer weather. Frankly, I was looking for a bit more flavor. It also had a tiny bit of a ‘candied” mouth feel. I would by no means call it sweet though. I liked the flavors and just wish it was more pronounced.

But at this price, it’s a great dry Rosé for those exploring these delightful summer wines.

Les Jamelles 2011 Cinsault Rose’, $11.99, Cork & Cracker, Indianapolis; Recommended

RignanaInvino Online Wine Surprise! – I buy a lot of wine from online flash sites. These are sites which buy directly from wineries at a reduced rate. But the good sites, and there a plenty of sites, are sourcing interesting wines you may never find off a shelf.

That’s what happened when I scanned an Invino Wine sale Saturday morning. Invino was offereing Fattoria di Rignana Chianti Classico. I had visited Fattoria di Rignana on New Year’s Eve 2009.

Rignana-Chianti-Classico-2007-LabelIt was a cold gray day but I remember the Rignana was simply the best Chianti Classico I had ever tasted. I ordered three bottles off the site. It normally retails for $30 but I got it for $17,99 a bottle.

If you’d like an invitation to Invino, just drop me a note or leave a comment at the bottom of the blog. You need to include an email address. I’ve written about many of these flash internet sites. These web sales points are offering some of the best deals you’ll find in wine.

Kunde Red Backs Up Name’s History

15 Friday Feb 2013

Posted by in California, Napa/Sonoma

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It’s almost always a safe bet that when you’re dealing with a company that has been in business for more than 100 years that they probably know what they’re doing.

Kunde Red Blend Lives Up to History

Kunde wines sort of falls into the category of something I’ve often seen on wineshop shelves but never previously bought. I didn’t have a positive or negative impression – just didn’t know much about Kunde wines.

A friend bought my a mixed case of goodies from Napa Sonoma last fall and it included a Kunde 2007 Red Dirt Red blend. I recently opened it and it blew me away. This is darn fine wine for around the $30 price point.

It’s a great American-grown, Italian blend of Barbera, Petite Sirah, Syrah, Zinfandel, and Sangiovese. It has really nice intense red fruit, spice, nicely balanced and a lasting smooth finish!

Meat off the grill or red sauce-based dishes would rock with this wine. I had a nice round tip roast, medium-rare, that made a perfect companion. I’m anxious to try more Kunde wines.

Kunde 2007 Red Dirt Red, $28, Highly Recommended.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Great Wines – Big Price/Flavor

02 Saturday Feb 2013

Posted by in France, Italy, Napa/Sonoma

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Here are some quicky reviews on some really great red wines – not good, but really great. The price point is a tad higher than the value wines I write about in the newspaper column but, I’d argue, the wines are better than the price point listed!

Philippe Cambie La Calendal 2007 Cotes du Rhone – There is good and then there is crazy good. If you like Rhone wines, no .. make that … if you like red wine, you are going to love this incredible and unique French blend.

I bought this wine because I had heard Philippe Cambie referrer to in such glowing terms in the wine media over and over and over. Well, my colleagues are right on this one. This is a unique Rhone wine because of the blend. It’s 80 percent Mourvedre and 20 percent Grenache.

This was smooth and rich like many Rhone wines but it had much more of a mid-palate and secondary notes than most Rhone bottles. It has dark and earthy qualities beyond the usual $15 entry. For me, credit the Mouvredre – probably my favorite grape many haven’t even heard about! Robert Parker gave this wine 92 points – quite high for a Parker rating of Rhone.

The Cambie wine is easily one of the best Cotes du Rhones I’ve ever tasted.

Philippe Cambie La Calendal 2007 Cotes du Rhone, $23-$27, Very Highly Recommended. 

Girard 2009 Artistry – This big red California blend is awesome wine. It’s a rich blend of 56 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 15 percent Cab Franc, 11 percent Petite Verdot, 10 percent Merlot, and 8 percent Malbec. It’s obviously a Bordeaux style blend that delivers serious bang for the buck. I bought this on an online wine site for $23-$24 but it normally sells at $45.

Frankly, I usually don’t find these wines that good at $45 but this one is an exception. It’s got bright flavors like a cherry or spice. It has a long-lasting finish and beautiful mouth feel. It’s big alcohol at 15 percent without the burn on the finish.

The wine publications, Wine Spectator and Enthusiast, consistently like this wine with ratings of 89-92 through the 1008 vintage.

If you aren’t drinking California blends you are missing out on a lot of great red wines.

Girard 2009 Artistry, $44.99, Highly Recommended

Morlanda Crianza 2007 Priorat – This is great dry Spanish wine. At $40 it may scare some people off, but frankly it drinks above even that price point.

This dry beauty has currents, coffee, and dirt on the palate. This is dry and wonderful red wine. It’s not a sipper but works well with food. I loved this wine with some mildly-spiced, roasted pork.

How do you coax a vineyard into making great wine? You drop fruit and take a low yield. The winery gets just over one ton an acre from the vineyards for this wine. And if you want another good sign, there are only 3,000 cases of the wine produced.

Spectator, Enthusiast and Advocate all give the 2007 a rating of 90 points.

Morlanda Crianza 2007 Priorat, SRP $40, Trade Sample, Highly Recommended.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com