Tag Archives: Languedoc

Hard to believe: 10 years of Grape Sense

04 Wednesday Oct 2017

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We all know time goes fast from time we’re aware of the calendar on the wall until we’re discussing retirement and beyond. Who could have guessed this little wine column would enjoy the success it has when it began in October 2007?

grape-sense-logoFrom five newspapers, mostly close to home base Crawfordsville, to more than 20 newspapers and websites across the state. At one point the column’s reach, based on print circulation numbers reached more than 300,000 Hoosier, Michigan, and Illinois homes. I only had one small paper in each of the two neighboring states but they’re worth including.

Today the number reached is harder to determine because several newspaper companies run the column as exclusive to their website instead of print. That’s okay because it still expands reach. If I had to figure out the number of homes I’d safely guess 200,000-250,000 homes.

That was always the goal to reach as many people as possible with some wine education. Arguably, the column has done that. It has also afforded me numerous opportunities to learn more about wine. The most impactful result was several press trips I participated in, and reported on here, to some of the great wine regions of the world. In 2010, I visited Paso Robles and it was back to California in January 2011 to Mendocino.

DrinkingWDon

Talking Oregon Pinot with Don Lange

But the big year for me was 2012. I took a press trip to Montpelier, France, in the Languedoc wine region for the world’s biggest organic wine trade show. That summer was another trip to the beautiful city of Bordeaux. In the fall, it was a quick trip to Chablis and its delicious whites in northern-most Burgundy.

 

I have led a couple of wine tourism trips in that time. The first trip to Oregon, which I’m thinking of repeating in 2018, really had an impact on my guests. I took four couples to Burgundy, France, in 2016 and it was my first as well. It takes a lot of time to comprehend the complexities of great Burgundy so I’m sure I’ll be going back.

The important thing about all those trips is I always tried to take you along here and on my blog.

GroupAlexana

2014 travel group having fun tasting the wines of Alexana Winery in a beautiful outdoor setting.

More important than what Grapes Sense has done for the author is what I hope it has done for you. The most consistent message through 231 500-700 word columns has been to try new things, new grapes, and new price points. Visit winemakers and ask lots of questions about what they do. And always remember you learn more about wine in the vineyard than the winery.

For the future, I’m not sure. I still enjoy writing the column and seldom have much trouble with finding topics. Perhaps a bit more focus on food in coming months and a narrower look at some wines and wineries.

Two Really Great Red Wines

22 Friday Nov 2013

Posted by in California, France, Paso Robles & Mendocino

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It’s a long way from Paso Robles to Southern France but catching up with wine reviews takes us from the west coast to the languedoc. It’s worth the trip no matter which direction you travel.

derby-wine-estates-implico-bordeaux-blend-paso-robles-usa-10505904Derby Wine Estates 2007 Implico – This is a wonderful Paso Robles blend of 61 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 18 percent Merlot, 15 percent Cabernet Franc and 6 percent Petit Verdot.

Small production, oak aged, and a beautiful representation of California’s fastest growing wine region is just a good start. I really liked this wine.

It was big, rich, and everything I want from California wine. It had red fruit and the leather/tobacco components of delightful big red wine. There is a delightfuly hint of vanilla from the oak aging. It had muscle without being overpowering.

This wine would work with beef or hearty winter stews.

Derbu 2007 Implico – This vintage is largely sold out. The last few vintages are sold out. The 2010 is available at $32. I’d call it a bargain at the price. Highly Recommended!

domaine-gilles-troullier-l-imprevue-vin-de-pays-des-cotes-catalanes-france-10441249 - CopyDomaine Gilles Troulilier 2006 – This is a Grenache-based wine that has the earthiness to make you think you’re drinking a blend with Carignan. That’s for the real Languedoc geeks out there. I’ll admit, I thought I was drinking the ancient, Southern France Carignan but what I learned about the wine is it is Grenache.

If you like earthy and big you’ll just love this wine. The 2006 is quite drinkable but would clearly age well.

Domaine Gilles 2006 Troulilier – I bought this on a flash site but can retail for up to $40. It’s a great, great representation of southern France wines. Highly Recommended.

Off to Languedoc, Paris Visit

07 Friday Jun 2013

Posted by in France

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I’ll make my fourth visit to France in the past 18 months over the next week with the probably highlight a five-day visit to Paris.

In a bit of an oddity, I visited France three times last year and flew through the enormous Charles de Gaulle airport but never visited the City of Lights.

Place de Comedie, the city center of Montpellier

Place de Comedie, the city center of Montpellier

I’ll be helping lead an alumni tour group with a focus on wine in the Languedoc, then a History Professor at the small college where I work will lead our time in Paris.

Our home base in the Langeudoc will be its capital, Montpellier. We are scheduled to visit six wineries in three days. We’re scheduled to make stops at Domaine Virgile Joly, Chateau de Flaugerues, lunch at Chateau le Bouis (with views of the Mediterranean), taste at Gerard Bertrand’s Chateau L’Hospitalet, taste the Cabernet at Domaine de la Jasse, and make our last stop at O’Vineyards.

We’ll explore the charming Montpellier and spend a half day at the World Heritage site, Carcassonne with its towers and walls.

Off to Paris on hi-speed rail for a dinner cruise on the Seine, visit to Versailles, Monet’s village of Giverney, many of the usual sites, and plenty of time for exploration.

I hope to post here as often as possible and on Facebook and Twitter!

So-So French Rouge, Nice Blanc

25 Monday Feb 2013

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French wine isn’t all $1,000 a bottle. The crazy things that happens with French futures and the high-end Chateau wines from Bordeaux grab the headlines but there are plenty of tasty treats at all price points.

Here is a look at two wines, a red and a wine, which are pretty easy to find and both under $15.

madiranChateau Peyros 2006 Madiran – This southern Bordeaux wine is probably best suited for a red wine drinker who want’s to try an easily affordable Bordeaux. Madiran is the appellation area while the grapes are Cabernet and a grape that will be unfamiliar to some, Tannat.

Tannat is the dominant grape in the Madiran region and also found in Uruguay. There’s also a little Tannat grown in Virginia and California. Indiana’s Jim Butler, at Butler winery near Bloomington, recently told me he is planting some tannat.

Tannat is a grape that produces a tannic wine that is intended for aging. It’s most often blended with Cabernet and the other more traditional Bordeaux grapes.

These are dark wines with big flavor and can be quite rich and wonderful. They can also be too dry, leathery, and off-putting. Any wine with a dose of Tannat probably needs decanting.

The Chateau Peyros is easy to find but definitely needs that decant. I tasted it after pouring through a good aerator but found it lacking much fruit. I searched a few online reviews and found many agreeing with my first impression. Those who let the wine open up certainly liked it more than those of us who opened and poured.

Its a nice wine. It generally gets good marks 90-ish from critics. But on consumer driven wine review sites the wine scores lower. It’s hard to recommend this wine because many are not going to care for it. Some will even find it thin straight from the bottle. If you have the patience to decant a couple of hours or more and like trying the proverbial ‘something different,’ then Chateau Peyros is worth your try.

Chateau Peyros 2006 Madiran, $14, Recommended, with reservations noted.

clapping hands2Chateau La Tour de Beraud 2010 Costieres de Nimes – If you like tart citrus, lovely blance, and crisp acidity – clap your hands!

This is a really delightful Southern France white wine. Generally, classifying wines to the season is geeky-goofiness that just doesn’t matter. I like to live by the rule that if you like it – drink it.

I prefer these crisp whites in the summer but really loved this one in mid February with pasta. The Beraud has an aluring nose that hints of mineral and bright citrus.

beraudThere seems to be a touch of peach and a little satisfying sour/tart characteristic on the finish. The wine is made from Grenache Blanc, Rousanne and Marsanne grapes – the classic Southern French wine grapes. These are great grapes and wine blends to try. And, the Southern Rhone and Languedoc regions are making some wonderful value reds and whites which taste far above their often meager prices.

Costieres de Nimes is southern most Rhone and often associated with the ancient Romans. Romans planted some of the original vineyards in the ancient area.

Chateau La Tour de Beraud 2010 Costieres de Nimes, $9-$11, Recommended!

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Languedoc Tasting Educational for More than Retailers

12 Thursday Apr 2012

Posted by in France, Wine Education/News/Updates

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CHICAGO, IL. – Tasting Languedoc wines on the 33rd floor overlooking Lake Michigan isn’t a bad way to spend a Tuesday afternoon.

Retailers sample Languedoc wines at W. Lakeshore, Chicago

That was just what I did April 3 in downtown Windy City participating in one of three U.S. L’Aventure Languedoc tastings with U.S. distributors of Languedoc wines. The event is geared mostly for retailers and other buyers but it’s educational and interesting to hear what retailers are looking for and what importers, winemakers, and Languedoc leaders think retailers should be looking for when promoting Languedoc wines.

I’m starting to get more invitations of this nature but it’s hard for me to justify taking a day off work, the cost of parking, the drive, hotel, etc. But meeting a good friend for dinner was enough for a little ‘what the heck’ trip to Chicago.

I spent a week in the Languedoc in January learning about organic wines. The wines I tasted were made almost exclusively with traditional methods and presented by 10 different distributors.

I left again convinced of the tremendous quality for value the Languedoc offers winos.

The reds are full bodied and rich, the unusual whites are crisp and often soft on the palate. The Roses, right next door to Provence, are soft but perfect for summer sipping.

I’m not a big sparking fan and left generally unimpressed with the sparklers, but one strike is a pretty good batting average.

What most impressed me, though, was the education session put on by the Benson Marketing Group which promotes Languedoc wines. Account executive David Cohn told me his company likes to include an education component and not just a wine tasting. He’s right. I’m sometimes shocked how little retailers know about a given region or its wines. Now, no retailer can be an expert of all the world’s wine regions but a specialty tasting like this one makes sense when it includes an education component.

Two retailers joined Frederic Jeanjean, President of the Languedoc AOC, to talk not just about the wines and the region, but also how the wines should be promoted or presented to consumers.

Languedoc wines are a great value, most drinking well above that magic $12-$16 range you’ll pay.

Nice view of Lake Michigan, Navy Pier from 33rd floor.

Barbara Glunz, from one of Chicago’s oldest wine shops – the House of Glunz, urged retailers to learn more. “I think people come to us because they want to learn something,” she said. “People love a wine with a story. And if they learn something they’ll want to come back to see what else you know.”

Discussion including pronouncing the French names, the always-controversial topic of French wine labeling was part of the 45-minute session.

“We don’t want to copy the other appelations,” Jeanjean said. “We want to be unique. Even though we were one of the first regions of the world to produce wine with the Romans, we are young. This is our Renaissance period.”

Here are some labels I tasted and thought were standouts:


Chateau des Karantas Languedoc – The Karantas wines from the La Clape region are affordably priced and really nicely-balanced, full-bodied wines. They are distributed by Carroll Distributors in Indiana.

Gerard Bertrand Wines – Bertrand was named European Winery of the Year by Wine Enthusiast and tasting a couple of the wines proved the accolades. I tasted my first-ever PicPoul wine at the Bertrand table and enjoyed the light and soft white.


Les Deux Rives Corbieres – Lex Deux Rives wines were consistently good from the white, rose through the Chateau d’Aussieres Corbieres which was the best red blend I tasted all day. This is another label widely distributed, including Indiana.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Off to Chicago Tuesday for More Languedoc Wines

02 Monday Apr 2012

Posted by in France, Wine Education/News/Updates

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Ever since my January trip to South France’s Languedoc region I’ve become a big fan of the area’s wines.

The January press trip was to the Millesime Bio, an organic wine fair in Montpellier. I learned a ton about organic wines, US and France law on organic wine, and the wonderful wines of Southern France.

So when an invitation came via e-mail a few weeks ago to attend a trade tasting of Langeudoc wines I signed up and jumped at the opportunity. There is a brief basic seminar on the wines of languedoc then an all-afternoon tasting opportunity.

I’ll be using Twitter and Facebook to do a few updates and try to get something posted Tuesday or Wednesday night a little more comprehensive.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

An Italian, Languedoc, and NZ Wine Good Picks

29 Thursday Mar 2012

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This wine review update includes a really nice Italian, dynamite Southern France red, and an affordable, dependable New Zealand Sauv Blanc.

Piancornello 2009 Rosso di Montalcino – This Sangiovese based wine from Tuscany’s Montalcino region delivers for the price point.

I like Sangiovese and enjoy most Italian wines. So many of the cheaper Chianti wines are harsh, unbalanced, and overly acidic. For Italian novice wine fans, the Rosso Montalcino is essentially the table wine of the great Brunello region.

I found the wine smooth with dark cherry, berry,  and earthy characteristics. This is great red wine for pasta. This is also a wine that you can find anywhere from $14.99-$23. Robert Parker gave the Rosso 90 points.

I’d also add for those who have a hard time tracking down particular wines, look for a Rosso di Montalcino. They are affordable and in many ways better than a Chianti at the same price point.

Piancornello 2009 Rosso di Montalcino, $21.99, Recommended.

Paul Mas 2009 Carignan Vieilles Vignes – This is great wine from Southern France. I’m really falling for Languedoc wines and particularly 100 percent Carignan. The grape is a bit of a rascal. It can be fickle for growers and can be quite tanninic and acidic.

The wine has a real terroir-driven taste. You get a mouthful of dirt with this southern French grape. There is really dark fruit like plum and spice like cinnamon. This is dry red wine that  provides wine drinkers something really different.

The alcohol is in check with this wine at 13.5 percent.  The richness of this wine comes from Carignan vines that are more than 50 years old.

If you want to try something different at an affordale price point, look for some 100 percent Carignan from Southern France.

Paul Mas 2009 Carignan, $14.99, Indy’s Cork & Cracker, Highly Recommended


Fire Road 2011 Sauvignon Blanc – This is a really nice Sauv Blanc that consistently delivers for a $12 wine. This is the wine you want for your Salmon or chicken off the grill
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The Sauv Blanc is a little lighter bodied than many and certainly not quite as acidic. There is good acid on the finish but not what many would be looking for in a traditional Sauv Blanc.

Tasting notes I found online talked about flavors of gooseberry, which I can’t deny, but I get typical crisp lemon and grapefruit citrus.

This is a great choice for about any seafood.

Fire Road 2011 Sauvignon Blanc, $11.99 at Cork & Cracker, Recommended. Can be found as low as $9.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Enthusiastic Floridian Rocking Languedoc

23 Friday Mar 2012

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In a long line of unlikely stories, Ryan O’Connell might be near the top of any list. The gregarious 20-something has made waves in Southern France with social media, talk of tourism, and  unabashed enthusiasm.
I met Ryan while attending the 2012 Millesime Bio organic wine fair in Montpellier, France, in January. I met him after discovering his blog and making contact with marketing guru Louise Hurren. Hurren promotes a group of young winemakers called The Outsiders.
A young man in perpetual motion, Ryan O’Connell

O’Connell and his parents are certainly outsiders. O’Connell was a student at Tulane about the time his father was closing down his home construction business.  “I have this crazy dad who after a bottle of wine at dinner says, “one of these days we’re going to sell everything and buy a vineyard.’ I think whatever! Oh, Archie!”

But the senior O’Connell was more serious than his always-smiling son ever imagined. The O’Connell’s, and note the Mrs. Is of French descent, packed up and moved to the Languedoc region in Southern France. The result was O’Vineyards winery.
They were indeed outsiders. “We’ve definitely had our moments,” O’Connell said of being newcomers. “We’re the weird ones in the room. Then we have moments that prove we have been accepted by certain communities here. Some people were awesome early on. Then there are other times you definitely know others aren’t a fan.
“Even if you come from Toulouse, you can feel like you’re from really far away.”
Ryan has worked in exporting and with distributors and restaurants and found it all frustrating. He does work in the vineyard and winery with his father. They do use a consultant in winemaking but continue to take on more of the effort each year.
“Dad does tons of field work and construction on the winery,” O’Connell explained. “Mom does tons of administrative work and feeds us and whatever guests maybe are coming through. I do tons of computer work, traveling, and tasting wines.”
O’Connell sees his biggest challenges as growing social media usage and tourism in the region. “We’re a region with thousands of wineries,” he said. “It’s beautiful here. It’s easy to have a good time visiting two or three wineries. I’m trying to develop as many like-minded people.”
O’Vineyards welcomes tourists and even offers a Bed and Breakfast. Ryan shocked some neighbors when he decided to charge 25 Euro per person for a tour and tasting. But he explains the tour includes two hours with the winemaker and barrel tastings. Traditionally, wineries in the area never charge for a tasting and most wineries require an appointment.

Whether others follow suit remains to be seen but its cause O’Connell intends to pursue. He’s also made real inroads with social media and it all started with his popular blog, “Love That Languedoc.”

Ryan O’Connell gets noticed. And sometimes the notice comes from halfway around the world. He’s currently in California’s Napa Valley learning about the wine business there and Napa’s marketing machine. As one would expect, he’s blogging about the experience as “kid napa.”
Many of the things I’ve written about wine in recent years are about the people. O’Connell makes O’Vineyards a people business, not just wine. He’s bustling bundle of enthusiasm I’d never bet against.

Watch the video below: O’Connell talking about social media and Southern France.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

The Wine World Through a Buyer’s Eyes

26 Thursday Jan 2012

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Importer Paul Chartrand and Perlage GM Ivo Nardi

MONTPELIER, France – Yesterday was the final day of Millesime Bio, the organic wine trade show, here and what a full day!

I spend most of the day with Paul Chartrand, a Maine importer of wines made from organic grapes. Paul, his northeastern distributor “Sam” and I made the rounds tasting plenty of wines and talking to current suppliers and tasting wines Paul may wish to carry in the future.

I was hoping to interview a couple of more people yesterday but I found the experience of tasting with a veteran wine buyer too valuable to pass up.

Marcella and I share a Prosecco toast!

We started our morning with a lengthy session (maybe 30-45 minutes, for this show a long time) with Perlage of Soligo, Italy. Perlage is one of, if not, the leading organic producer in Italy. Perlage is located in Prosecco, Italy’s northeast region opposite Piedmont.

We tasted through several wonderful Prosecco sparkling wines all made from organic grapes. Though not a huge fan of sparkling wines, I’ve always found Prosecco among the most enjoyable. These were outstanding examples.

We chatted with family estate General Manager Ivo Nardi and his sales manager Marcella Callegari. Ivo speaks limited English so we conducted a short interview with Marcella acting as interpreter.

I learned a lot from Paul as he charted wine prices using a spread sheet to add shipping costs, his margin, and what he could sell the wines per case to U.S. distributors. Paul works in a certain price point. He takes the organic wine world seriously having been involved in food and wine issues since his college days.

And, you do get every winemakers full attention as a U.S. wine journalist. But when you have a U.S. wine importer along, that doesn’t hurt either.

I should note for readers close to my home in Indiana, that Perlage is available in Indiana and many surrounding states. Friend Derek Gray of GrayBull Wines is Paul’s Indiana distributor.

The Rest of the Day …

We made many more stops throughout the day and in the afternoon Paul went into “power tasting” mode. We rushed from stand to stand but once Paul arrived at each customer’s table he gave them individual attention and took the time to appreciate their wines.

We tasted outstanding whites from the Loire region, some more Italian, and a large range of Languedoc wines. Paul even took a suggestion from me and visited a producer I liked. We were rushing up until 5 p.m. when it was time to catch our buses back into the city.

Thursday

Today may be the best day for photos and learning more about Languedoc. I’m spending the day at three wineries and talking to the current AIVB president and past president. We’re having lunch in a small village and visiting wineries and wine cellars. Friends, it just doesn’t get any better than that itinerary for a day in Southern France.

I will definitely get something posted tonight, maybe a photo album if nothing more. But it will be early to bed to catch a 5:45 a.m. taxi to the airport and head home.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

First Day of Tasting in France; I liked Italian

24 Tuesday Jan 2012

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MONTPELLIER, FRANCE – I visit arguably the most important wine country in the world and two of the three best wines I tasted today were Italian. What are the odds?

The three-day Millesime Bio opened today with thousands of buyers, importers, more than 100 press people and nearly 600 wineries presenting wine. The 19th annual gather here on the Mediterranean coast has to be seen to be fully appreciated.

Part of my day was taken up by a couple of interviews, technical problems, and getting my laptop somewhat functional. I still managed to stop by 8-10 different winery booths. Picking up printed brochures, taking notes and photos is just one of the ways to remember details.

Julien with a bottle of his Chianti Classico

My first stop was at the table of Casina Di Corina of Tuscany’s Italy region. The winery and family estate is located near the south central city of Siena. I spent a good bit of time with Julien Luginbuhl who just returned to his family wine-making business.

Julien’s father bought the property in 1979 and immediately began organic farming practices in the vineyards. “It was just his way of thinking then and it’s still the same now,” Luginbuhl said. “It’s my way of thinking.”

That wasn’t always the case because Luginbuhl initially decided he would make his name in different forms of agricultures and went off to university. But just this year he returned to the family land is now living in one of the guest houses and working the family winery.

He worries though that the family’s small property won’t be big enough as his older brother and he slowly take over the business. The winery currently produces a modest 2000-3000 cases a year. Julien is thinking the brothers might have to look at buy more hectres for grape production.

With 600 wineries, you need a strategy

The two wines I tasted were his Chianti Classico and Chianti Classico, both from 100 percent Sangiovese. Beautiful cherry fruit and understated acidity made these as good as any $10-$20 Chianti I’ve tasted. No regular wine drinker could pick them out as “organic” or anything else.

And that’s really the point of this gathering. The organic farming practices are very important to these world leaders in the organic grape growing business. But the first thing they have to do with each vintage is make great wine. No one will listen to anything about organics, not to mention buying a bottle, if it doesn’t taste good.

These Chianti wines were great examples of good Italian wines.

Nice Wines from Italy’s Piedmont.

The other stop at an Italian table was with gentleman winemaker Alessandro Uslenghi of Nouva Cappelletta. I’ve tasted more good to great Chardonnay this trip than I ever expected. Cappelletta’s Chard was light but rich in Chardonnay flavor, mild acidity, some nice pear on the nose. I also enjoyed his Cortese, three Barberra wines (one without sulfites) and a wonderful Rose.

Nebbiolo is many wine drinkers favorite grape and certainly one of mine. Monday I tasted my first Nebbiolo Rose’ and it was fabulous. It was my “suprise” pick of the day. It had wonderful structure and acidity and intense fruit on the nose.

Allessandro’s single vineyard Barbera, Minola, was just great wine. I’ve never drank a lot of Barberra but this one could change that habit.

Other stops …

Domaine Virgile Joly – Every region has its up-and-coming star, even if not everyone agrees on who that might be. Virgile Joly s certainly one of those rising stars (if not already established as a leading winemaker) in the Languedoc.

He joined us for inner on Saturdayt night and I tasted through his wines Monday. He has a new Grenache Blanc that’s wonderfully interesting and light white wine. I plan to sit down with Virgile today or tomorrow for an interview.

Domaine des Cedres – This Cotes du Rhone winery has solid Cotes offerings. Frankly, nothing spectacular but very solid representation of the region.

O’Vineyards – Here is a great story I’ll be writing in in more detail in near future. Ryan O’Connell and parents moved from Florida to Southern France in 2004 and opened a winery. Beside the unusual migration, Ryan is setting new standards for social media and exploring ideas of wine tourism that are fresh for the area. His blog “Love That Languedoc” is a big hit.

Best Wine of the Day – But the very best thing I tasted all day was a traditional Languedoc blend from Carle and Courty and wine maker Frederick Carle. His Cuvee Marion (his daughter) was rich, nice acid, great balance, and lingering finish red wine. It’s a blend of 70 percent Syrah, Carignan, and Mouvredre. It won a gold medal at this year’s Millesime Bio competition.

Odd and ends …

I certainly did taste more wines …. and more wineries. Those were some of the highlights. I’m hoping to catch up with importer Paul Chartrand today. Tomorrow he’ll show me around to some of his favorite winery tables.

Also, I do try to post several Twitter updates throughout the afternoon. Just click the Twitter button at right.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com