Category Archives: France

Some Great Memorial Day Choices

27 Monday May 2013

Posted by in Australia/New Zealand, France, Paso Robles & Mendocino

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memorialday3Memorial Day just might be the official/unofficial kickoff to the outdoor grilling season. So let’s stick to that theme for three wine reviews.

Today is a day to pause in appreciation, before we get to the wine nonsense. Many of us have known soldiers who have gone and served in different military conflicts. It’s probably more fair to say all of us have known someone who gave up 2-3-4 years of their lives to assure our freedom. Fortunately, a smaller number know soldiers who never returned.

We should never lose site of the sacrifice so few have made for so many!

That message sometimes get lost in all the outdoor grilling and pool openings. But it’s always important to make note.

Now, on to the wines for any good summer day of grilling.

Ott2011 Les Domaniers Selection Ott – This Cotes de Provence Rose’ is a nice one that isn’t hard to find. It has a light floral nose and a light and well-rounded mouth feel that will delight as you plan the BBQ.

The wine is a blend of 70 percent Grenache, 25 percent Cinsault, and 5 percent Syrah. It checks in at 13.5 percent on the alcohol.

This is a sipper you can pound with joy once chilled. It has good mineral and acidity though some folks will like a bit more. This is a great introduction to good Provence pink wine.

Simply put, it’s a wine you want to drink when the sun is shining!

2011 Les Domaniers Selection Ott, $19-mid $20, Vine & Table, Indy,  Highly Recommended.

120633lChateau Tanunda Grand Barossa 2010 Shiraz – This Australian Shiraz doesn’t clobber the palate like a jar of jam.

The wine had chocolate, smoke and much better balance than many Shiraz wines I’ve tasted. You can taste the complement of nice blackberry to go with the chocolate and dry mouth feel.

It’s not hard to imagine this wine with any beef or even pork you pull off the grill. Any BBQ treatment of beast would go quite nicely with this somewhat understated Aussie wine!

Chateau Tanunda Grand Barossa 2010 Shiraz, $16, Trade Sample, Recommended.

creekJack Creek Cellars 2008 Syrah – Paso Robles comes through with consistently great Syrah as well or better than anyone in the U.S. The wine screams steak, BBQ or even a pork chop with some seasoning.

This is rich and somewhat tannic red wine for the serious wine drinker. I loved the elegance of the ripe fruit. The tannins were balanced nicely against the front of the palate but definitely there to work with a serious steak.

It’s great red wine for those who like big California flavors.

Jack Creek Ceallars 2008 Syrah, current 2010 vintage SRP $46, Highly Recommended.

#Chardonnay Day Reason for Chablis

23 Thursday May 2013

Posted by in France

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“ABC” – Anything But Chardonnay has almost worn out its cleverness for those of us who aren’t fans.

Most people in the U.S. have tasted Chardonnay, wine drinker or not. Chardonnay is the U.S.’s default white wine. Most Chard served in such circumstances is largely California wine with oak or very heavy oak which profoundly colors the taste of this widely planted grape.

Chablis-2010-768x1024 (1)All that oak produces a vanilla, woodsy, or buttery flavor many love and some (like me) can’t stand. But for wine drinkers who like something a little lighter Chablis, and unoaked Chardonnay – from many different countries – is a very nice dinner wine with lots of different dishes.

I had a piece of fresh-frozen salmon I bought from an Alaska distributor defrosting in the fridge when I saw online activity reminding me it’s #Chardonnay Day. I’ve written about the #Day concept before which is essentially a marketing gimmick to bring attention to a particular varietal – or – a reason for wine geeks to get the ruler out!

I opened a bottle of Jean-Pierre Alexandre Ellevin Chablis that was very satisfying. Chablis is the second of four classifications from the northern Burgundy region. There is Petit Chablis, Chablis, Premier Cru, and Grand Cru. Wines at each designation are easy to find in the Midwest but “Chablis” is probably the most widely available and affordable.

The Ellevin estate is just outside the town boundries of Chablis with its 13 hectare of white wine grapes. The family estate has been in the hands of Jean-Pierre since 1975 with brother Alexander joining the business in 2004. I pulled that information directly from their website but I’ve always believed great wine has a great back story.

The wine was delightful – not as minerally characteristic as many – still had the tart and crisp acidity which has characterized Chablis for decades and beyond.

The wine was okay with the salmon, needed a bit more acid or minerality. I would think the wine would absolutely rock with most any chicken or poultry dish!

Jean-Pierre & Alexandre Ellevin 2010 Chablis, $19.95 on some online websites, Recommended.

Dry Rose Captures American Palates

20 Monday May 2013

Posted by in France, Newspaper Column 2013

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Vins de Provence graphic

Vins de Provence graphic

The numbers are staggering. Americans are falling in love with French dry Rosé. Last year imported Rosé went up 28 percent – most of that coming from Provence, France.

Grape Sense Logo“The growth is partly led by the Mediterranean diet,” said Julie Peterson of the Provence Wine Council. “Rosé from Provence is less than 3 milligrams of sugar.  It’s not very sweet, but has fruit flavors. But it’s a dry wine and it’s made with red grapes. So you have that great character of a red wine that is dry with a white wine feel in the mouth.”

But the explosive growth is not new. While most of the wine market grows at single digits in the best years, Provence imports to the U.S. have grown at double-digit rates every year since 2003.

“Provence is the biggest exporter and producer of Rosé in the world and they’ve been making Rosé for 26 centuries – or as long as anyone has been making wine. The largest percent of their production is Rosé. Provence is the gold standard and Americans are discovering that.”

Rose' low resPeterson’s job is to help spread the word. She was in Chicago earlier this year for Provence producers’ first visit to the Windy City. More than 20 Provence winemakers poured their wines for importers, wholesalers, and the wine media.

That salmon-pink wine is not setting on shelves long either.  U.S. retail sales of Rosé wines priced at or above $12 a bottle grew by 28 percent volume and 23 percent on dollars in 2012. That’s a stunning comparison to the 1.8 percent of volume and 4.8 percent in dollars for total U.S. retail table wine sales.

Rosé wine has been a fixture in France for many years. It’s often consumed at lunch, near the ocean and particularly during warm weather. But it’s also a remarkably versatile wine with food.

It’s important to understand, as Peterson noted, that the dry light pink wine is made from red wine grapes. Red wine is given extensive contact with the grape skins to create the color while Rose’ has minimal contact with the skins to get the desired pink hues and lighter flavor.

Provence Rosé is a blend made from some combination of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, Mourvedre, Tibouren, Carignan, or Cabernet Sauvignon.

In Provence, Rosé is king with nearly 88 percent of all production devoted to Rose’ over traditional red and white wines. Provence produces 40 percent of France’s AOC Rosé. The French AOC designation is an assurance of authenticity and quality as established by government regulation.

Simply put for the average wine consumer, dry Rosé is not the pink white Zinfandel from the 1970s. Dry Rosé is a sophisticated wine of strawberry, mineral and acid that’s refreshing all alone or delicious with lighter meals. And most really great Provence is priced less than $10!

Howard’s Provence Picks: Chateau La Tour De Beraud, Chateau Revelette, and two personal favorites, Andieux & Fils and Domaine Ott.

Rant On: As It Should Be …

02 Thursday May 2013

Posted by in France, South America

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In a perfect world we’d all sip Rose on a seashore with fresh seafood. Or perhaps drink big Malbec or Cabernet with charred and aged steaks. And if that’s too snobbish, how about some Sauv Blanc and shrimp? Or, maybe some pizza or a hamburger with a Beaujolais Cru? In a perfect world should wine in a box be a little better? And shouldn’t consumers have a lot more of those nifty little half bottles in their wine stores? Every now and then, wine writers rant! Rant on:

Cousino-Macul Antiguas Reservas 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon – This is pretty darn great value Cab for under $20. The wine is rich with ripe fruit, that green pepper thing you get in Chilean wines, and a hint of currant and vanilla. Maipo Valley is the home to the winery. It’s big soft and so drinkable the bottle might be gone before you ever realize it. (Not that it happened that way with me, noooooo!) photo (4) One of the great things about this wine is it comes from a producer who is joining a considerable South American movement toward sustainable farming practices.

Online, you’ll find rather dismissive reviews that it isn’t this or that. But the Cousino-Macul Cab is one most novice and intermediate wine drinkers is going to enjoy.

Cousino-Macul Antiguas Reservas 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, Around $16, Trade Sample, Highly Recommended

Chateau La Tour De Bessan Margaux 2009 (Half Bottle) – How many saw the rant coming here? C’mon, raise your hands?

If you travel in Europe, particularly in the great wine countries, you will see lots of half bottles in wine shops but even more in outdoor and traditional markets. The half bottle is a perfect way to try something new or different not to mention great for the single person. Two glasses of wine is enough for many of us on most nights. There are arguments against the half bottle, mainly that wine will not age and last as long as the traditional 750 ml bottle. But there are statistics floating around out that that most wine in the U.S. is consumed within days or weeks of purchase.

Most of central Indiana’s better shops carry half bottles but a very limited selection. This Margaux gave me a chance to taste a Cab-Merlot blend from one of the world’s greatest wine regions without breaking the bank. Sure it’s an entry level wine from the region but that’s as far as many wine drinkers may ever get with Bordeaux’s crazy prices. The wine itself was okay. It had a beautiful balance and richness that suggested great French wine making. Blackberry was the overwhelming characteristic that came to mind as I sipped with my charred ribeye.

Chateau La Tour De Bessan Margaux 2009, $12.95 half bottle, Highly Recommended! More half bottles in wine shops – Very Highly Recommended!

ChatRollanDeByRose Chateau Rollan de By 2011 Bordeaux Rose’ – Not a Claret but a Bordeaux Rose’ and a pretty good one. Most Rose’ fans really fall for the light, pink, and delicate Provence Rose – and I’m one of those folks. But I do like something different from time to time and the Bordeaux was a pleasant surprise.

It certainly was bigger on the palate but not sweet as some might fear from the candy-red color. It’s a bigger wine because it is made from Cabernet and Merlot from the Medoc region. It’s different – I like different. There is strawberry and cherry but it’s all kept in check by a nice roundness and mouth feel. It’s worth checking out.

Chateau Rollan de By 2011 Bordeaux Rose’, $13.50, Recommended.

Classic Zin, Good Rose, Killer Find!

20 Saturday Apr 2013

Posted by in California, France, Italy, Napa/Sonoma

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There are good wines, great wines and wines which just bring you joy. These reviews offer a good mixture of all.

SEbastianiSebastiani Vineyards 2009 Zinfandel – This was really great, classic Sonoma County Zinfandel from Sebastiani – a family with roots in California dating back to the late 1800s.

The wine had wonderful balance, power, really dark fruit, pepper, and the dusty quality that really sets some wines apart as they age gracefully.

It’s what most wine geeks would call really “ripe fruit” but isn’t that what entices some wine buyers” I think so.

This wine is a great bargain that tops many at a higher price point. CellarTracker users gave it 89 points and I find that rating spot on.

I got this bottle in a blind “mystery’ half case sale through Invino wines online site.  What a pleasant surprise considering I got it for $10!

Sebastiani Vineyards 2009 Zinfandel, $14-$16, Highly Recommended.

cinsaultLes Jamelles 2011 Cinsault Rose’ – With summer approaching, I’m looking for great dry Rosé. My search led me to pick up this bottle last weekend after attending a large tasting of nearly 50 different wines. (No, I didn’t taste them all!)

Cinsault is a red wine grape and mostly used in blends. It’s also a popular component of many Rosé wines. It’s widely planted in Southern France’s Languedoc region. The 100-percent Cinsault was unusual and the price was cheap so I grabbed a bottle.

It’s a very light wine on the palate, making it perfect for hot summer weather. Frankly, I was looking for a bit more flavor. It also had a tiny bit of a ‘candied” mouth feel. I would by no means call it sweet though. I liked the flavors and just wish it was more pronounced.

But at this price, it’s a great dry Rosé for those exploring these delightful summer wines.

Les Jamelles 2011 Cinsault Rose’, $11.99, Cork & Cracker, Indianapolis; Recommended

RignanaInvino Online Wine Surprise! – I buy a lot of wine from online flash sites. These are sites which buy directly from wineries at a reduced rate. But the good sites, and there a plenty of sites, are sourcing interesting wines you may never find off a shelf.

That’s what happened when I scanned an Invino Wine sale Saturday morning. Invino was offereing Fattoria di Rignana Chianti Classico. I had visited Fattoria di Rignana on New Year’s Eve 2009.

Rignana-Chianti-Classico-2007-LabelIt was a cold gray day but I remember the Rignana was simply the best Chianti Classico I had ever tasted. I ordered three bottles off the site. It normally retails for $30 but I got it for $17,99 a bottle.

If you’d like an invitation to Invino, just drop me a note or leave a comment at the bottom of the blog. You need to include an email address. I’ve written about many of these flash internet sites. These web sales points are offering some of the best deals you’ll find in wine.

A White, Red, & 4-Day Old Wine!

14 Sunday Apr 2013

Posted by in California, France

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Is there anything better than great food and wine pairing?

How about a crisp white with crab cakes and shrimp? Follow that up with Atlantic Salmon and a delightful Burgundy?

Cline 2012 Estate Viognier – Viognier is often too cloying for my palate. Often the wine seems like an FTD bouquet shoved up the nose. (There is a bad analogy!)

ClineBut the Cline – the venerable producer of consistently good California wines at a value price – surprised again. Two weeks ago it was the Cline Pinot Gris that really surprised with its refinement and similarities to Gris from the great Northwest.

The wine had a wonderful richness not always found with traditional French Viognier bottlings. There were hints of honeysuckle and orange. It was a delightful glass of wine.

I had Mexican shrimp and a crab cake prepared as an appetizer for dinner and the wine worked really well with the seafood.

Cline 2012 Estate Viognier, SRP $15, Trade Sample, Highly Recommended

Domaine Albert Morot Beaune Les Airgrots, Beaune, Premier Cru – Great Pinot Noir is about as good as it gets. Admittedly, I’m consumed very little Burgundy as I continue to learn about the region.

MorotThe Morot Premier Cru explains why wine folk go crazy for Burgundy. I actually bought this bottle at Wine Merchant in St. Louis last fall. The shop is known for its Burgundy selections. I’m not shy about admitting what I don’t know. I asked the knowledgable sales person for a good Burgundy, if there was such a thing, at no more than $50.

He gave me a couple of choices and I bought the Morot for about $40. It was marked down from $69.99. And, it was easily the best I’ve ever purchased.

I could only describe it as elegant wine. It has beautiful red raspberry and maybe a hint of strawberry. It was rich and smooth but still the light-mouth feel you’d expect with Pinot Noir. This wine had consistent 90-point ratings with Wine Spectator’s 90 solidifying it’s cred!

One great Burgundy makes me want to explore more – it’s an expensive habit though.

Domaine Albert Morot Beaune Les Airgrots, Beaune, Premier Cru, $40, Very Highly Recommended. Best wine I’ve drank this year!

Savino – Tuesday to Saturday

I followed founder Scott Tavenner’s suggestion of using the new Savino wine preservation system for a Tuesday-to-Saturday test. After the very nice Viognier and outstanding Burgundy, my one glass of Cabernet wasn’t the best nightcap but it was all for science!

savinoThe Cab was pretty close to what I drank on Tuesday night. It’s really just that simple. It was not identical but the wine was still quite drinkable four days after being opened.

This device has a chance to really be a big hit. Because I’m testing this as a trade sample I find my inner and old journalist sensibilities tested because I want to gush.

Savino works well. I’m going to write about it this week for the newspaper column. The Savino goes on sale nationwide this week. (No cut here, but the investors have to be feeling good about this start up project!)

Seguinot-Bordet Chablis a Classic

06 Saturday Apr 2013

Posted by in France

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photo (4)I’ve written a lot about Chablis since visiting in October 2012. Having never been a big Chardonnay fan, I’m now taken by Chablis and its minerally, acidic whites.

Chablis also shines when perfectly paired with food. I prepared a Chicken Lyon recipe Saturday night I found on Food & Wine’s website several months ago. The recipe has a prominent splash of red wine vinegar that just works beautifully.

The recipe requires several steps but is quite simple to make and takes just an hour start to finish. It’s also a flexible dish good for a weeknight dinner or dress it up a bit and serve for guests. The real kicker is most of the ingredients are probably in your kitchen already.

I like doing it in an iron skillet which is perfect for the oven as well. It also adds that wonderful rustic feel to the dish when served from the skillet on the table.

Here is a link to the full recipe and cooking directions.

Bordet

Bordet

I opened a bottle of Domaine Seguinot-Bordet Chablis. The basic Chablis can be found $18-$20 at better wine shops. I had dinner with Jean-Francois Bordet in Chablis and recently had a phone chat that I turned into a newspaper column.

This is great white wine and just perfect with the chicken. It’s try with a bit of tart citrus, great acid and wonderful minerality. It’s exactly what comes to mind with Chablis.

Check out the recipe. It’s become one of my real favorites.

Not Evil but No Taste Either

05 Friday Apr 2013

Posted by in France

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Most would think anyone who consumers as much wine as a wine writer could not be lured in by marketing and the oddity of a $6.99 Burgundy. Right? Well, wrong!

The very thought of $6.99 Burgundy tells any wine drinker there can’t be much going on inside the bottle. Right? Right!

Pinot EvilBurgundy at $6.99 is going to be awful, right? Wrong!

Awful no, more non-existant.

Awful is subjective while non-existent is void of characteristics which could make one label a wine good or bad.

Pinot Evil Pinot Noir made its way to the shores of the US-of-A for Octavin’s boxed wines, many of which are pretty good bargains. This $6.99 bottle enjoyed a really big display in a high-end Indianapolis market that called to me like a siren’s song.

I threw it in the cart. Big Mistake!

Disgusting? No!

Drinkable? Yes! As long as you’re not looking for something that tastes like Pinot. It doesn’t taste like —- well, anything.

Taste? There isn’t any. Nothing there. Not unpleasant, but no flavor. Try bottled water, perhaps? You search and think long enough you might get a weeeee bit of cherry like those flavored waters.

Downside? Don’t buy wines with monkeys on the label!

Pinot Evil Pinot Noir, non-vintage (a clue), $6.99, Not Recommended.

More From Chablis Winemakers

22 Friday Mar 2013

Posted by in France, Newspaper Column 2013

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While the effects of that California jug ‘Chablis’ had its negative impact, Chablis winemakers believe those days are largely behind them now.

Grape Sense LogoThe last Grape Sense column focused on the differences between Chablis and all other Chardonnay. Recently Chablis winemakers Jean-François  Bordet and Christian Moreau visited New York and took the time for a brief phone chat.

“I don’t think that’s still a problem,” Moreau said. “There used to be some confusion, of course, 15, 20 or 30 years ago. But in last six, seven or 10 years, people in the U.S. are more educated. They are more educated about wine because the journalists are talking about Chablis and they are talking about Chablis being made in France.

Moreau

Moreau

“Also when the younger generation sees a price of $18-$20 for Chablis, or higher for Grand Cru, they know it doesn’t come from California.  Winemakers have come to the U.S. and not just the importers. We’ve had quite a few French delegations coming and doing tastings. People are really starting to know what Chablis is and where it comes from.”

But the effort to promote Chablis isn’t necessarily a new one. Moreau said his father visited the U.S. in 1937 and 1939 to talk about Chablis. But he admitted the really effective Chablis marketing and education effort started 10 to 15 years ago. “Before that the knowledge of Chablis came from people who were wine lovers or who traveled to Europe.”

Bordet said the message never changes through generations. “Chablis is made in France and is in Burgundy,” he said. “There is no oak and we have special soil that gives the wine a freshness.”

Wine tourism remains relatively new in France and has been very slow developing in the premier region of Bordeaux. Chablis winemakers are a different breed who may not have fancy tasting rooms but they’re ready to welcome any visitor.

Bordet

Bordet

“Chablis is not far from Paris, two hours by car and less by train,” Bordet said. “You have more and more bed and breakfasts; you can have tours of the vineyard and tasting in cellar. Tourism has grown in Chablis and the winemakers will welcome you. We want to receive more tourists.”

Most people are surprised to learn that Chablis is a village of just 2,500 people. It’s very old world and welcoming. The valley around it is covered in vineyard for an idyllic setting. For tourism, the small city of Auxerre, about 40,000 inhabitants, offers a wide range of hotels and transportation companies and is less than 30 minutes away.

Moreau has an old family domaine in Chablis. He turned winemaking duties over to his son Fabien, who is also a chef, in 2001. The family name has been a part of Chablis since 1814. “We do a tour of the winery and free tasting,” he said. “We are not really organized like some wineries but if somebody wants to visit and taste we are very open to everyone.”

The more you learn about wine, and the great family stories behind wineries, the more enjoyable wine becomes. A pretty label often sells a bottle but a great story – especially when you meet the people – keeps you coming back for more.

Moreau wines and Bordet’s Domaine Sequinot-Bordet wines are available in the Midwest at better wine shops.

Conant Pairing Italian/Chablis

14 Thursday Mar 2013

Posted by in Food & Travel, France

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Not often do you get food and wine pairing advice from the likes of New York Chef, and Food Network regular, Scott Conant along with two important Chablis winemakers.

Wednesday afternoon I conducted a short phone interview with Christian Moreau and Jean-Jacques Bordet for a future newspaper column. Last night the two were guests of honor for a Chablis dinner with Italian Chef Scott Conant.

The marketing folks at Sopexa, NY., were kind enough to share this video talking about Chablis and food pairing.