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Howard W. Hewitt

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Howard W. Hewitt

Tag Archives: Provence

Hoosiers Loving Dry Rose’

02 Sunday Jun 2019

Posted by Howard in France, Uncategorized

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Dry Rose', Provence, RNDC, The Wine Shop, Vine & Table

Brian Borlick, in a nifty pink shirt and slacks, was in constant motion grabbing bottles, pouring pink wine, and talking deals.

Borlick is Premium Division Manager for Republic National Distributing Company (RNDC) in Indianapolis. He is also known within the Indy wine world as RNDC’s Rose’ guy.

Indiana Rose’ sales climbed 99 percent as of February, ending a 12-month period. Staggering! National sales increased 64 percent over the same time period, according to Nielson statistics.

image1 (1)

Borlick

“I remember we had a tasting 13 years ago,” Borlick said at a recent event for industry insiders and buyers. “We had 18 wines and about four people showed up. The last two years we’ve had over 100 wines and more than 100 people came to taste.”

Borlick noted that supermarkets, small restaurants, and maybe even Hoosiers were slow to the pink wine love affair – but not anymore. “Even restaurants in small towns are pouring by the glass,” he said. “All supermarkets have at least a few Rose’ wines.”

Gooley, manager and wine buyer for three Indianapolis retail stores under the Vine & Table banner, believes acceptance of dry pink wine is a generational issue. “I think it’s the baby boomers getting over the fact they’re not sweet,” he said. “We grew up with white zinfandel and still a lot of people have the idea if it’s pink it’s sweet. I also think we have a millennial generation willing to trust us and when they come in and we say it’s dry they buy it. I think we’ve done a good job of convincing people that dry rose is the red wine drinkers’ white wine.”

Borlick was like most Americans a little more than a decade ago. He thought of Rose’ as a coyingly sweet pink wine. “Then I went to France for the first time in 1999 and was force fed some Rose,” he joked. “I was planning not to like it but loved it. The French drink it for lunch and dinner.”

IMG_2324

Gooley

Most alcohol distributors certainly have Rose’ in their portfolio but RNDC is one of, if not, the biggest in Indiana. The dry pink now appeals to consumers of all ages but is particularly driven by the younger millennial generation.

“People used to go into wine shops and see 10 roses now they see 50 – people see that and think they must get in on this,” Gooley said. “Most rose’ sells between $10-$25. That fits with the rest of the retail market that’s had a great increase in that price range.”

Wine wholesalers and retailers do worry about a pink over saturation. “Rose’ sales are going to continue to grow but maybe not the same as past years,” Borlick said. “Now, every winery and an uncle are making a Rose’.”

Gooley agreed with his distributor’s comments. “We’re now in a position where consumers are going to get some substandard roses and poor quality. They’re are going to find things in lower price points that are not going to last a year or year and a half in the bottle and then are going to think I don’t like Rose. But they spent $5 on it.”

The most popular Rose’ is the lighter color and lighter palate of Provence Rose, the redder and more palate dominating Rose’s of France’s Rhone Valley and Tavel retain traditional popularity

Many credit the growth to Rose’ rise to powerhouse labels like Chateau d’Esclans’ Whispering Angel, the world’s most popular Rose, which has released 3.2 million bottle vintages in recent years. One of the other celebrity-driven but nice drinking Rose’ wines is Chateau Miraval. Insiders know actors Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie invested $67 million in the estate in 2008. Both wines sell for $19.99 to mid-$20 range.

Too often specific wines can be hard to find. But most reputable wine shops or even liquor stores have a wide selection. Look for Rose’ of Pinot Noir from the West Coast, Oregon or California, and pink from Provence or Southern France.

 

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Time to start stocking up on Rose’

06 Friday Apr 2018

Posted by Howard in France, Newspaper Column 2018, Uncategorized

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French Rose, Provence, Provence Rosé, Rose', Summer sippers

If it’s spring it must be a column about dry Rose’. If you are still shunning the wonderful dry – and yes, pink – Rose’ wines from around the world you are the fool fellow winos.

grape-sense-logoRose’ is beyond hot in the wine sales market – it’s a rocket ship. From mid-2016 to mid-2017, Rose sales in the U.S. increased by 53 percent in volume according to BeverageDaily.com and Nielsen sales data. Rose’ represents less than two percent of all US wine sales but the growth is unprecedented in any category.

While it is difficult to get up-to-date sales figures, the growth of French Provence Rose’ – the category leader – is stunning. In February of 2016, Nielsen reported an increase in sales over the previous 12 months of 54 percent on volume and 60 percent on value.

The growth rates for imported Rose, which comes from a number of countries but is dominated by the French, is crazy. Rose’ sales have outpaced the rest of the imported market for more than 10 years. In 2016, Provence Rose’ held 64 percent of all imported Rose’ sales.

IMG_1254 (1)More than 160 Provence wineries are exporting the salmon-colored wines to the US. For more than a dozen years exports of French Rose’ have grown every years at double digit rates.

Two of the biggest selling French Rose’ wines are Chateau d’Esclans Whispering Angel and Domaine Miraval’s short, stout bottle with the backing of Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie. Even these two best sellers come in at the mid $20 price point. It’s not unusual to see Whispering Angel under $20 down to $15 come end of the summer clearance – if there is any left. Several producer make several price levels of Rose’ with d’Esclans Garrus at the top of the pack at an average of $80 a bottle.

But if you’re not a Francophile there are plenty of Rose choices at home where quality is skyrocketing in the last couple of years. Oregon and California producers, particular those who grow Pinot Noir, have jumped into the booming Rose’ market. After attending a recent Rose’ tasting presented by one of Indiana’s biggest wine distributors, it’s easy to see the vast improvement in Rose’ of Pinot over past years.

But look around your wine shop for Rose’ wine from Spain, many of Italy, and Rose’ of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec.

It’s not just a summer sipper. Rose’ owns the summer and has eyes on becoming more a year around part of your wine shopping habits.

NOTE: Would you like some specific Rose’ recommendations? You’ll find a long lists of Rose wines Howard has tasted and recommends listed in the following post.

 

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Say Summer Refreshment with a Whisper

22 Sunday May 2016

Posted by Howard in France, Newspaper Column 2016, Uncategorized

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Oregon, Pinot Noir, Provence, Rose'

Spring is upon us and summer just a few weeks away. Just like the change of seasons, it’s time to sing the praise of dry rosé.

Grape Sense LogoAlmost every year for the 8 years of this newspaper column dry rosé has been featured a time or two in warm weather. The columns usually start with a disclaimer that these pinks are not sweet but rather dry, satisfying, and delicious wines.

Rosé is one of the greatest porch-sipping wines of summer. But good dry rosé also is a great food wine and is spectacular with seafood.

The wine is diverse in that it’s made around the world and made with many different grapes. Breaking it down in the simplest of terms, red wine gets its color when the juice is left in contact with the purple skins. Rosé gets its signature pink color from greatly less time mingling with its own skin.

RoseloresThere are so many to choose from but I strongly recommend two in particular. First, are the Rosé wines from Pinot Noir. Many of the great Oregon Pinot Noir labels are now making a Rosé. More and more California wineries are adding a pink wine to their lineup as well.

Instead of a laundry lists of recommended wines, I’ll offer up just two.  The first is Martin Ray Rosé of Pinot Noir. The Sonoma Russian River Valley wine is one of the best examples you’ll find of the Pinot version. It’s very reasonably priced at $15-$16 and can be found in better wine shops.

The other recommendation is Chateau d’ Esclans “Whispering Angel” Rosé from Provence, France. Provence, in the south of France, is often considered home of the holy grail – the world’s best Rosé wines. Most of those wines are made of various blends of Grenache, Cinsaut, Syrah, Mourvèdre, and a local grape, Tibouren.

The first release of Whispering Angel was in 2007 with approximately 150,000 bottles. Rosé sales and consumption in the U.S. continue to have remarkable growth year after year. The 2016 production of Whispering Angel, alone, has exploded to more than 4.5 million bottles.

Good, drinkable Provence rosé can be found at $12-$18. But Whispering Angel, at about $20 and several others under $30, really show off the best of Provence. Another great Provence producer is Domaine d’Ott.

 

 

 

 

 

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It’s Pink, Shapely, and Delicious!

31 Wednesday Jul 2013

Posted by Howard in France, Uncategorized

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Provence, Provence Rosé, Rose'

I’ve become a huge proponent of dry Rosé wines and particularly Rosé from France’s Provence region.

RoseBottlesI get asked all of the time how to pick out the good ones, where to find them, price points, and if I’m sure they’re not sweet.

In reverse order – they’re not sweet, great dry Rosé wines can be found from low teens to mid $20 range, and you can find them in any good wine shop.

Now how do you pick out the good ones? First, go to trusted producers and names you’ve heard before. If it’s the best of the best, those wonderful Provence wines, it can be even simpler – just look at the bottle.

Not every Provence winemaker uses the old-style curvy wine bottle but many still do. I can’t think of a single Rosé I’ve purchased in that bottle that’s not been pretty darn good.

I had that not-so-bright, but nonetheless, profound thought in a wine shop tonight. I bought two of the shapely bottles and look forward to further testing my theory.

Just buy a curvy bottle of Provence Rosé and see if you don’t agree!

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Provence Rose’ – A Beautiful Thing

05 Wednesday Jun 2013

Posted by Howard in France

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Provence, Rose'

I shot a bunch of photos tonight of a nice Provence Rose’ wine being poured into a glass. I did it with a 50mm lense, Canon 40D .. in front of a few potted plants. They turned out really nice.

And .. the Rose’ was pretty darn good too!

Provence650

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Dry Rose Captures American Palates

20 Monday May 2013

Posted by Howard in France, Newspaper Column 2013

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France, Julie Peterson, Provence, Provence Wine Council, Rose', Vins de Provence

Vins de Provence graphic

Vins de Provence graphic

The numbers are staggering. Americans are falling in love with French dry Rosé. Last year imported Rosé went up 28 percent – most of that coming from Provence, France.

Grape Sense Logo“The growth is partly led by the Mediterranean diet,” said Julie Peterson of the Provence Wine Council. “Rosé from Provence is less than 3 milligrams of sugar.  It’s not very sweet, but has fruit flavors. But it’s a dry wine and it’s made with red grapes. So you have that great character of a red wine that is dry with a white wine feel in the mouth.”

But the explosive growth is not new. While most of the wine market grows at single digits in the best years, Provence imports to the U.S. have grown at double-digit rates every year since 2003.

“Provence is the biggest exporter and producer of Rosé in the world and they’ve been making Rosé for 26 centuries – or as long as anyone has been making wine. The largest percent of their production is Rosé. Provence is the gold standard and Americans are discovering that.”

Rose' low resPeterson’s job is to help spread the word. She was in Chicago earlier this year for Provence producers’ first visit to the Windy City. More than 20 Provence winemakers poured their wines for importers, wholesalers, and the wine media.

That salmon-pink wine is not setting on shelves long either.  U.S. retail sales of Rosé wines priced at or above $12 a bottle grew by 28 percent volume and 23 percent on dollars in 2012. That’s a stunning comparison to the 1.8 percent of volume and 4.8 percent in dollars for total U.S. retail table wine sales.

Rosé wine has been a fixture in France for many years. It’s often consumed at lunch, near the ocean and particularly during warm weather. But it’s also a remarkably versatile wine with food.

It’s important to understand, as Peterson noted, that the dry light pink wine is made from red wine grapes. Red wine is given extensive contact with the grape skins to create the color while Rose’ has minimal contact with the skins to get the desired pink hues and lighter flavor.

Provence Rosé is a blend made from some combination of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, Mourvedre, Tibouren, Carignan, or Cabernet Sauvignon.

In Provence, Rosé is king with nearly 88 percent of all production devoted to Rose’ over traditional red and white wines. Provence produces 40 percent of France’s AOC Rosé. The French AOC designation is an assurance of authenticity and quality as established by government regulation.

Simply put for the average wine consumer, dry Rosé is not the pink white Zinfandel from the 1970s. Dry Rosé is a sophisticated wine of strawberry, mineral and acid that’s refreshing all alone or delicious with lighter meals. And most really great Provence is priced less than $10!

Howard’s Provence Picks: Chateau La Tour De Beraud, Chateau Revelette, and two personal favorites, Andieux & Fils and Domaine Ott.

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Oregon, Provence Wines Big Hit

08 Friday Mar 2013

Posted by Howard in Oregon

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David Adelsheim, Jean-Jacquies Breban, Jesse Lange, Lynn Penner-Ash, Pinot in the Windy City, Provence, Willamette Valley Wineries, Winderlea Winery

CHCIAGO, Il. – As trade events go, Thursday was a smash hit. The Willamette Valley wineries created a standing room only response during their first trip to Chicago.

Organizers said 500 trade (wine importers, wholesalers, retailers, and wine press) members registered and crowded into City Winery on the city’s near downtown west side.

Even more impressive was the 500 registered for the public tasting event Thursday night at $65 per person.

Penner-Ash

Penner-Ash

I was able to interview some old Oregon friends and several I’ve always wanted to meet. I chatted with Lynn Penner-Ash, David Adelsheim, and John Bergstrom among others.

Oregon Pinot Noir has established a standard that almost never disappoints. The wines were amazing. I talked with many of those folks and others about the emergency – or continued emergency – of Oregon Chardonnay.

After catching up with old friends Jesse Lange, Bill and Donna of Winderlea, and David Milliman of Drouhin, I dashed across town to the Provence tasting.

Breban

Breban

The most amazing thing about the wonderful Provence wines is the price point. Fabulous Rose’ can cost as little as $12-$18. I had the chance to interview Jean-Jacquies Breban, President of the Provence Wine Council about Rose’ booming popularlity in the US and what that means to producers back in France.

I have notes on some labels to explore and specific great wines I tasted I’ll get up in next few days. I remain on the road for my real job for a couple more days.

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The Good, Bad, and Great Value

26 Thursday Jul 2012

Posted by Howard in France

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Provence, White Bordeaux

Behind again on wine reviews so going to do my best to catch up over the next few days. Let’s start with a couple of Rose’ wines and a great value Bordeaux white.

L’Esprit De Sainte Marguerite 2011 – This is typical salmon-pink Provence Rose that satisfies. It was a light and refreshing Rose with a fresh berry taste that I enjoyed with some grilled shrimp.

It’s a combination of Grenache and Cinsault. Decanter, the well-respected British publication and website, gave the 2011 Rose’ four a possible five stars. This Rose, though a bit pricer than many I’ve enjoyed this summer, was far from the best or worst I’ve tasted. At this price point, I expected a bit more but it’s not disappointing.

L’Esprit De Sainte Marguerite 2011, $19.99, though I found it a little cheaper on some internet sites. Recommended.

Chateau Margui 2010 – I can only give this wine mention. It was clearly past its prime when I drank it a couple of weeks ago. It’s available here in Indiana and wine ratings I found were positive. I picked it up at a higher price point than normal thinking it would be something special. The wine had not gone bad, just past it’s prime.

The fruit was gone and the wine was flat. The finish was borderline unpleasant. I’ve asked a couple of retailers about the aging of Rose and all have said the higher end wines should age nicely for a few years. This is the second $20-plus Rose I’ve opened recently and been very disappointed. I won’t criticize the wine because I don’t think I tasted it at its best. Let’s just say I won’t be buying any more 2010 Rose this season. I’ll stick to the current releases of 2011.

Chateau Margui 2010 Rose, $26, No Recommendation.

Chateau Haut Rian 2010 Bordeaux Blanc – Here is a wine to bebunk critics who say you can’t buy a drinkable and enjoyable wine for under $10.

This is mostly Semilion with Sauvignon Blanc and I loved it. I got plentiful grapefruit and maybe a hint of lime on this light and minerally white wine. It was delightful with a swordfish steak I seared on the grill.

It normally retails around $12 – a great, great bargain. But I found cases of it at Carmel’s Vine & Table for $9.99.

Chateau Haut Rian 2010 Bordeaux Blanc, $SRP $12.99, Highly Recommended.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

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