Tag Archives: Zinfandel

Watching sausage made educational

23 Tuesday Jan 2018

Posted by in California, Napa/Sonoma, Newspaper Column 2018, Uncategorized

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No one really wants to see the sausage being made. Occasionally, there is reason to see how things come together.

grape-sense-logoGrape Sense is now in its 11th year of publication all around Indiana and viewed via social media coast to coast. People often ask if all ideas have been exhausted. That’s not really a problem. Opportunity sometimes provides ideas and new directions and that has happened lately. The 10 years of wine writing has opened up more connections with marketing firms directly to wineries and winemakers.

Numerous opportunities have popped up recently to interview winemakers in California, Oregon and even Italy. Reading winemakers thoughts about their approach to production and their views of the industry is really educational. A few weeks ago we featured Ravenswood’s Gary Sitton, who has replaced the legendary Joel Peterson. Today’s column features more specifics. We’ll feature more such features in Grape Sense throughout 2018.

Ravenswood is one of the leading Zinfandel producers in the country. Historically, Peterson’s efforts have not only propelled the winery but the varietal. Entry-level Ravenswood is widely available in Indiana. Select vineyard designate wines can be found at better wine shops.

Gary Stitton

Ravenswood’s’ Gary Sitton

Sitton began our conversation talking about Ravenswood’s approach to Sonoma County Zinfandels.

“We pick the grapes just ripe, not over-ripe and allowing for the grapes’ natural acidity to bring freshness in young wines, but also the ability to age over time,” Sitton said. “Our winemaking techniques of really focusing on the vineyard enables us to create Sonoma Zinfandels as it is our home, as well as produce Zins from Lodi, Napa and Mendocino Counties, all of which are full of personality and can be traced across vintages.”

Sitton also appreciates getting into the tasting room to see how his wines are being received. “I try to make it into the tasting room when I can, to get some one-on-one time with our visitors,” he said. “I like to get a personal take and get a pulse to how they feel about our wines. I think it’s important to have firsthand insight from the people supporting us the most. More so, I think it is important to have a face behind Ravenswood, in the tradition of our Founding Raven (Peterson), as it shares the true human story of our Sonoma winery’s home.”

The entry-level wines, usually under $20, are approachable and give wine fans a good introduction to California Zinfandel. Certainly the vineyard designates, in the $39-$60 category, present richer and smoother Zins for a more refined taste.

“With Ravenswood County Series, Single Vineyard Designates, as well as our Vintners Blend wines, we believe we can continue to support wide national distribution, while providing options at different price points,” Sitton said.

And if you travel to Sonoma, Ravenswood is a great stop just outside the town of Sonoma.

‘Godfather of Zin’ tough act to follow

08 Friday Dec 2017

Posted by in California, Napa/Sonoma, Newspaper Column 2017, Uncategorized

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Many a young man or woman has stepped into their father or mother’s shoes to continue a family business. Many a young business person has faced the challenge of stepping into a legendary business leader’s shoes to run a thriving company. Gary Sitton is in the process of becoming a more prominent player at Ravenswood Winery in Sonoma.

grape-sense-logoRavenswood is the iconic Zinfandel producer just on the outskirts of Sonoma, the city. Joel Peterson is a legendary winemaker in California and remains active at the winery. Any discussion of California Zin features Peterson prominently.

“I don’t consider myself to be Joel’s replacement. He is the Godfather of Zin and he is truly one of kind,” Sitton told Grape Sense. “Besides, he is still actively involved with Ravenswood today. He is a mentor and friend, and my goal is to continue to build upon his great winemaking legacy, showcasing California’s Heritage variety, Zinfandel.”

Gary Sitton in Barrel room 2

Sitton in Ravenswood barrel room.

Sitton credits Peterson for teaching him the nuance of making great Zin. “Joel taught me a Burgundian approach to winemaking. His use of indigenous yeast from each vineyard, in small open top fermenters was key to best expressing the terroir of each site. While on hiatus, I realized how special Ravenswood is and how the vineyards we work with make our wines so special. Some of these vineyards were planted
in the 1880s and survived Prohibition.”

Most of Sitton’s career is tied to Ravenswood as an assistant winemaker 2001-2006 and then as winemaker for a year in 2006. That ‘sabbatical’ occurred during 2008-2010 at Blackstone Winery then a five-year stint as Director of Winemaking at Clos Du Bois Wines. Sitton returned to Ravenswood in 2015 to assume the title of Director of Winemaking. Peterson remains active working with grape growers and
often working as a Zin ambassador to wine drinkers across the country.

Sitton was heavily influenced by Peterson by tasting his wines. “I had an epiphany while tasting site-specific wines with Joel, from the same grape, same winemaker, same winemaking program, but from different vineyard sites, and each wine was so different from the next,” Sitton said.

“As a result, I believe in Joel’s vision for what wine should be: that it is about place, about history and for Ravenswood, that it is deeply about Sonoma itself. It is an honor and a privilege to be back home continuing Joel’s 41-year legacy of expressive, high quality wines from some of the greatest vineyards in the greatest grape-growing areas in Sonoma and Napa.”

Ravenswood is widely distributed and offers an entry-level Zin found in many groceries, liquor stores, and better wine shops. Those better wine shops also carry some of the vineyard designate wines Sitton described above. Ravenswood Old Vine Zin, Sonoma, can be found across the Midwest, usually under $20.

When asked for wine recommendations, in general, I always tell people to go with a name you know until you learn the wines. If you don’t know Ravenswood – you should.

Cold Weather Is Time for Muscle Wines

24 Friday Feb 2017

Posted by in Newspaper Column 2017, Uncategorized

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This one is for you, guys!

One of the keys in helping people with wine is to appeal to the widest possible audience. The same applies to a wine column. Grape Sense has always focused on affordable wines but has kept the focus pretty diverse.

grape-sense-logoSometimes though a particular focus is helpful. There is a term in the wine world that can be very misleading – ‘feminine wine.’ Generally, the term means a lighter bodied wine with a light hand on the alcohol and mouthfeel.

I’ve never heard the term ‘masculine wine’ in my 8-10 years learning about wine. Occasionally, the term muscular is used, usually meaning big and bold. Well, today men let’s punch somebody in the mouth. Let’s talk about big, bold manly wine that makes you say “damn!”

There is enough cold weather left in the early days of 2017 to go big with your wine choices. Big wines go with big foods. Any discussion of big wines begins and ends with the “king of grapes” or Cabernet Sauvignon. Similar to never hearing about masculine wine I’ve never heard of a queen of grapes.

muscle-wine-illustrationCabernet is the most-planted red wine grape in the world. Cabernet is big fruit, big mouthfeel and big tannins on the finish to stand up to big food. Cabernet should be enjoyed with bloodied red meat, charred on the outside and medium rare on the inside. Growl!

Cabs can pair nicely with big bold, beef-based, stews as well. But nothing quite matches the muscle power of beef and Cab. Good value Cabs are J. Lohr, Robert Mondavi, Clos du Val, Louis Martini. You can usually find one of those on the grocery or liquor store shelf. Most of those wines sell for around $15. Keep in mind gents, big red wine often means big alcohol so choose carefully.

There is no more enjoyable pairing – maybe even with fewer grunts – is red wine and chocolate. Cab is pretty big for most chocolates and not the best pick for pairing. Get some good dark chocolate, about 70 percent dark, and pair it with a Zinfandel. Zin brings bigger and softer fruit than a cab with a nice peppery finish. Try Three Deadly Zins or Consentino Cigar Zin as a good pairing. If you have trouble finding either of those look for a Zin from Lodi, California. There are several good ones under $20.

For another choice I’d suggest Syrah. Washington Syrah is big, rich, smooth and fabulous value wine.

As you develop your wine and chocolate tastes try experimenting with the wine, sure, but experiment with the chocolate as well. The sweet chocolate bars at the checkout counter won’t cut it guys. Kroger stores are now carrying Lindt chocolate – a pretty decent and affordable choice. Experiment by going from 60-80 percent cacao. You might be surprised with the differences.

Real men drink red wine. Be bold and give the big boys a chance.

Summer BBQ Wine & Porch Pounders

10 Friday Jul 2015

Posted by in Newspaper Column 2015

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Any regular wine column should include occasional education and certainly advice. Summer is a big time for cooking out, family outings, and friends sharing good times.

The first rule of wine is drink what you like when you want it with whatever food you enjoy. With that said, there are some pairings and ideas which work well during summer.

Grape Sense LogoSummer is a time for BBQ of all sorts. While a big Cabernet will always work with red meat, there are other choices for big flavor without the huge finish or bitterness of strong tannins.

If you are doing beef or pork on the grill, perhaps with a bold rub or red sauce, try a Zinfandel or Syrah. These wines are perfect for summer grilling and just might be old favorites you haven’t tried for awhile.

Zinfandel is particularly great for grilled meats because of the usual fruit-forward characteristic of most California Zins. The wines tend to be fruity, balanced, and a perfect match to bold flavored or spicy meats.

And for an inexpensive and easy to find Zin, try “Seven Deadly Zins’ from the Michael David Winery folks of Calfifornia. The wine is great and usually under $15 and a good representation of quality Zinfandel.

It’s also time for Amercians to give Syrah another chance. Syrah has become one of the most unfairly vilified grapes in Anmerican wine production but that is changing. The wine fell out of favor a number of years back, in part, because there was a lot of bad Syrah on the market.

Syrah is getting new respect made more refined, and often, in a lighter and easier to drink style. Syrah should deliver a nice spicy fruit forward characteristic with a peppery-like finish. Syrah and pork pair perfectly for summer dishes.

“Lenore” Columbia Valley Syrah from Washington state is an incredible QPR wine – quality to price ratio. The wine is the second label for Owen Roe, one of Washington’s most respected winemakers. The Lenore can be found at many Midwestern wine shops for $14-$16. It’s a great value. As a matter of fact, the Lenore rates as one of the top bottles I’ve found under $15 in several years.

Now how about those porch pounders? When friends gather on the patio or porch you want something delicious to offer your guests. There are so many great, and easy to find, options beyond the unoaked Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. I think Riesling is a bit sweet for summer heat but try a Kabinett level and that might work for your friends who like a bit sweeter wines.

More traditional recommendations would be a South African or California Chenin Blanc. Upper state Michigan is producing some really incredible dry Pinot Blanc. If you’re in a wine shop, look for Pinot Blanc from France’s Alsace region.

But don’t be afraid to experiment. Spain and Italy offer several different white wine grapes which will delight and surprise you. These whites are quite inexpensive and tasty. And your guests will be surprised with something different.

If seafood is on the deck menu look for a Albarino or “Vinho Verde” from Portugal. Good wine shops will have a bottle or two in their inventory. The wine is gaining popularity each year in the U.S. It’s dry, crisp with fairly bold acidity – a perfect seafood match. Who doesn’t like grilled shrimp and white wine?

All of these white wines can be found for under $20 a bottle and most under $15. Summer is a time to enjoy friends and good times.

Catching Up (Again) on Reviews

12 Tuesday Aug 2014

Posted by in California, South America

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My biggest downfall in maintaining a blog is getting wine reviews written. I prefer telling stories but the utility of at least quick thoughts on some good wines I’ve recently consumed seems like a part of the job I should NOT ignore..

I taste so much outstanding wine this summer the idea of reviewing some of the things I’ve sipped at home slips to the “I really need to do that” level and not get done.

So here we go! Some recent nice-drinking wines.

Grey PinoVentisquero Grey 2012 Pinot Noir – This was a nice surprise from Chile. Much of the Chilean Pinot Noir I’ve previously consumed had that nagging vegetal or green pepper hint that was not predominant in this wine. I liked its earthiness and sort of a damp wood quality. That make sense?

It’s so hard to find drinkable good Pinot under $20-$25 but this fits the category. It has a little spice, nice acidity and ultimately a very drinkable glass of wine.

Ventisquero Grey 2012 Pinot Noir, average price around $20, Recommended.

MiraMira 2010 Napa Valley Cabernet – Wow, this is good wine. I tasted a lot of bottles at a higher price point during my 10 days in Calfornia last month but only a few were better than this one.

The nifty blend of 91% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc, and 4% Syrah worked well. That Cab Franc and Syrah gave the wine a nice rich and round mouth feel.

This wine had great balance and a perfect Cab finish – I got the tannins, sensed the oak but it was in balance with the nice Cabernet flavor.

Mira 2010 Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, SRP $52 – but found online as low as $39, Highly Recommended.

Owen Roe 2010 Ex Umbris Syrah – This Columbia Valley Syrah, from one of the grape’s best producers, was extraordinary wine. It should be noted the ’09 vintage of this wine made Wine Spectator’s annual Top 100 list.

owen_roe_ex_umbris_label__13161_stdI had tasted Roe’s value label Syrah – Lenore – around $17 so had to step up to this bottle at about twice the price. I wasn’t blown away but thought it was so much better than many West Coast Syrah offerings. It was tad thinner than I expected but did have lovely fruit and nice balance.

It had a very identifiable richness or velvety feel in the mouth. I’m a sucker for that type of experience every time. It’s just very well made wine. This wine got 90 points from Wine Spectator and Stephen Tanzer.

Owen Roe 2010 Ex Umbris Syrah, $29, Highly Recommended.

Cesar Toxqui 2005 Mendocino Zinfandel – I had the pleasure of sitting with Cesar Toxqui at a dinner in Mendocino, Ca., in 2011. He has a fascinating story of growing up in the wine business and worked his way up to his own label.

CesarLabelHe was working still then with a member of the Fetzer family at Jeriko Estate wines but aching to do more with his own label. We tasted a couple of his wines at dinner and I really was taken with his Zinfandel. Zin is a bit of a calling card for Mendocino producers.

I thought the wine had great fruit, depth, and finish. I had held onto this one since that trip and it was worth the wait. He is a very small production winery so finding it would be a big challenge. Still, it continues to reinforce my continuing theme of look for the small producers to find big surprises and great wine.

Cesar Toxqui 2005 Mendocino Zinfandel, around $25 (from memory), Very Highly Recommended – if you can find it.

Three Great Reds & a White

08 Saturday Mar 2014

Posted by in California, France, South America

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It seems each time I get around to doing some reviews it’s about ‘catching up!’ Today is not different with a few really good bottles I’ve enjoyed in recent weeks.

Let’s start with my recent “wine kick” – Syrah and an old favorite.

T-vineT-Vine 2007 Napa Valley Syrah – Winter is a great time for stews and beef dishes. Syrah is a great pairing with most of those dishes. Loved the huge nose on this wine and the taste of blackberry, all the dark fruits and good spice. Some serious wine drinkers would call the wine jammy but the mouth feel was not quite that heavy for me.

It’s a big wine with 14.6 percent alcohol but I liked the balance and smooth spicy finish.

The other odd thing about this was an extraordinary amount of sediment. I use a Vinturi aerator with a filter so it wasn’t a problem in the glass — but a large amount was left in the bottle!

T-Vine 2007 Napa Valley Syrah, retails at $40-$50, Highly Recommended.

Klinker BrickKlinker Brick 2011 Old Vine Zinfandel – This old Lodi friend seldom disappoints. The Zin has the kind of spicy or peppery finish you’d expect from Zinfandel along with nice dark red fruit – think cherries.

I remember more pronounced fruit from previous vintages but still such a solid choice. My only criticism is this wine is really hot – that’s 15.8 percent alcohol hot!

It’s a consistent winner though from year to year and a great house Zin.

Klinker Brick 2011 Old Vine Zinfandel, $15 in most stores, Recommended.

GreyGrey 2011 Carménère – The Vina Vintisquero Grey Maipo Valley Carménère was simply one of the best I’ve ever tasted.

Blueberries, blackberries, smoke and spice make this a seductive glass of wine. Gone is the green vegetal taste of way too many inexpensive Chilean wines! It spends 18 months in new oak and is the kind of big wine that pairs really well with big food. It’s a reasonable 14 percent alcohol.

The wine has long finish and will have you re-thinking Carménère. It drinks above its less than $20 price point! I couldn’t have been more impressed!

Vina Vintisquero Grey Carménère, $18.99, Trade Sample, Very Highly Recommended.

reserve-grand-veneur-blanc-domaine-grand-veneurAlain Jaume & Fils 2012 Grand Veneur Cotes du Rhone Blanc – The wine is your typical French Southern Rhone white blend. But what does that mean?

These inexpensive white Rhones are always very drinkable if not equally unremarkable. But that’s not always a bad thing. If you want a nice, soft French white for dinner or as a sipper you can’t go wrong with a well-made wine in the low teens. Most of the Rhone whites fall into that description.

“Rhone blend” usually includes some varying amounts of Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Rousanne, Viognier, Bourboulenc, and Picpou.

Alain Jaume & Fils 2012 Grand Veneur Cotes du Rhone Blanc, $13.99, Recommended.

Nothing Like Evening of Great Wine!

12 Monday Aug 2013

Posted by in Italy, South America, Spain

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On more than one occasion I’ve written about my wine buddies on the blog and our frequent gatherings to try new wines, themed nights, blind tastings, and enjoy the good conversation and great wine.

A couple of the guys have job situations that have them out of the community for awhile so it’s always great when we can get the band back together. We were able to do that Friday night and had a dynamite lineup.

FriulanoLivio Felluga 2011 Friulano – I have to admit, this was my first Friulano and I loved it – so did the guys.

The Friulano region is as far north and east as one can travel in Italy. The wine is yellow-ish with fresh apple and citrus notes. I loved the rich mouth feel and balance. It has a hint of almond and even a bit of a grassy thing going on.

The Livio Felluga is the name to look for too. The Felluga family brough Friulano back after WWII, according to the winery website. Wine Enthusiast gave this vintage a great 90 points.

Livio Felluga 2011 Friulano, $26, Trade Sample, can find it higher and lower in the $20-range, Highly Recommended.

Turley 2008 Old Vine Zinfandel – The wine guys and I have had plenty of Zin but never Turley. That’s going to change!

2008-turley-zinfandel-old-vinesThe Turley old vine was our first red of the evening but might have been the best wine of the night. Simply put- it was stunning Zin.

Dark ruby red, spicy nose, incredible balance from tip of tongue to lingering finish, it was stylistic and silky with a rewarding finish. It had raspberry and pepper and all things that make Zin so alluring.

It’s an alcohol bomb but doesn’t taste like it at a whopping 15.6 percent.

Robert Parker gave this wine a stingy 89 points. Steven Tanzer a point lower at 88. It’s every bit that good and maybe better.

Turley 2008 Old Vine Zinfandel, $39.99, Very Highly Recommended.

toroSan Roman 2006 Toro – This is good as Spanish wine gets at a reasonable price point. I’ve had this wine on two or three previous occasions and it never disappoints.

This is a bold, muscular, in-your-face red wine that still has balance. Think smoke, tobacco, chocolate, and leather for this wine that is only seven years old. The critics all rave at 93-94 points.

Blackberry and dried fruit might best describe the palate. It’s big dry wine. We were enjoying this with shortribs which had spent the day in a crock pot. It was an awesome pairing.

San Roman 2006 Toro, prices all over from $30-$50, Very Highly Recommended.

Achaval Ferrer 2010 Quimera – This Argentinian blend from one of the country’s top producers just rocks. The wine is a unique blend of 31 percent Malbec, 20 percent Merlot, 27 percent Cab Sauvignon, 18 percent Cab Franc, and 4 percent Petit Verdot.

achaval-ferrer-quimera__92820.1359816257.1280.1280It’s something new from the winery and fits the description, often over-used, as a Bordeaux blend. These vineyards are 3,000 feet above sea level and represent some of the best regions in Mendoza.

It gets the classic treatment of new French oak, 40 percent, and is a reasonable 14 percent alcohol.

Plum, chocolate, and a hint of oak makes it a great wine with steak. We were sipping while tasting bites of a grilled ribeye and it worked great. It was not quite as big a wine as I had anticipated but certainly a good way to taste Argentina beyond all the mid-teen priced reds.

Achaval Ferrer 2010 Quimera, SRP $56, Trade Sample, Highly Recommended.

Classic Zin, Good Rose, Killer Find!

20 Saturday Apr 2013

Posted by in California, France, Italy, Napa/Sonoma

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There are good wines, great wines and wines which just bring you joy. These reviews offer a good mixture of all.

SEbastianiSebastiani Vineyards 2009 Zinfandel – This was really great, classic Sonoma County Zinfandel from Sebastiani – a family with roots in California dating back to the late 1800s.

The wine had wonderful balance, power, really dark fruit, pepper, and the dusty quality that really sets some wines apart as they age gracefully.

It’s what most wine geeks would call really “ripe fruit” but isn’t that what entices some wine buyers” I think so.

This wine is a great bargain that tops many at a higher price point. CellarTracker users gave it 89 points and I find that rating spot on.

I got this bottle in a blind “mystery’ half case sale through Invino wines online site.  What a pleasant surprise considering I got it for $10!

Sebastiani Vineyards 2009 Zinfandel, $14-$16, Highly Recommended.

cinsaultLes Jamelles 2011 Cinsault Rose’ – With summer approaching, I’m looking for great dry Rosé. My search led me to pick up this bottle last weekend after attending a large tasting of nearly 50 different wines. (No, I didn’t taste them all!)

Cinsault is a red wine grape and mostly used in blends. It’s also a popular component of many Rosé wines. It’s widely planted in Southern France’s Languedoc region. The 100-percent Cinsault was unusual and the price was cheap so I grabbed a bottle.

It’s a very light wine on the palate, making it perfect for hot summer weather. Frankly, I was looking for a bit more flavor. It also had a tiny bit of a ‘candied” mouth feel. I would by no means call it sweet though. I liked the flavors and just wish it was more pronounced.

But at this price, it’s a great dry Rosé for those exploring these delightful summer wines.

Les Jamelles 2011 Cinsault Rose’, $11.99, Cork & Cracker, Indianapolis; Recommended

RignanaInvino Online Wine Surprise! – I buy a lot of wine from online flash sites. These are sites which buy directly from wineries at a reduced rate. But the good sites, and there a plenty of sites, are sourcing interesting wines you may never find off a shelf.

That’s what happened when I scanned an Invino Wine sale Saturday morning. Invino was offereing Fattoria di Rignana Chianti Classico. I had visited Fattoria di Rignana on New Year’s Eve 2009.

Rignana-Chianti-Classico-2007-LabelIt was a cold gray day but I remember the Rignana was simply the best Chianti Classico I had ever tasted. I ordered three bottles off the site. It normally retails for $30 but I got it for $17,99 a bottle.

If you’d like an invitation to Invino, just drop me a note or leave a comment at the bottom of the blog. You need to include an email address. I’ve written about many of these flash internet sites. These web sales points are offering some of the best deals you’ll find in wine.

Story Behind Michael David’s 7 Deadly Zins a Tasty Tale

21 Monday May 2012

Posted by in California, Newspaper Column 2012

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The story behind one of the best tasting and most successful value wines has good winemaking, gratitude to terrible sweet wine, and a long family history of fruit production to credit for its success.

7 Deadly Zins is one of the easiest to find value wines in the $10-$15 price range. It’s 100 percent Zinfandel and consistently a favorite of critics and fans. It’s made by Michael David Winery, Lodi, Ca., an area best known for its full-flavored Zinfandel.

“I was in the winery making wine and I wanted to taste what other vineyards tasted like for Zin,” Michael Phillips recently told me. “So I bought some grapes from my seven growers and put them in barrels separately. You could taste the difference between those seven old vine vineyards. The grapes were grown by my uncle, neighbor across the street, cousin down the road, and my best friend from high school. We had a couple old vineyards next to the winery. They were all different to a certain extent.”
Michael Phillips during a recent Indianapolis visit.
Phillips recognized a distinct taste of Lodi in all seven wines but knew his winery couldn’t bottle seven different Zinfandels and expect success. 
“So I said lets combine all seven and call it 7 Zins,” Phillips said. “So I went to my brother (David), who was doing more of the marketing at the time and gave him my idea. He said let’s tie it to the seven deadly sins we learned in grammar school. We made 800 cases that first year and sold out in two months.”  
To say the wine took off is a bit of an understatement. The 2002 release of 7 Deadly Zins was gone in no time and the brothers knew they had found something special. The Michael David Winery today produces nearly 300,000 cases of wine annually with more than 200,000 cases under the 7 Deadly Zin label.
Back when it all started in the 1980s the winery was simply known as Phillips but there were other Phillips wineries in California so the brothers put their first names on the bottles to become Michael David Winery.
The family story actually goes back much further. The Lodi family farm has been producing fruit of all sorts since the 1860s.
The brothers have fun with the names and labels marketing wines under the names of Earthquake, Incognito, Rapture, and even Freakshow. But it’s that $9-$12 Deadly Zin that makes the fun possible.
Zinfandel has been called “California’s grape.” As opposed to Cabernet, the Zin vines thrive past 100 years old and produce deeply flavored grapes.
“That’s what put Zinfandel on the map,” Phillips said. “It’s that taste of spice, the fruit and it’s easier to drink than tannic Cabernet.”
Oddly, California’s old vine Zins were probably saved by what many consider the bane of the wine Zin industry – white zinfandel. “Whie Zin helped those vines survive,” Phillips said. “When Sutter Home wanted all that white Zin in the 70s it kept those old vines from being ripped out and planted to whatever Gallo wanted at the time.”
Zinfandel is one of those wines that is sometimes targeted for its over-the-top fruit and alcohol. Phillips fights right back.
“We have a style it took me time to develop,” he said. “The longer we let the grapes hang on the vine the better  quality gets. The alcohol is going to be a little higher, but if you handle it right it’s not a negative. You get better color, more body and basically that’s our Michael David style.
“Fruit is good. People want fruit. Now, it can’t just be fruit and it can’t just be high alcohol. It can’t just be big tannic wine either. That’s why Napa buys so much of our Lodi fruit because it has a fruit component they don’t have. That’s the kind of stuff they don’t want you to know or tell you about but fruit is the key. People like fruit, and so many people are switching to that style – and Lodi has it.”
Howard Pick’s:
7 Deadly Zins – This easy to find value bottle can be found at $9-$14 a bottle. It is consistent and easy to appreciate. It has a bold in-your-face dark fruit flavor on the palate that pairs well with food.
6th Sense Syrah – This French-style 100 percent Syrah is beautiful wine that’s stunning for the $15 price point. It has a huge rich nose, dark purple color with hints of licorice, juicy dark fruit and a very pleasant and lingering finish.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com