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Howard W. Hewitt

~ … The "W" stands for wine!

Howard W. Hewitt

Category Archives: California

Catching Up On Recent Great Wines

19 Monday Mar 2012

Posted by Howard in Italy, Paso Robles & Mendocino, South America

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Calcu Carmenere, Cantina del Taburno Falanghina, LangeTwins Winery Midnight Reserve, Trivento Amado Sur Malbec

Time to catch up on some recent wines I’ve enjoyed. There is a wide spectrum of wines in this group and certainly something for everyone’s palate. I’m on a roll lately – these are all great wines!

Lioco Mendocino County 2010 Rose’ – I like my Rose’ and have made that clear here previously. This is one to try for those folks who turn their nose up at ‘pink wine.’ Take a sip of this ultra-dry Rose’ and you’ll forget any physical resemblance to some White Zinfandel. You might even think you’ve landed in Southern France where the Carignan grape reigns king.

This California wine is 100 percent Carignan and is just delightful. It’s old vine grapes which makes for a full-flavored wine. It’s color is closer to salmon than pink. It has just a hint of watermelon with more pronounced strawberry – not just strawberry, but strawberry picked fresh from the vine.

This fabulous Rose’ would be awesome with crackers and cheese, heavy crusted bread, grilled fish or a mushroom dish. I bought this bottle at Cork & Cracker in Indianapolis. 

Lioco Mendocino County 2010 Rose‘, $14.99, Very Highly Recommended

LangeTwins Winery Midnight Reserve – This Cabernet, Petit Verdot, Merlot, and Malbec blend is a really very nice big, but still smooth, red wine blend. Considering it’s a Lodi, California, blend, many would expect this to be huge fruit and powerful alcohol but its really neither. The alcohol comes in at a relatively modest 13.6 percent while the fruit is silky smooth and nicely balanced.

This juice was honored at a number of California wine competitions and it’s easy to see why with its nice fruit and balance. If you like a little bigger and rich, the LangeTwins is nice wine. It is distributed in Indiana.

LangeTwins Winery Midnight Reserve, $30, Highly Recommended

Cantina del Taburno Falanghina – If you don’t like this white wine, you don’t like white wine. Italy produces some delightful light-bodied whites and this one is right there with  more fruit than many you may have sampled.

Okay, so you’ve never heard of “Falanghina.” Don’t feel bad. It comes from a coastal region in Italy north of Naples. The wine is smooth with nicely balanced fruit. I got a lot of pear on my palate but you might find some almond or nectarine.

The best thing I can say about this white is you’ll want to drink it. I found it online for $14-$17. I bought this wine at Grapevine Cottage in Zionsville near the higher end of that range. 

Cantina del Taburno Falanghina, $16,99, Highly Recommended


Trivento Amado Sur 2010 Malbec – You want a bargain? You want a bang-for-your-buck wine? Here you go. The Trivento Amado Sur is a great value line from Argentina’s Mendoza region. The wine is a really nice balance between 80 percent Malbec, 10 percent Bonarda and 10 percent Syrah.

Argentina has been doing these three grapes in grand style for a number of years. This a  blend that I would use to move newbie wine drinkers away from Cab and Merlot. It’s a great introduction to a varietal that has changed the entire perception of South American wines. The taste will give you a rich dark fruit and hints of pepper. The wine would pair nicely with pork or seasoned chicken off the grill.

Trivento Amado Sur 2010 Malbec, Trade Sample, widely available around $11, Highly Recommended



Calcu 2008 Carmenere Reserva   –  I’ve never been overwhelmed by any Chilean Carmenere. It’s different. It has a taste profile different than most wines but I’ve found most of it pretty average, but drinkable, juice. I was pleasantly surprised by this trade sample of Calcu.

This wine had nice blackberry and spice. It was smooth without a funk or harshness many previous Carmeneres left me tasting. Chile’s Colchagua Valley is one of the hottest wine regions in Chile. The Carmenere, Syrah, and Cabernet offerings are worth a try.

This wine would work with grilled meats, probably big enough for that charred steak if you want something other than Cab or a big Malbec.

 Calcu 2008 Carmenere Reserva, Trade Sample, around $13-$14, Recommended


Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

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Russian River Magic: One Winegrower, Two Winemakers

09 Friday Mar 2012

Posted by Howard in California, Food & Travel

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Inman Wines, Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley, Sonoma, Ted Klopp

Kathleen Inman pours her Klopp Vineyard Pinot for me to taste

GRATON, Ca. – There is nothing like talking to winemakers, winery owners, and vineyard managers/owners to really learn about wine.

Ted Klopp, Kathleen Inman, and Merry Edwards bring all the components together to make some of California’s Russian River Valley’s best Pinot Noir.

Klopp pulls a barrel samle for us to taste.

Thursday morning I tasted the wines of Merry Edwards, who has an almost cult-like following for her small production Pinot Noir and almost magical Sauv Blanc. The next visit was with Kathleen Inman at Inman Family Wines. Then in the afternoon Ted Klopp shared a couple of hours talking about grape growing and working with winemakers to make the best wines possible.

Our first stop was at the Merry Edwards winer at Graton. Ron Hayes, who  has worked with Edwards for nine years, poured the wines and shared his considerable wine knowledge. The entry level Russian River Valley Pinot ($42) was nicely balanced, medium to light bodied Pinot. The Meredith Estate Pinot ($57) was the powerhouse of the lineup. It had bold Pinot fruit, a smooth mid-palate for powerful wine, and a lingering finish. The 2009 Klopp Ranch Pinot ($57) had a little less power but a longer finish – my favorite of the line up. We tasted an Olivet Lane Pinot ($60) that was similar in elegance and style to the Klopp.

Ron also pulled a 2007 Tobias Glen Pinot ($54) to show the wine’s aging ability. He suggested the entire lineup would age nicely for up to 10 years. The Tobias was also a winner with a soft balanced Pinot palate with a very Burgundian mouth feel.

Obviously, these are not value wines. This is boutique wine made by one of California’s most honored, recognized, and darn best winemakers. The product proves it. Edwards has a reputation for meticulous attention to detail. In our afternoon visit to Klopp, he talked about Edwards frequent visits to the vines to check on growth, taste fruit, and give Ted all the feedback necessary worth of Pinot Noir at these prices.

The second stop Inman Wines with owner/winemaker Kathleen Inman. A charming host and winemaker/grower concerned about sustainability and the environment, poured her lighter style Pinots for us. We tasted several of her wines and a couple of those choices in the 07 and 08 vintage. She buys grapes from Ted Klopp and grows her own in the adjacent Olivet Grange Vineyard. I liked both styles and but found the Klopp Thorn Ridge Ranch Pinot a bit more to my taste. The fruit was slightly bigger but all of her Pinots were well made with silky mouthfeel an a beautiful finish. Inman’s Pinots all sell at the $56 price point.

I liked Inman for her modest and practical approach to running a winery. She farms with sustainable methods, adds very little sulfite and only if necessary. She’s not interested in being certified, she’s interested in making wine the right way and taking care of the environment. She built her winery and small tasting room using totally recycled materials. She could have had the building certified for it’s unique use of materials, like recycled car steel, for the siding but again didn’t want to pay the thousands of dollars for certification. The point for Kathleen is simply to do things the right way.

Talking grapes and wine with Ted Klopp

Klopp was generous, knowledge, and funny during our two-hour afternoon visit. A native of the Midwest and Wabash College graduate spent most of his career in higher education at Marin College in California until changing lifestyles.

He bought the ranch north of Graton and inherited apple and pear trees. Neighbors, consultants and friends told him he would be ‘crazy’ if he didn’t plant vines. He took their advice and now supplies multiple wineries. He makes a little wine at home himself we sipped while sitting on a nice porch with a beautiful vineyard view.

Klopp loves that Merry Edwards comes by regularly to check the crop. He appreciates Inman’s questions about his farming practices.

I have enough material for stand alone newspaper columns on Klopp and Inman. I hope to have those up in the very near future.

Late in the afternoon we visited Arista Winery near the river and tasted through their very well done Pinot Noir. We didn’t think much  of the wine made from the Russian River Valley fruit but loved the Russian River valley line and one line made with grapes from Mendocino County.

Rochioli, an iconic name in California Pinot, was not disappointing though some might be a bit put off if they don’t know about the winery in advance. They make some of the best high end Pinot in the U.S. They only pour three wines in the tasting room. We tasted Chardonnay, a nice Pinot Rose’, and a single Pinot Noir. Most of their Pinot Noir wines are reserved for club members. It’s a club that has a long waiting list just to BUY their wines. It’s not Pinot for today or tomorrow – it’s a bottle you buy and put a way a couple of years to enjoy at it’s best.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

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Day Two: Barrel Making, Dry Creek, and Chateau St. Jean

08 Thursday Mar 2012

Posted by Howard in California, Napa/Sonoma, Videos

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Erik Miller, Sonoma, Tonnellerie Radoux



Toasting barrels at Radoux, Windsor, Ca.
SONOMA COUNTY, Ca. – Is there anything better for a wine geek than waking up on a Thursday morning knowing you’re going to spend the day in the Russian River Valley tasting Pinot Noir?
In planning for this trip I wanted to make a visit to Kokomo, Indiana’s Erik Miller. Erik is owner winemaker for Kokomo Vineyards in the Dry Creek region of Sonoma. We finally got together on a quick phone call and he invite Drew and I to join members of his Wine Club at a barrell making demonstration. Of all my wine experiences in the four years I’ve been wine writing, I’d never seen the process.
Master Cooper Francis Durand

I certainly came away from our visit to Tonnellerie Radoux, Windsor, with a new appreciation for those oak barrels. The variables in how coopers can mix the oak and watching the hand craftmanship was fascinating. That mixture of oak plays such an integral role in how the oak win interact with the wine for the final product.

Radoux’s Master Cooper Francis Durand led us through the plant demonstrating each step of the process. This will be a future newspaper column but really enhanced my knowledge of oak and it’s sophisticated role in winemaking.

After the hour-and-a-half tour, we hopped in the car and drove the 20 minutes up Ca. Highway 101 and Dry Creek Road to Kokomo Winery. Eric greeted us with fourth-generation vineyard owner and manager Randy Peters.

There is no better education than walking the vineyards with the grower and winemaker for those who really want to know more about wine. We visited several blocks of the vineyards at the winery, talked about the dry Sonoma winter, pending bud break, and all of the things to get a wine geek all geeky.

Chatting with Erik Miller, Gary Peters at Kokomo Winery

In the tasting room Drew and I enjoyed the Sauvignon Blanc, a Cab, a really nice Pinot Noir made from Gary’s grapes near the Sonoma Coast, and two Zins. The 2009 TimberCrest Zin was one of nicest I’ve tasted in a long time. Dry Creek is known for its Zinfandel. But the area can also grow almost any varietal, it’s that variety that intriques Miller.

We had a great chat with Erik and Randy which will turn up in a future newspaper column or two.

And yes, for those who don’t know, Erik did name his winery after his hometown of Kokomo, Indiana.

Our final stop of the day was a hastily arranged visit to one of Sonoma’s best, Chateau St. Jean located betweent he cities of Sonoma and Santa Rosa on CA. 12.

The manicured vineyards of Chateau St. Jean

Our friend and host Stephen Pavy, Joseph Phelps Winery, put in a call to the St. Jean tasting room and a couple of tasting room hosts led us through a really nice tasting of their reserve wines. Newbies need to know or keep in mind even wineries like Chateau St. Jean, which is available in Indiana and all 50 states make premium wines with limited distribution or available only at the winery.

We tasted a great Pinot Gris, two Chardonnays, a couple of Pinots, and their signature Bordeaux style blend Cinq Cepages 2008. The highlight for us was the Sonoma County Reserve Merlot ($90) and Sonoma Reserve Cabernet ($90). The Cabs in Sonoma are generally a little lighter than the Napa powerhouse Cabs. But the beautiful balance and silkiness of these wines would  please most any palate.

Chateau St. Jean is a great stop and any Sonoma trip should include a visit. The grounds are truly stunning. They have a tasting room for their other wines which range in the mid-teen to $20 pricepoint.

So it’s off to the Russian River Valley this morning.. We start our day with two of the grand ladies of California wine. Our first stop is at Merry Edwards and second at Inman Family wines. Kathleen Inman is going to pour for us her Pinot. Ted Klopp, a Wabash College grad, provide Pinot grapes from his ranch to both producers. We’ll see Ted this afternoon.

If we don’t run out of time, we hope to pay a visit to the iconic Rochioli Vineyards later today.

NOTES from the road: I do have many more wonderful  photos taken by Wabash College senior Drew Casey who is along with me on the trip. The loading times are taking forever! I did get all but one or two photos from Tuesday up this morning. Just click on the photo image at upper left and scroll down to Napa Day photos. I hope to get yesterday’s up this evening.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

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California’s Biggest Stars Shine Bright

07 Wednesday Mar 2012

Posted by Howard in California, Food & Travel, Napa/Sonoma

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Joseph Phelps, Robert Mondavi, Rutherford Hill Winery



Stephen Pavy, far right, with two of his hospitality staff and me, far left, at Joseph Phelps

NAPA VALLEY,Ca. – Brands, labels, and market awareness means someting in consumer goods. Usually such awareness is because of quality, longevity, or proven success.

We wash our clothes with Tide, buy Campbell’s soup, and eat Oscar Meyer cold cuts. We do it because these companies have consistently delivered high quality and reliable product.

I write those three sentences and realize I’m about to compare wine to bologna but there is some truth in the concept at least.

Today was our “Napa Valley” day and we made four winery stops. We stopped at V. Satui Winery in St. Helena, at Napa’s north end, and later in the day at the picturesque Rutherford Hill Winery along the Silverado Trail in Napa. They were very nice stops I’d recommend to any Napa visitor – first timer or veteran.

But the day was really stolen by the iconic brands – Mondavi and Joseph Phelps. When I travel to various wine regions I consistently find opinions I’ll share with readers here and my newspaper column. My opinions are shaped first by the wine but second, and nearly as important, by the people behind the tasting room counter. A great product keeps the customer coming back but when you visit in person the authentic smile, enthusiasm and product knowledge make it easier to spend the big  bucks on these iconic wines.

I always tell inquistors that the Robert Mondavi winery is a must stop. Mondavi had either the first or nearly the first tasting room in Napa Valley. He personally shaped the American wine industry and single-handedly made Napa the wine tourist destination it is today.

Visitors can opt for the $5 tasting of Mondavi’s lower end labels. I’ve written about those in a couple of newspapers columns and singled out the Private Selection label as a great value buy.

Mondavi’s gracious hostess, Sanda

But today I opted for the $30 premium tasting of six wines and was overwhelmed. A big part of the positive experience was Sanda Manuila, wine education coordinator, a Swiss native, and the most charming hostess you could ever have pour you $100-a-bottle wines.

We started with the Mondavi Fume Blanc Reserve. I’ve had the $20 bottle and loved it. This was my first chance to taste the $40 Reserve and its was simply fabulous with intense and rich fruit with just the right amount of acidity.

Sanda poured Drew and I a 2010 Pinot Noir sold only at the winery under the PNX label. It was rich fruit, nice acidity and beautiful balance.

We then worked our way through four of the Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve wines. Wow! Each one offered a different level of smooth but bold Cab taste and balance of acidity depending on the time spent in oak barrels. These wines are far beyond the price point I usually feature here or the newspaper column. But if you go to Napa, you owe it to yourself to taste these wines. The four we tasted ranged from $135-$165. These big Cab’s scream … ‘Classic Napa Valley Cabernet.”

Obviously, these wines aren’t for everyone and the price point may make readers just shake their head. Try the Mondavi Napa Cab for about $28 and you won’t be disappointed.

Joseph Phelps has become an iconic brand on the strength of its Insignia blend which has long been a critic’s favorite. It has been a 90-point-plus wine virtually every year since its initial release in 1974. The current release is a 2008 and comes at $200 a bottle. It’s the ultimate in luxiuous red wine from one of Napa’s top producers.

Drew and I were fortunate enough to be hosted by Indiana native and Phelps’ Director of Hospitality Stephen Pavy. Stephen turned us over to Geraldine for a wine seminar. If any place has a right to be a bit haughty, patronizing, or condescending, it’s might be Phelps. But Pavy’s staff was helpful, drew us into the wine conversations, answered questions and were quite frankly charming.

We tasted the Phelps $32 Sauvignon Blanc, Freestone Chardonnay and Pinot Noir before moving to their signature Cabernet. The 2009 Cabernet at $55 is one of the best I’ve tasted at the price point. Stephen actually treated us Monday night to the Cab before Tuesday’s visit to the winery. It has concentrated fruit with great back end acidity. This will shake some readers but I often refer to wines tasting above their price points. This $55 Cab tastes like a more expensive wine.

The tasting highlight though was the chance to sip the signature Insignia. The critically acclaimed wine scored off the charts with our palate but what would you expect from a  $200 bottle of wine? It definitely lives up to it’s reputation!

The Phelps name is synomous with Cabernet but not the huge producer some might think. The winery produces 55,000-60,000 cases of wine annually.

Our other two stops were great but frankly the service was more perfunctory than genuine – at least until I pulled out my wine writing business card. I don’t always do that until after I’ve tasted.

Now all of that being said, I’d recommend V. Satui in St. Helena to most visitors. It’s a very unique stop in that they don’t distribute their wines beyond the winery. That’s almost unheard of in Napa. The wines are all done in a lighter style and I thought the wines were good. The Gamay Rouge wasn’t to my taste but is Satui’s biggest seller. It has wonderful Gamay flavor and 1.5 percent residual sugar. That sweetness makes it a big hit with the tour bus crowd.

Rutherford Hill Winery has a beautiful facility, wine storage caves, and some great views of Napa. The wines were consistently okay with the highlight being their reserve Merlot. The 2007 Merlot was as good as any I’ve ever tasted, but as a Merlot skeptic I had to ask myself if I’d really fork over $57 for Merlot. Would you?

We had a really great day in wine country. Wednesday we start our day at a barrel maker with Eric Miller of Kokomo Winery. We intend to explore the town of Sonoma in the afternoon.

My travel companion Drew Casey has some marvelous photos from today’s adventure beyond the three I’ve included here. I hope to get those up Wednesday.

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Organic Wine Story Up on Palate Press,

01 Thursday Mar 2012

Posted by Howard in California, France

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organic wine, Palate Press, The Organic Wine Company

Palate Press has published my story about organic wines, organic wine regulations and reflections of French winemakers on the controversies.

The story went up overnight and will be on the site about one week. The piece was a result of my week-long visit to Montpellier, France, and the 19th annual Millesime Bio – organic wine trade show.

Here is a direct link to the story.

I also provided a quick summary of what I thought were the top wineries I tasted during the show. Unfortunately, due to space considerations that section was cut. Here is it below:

The opportunity to sample the wines of 587 growers was a unique three-day experience. Sometimes wine writers and other professionals forget consumers seldom get the opportunity so sample so many great wines. I went to the Millesime Bio on a press trip open minded but not knowing what to expect. While a certain number of wines were certainly sub-par and undistinguished, the vast majority were great wines. No consumer, nor few experts, would have any idea these are organic wines or feature substantially lower sulfite levels. Additionally, the Languedoc wines are generally great values.

Most of the labels mentioned below are imported to the U.S., but not all. Most of the sites have an “English option” but not all. A few of the best labels I tasted and consumers might seek out include: 

Joly

DomaineHYPERLINK “http://www.domainevirgilejoly.com/en/” HYPERLINK “http://www.domainevirgilejoly.com/en/”Joly – The wines of Virgile Joly were the most consistent I tasted. He is a rising star in the Languedoc and is a great spokesman for organic wines. For my palate, Joly’s 2011 Grenache Blanc was the top Languedoc white blend of the show. 

DomaineHYPERLINK “http://www.domaine.carlecourty.sitew.com/Fiche_Technique_de_nos_vins.G.htm” Carle HYPERLINK “http://www.domaine.carlecourty.sitew.com/Fiche_Technique_de_nos_vins.G.htm”Courty – Frederic Carle’s Cuvee Marion, named after his daughter, was the best red blend. It was a beautiful combination of 70 percent Syrah, 10 percent Grenache Noir, 10 Carignan, and 10 percent Mourvedre.

Cabanis

DomaineHYPERLINK “http://www.domainecabanis.com/domainecabanis_en.htm” HYPERLINK “http://www.domainecabanis.com/domainecabanis_en.htm”Cabanis – Jean Paul Cabanis poured his wines one evening at dinner. His property dates back to 1932, not old in Southern France but with a delightful history. He produces three reds, two whites and a Rose’.

Chateau de HYPERLINK “http://www.domainecabanis.com/domainecabanis_en.htm”Cazeneuve – The wines from this beautiful Chateau setting, near Montpellier, are more rustic than many I tasted and at a slightly higher price point. Andre Leenhardt’s 100 percent 2008 Mouvredre was a fabulous bottle of wine at 35 Euro.
Bojanowski

Clos Du HYPERLINK “http://www.closdugravillas.com/”Gravillas – John Bojanowski, a Louisville native, and his wife Nicole are championing Carignan at his St, Jean de Minervois region winery. He does a 100 percent bottling of the Southern France grape that is a knock out. 

A few more options include: Mas Janiny, wines from Terroirs Vivants, Mas Laval, Italys’ Perlage label, Chateau. Bonnet, and two more from Italy – Casina Di Cornia and Antica Enotria.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

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Grenache, Carignan Wine Grapes to Watch

28 Tuesday Feb 2012

Posted by Howard in California, France

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Grenache

Languedoc Vineyards in January

I always get a kick out of the next grape that’s going to take the world by storm! It’s always been fun among wine geeks to talk about such things though I’m not sure average wine drinkers really care.

Grenache is best known as the “G” in French Rhone Valley Cotes du Rhone GSM grapes. The other two would be Syrah and Mourvedre, for those who really care. I love Grenache and really love the Rhone varietals and blends driven by Grenache.

The Spanish call it Garnacha but it’s the same grape. California Central Coast wine makers, especially the Rhone Rangers, are growing lots of Grenache and it can be found in Sonoma as well.

Carignan is a very old varietal well known in Southern France or the Languedoc. Much of it has been discarded in recent years, but it seems to be making a comeback along with the Languedoc which is emerging as a great value wine region.

Once in a while I like posting news I read elsewhere for those who always want to learn more about wine. Here is a story from the UK’s Telegraph newspaper bout Carignan. And another story from the San Francisco Chronicle’s website about California Grenache! Read up!

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

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Quick Takes on Four Recent Wines

24 Friday Feb 2012

Posted by Howard in California, France

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Chateau Lamothe de Haux 2010 White Bordeaux, Frontenac, Mas Janiny, Tim Abel, Unusual Suspects, Wisconsin

When I review a wine on my blog site I always try to make sure it’s one readers can usually find. Or, it’s a new wine varietal or something special worth reading about.

That’s the case with this post with one unusual variety, a great white and two darn good reds.

Ledgestone Vineyards 2008 Frontenac – I discovered Frontenac during a spring 2011 trip to Northern Wisconsin. The grape varietal was pioneered by former University of Minnesota icon Elmer Swenson. Tim Abel makes one of the few 100 percent bottling I found in Wisconsin.

The big red wine features very pronounced sour cherry flavor that’s just wonderful. This is a big tannic wine. It not only needs some age in the bottle but a healthy decant before drinking.

Here is a blog entry I wrote the day I visited Ledgestone and met Tim. You may or may not find Ledgestone, probably quite difficult to find outside of Wisconsin. But if you come accross a 100 percent bottling of the cold climate Frontenac it’s definitely worth the investment.

Ledgestone Vineyards 2008 Frontenac, $28, Very Highly Recommended.

Chateau Lamothe de Haux 2010 White Bordeaux – I write a lot about red wines which taste at a quality level far above their price points. Here is a white French wine that does the same thing. This beautifully drinkable white is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. It’s smooth yet crisp with a tart lemon flavor.

I had the wine with a shrimp and pasta dish – a perfect pairing. If you can’t find this particular label, just seek out a White Bordeaux. It’s one of the great value wines coming from the world’s most prestigious wine region.

Chateau Lamothe de Haux White Bordeaux, $12.99, Highly Recommended.

The other two wines are quicky recommendations. Mas Janiny Cabernet Sauvignon is a light bodied Cab from the Launguedoc from organic grapes. This a smooth drinking Cab that is excellent for new wine drinkers or those who just don’t want to be clobbered by the King of Grapes. $24,99, Recommended, available from The Organic Wine Company.

Unusual Suspects 2007 Red Blend – This Lodi Californa wine is a great value buy. I have written about it before but liked it even more on the second bottle. Think dark cherries and spice and a delightfully easy-to-drink red for under $25. The wine is made from  55 percent Carignan, 35 percent Tempranillo and 10 percent Grenache. It’s a real tasty, spicy value wine.

Send questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

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Two Great Reds: An Italian Value & California Bargain

14 Tuesday Feb 2012

Posted by Howard in California, Italy, Napa/Sonoma

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Arnaldo Caprai, Montefalco Rosso, Private Selection, Robert Mondavi

Any time you can find a special-occasion wine for $20 and a real value for $11 it’s been a good week.

I have received several trade samples of Arnaldo Caprai’s Italian wines and finally got around to opening one over the weekend. I think it has great value for $20. The other trade sample I opened Sunday night was a Meritage from Robert Mondavi. It was equally surprising and wonderful.

Arnaldo Caprai 2009 Montefalco Rosso DOC – Here is an affordable wine that value drinkers can designate for a special occasion. The wine is 70 percent Sangiovese (same as Chianti), 15 percent Sagrantino (found only in Umbria), and 15 percent Merlot. The Montefalco region is south of Perugia in Umbria.

When I first opened the bottle I thought it was nice enough, though a little light. It was well balanced but rather unremarkable. But wait, after an hour or more of breathing the dark rich fruit opened up, maybe a little sour cherry, and as smooth and rich as Italian wines at this price point can be found.

The wine had a dry and lingering finish I really enjoy. I had the Montefalco with some pretty simple pasta but I could also see it with uncomplicated beef dishes. And the mouth feel is light enough to enjoy with cheese. How about some Parmesan Reggiano drizzled with balsimic vinegar? Yummy!

I almost always check out wines on consumer review sites after I’ve scribbled down my notes and thoughts. I often go to sites like Cellartracker and others. I was amused to find this wine rated from 83 points to 91 points. I certainly would be much closer to the 91.

Arnaldo Caprai is known for his work with Sagrantino. I have two bottles at home, both samples, and plan to open one as early as this weekend. It’s something of a rare grape so it is at a price point much higher than the Montefalco. I can’t wait to try that one if the Rosso is any example of the style of winemaking.

Arnaldo Caprai 2009 Montefalco Rosso DOC, Avg U.S. Price: $19, Trade Sample, Highly Recommended 

Robert Mondavi Private Selection Meritage – I’ve tasted several wines from the Mondavi “Private Selection” label over the past year and been impressed almost every time. This is Mondavi’s entry level or call them ‘supermarket’ wines if you wish. If only all supermarket wines offered the Mondavi consistency and winemaking effort!

The 2010 Meritage is a blend of 42 percent Cabernet, 30 percent Merlot, 20 percent Malbec, and 8 percent Petit Verdo. The grapes come from Monterey County, instead of Napa, off California’s Central Coash.

It’s easy to call this a traditional Bordeaux blend as you can read from the grapes above. Nothing will knock you out about this wine but it’s availability, price, and nicely balanced structure makes it a top choice of the grocery or liquor store shelf.

The most frequently asked question here and through my other wine writing is about good wines at a grocery price – the Mondavi Private Selection is good as any. Now, there are others and that’s for another time and day but the Meritage is a very nice red blend that comes across soft, drinkable, and affordable. And my experience with wines at this price point and target audience is that you’ll often find them below the suggested retail price.

Robert Mondavi 2010 Meritage,  SRP $11, Trade Sample, Recommended

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

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Indiana Scores at S.F. Chronicle Wine Contest

19 Thursday Jan 2012

Posted by Howard in California, Indiana

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Easley Winery, San Francisco Chronicle

It’s always great news when Midwestern wineries can enter the really big wine competitions and come home with honors.

Mark Easley, who runs the family-owned Easley Winery in downtown Indianapolis, has to be elated! He buys some of those great Michigan Riesling grapes and makes a Riesling that just won a gold medal at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition.

Congratulations to Mark for being a part of the ever-growing movement to improve Hoosier state wines!

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

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Concannon Celebrating Its History with Petite Sirah

22 Wednesday Jun 2011

Posted by Howard in California

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Concannon, Petite Sirah

There’s nothing better than a glass of wine with a great background story. Concannon of Livermore, Ca., offers both to consumers with an eye on the environment and great wine.

The Concannon family arrived in California in 1883 and has been operating continuously by the ensuing generations down to John Concannon today. John’s father Jim Concannon is a California wine pioneer. Jim is also widely credited for America’s first 100 percent Petit Sirah.

“This is our flagship wine,” John Concannon said during a recent Indianapolis visit. “My father was the first to make Petit Sirah in 1961 as a varietal. For years before, it was a blending grape used in Burgundy. We’ve actually trademarked ‘America’s first Petit Sirah.’ So, we’re celebrating 50 years.”

Besides the bold, rich Petit Sirah, Concannon is also known for helping lead a conservancy movement in the Livermore region, which is just east of San Francisco. Concannon and other area vintners have placed their vineyards in an independent trust that assures urban sprawl will never take over the historic area’s farm ground.

Concannon makes four wines, soon to add a fifth, from the Conservancy properties – Cabernet, Merlot, Petit Sirah, and Chardonnay. They retail at $15 and represent some of the best value varietals you’ll find at the price point.

But Concannon is best known for the small purple grape with all the big flavor. “This is actually a very sacred process how we make our Petit Sirah,” Concannon said. “We harvest the fruit at night, let it cool down, we bring it in and throw it on the sorting table. We sort out the berries, throw them through the rubber impalers and release the juice. We add some yeast and we’re making wine like the Egyptians did.”

The grape can be difficult to work with for a 100 percent varietal wine. “This wine is a little devil,” Concannon said. “What we’ve learned in 50 years it’s all about controlling the oxidation rate. During the first six months we lock it down in stainless steel and then the next six months we’re putting it in American oak, medium toast (that’s our spice rack). This is where the old school winemaking comes in because during the last six months we’re putting the wine in these 55-year-old vertical, upright barrels. They are French oak from Bordeaux. The wood is inert so it’s not giving off any flavor but the porousness of the wood accelerates the oxidation rate, speeding up the aging process. That gives it a nice soft mid-palate.”

The end result of all that hand crafting is a wine that’s anything but petite. “This wine is the St. Bernard that wants to sit in your lap,” John laughed. “It’s a very friendly wine but it’s big.”

And while many people shy away from big red wines it’s easy to recommend Concannon’s version because of the roundness. Concannon shared recent A.C. Nielson statistics showing Petit Sirah as the second-fastest growing varietal in California behind Pinot Noir.

He suggests pairing the wine with any food that has spice or pepper along with steak, barbeque, or Asian food. “If you have heat in the meal, bring it on. This wine can keep up with it.”

I love this wine with a nice charred steak.

Howard’s Picks:

Concannon Conservancy wines

– At $15 each, you can’t go wrong with these wines distributed in all 50 states. The Cabernet and Petit Sirah are big flavored wines with a nice smooth mid palate and finish. The Merlot shocked me with its hint of spice. The Chardonnay doesn’t clobber you with oak. These are great wines. Concannon is about to release a new addition to its Conservancy lineup – “Crimson and Clover” to honor Jim Concannon. The crimson stands for the red wines and clover for the family’s Irish heritage. The red blend is expected in stores later this year.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

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