Two Really Great Red Wines

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It’s a long way from Paso Robles to Southern France but catching up with wine reviews takes us from the west coast to the languedoc. It’s worth the trip no matter which direction you travel.

derby-wine-estates-implico-bordeaux-blend-paso-robles-usa-10505904Derby Wine Estates 2007 Implico – This is a wonderful Paso Robles blend of 61 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 18 percent Merlot, 15 percent Cabernet Franc and 6 percent Petit Verdot.

Small production, oak aged, and a beautiful representation of California’s fastest growing wine region is just a good start. I really liked this wine.

It was big, rich, and everything I want from California wine. It had red fruit and the leather/tobacco components of delightful big red wine. There is a delightfuly hint of vanilla from the oak aging. It had muscle without being overpowering.

This wine would work with beef or hearty winter stews.

Derbu 2007 Implico – This vintage is largely sold out. The last few vintages are sold out. The 2010 is available at $32. I’d call it a bargain at the price. Highly Recommended!

domaine-gilles-troullier-l-imprevue-vin-de-pays-des-cotes-catalanes-france-10441249 - CopyDomaine Gilles Troulilier 2006 – This is a Grenache-based wine that has the earthiness to make you think you’re drinking a blend with Carignan. That’s for the real Languedoc geeks out there. I’ll admit, I thought I was drinking the ancient, Southern France Carignan but what I learned about the wine is it is Grenache.

If you like earthy and big you’ll just love this wine. The 2006 is quite drinkable but would clearly age well.

Domaine Gilles 2006 Troulilier – I bought this on a flash site but can retail for up to $40. It’s a great, great representation of southern France wines. Highly Recommended.

I Really Shouldn’t Like This Wine

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Wine writers, regular wine drinkers, geeks, enthusiasts and drunkards know there are bottles that just are not going to be likable.

Or another way of putting it would be bottles you’re not “supposed” to like. You know those wines — not much going on, little fruit, and no finish.

syrahLes Jamelles 2011 Syrah can be found in lots of wine shops, probably small markets and liquor stores. It’s cheap with an average price of $8-$12.

I checked CellarTracker and two reviews came in at 83-84. In today’s world that slightly above a kick in the head.

I jumped over to Snooth and saw it got three of five little wine glasses. I’m not sure what that means but I would guess “better than average.” Frankly, that’s generous.

There’s a bit of fruit and a very soft finish. It’s plain. It’s simple.

So, why did I like it? I liked it because it’s plain and there’s not much going on. I write that as I sit here sipping a wonderful Derby winery blend from Paso Robles. Cabernet, Merlot, and several other grapes. It’s layered, multiple fruits on the palate and a dynamite finish. But wow, that takes effort.

Every once in awhile something simple and uninteresting isn’t all that bad. I cleaned out the Les Jamelles over two nights and enjoyed it both times. I was eating light dinners so it just didn’t matter.

Not everything in your glass requires 4-5-6 adjectives to enjoy it. Sometimes plain and simple suffices! I’d give this wine a solid “Recommended!”

 

Affordable Bordeaux is Out There!

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There is an old saying among wine enthusiasts: ‘The more you drink wine, the more you gravitate toward the French.’

And if you haven’t heard that one, certainly you’ve read and heard people talk about expensive French Bordeaux wines. The 2010 Chateaux Margaux sells around $1,000 a bottle. I found it for a palty $985.

Grape Sense LogoSince the worldwide economic downturn five years ago, you may have even read Bordeaux winemakers and marketers have tried to sell U.S. consumers on the idea of affordable second and third label Bordeaux wines.

As the market for those $1,000 wines softened, Bordeaux’s winemakers realized there was money to be made in countries that had, to some degree, turned their backs on the expensive and often snooty French production houses.

When I visited Bordeaux in 2012 the buzz was about marketing and tourism in the lesser known estates. Bordeaux has embraced marketing and created a “Today’s Bordeaux” campaign that features 100 wines at a price point between $9-$55.

The campaign is in its eighth year but taken a higher profile in the U.S. in the last 12 months.

Photo courtesy Conseil Interprofessional du Vin de Bordeaux

Photo courtesy Conseil Interprofessional du Vin de Bordeaux

“Today’s Bordeaux brings together wines that are meant to be enjoyed during every occasion — and these value wines can be enjoyed by wine aficionados and novices every day or when they are entertaining their nearest and dearest during the holidays. The program, in its eighth year, is a proud reflection of Bordeaux’s diverse terroir and vibrant and distinct appellations,” as stated in a Creative Feed release. The New York firm is marketing the campaign in the U.S.

The campaign is targeted on the northeast, west and interestingly Florida, Texas and the Midwest’s Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, and Michigan.

The wines were selected by a panel of nine judges featuring wine educators, buyers, sommeliers and wine press.

The real value in Bordeaux wines is Saint Emilion. Of course you can find good prices on other Bordeaux but Saint Emilion offers beautiful wines at a wide price range. These wines are always Merlot driven with other grapes added to balance the flavor profile. They tend to be round and full bodied. And if you haven’t enjoyed the French Merlot-driven wines, just forget everything you know about Merlot.

Value Bordeaux is really inexpensive when in the country.

Value Bordeaux is really inexpensive when in the country.

Merlot from France’s famed right bank of the Gironde River is extraordinarily rich, spicy and smooth. Many of the wines can be consumed immediately or cellared for a long time.

Ask you retailer about “Today’s Bordeaux” and seek out a few recommendations. The wines range from $9-$55.

Howard’s Picks:

Chateau Lyonnat 2009, Price Range: $20-$29: Pure Saint Emilion with 90 percent Merlot and 10 percent Cabernet. The finish wasn’t particularly long on this wine but it would be good as a sipper or a light meal.

Chateau Phelan Segur 2010, Price Range: $20-$29: This was certainly a much bigger wine as one would expect from the left bank. It was a 51-49 blend of Cabernet-Merlot with big flavor, noticable oak, and a longer finish.

Chateau Recougne, 2009, Price Range: $10-$19: This is a Bordeaux Superior which is the largest classification in Bordeaux and produces 55 percent of all the Bordeaux consumed around the globe. The wines are often quite a bargain. This particular wine certainly had a fresh palate from its 75 percent Merlot, 15 percent Cabernet, and 10 percent Cabernet Franc blend. This one has been honored numerous times in French wine competitions for its price point.

Friends, Wine – Doesn’t Get Better

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DudesI’ve written and even posted video of my Wine Dude friends from time to time over the past few years. Jobs and spouse’s jobs have broken up the band a bit. But over the weekend we had three of the original five guys together, one newbie – and two youngsters! (of age, of course!).

We tasted our way through several wines.

cultivateCultivate Dream Walker 2010 Chardonnay – This is a blend of Chards from Mendocino, Central Coast and Napa. It was a little higher on the alcohol side at 14.1 percent with a suggested retail of $17.99. (Trade Sample)

The guys ended up liking this wine quite a bit. There was a stronger hint of oak on the nose than the palate – and that pleased most of our six-man group. One of the guys said, “There’s a small taste of the oak but you can still taste the mineral.” I thought that description was spot on. Another of the guys also may have hit the nail on the head from a different point of view.

“This is a wine that doesn’t know what it wants to be.” In a way, they both had it right. But the wine won in the end because all six of us liked the Chard.

B_Vignoles-crop - CopyHuber Winery’s 2012 Indiana Uplands Vignoles – This was the Indy International Wine Competition’s top wine beating out more than 2,500 entries from nearly 40 states and 13 countries.

Ted Huber’s award-winning Vignoles fools a lot of people with its incredibly bright fruit. This group is pretty uber-sensitive to sweetness. A couple guys argued it was too sweet. But I cautioned them to judge the wine on the third or fourth sip. They then admitted it was not as sweet tasting as they first thought.

Words like “honeysuckle, pear, and honey dew melon” were some of the descriptors. I like this wine a lot. I get a hint of fall spice among all that fruit that I love. At $14.99 a bottle, it’s a great, great Hoosier white wine.

creekbend_chambourcin11 - CopyOliver’s Creekbend 2010 Chambourcin – This is a grape grown throughout Indiana that can make great wine. It can also make musty, skanky crap.

Fortunately, Bill Oliver – best known for sweet Oliver Red and Oliver White found in more than 30 US states – has a great vineyard and makes some great wines he often gets little credit for under the avalanche of the winery’s flagship bottles. When harvested right and handled properly this a rich red wine with an earthiness that is somewhat reminiscent of a nice Pinot Noir. It has red raspberry but also hints of dark cherry.

One of the guys found a hint of caramel on the nose and I couldn’t argue. “It’s balanced and round. It’s got a solid nose. It’s a bit like a Cab Franc but more mellow – and without the nasty back end.”

I poured the Chambourcin blind without telling the guys a thing. They all liked it quite a bit. A couple of the guys loved it. When I told them it was $22 – they thought that was about right for a Hoosier wine of this quality.

Yes, we sit about being THAT wine geeky!

I’ve found Oliver, Huber, Buck Creek, and Turtle Run to all make really nice Chambourcin. There may be other but these four do it right. SRP $22.

One of the better palates of our group said, “I like the idea that two or three Indiana winemakers who say they’re going to take an Indiana grape and make a world class wine.”

2008-panther-creek-freed-18904-736z - CopyPanther Creek 2008 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, Freedom Hill Vineyard – This bargain found on several of the sales flash sites is really solid Pinot.

The nose and palate features typcial strawberry, caramel and dark cherry, floral hints and nice balance for an Oregon Pinot. A couple of us thought the wine lacked when it came to fruit. It was well balanced but just didn’t bring enough sense of barnyard stink – or terroir – of most Oregon Pinot.

This wine retails for $40 but has been features on several of the flash sites for $40. For my money, it’s not $40 Pinot but at $19.99 its a great buy.

kokomoKokomo Vineyards 2009 Zinfandel, Timber Crest Vineyards – I had saved this bottle of wine for a special occasion. I had carried it back from Sonoma a couple of years ago.

I had had a great visit with Erik Miller, owner/winemaker, and his vineyard manager Randy Peters. We tasted through several wines in the tasting room and I was really taken by this Zinfandel. Randy grows the grapes.

The guys loved it. It’s a big rich Zin without being as over-powering as many. The balance was nice with a silky mouth feel. This is a small production, winemaker’s designate wine that you might not find. To top it off, I couldn’t not find a price online and don’t remember what I paid for it. It was in the $40-$50 range, as I recall.

It’s great wine. So the lesson on this one – sometimes vineyard designate, winemaker’s reserve and such labels mean something. This bottle of wine proved that.

Incredible Michigan Vineyard Views

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Friend Tony Lentych, GM at Leelanau Cellars Winery in Northern Michigan recently posted this video on Facebook. It’s a stunning aerial view of the winery’s vineyards atop a hill with views of the lake.

I visited Michigan wine country in 2010 and came away really impressed by the wine and winemakers. It’s also beautiful country to visit and vacation near even it wasn’t for the wine.

Here is a story I wrote for Palate Press about Michigan wine. And the link at the top of this page is an overview of a few of the wineries I visited during that trip.

Tony has invited me back up to Michigan for a spring tasting event of the latest vintage. I hope to make that trip and learn more about Michigan wine.

Not All Celeb Wine is Scary

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winery MontageFall is wine shipping season. That means if you buy wine online or direct from a winery several states away, now is the time to get it shipped to your wine rack at home.

Grape Sense LogoThat also means it’s wine “sample” time for wine media. Yes, wineries and marketing firms ship wine to wine writers hoping they write about their product.

Several packages have arrived already this fall with a ‘wine for the holidays’ theme. Over the next couple of months let’s take a look at the stories and wines which seem worthy of your wine dollar.

There are plenty of celebrity wines on the market and, all too often, when you see the name of a musician, athlete, movie star you should run. But there are exceptions. Baseball great Tom Seaver makes great cabernet, Mario Andretti’s Napa wines are reasonably priced and worth your money. It would take the entire column to run all the celebrities who own wineries but the list includes: Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie, Mike Ditka, Francis Ford Coppola, Dan Akroyd, A.J. Foyt, Madonna, Charles Woodson, Greg Norman, Nancy Pelosi, Donald Trump, Tommy Smothers, Dick Vermeil, and Sting. And that’s just a few from a very long list.

Dave Matthews

Dave Matthews

Singer, songwriter, and musician Dave Matthews is also in on the rich-and-famous wine boom. Matthews is best known as lead vocalist for the Dave Matthews band. And for those who may not know, in the last decade he sold more tickets and earned more money than any other act in North America.

Matthews owns Blenheim Vineyards in Charlottesville, Virginia. The 46-year-old musician got involved in 2000 helping design the winery building. More recently, he wanted a California presence to make wine from sustainably farmed grapes and sell it with environmentally friendly packaging.

Like the other smart celebrity wine owners, he went out and found a great partner. Matthews teamed with Steve Reeder in early 2011 to form Dreaming Tree Wines. Reeder is VP and winemaker at Simi Winery, and previously winemaker at Chateau St. Jean, and Kendall-Jackson.

The Dreaming Tree label comes from a song title on the 1998 Mathews’ album “Before These Crowded Streets.”

Crush hi resBut the two are serious about their affordable and easily approachable wine. They’re also serious about sustainability. The wine bottles are half the weight of most, featuring sustainable cork and recycled paper for the labels. Just for fun, there is Matthews’ song lyrics printed on each closure.

So far they’ve produced five wines. Their red blend Crush, Cabernet, and two Chards – a central and north coast version – sell for $15. They also do a Central Coast reserve cabernet with a suggested retail of $35.

I tasted three of their wines. The best of the lot was the Crush red blend which is mostly Merlot with smaller amounts of Syrah and Zinfandel. It had a rich texture with hints of spice and was a nicely balanced glass of wine. I would recommend it to a novice or serious wine drinker at that price.

I was intrigued by the Everyday white blend for its complexity. It’s a blend of Gewurztraminer, Riesling, Albarino, and Viognier. I’ve never been a fan of the hugely floral Gewurztraminer nor Viognier. But the more I drank this wine the more I liked it. It’s not much of a food wine but a great sipper. I could see this as a big seller.

The Central Coast Cabernet just didn’t work for me. I didn’t like the fruit nor balance. The wines are widely available and be good value picks for the holidays at $15. The first two will please most palates and are better than many at that price point. It’s not unusual to find these wines around $12 in bigger retail outlets.

Greenhouse Tavern’s Pierogi Rocks!

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cork

CLEVELAND, OH. – For several years I’ve traveled to Cleveland for work and always eaten at Iron Chef Michael Symon’s signature “Lola” restaurant. Plans were the same for a trip this week until discovering there was no reservation available until 9:30 for our small group.

Chef Sawyer

Chef Sawyer

A year ago author/celebrity chef Michael Ruhlman, a Cleveland native, offered a recommendation during a visit to the College where I work. He suggested Chef Jonathon Sawyer’s Greenhouse Tavern which is about two doors down from Lola’s. We were able to get a more reasonable 8:15 reservation.

What a fun atmosphere, vibe or whatever you want to call it. The restaurant is hip and noisy. It has antique bicycles as wall decorations. The staff was attentive, though there was a bobble or two, and the food was amazing. Greenhouse Tavern was every bit as good as Lola’s – perhaps the city’s best known restaurant.

Our small group loved almost every single bite. We shared tastes from each plate and the wows were plentiful.

1The biggest wows came from the evening’s appetizer special. It was a blood sausage stuffed Pierogi with shredded elk meat on top lightly seasoned with ginger. It was alternately sweet and then tangy. The elk was tender and the Pierogi cooked perfectly. The balance created between the sweet sausage and the savory elk was as nice as any appetizer I’ve had in any restaurant. A couple more of those would have made a delightful meal.

2I had our waitress’s favorite entree the pork chop – or – Pan Pried Pork Saltinbocca with sage, country ham, pomme puree, and scrapple with red eye gravy. It was a pork lovers’ wallow in a muddy pen.

It featured an incredibly tender rib with a healthy portion of pork fat that just fell off the bone. The scrapple was savory, spicy, and a perfect ying to the sweet pork yang going on elsewhere on the plate. There were multiple slices of tenderloin cooked wonderfully pink – and wrapped in country ham.

The genius of the dish was the scrabble. The small disk was crispy which added texture and had a tartness of sorts that balanced all that sweet, yummy pork.

A bottle of Les Mas de Collines Gigondas paired perfectly with the appetizer and entrée.  The wine was very balanced, earthy, spicy and had a marvelous and long-lasting finish with just the right tannin structure for a great meal. The wine retails at $25-$28 but, of course, was $62 on the Greenhouse menu.

The wine selection was extensive with a big emphasis on French wines. There was a substantial and pricey Rhone list as well as Bordeaux and Burgundy.

The obligatory dark chocolate dessert was good if not great. Wonderful French-pressed decaf coffee topped off the evening. Prices were reasonable for a restaurant of this quality. My entree was $24. The appetizers ranged $11-$20. Entrée selections went from $21-$45.

Any trip to Cleveland should include a visit to Symon’s Lola’s – but now I can say – “Or, Greenhouse Tavern.”

Celebrity Wine: Some Good, Some Bad

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What do these people have in common?

winery MontageThe 131st Grape Sense wine column is about celebrity wine! All of these folks – and many more celebs – own wineries. Can you name all of the wine owners in this pic? It’s a pretty easy list, really.

I’ll post the column over the weekend … and answer the quiz. How many can you identify. Lots of familiar faces!

Great French Good Neighbor Story

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A great story has long been an awesome ingredient to generating sales and good will. Often we Midwesterner’s think we have the market cornered on those feel-good, helping-the-neighbor out stories that move people – if not product.

Grape Sense LogoBut the more you see the world, you come to realize most of us are alike whether we’re from Illinois, Michigan, France, Spain or even Indiana. The story shared here has been repeated throughout the wine world but probably new to most outside that geeky little corner of the universe.

A tremendous hail storm hit Southern France July 1, 2012. The ferocity of the storm destroyed 62 acres of vines at Chateau de Roquefort owned by Raimond de Villeneuve. The storm lasted just seven minutes but devastated his 2012 crop and is expected to cut his 2013 harvest by nearly half.

Hail insurance is pretty rare in grape growing country, particularly in Provence near the Mediterranean Sea. Local growers called the storm a once in every-50-years event.

Raimond Villeneuve

Raimond Villeneuve

‘It all began at about 7 o’clock in the evening with an unexpected hailstorm of barbaric violence,” Villeneuve is widely reported detaling. “In a mere 7 minutes this wall of ice completely devastated everything growing in the vineyard … not a leaf or a single bunch remained; nothing survived the bombardment. I can still see myself running backwards and forwards through the vines, up to my knees at times in streams of hailstones, petrified, blue with cold. Shrouds of white mist were rising from the tons of ice lying on the still warm ground. When I had completed the tour of our 24 hectare of vines, I knew there wouldn’t be the faintest chance of harvesting anything. I knew that time would be required for the vines to recover from such a severe onslaught; I felt like somebody shipwrecked in the middle of nowhere!”

But then, much like any Midwestern farm field, Villeneuve’s neighbors arrived. Or more accurately, friends and neighbors from across Provence came to his rescue. Owners from 35 different estates, including some of the smallest and most prominent, offered up fruit so Chateau de Roquefort would have a 2012 production.

So Villeneuve, with the help, decided to make three wines – a red, white and rosé which they would call a “special anti-hail solidarity” cuvée. And they decided to call the wines GRÊLE, which in English means “hail.”

GreleWineEven more impressive than the solidarity of the winemakers, was the notoriously strict French winemaking governing bodies allowing the wine to be made. France has more legislation detailing what you can grow, where you can grow it, and how it goes into the bottle than most other countries combined. The Grenache, Mourvèdre, Carignan, Syrah, Cabernet, Cinsault, and more came from all over Provence and different appelations. That’s why the wine is simply called a cuvee.

Many others pitched in and provided needed help such as refrigeration trucks to move the donated grapes.

“This adventure still seems almost surreal today, and I think it will take me quite a while to appreciate what has actually happened over these last few months,” Villeneuve recently told the French press.

And by the way, the rosé is pretty terrific. The unique label with the names of the Domaines is distinctive as the wine. As a huge Provence fan, I was skeptical until the first taste. It’s a bit less crisp or acidic than many Rosé wines but has a very rich mouth feel. At $14-$16 is a great wine buy and and even better story.

Small Wooster Bistro Outstanding

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South Market BistroWOOSTER, Oh. – You don’t expect to find great farm-to-fork restaurant food in a small northeast Ohio town best known for its household kitchen containers and paint brushes! But South Market Bistro in Wooster, home of Rubbermaid and Wooster Paint Brushes, holds up to many big city eateries.

Visiting Wooster for the paying job tomorrow, our small traveling group sought out good eats and selected South Market Bistro. In a word: it ROCKS!

scallops

I started with two sea scallops, tasting very fresh for land-locked NE Ohio, lying in a bed of bacon cream sauce and topped with crispy leeks! The scallops were cooked perfectly, the leaks very crispy and tasty, and the sauce uber-savory without clobbering the palate with bacon goodness.

The house salad featured spinach and bean sprouts and was not particularly remarkable but very tasty, fresh, and enjoyable.

EntreeI had the “Porky-Pork” entree which really lived up to its name. Chef Erik Roth starts with a pork tenderloin and wraps it in bacon with an applewood-smoked flavor. It’s drenched in an apple cider reduction. The flavors are absolutely delicious. I would have liked a little more seasoning – simple salt or pepper to balance the sweetness of the reduction – but it was cooked to perfection.

The sides were braised red cabbage (excellent!), local spinach, and sweet potato gratin. The sides were prefect. The cabbage was tangy, the spinach fresh, the sweet potato needed a little zest but the three complements worked well.

We skipped dessert for a wine bar down the street but the dessert menu looked great.

The restaurant had an affordable and extensive wine list. I counted 18 whites and 22 red wines available at very affordable restaurant prices. While some markups were 100 percent (often the norm in upscale locations) many were just 50 percent on the upper end.

We had a bottle of Fess Parker 2010 Syrah. This wine is an entry level central California Coast Syrah that sells around $20. We paid $38 and really enjoyed it.

The wine had big fruit but stayed smooth over the palate and lingered on the finish. I have long been familiar with the Fess Parker label but this was my first tasting. I came away favorably impressed for a $20 (retail) wine.

The list had selections on the white side ranging form $29-$79 and reds from $39-$80. Cellar selections included names like Silver Oak and Far Nientte at $135-$165.

Overall, its hard to imagine a better restaurant in a town of 26,000 people. The two aforementioned industries are located here along with the College of Wooster – a small liberal arts college of slightly more than 2,000 students.

If you EVER have reason to pass through Wooster, eat here.

somar wineWe capped our evening at SoMar Wine Cellars just down the street. We bought a bottle of entry level Argyle Pinot Noir for $26 that normally sells just under $20. It’s a beautiful setting with a gorgeous patio featuring a gas fire pit. A small plate of cheese was a nice complement but not chocolate! 😦

Again, for a town this size it was a rather amazing place.

All in all, a really nice Friday night before a long Saturday of work!