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Howard W. Hewitt

~ … The "W" stands for wine!

Howard W. Hewitt

Category Archives: France

Off to France for Bordeaux Fete le Vin

26 Tuesday Jun 2012

Posted by Howard in Food & Travel, France

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Bordeaux, Fete le Vin

I’m off to France Tuesday to visit the world’s most famous wine region, Bordeaux.

An invitation arrived just a few weeks ago to join a press contingent of about 15 worldwide journalists as guests of the CIVB, or Bordeaux’s wine council. The group represents about 10,000 Bordeaux wineries and negociants. And yes, in the sense of full disclosure, it’s important to note they pick up all expenses to bring journalists to the event.

Every other year, even numbered ones, Bordeaux celebrates its iconic wines with this festival.

Depending on what web site you wish to believe, the Fete le Vin will draw between 300,000-500,000 visitors this week.

Saying I’m excited is a big understatement. I really enjoyed a wine trip to Southern France earlier this year and it left me with a desire to learn more about French wines. I’m not sure whether to admit or admit with some embarrassment that of all the wine regions in the world Bordeaux presents the biggest challenge. I have certainly consumed some Bordeaux wines but not much. And my knowledge base of wine regions is the thinnest when it comes to France’s iconic Bordeaux.

The Garone River runs through the heart of Bordeaux.

We will be participants in the festival which features wineries from Bordeaux’s 80 appellations, a nightly light show and concert, and plenty of culinary specialities sure to tantatlize the taste buds.

A good portion of the trip seems to be devoted to shining a light on tourism.. Bordeaux certainly is no Napa when it comes to welcoming the outside world. I look at that as perhaps the most interesting story to come out of this visit. We’ll see.

I hope to be Tweeting throughout the day and will blog each night. I will try, as access and time permit.s, to put up a photo album on the blog each evening.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

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Fleur Cardinale is Great Introduction to Bordeaux

25 Monday Jun 2012

Posted by Howard in France

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Bordeaux, Fleur Cardinale, Saint Emilion

Through the years I’ve purchased and consumed a few bottles of Bordeaux. But it was always the lower end stuff and I’m not sure if I’d even purchased a Grand Cru.

I’m leaving for Bordeaux Tuesday for the Fete le Vin wine festival. So a week ago I thought picking up a decent bottle was a necessary step in preparation.

I was in Indy’s Kahn’s store on Keystone Ave. and Jim Arnold, the store owner, happened to come by and make comment about a bottle I was holding. I told him I was headed to Bordeaux and would be visiting the Saint Emilion region and wanted to buy a bottle.

He suggested the 2007 Fleur Cardinale Grand Cru at about $45. I opened it Sunday night with some big ol Cowboy Ribeyes and it was just fabulous.

Arnold suggested there are often great values in off-vintage years. Wine Spectator gave the ’07 vintage an 86 rating compared to the standout ’05’s  99 points. The 2006 was rated 89 points, the ’08 was up to 88 while the ’09 vintage scored a 96.

The wine shop owner suggested looking for an off-vintage wine that has gotten good reviews. The Fleur Cardinal scored a 90 from Robert Parker so that was good enough for me.

The wine was excellent with deep, dark fruit flavors, and really nicely balanced tannins. The wine was 75 percent Merlot, 15 percent Cabernet Franc, and 10 percent Cabernet. It was really elegant and silky wine perfect with the grilled ribeye. While $45 for a bottle is well above the price point I normally write about on Grape Sense, it’s fabulous wine for a special occasion.

Arnold sells more Cardinale by case than any other Bordeaux.

Fleur Cardinale 2007 Grand Cru, $45, Very Highly Recommended

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

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Summer Drinking – Two Whites & a Rose’

10 Sunday Jun 2012

Posted by Howard in California, France, Paso Robles & Mendocino

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Arona, Clayhouse, France, Gerard Bertrand, New Zealand, Paso Robles, Rose'

Summer time is lighter wine time for most of us and I’ve definitely been going down that path in recent weeks.

The more wine I’ve consumed in recent years, the more I’ve come to appreciate really well-made whites. I might argue the learning curve is accelerated because of the red wine dominance on my wine rack. Many will disagree, but for me it’s a little easier to identify the characteristics of red wine. White and Rose’ is more nuanced.

Enough of the geeky stuff. Here are three easy-to-find wines I purchased in Central Indiana – all under $20.

Clayhouse Adobe White – The Adobe line of Clayhouse wines from California’s Paso Robles are really great value wines. I just received samples of the 2011 vintage with a couple bottles I’ve not previously sampled. These wines clearly taste above the price point, are nicely balanced, and are available at great prices. The suggested retail on the entire line is $14 or $15.

The tasty blend is 49 percent Viognier, 26 percent Sauvignon Blanc, 19 percent Grenache Blanc, and 6 percent Princess. Princess is often called a table grape and is said to resemble Muscat in flavor. It was a new one for me. I have found Viognier I’ve loved and hated – it’s very floral and fruity normally. I remember last year’s Adobe White and was put off just a bit by the Viognier. The 2011 blend is a perfect mix.

The wine has floral, identifiable orange, peach, and honey flavors. Portions of this wine are barrel fermented, but not aged, resulting in a real creamy feel on the palate. The alcohol comes in at 12.8 percent.

Simply, this is a great summer sipper or white for lighter meals.

Clayhouse Adobe White, SRP $14, Trade Sample, Highly Recommended

Arona 2010 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc – Sauv Blanc from New Zealand often takes a hit for the big acid, over-the-top fruit, and that ‘grassy thing” many wine drinkers don’t like.

Check out Arona Sauv Blanc if you are one of those folks. I tried this wine at a tasting conducted by Derek Gray of Graybull Wines. I loved it.

This wine is much lighter on the palate than many NZ Sauv Blancs. It still had the crisp acidity which would make it perfect for lighter seafood dishes, particularly white fish. Think passion fruit, pineapple, and aroma-pleasing citrus.

If you like NZ and California Sauvignon Blanc but want a bit lighter mouth feel, grab a bottle of Arona.

Arona 2010 Sauvignon Blanc, $13.99, I bought this wine at Mass. Ave. Wine Shop in Indy. Highly Recommended.


Gerard Bertrand 2010 Gris Blanc Rose’ – I’ve been on a real Rose’ kick and this one is different as they come. First, Gerard Bertand is one of the most respected winemakers in Southern France. His wines offer great value for the price point.

This wine is a blend of Grenache Blanc and Grenache Gris. Most notably, is the very – very pale – salmon color often associated with Provence’s fine Rose’ wines.

I got peach and maybe hint of a red raspberry. The wine is lighter on the palate than many but it does have pretty serious acidity. It’s also seriously dry Rose’. It would be another choice for white fish, shell fish, or a summer salad.

I picked up this unique Rose’ at Vine and Table in Carmel.

Gerard Bertrand 2010 Gris Blanc Rose, $13.99, Recommended.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

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Not Your Granny’s Pink Wine Any More

04 Monday Jun 2012

Posted by Howard in France, Newspaper Column 2012

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Bieler Pere et Fils Rosé, pink wine, Provence Rosé, Rose'

Those silly looking pink wines in your favorite wine shop or liquor store are gaining respect through robust sales. Rosé is perfect for the summer’s hot weather and sales are even hotter.

The numbers are staggering. Since 2009, overall consumption of Rosé wines has increased 160 percent.

Arguably, the best Rose’ in the world comes from Southern France. Exports of rose’ wine from the Provence region to the U.S. grew 62 percent in volume last year compared to 2010. Value of exports for the 2010-2011 period increased nearly 50 percent to a record high of nearly $10 million Euro.
The booming growth can be dated back to 2003 when Provence exported 146,000 liters of Rosé to the U.S. Last year that number easily passed 1.7 million liters.
Bethann Kendall, Vine and Table

But the U.S. isn’t the only major importer of the salmon-pink Rosé wines. Sales have also increased significantly in Brazil, Russia and other countries.

“What we’re seeing in the U.S. market reflects a global trend,” said Julie Peterson of the Vins de Provence U.S. office, which provided the statistics above. “Those who appreciate great wine and the Mediterranean lifestyle are turning to Provence rosé for its versatility, food friendliness, and gold standard quality.”

Midwestern wine retailers have also noticed the explosion in growth.

“Rosé sales increase more and more very year,” said Bethann Kendall, wine buyer at Vine and Table, Carmel, IN. “Last year was probably almost three times more than what I sold my first year here.  And right now, in May, I’ve already sold more than what I sold all of last year. It’s looking great. It’s going to be a huge increase probably 15-20 percent.”

Provence Rosé is made from a blend of basically six grapes. Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, Mourvedre, Tibouren, and Carignan can be found in Provence’s signature wine. But around the world you can find Rose made from just about any grape varietal imaginable. Oregon, home of some of the U.S.’s best Pinot Noir, makes great Rosé of Pinot Noir wines.
For years “pink wine” was soiled in reputation by white zinfandel but no more. “I think there is still a huge misconception on Rose but we taste it every Saturday,” Kendall said. “I’m always opening a bottle to try to sway people in the right direction. It’s not all sweet. I tell them if they don’t like Provence Rose they’re just not going to like it from any region at all.”
Howard’s Picks:
2011 Bieler Pere et Fils Rosé – Simply Unbelievable Provence for a miserly $11-$14. This dry delicious Rose is a blend of 50 percent Syrah, 30 percent Grenache, and 20 percent Cabernet. Bigger than some Rose’ but the cranberry color and wonderful taste of red raspberry makes it a real must buy. “I was excited to finally get it into Indiana,” Kendall said. “It sells out every vintage and it’s just true to the area with very beautiful strawberries and raspberries and a nice chalky texture which comes from the soils of Provence.
2011 Mas de Gourgonnier – Cherry and classic Rosé strawberry with hints of spice make this Rose a real treat for around $15. While a little lighter in style than the Bieler, it’s equally dry. This wine is 60 percent Grenache (my favorite) with a 40 percent blend of Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault, and Cabernet. This is a perfect hot weather wine and gorgeous pairing for lighter foods.
More choices: Chateau Revelette Provence Rose’ (Wine critics: 89-90 Points and the best I’ve tasted this year); Acrobat Oregon Pinot Noir Rosé, $15; and closer to home Butler Winery’s Rosé of Chambourcin, $14-$15.

POSTSCRIPT: Rose has been in the news a lot lately. Here are some links to additional stories about Rose.

From SFGate, San Francisco, another from the San Francisco Chronicle, from the Cleveland Plain-Dealer, the Los Angeles Times, the Chicago Tribune,  

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

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Early Winner: Wonderful, Light Provence Dry Rose

22 Tuesday May 2012

Posted by Howard in France

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Chateau 2010 Revelette Coteaux d'Aix en Provence, Rose'

For some time I’ve been trying to group my wine reviews but once in awhile a wine comes along that demands immediate attention and sharing.

I’ve started into my annual summer obsession with dry rose’ and, in particular, Provence Dry Rose.

Tonight I opened a beauty! Chateau 2010 Revelette Coteaux d’Aix en Provence has that incredible light salmon color that is the calling card for Southern France.

The genius in wine making from German winemaker Peter Fischer is using largely Cabernet and Syrah to create one of the lighter and most delicious Rose’ wines you’ll find under $20.

Despite the lighter feel on the palate the Revelette is a complex wine that is herbal, floral, and has a soft lingering finish.

I have some Rose’ stashed away with higher price points but this beauty is the early summer Rose’ champ!

Stephen Tanzer gave this wine 91 points. Wine Spectator rated it at 88. I just recommend but I’d be closer to Tanzer’s rating.

Chateau 2010 Revelette Coteaux d’Aix en Provence, 2010 vintage found at $13, 2011 vintage $17, Very Highly Recommended.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

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Long Road Louisville to Saint-Jean-de-Minervois

03 Thursday May 2012

Posted by Howard in France

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Clos du Gravillas, John Bojanowski, Saint-Jean-de-Minervois, Tastings

It’s a long path from Louisville, Ky., to Saint-Jean-de-Minervois in Southern France. But that’s the journey Brown University graduate John Bojanowski took in transformation from literature major to Languedoc winery owner.

Bojanowski was recently in Indianapolis to promote his Clos du Gravillas wines and visit family in Kentucky. His journey is an interesting one as is the unique Languedoc wine he champions.

The wine event was at Tastings in Indianapolis at the Conrad downtown.

Bojanowski attended prestigious Brown University in Providence, RI., and wanted to travel. He landed a job in the computer industry that took him to 50 countries in five years. During that time he met Nicole who wanted to be a winemaker. They went in search of just the right property to open their winery. 
John Bojanowski at Indy’s Tastings
“When my wife started she wanted white limestone gravel, which is what our soil is because you get freshness and minerality out of that to balance what the sun does to the grapes,” he explained. “But Carignan was what we started with because that’s what she was able to buy. “
Their property included Carignan planted in 1911. Carignan is an often-maligned grape. It is a dark-colored and strong flavored wine. Some will even call the nose offensive and the taste can be strong. But the old vine Carignans can produce deeply flavored and rich wines. Small amounts of Carignan is consistently found in most Languedoc blends.
“We discovered that Carignan could be more than just okay. It can be really, really good. We’ve made it our purpose to tell everybody about it.”
Clos du Gravillas is a small production winery featuring wines made from 15 different grapes. “So it’s sort of like being an artist with 15 different colors on the palette. We try to figure out what each of those grapes are best for and how we can make it the best wine.”
The Languedoc is the largest wine-producing region of France.
“The Languedoc is on the Mediterranean. It’s between the Rhone River and Spain. Our winery is three hours form Barcelona and six hours from Paris. It’s sunny, beautiful and rain free almost all summer. You find very different terrain when you go a half hour drive in any direction from sea to flatlands to plateaus to mountains. It’s a beautiful place and wine grapes have been grown there for 2,000 years.”
The warm weather, the region averages 315 days of sunshine a year, produces ripe fruit. “We pick the grapes ripe which means a certain amount of sugar, a certain amount of alcohol, so they’re not little wines. We practice very natural and organic farming and then natural non-interventionist winemaking, and fermentations.  We try not to do too much besides getting really great grapes, putting them into the tank and letting them become wine.”

Clos du Gravillas wines are available in some Indiana restaurants and fine wine shops. John’s wines are above the value price points usually featured in Grape Sense. His wines are in $30-$50 range.

Languedoc wines are widely available in the $12-$16 range. Finding a 100 percent Carignan isn’t impossible but could be difficult; it will be worth the effort.
Howard’s Picks:
Le Rendez Vous du Soleil 2007 – This is a nice extracted blend of Cabernet, Syrah, Mourvedre, Grenache, Counoise, Tannat, Terret Gris, and Carignan. This is big rich red wine that is beautifully balanced with big dark fruit. (SRP $42)
Lo Vielh Carignan 2007 – This is the real star in John’s stable and the supply alloted Indiana has already sold out. This is the 100 percent Carignan from vines planted more than 100 years ago. Its a big incredible wine that has a smoothness unlike many Carignan wines. It’s outstanding fine wine. ($25-35)

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

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Languedoc’s Virgile Joly Gaining Notice

23 Monday Apr 2012

Posted by Howard in France

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Domaine Joly, Joly Blanc, Terre Vins, Virgile Joly

The first time I met Virgile Joly in France at Montpellier, I thought ‘this guy has something that would sell wine’ in the back of my mind.

I’ve always believed a great story or interesting personalty sells wine and keeps people coming back for more.

iPhone shot I took at Millesime Bio

Joly was the focus of a book, Virgile’s Vineyard, that first brought his name and winery, Domaine Virgile Joly,  to prominence. Virgile’s English is pretty good and he makes great wine. He just recently contracted with Paul Chartrand, Chartrand Imports, Maine, to bring his wines to the U.S.

Joly’s name popped up in my email inbox three times this morning.

First, through a serious of communications, Chartrand  expects to have Joly wines for U.S. distributors by early summer.

Second, Terre de Vins magazine just published its list of the top 20 organic wines from a Languedoc tasting and the top wine was the Virgile – IGP Herault, Domaine Virgile Joly 2005. (100 percent Grenache Blanc)

I really found that interesting because for the story I wrote for Palate Press about organic wine, I called the same wine the best white I tasted at the Millesime Bio. Unfortunately, that section of the story was edited but I did post it to this blog.

Third, I get a number of emails daily about wine news and business. One of those featured this link to Ken Payton’s great Reign of Terroir blog and a feature on Joly.

It’s nice to know others are taking notice!

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

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Two Really Good Whites & a Great Red Under $20

19 Thursday Apr 2012

Posted by Howard in California, France, Italy

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Ca' Montini Terre di Valfredda 2010 Pinot Grigio, Gerard Bertrand, Robert Mondavi

Pinot Grigio has never been one of my favorite wines. I have never found them very interesting or particularly satisfying. There may be as much bad Pinot Grigio on the market as any other varietal. They are often flabby or flat or thin – just choose your adjective.

But I have two Pinot Grigios as great price points worth your trouble. When the grape is done right, this is a refreshing and lighter white wine for entertaining and lighter meals.

Ca’ Montini Terre di Valfredda 2010 Pinot Grigio – This might be, no probably is, the best Pinot Grigio I’ve ever had. This Italian winery was founded in the 1700s in the Veneto region. This is a family winery known for its Pinot Grigio and it shows up from the first sip until the last drop.

This Pinot Grigio provides a full-flavored wine for the palate. It’s golden in color, fragrant with flowers and has a nice hint of lemon with a bit of a sour fruit finish. You’ll get a bit of terroir and minerality.

The distinctive bottle will standout on the shelf and prove itself as a distinctive wine to serve your guests this summer season.


Ca’ Montini Terre di Valfredda 2010 Pinot Grigio, SRP $14.99, Trade Sample, Highly Recommended.

Robert Mondavi Private Selection 2011 Pinot Grigio – I’ve become a fan of the Mondavi Private Selection label because it offers good wines for a very affordable price. The Private Selection is available in many liquor stores, supermarkets and any where you might expect to buy value wine.


One of the real attributes of the label is that the different wines are consistently well made. This isn’t your typical $10 swill. Now, it’s not going to please your taste like a $20 wine either but I’d suggest it competes with the highly competitive $12-$16 market.

Mondavi draws upon vineyards in Monterey, San Benito, and Santa Barbara to make this 12.5 percent alcohol white wine.

To my palate it has hints of grapefruit and lime with really moderate acidity. But this wine as a great value. You might be surprised how refreshing a $10 wine can be!


Robert Mondavi Private Selection 2011 Pinot Grigio, SRP $9.99, Trade Sample, Recommended

Gerard Bertrand Grand Terroir 2007 Tautavel – From the Cotes du Roussillon in Southern France this easy drinking, fruit forward, red is a nice bottle of value wine. I got chocolate and black raspberries on my palate so when I find two of my favorite things – be it dessert or a red wine – I’m going to like it a lot.


Wine Spectator gave the wine a surprising 91 points. But some of the citizen review sites like Snooth and CellarTracker were not quite as kind. CellarTracker contributors gave the wine an average of 88 points but many of the comments were dismissive of the wine as “just okay.”

The wine is made of 50 percent Grenache, 35 percent Syrah, and 15 percent Carignan. It’s definitely a “ripe fruit” style of wine with hints of spice. 

I’m not sure I’d go as far as 91, if I used such a scale, but I think it’s great drinking wine at a good price. If you haven’t had much of the Languedoc-Roussillon appellation, this wine is a great introduction.


Gerard Bertrand Grand Terroir 2007 Tautavel, $14.99, Recommended

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

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Languedoc Tasting Educational for More than Retailers

12 Thursday Apr 2012

Posted by Howard in France, Wine Education/News/Updates

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Benson Marketing, Chateau des Karantas, Gerard Bertrand, Languedoc, Les Deux Rives

CHICAGO, IL. – Tasting Languedoc wines on the 33rd floor overlooking Lake Michigan isn’t a bad way to spend a Tuesday afternoon.

Retailers sample Languedoc wines at W. Lakeshore, Chicago

That was just what I did April 3 in downtown Windy City participating in one of three U.S. L’Aventure Languedoc tastings with U.S. distributors of Languedoc wines. The event is geared mostly for retailers and other buyers but it’s educational and interesting to hear what retailers are looking for and what importers, winemakers, and Languedoc leaders think retailers should be looking for when promoting Languedoc wines.

I’m starting to get more invitations of this nature but it’s hard for me to justify taking a day off work, the cost of parking, the drive, hotel, etc. But meeting a good friend for dinner was enough for a little ‘what the heck’ trip to Chicago.

I spent a week in the Languedoc in January learning about organic wines. The wines I tasted were made almost exclusively with traditional methods and presented by 10 different distributors.

I left again convinced of the tremendous quality for value the Languedoc offers winos.

The reds are full bodied and rich, the unusual whites are crisp and often soft on the palate. The Roses, right next door to Provence, are soft but perfect for summer sipping.

I’m not a big sparking fan and left generally unimpressed with the sparklers, but one strike is a pretty good batting average.

What most impressed me, though, was the education session put on by the Benson Marketing Group which promotes Languedoc wines. Account executive David Cohn told me his company likes to include an education component and not just a wine tasting. He’s right. I’m sometimes shocked how little retailers know about a given region or its wines. Now, no retailer can be an expert of all the world’s wine regions but a specialty tasting like this one makes sense when it includes an education component.

Two retailers joined Frederic Jeanjean, President of the Languedoc AOC, to talk not just about the wines and the region, but also how the wines should be promoted or presented to consumers.

Languedoc wines are a great value, most drinking well above that magic $12-$16 range you’ll pay.

Nice view of Lake Michigan, Navy Pier from 33rd floor.

Barbara Glunz, from one of Chicago’s oldest wine shops – the House of Glunz, urged retailers to learn more. “I think people come to us because they want to learn something,” she said. “People love a wine with a story. And if they learn something they’ll want to come back to see what else you know.”

Discussion including pronouncing the French names, the always-controversial topic of French wine labeling was part of the 45-minute session.

“We don’t want to copy the other appelations,” Jeanjean said. “We want to be unique. Even though we were one of the first regions of the world to produce wine with the Romans, we are young. This is our Renaissance period.”

Here are some labels I tasted and thought were standouts:


Chateau des Karantas Languedoc – The Karantas wines from the La Clape region are affordably priced and really nicely-balanced, full-bodied wines. They are distributed by Carroll Distributors in Indiana.

Gerard Bertrand Wines – Bertrand was named European Winery of the Year by Wine Enthusiast and tasting a couple of the wines proved the accolades. I tasted my first-ever PicPoul wine at the Bertrand table and enjoyed the light and soft white.


Les Deux Rives Corbieres – Lex Deux Rives wines were consistently good from the white, rose through the Chateau d’Aussieres Corbieres which was the best red blend I tasted all day. This is another label widely distributed, including Indiana.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

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3 Wines: Awesome, Darn Good, & a Stinker

02 Monday Apr 2012

Posted by Howard in France, Paso Robles & Mendocino, Spain

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Abadia Retuerta 2006 Seleccion Especial, Ancient Peaks 2009 Renegade

For three-and-a-half years I have not written much about wines I didn’t care for after sampling or purchasing. I’ve read more and more where I’m not doing anyone in service in doing that. I’ve come to agree.

I have written about not liking a particular wine and why others might like it, and occasionally really went after a bad bottle. But it’s been very rare I write about wines in a negative tone. From now on, I think it’s necessary to do that when warranted. Sometimes it might be bottle shock, a wine going bad, or other outside factors. I’ll try to note that to the best of my ability. But sometimes the wine just doesn’t taste right, like the review you’ll read below.

Now, just because I don’t like a wine doesn’t mean you might not love it. On the other hand, occasionally I’ve tasted some stinkers I would tell readers/friends to stay away from.

With that aside, sometimes we all come across a wine that is just wonderful and beyond expectations. Sometimes we find a wine that keeps us trying new things and reminds us why we became wine enthusiasts in the first place. This first review is such a wine.

Awesome – Abadia Retuerta 2006 Seleccion Especial – I like this wine so much I don’t even know where to start. This wine (a 2005 actually) won the The International Wine Challenge Award for best red wine. This wine consistently gets 90-92 points from the major wine magazines.

Dark, rich fruit like cherries, plum, and flavors of licorice, spice, coffee, and vanilla sweep over the palate in a smooth and extremely well-balanced manner that few wines match. It has very concentrated fruit with unbelievable balance from sip to swallow.

The wine comes from what is known as Spain’s Golden Mile between Tudela de Duero and Penafiel. The Abadia Retuerta wine normally retails around $23-$24 but it can be found in the $17-$18 range. It’s a tremendous value at $24. If you find it, buy it.

Abadia Retuerta 2006 Seleccion Especial, $17-$20, Very Highly Recommended

Darn Good – Ancient Peaks 2009 Renegade – This 2009 was an inaugural bottling for this wine. It’s a typically big Paso Robles combo of 46 percent Syrah, 31 percent Malbec, and 23 Petit Verdot. All of the fruit comes from Margarita Vineyard in the Central Coast appelation. This vineyard is at the foot of the Santa Lucia Mountain Range, just 14 miles from the Pacific.

The wine gets 18 months in a combination of oak. It’s a big smooth wine. On the palate, I got smoky flavors like coffee, chocolate with big fruit. Not a fruit bomb as it opens up, the wine’s power dark juiciness is balanced by good acidity and well-balanced tannins. For a wine of this power and flavor, the alcohol comes in at a palatible 14.5 percent.

The winery released just over a 1,000 cases of this wine so you’re going to have to look to find it.

Wine geekiness aside, if you like big flavored red wine with good balance Ancient Peaks Renegade is a very, very good bad boy!

Ancient Peaks 2009 Renegade, SRP $23, Trade Sample, Highly Recommended

Stinker –  Alain Paret Cotes-Du-Rhone Valvigneyre 2009 White Wine – I was upset when I tasted this wine. It’s 100 percent Viognier, a floral grape that provides wonderful aromas and often a tad of sweetness on the palate.

First, I really like the whites of France and particularly from the Rhone Valley. The wines are usually blended but when I had a chance to pick this wine up for $10.99 from a distinguished producer I jumped on a couple of bottles.

I thought a lot about this wine. It was disorganized, a little two tart for a floral wine, and just not very pleasant. I had the wine stored for awhile so I don’t think it was bottle shock. It just was not very palatable. 

Alain Paret Cotes-Du-Rhone Valvignevre, $10.99, Not Recommended.

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