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Howard W. Hewitt

~ … The "W" stands for wine!

Howard W. Hewitt

Category Archives: France

Wine World’s Most Important Book

13 Sunday Sep 2015

Posted by Howard in France, Newspaper Column 2015

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Chateau Montelena, George Tabor, Judgement of Paris, Stags Leap

The book market is flooded with more wine books than any average wine consumer could ever imagine. And, there are actually two worth picking up online or at a good bookstore.

Grape Sense LogoKaren MacNeil’s Wine Bible is an encyclopedia of wine. The noted wine writer released a second version of the book this year and the paperback version is well worth the $20. Author MacNeil covers everything you ever wanted to know about wine. From the great wine regions, their quirks, and to every wine grape imaginable it’s a resource book any wino will get a big kick out of owning.

The other book, and a breezy read, is Judgment of Paris. George Tabor’s epic tale of the 1976 tasting of French and California wines is educational, fun, and even inspiring.

The gist of the story starts with a British man who owned a small French wine shop. Steven Spurrier was the wine merchant, now wine writer and critic, at the heart of one of the world’s most important wine stories. To spur interest in his small Paris shop he decided to host a tasting of great French wines and wines from upstart Napa Valley, California.

MontelenaSpurrier sought to get the snooty French press and others to the low-key tasting event but couldn’t attract any French reporter. He insisted at the time it was not a competition but chance to compare the colonies efforts against the grand stature of French wine.

The only reporter present was Tabor. At the time of the tasting, Tabor was a Time Magazine reporter with no real background in wine. His historic reporting changed the wine world. In reality, his short magazine piece was just four paragraphs but its impact gave California gravitas against Old World Wines.

Tabor did not write his landmark book about the tasting until 2005. The heart of his book is how he details the career of Spurrier up until the time of the tasting and, more importantly, shares the history of the wineries involved in the Paris showdown. The fascinating chapters are the stories of the California winemakers who made the wine which put U.S. vintners on the world stage.

It’s tough to spoil the ending of a story nearly 40 years old. But to the shock of the celebrated French palates that day, we won. The panel of judges, in a blind tasting, picked Stags Leap Cabernet the best red and Chateau Montelena as the best Chardonnay.

George Tabor

George Tabor

Many of those pioneers are gone now but many of the wineries still exist. The men who made California great live on in this book. A few, in their 90s now, are revered in California wine country.

There is an entertaining movie called “Bottle Shock” about the tasting. It’s beautifully filmed in Napa Valley and is fun for any wine lover. Be warned the movie fictionalizes large parts of the story to create an entertaining piece of cinema. The basic story is true but livened up a bit for the big screen.

I’d strongly recommend the book. The movie is fun with a nice glass of California Cabernet – maybe even one from Stag’s Leap!

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French Bistro Will Find Indy Niche

11 Wednesday Mar 2015

Posted by Howard in Food & Travel, France, Indiana

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billig, crepes, Cropichon et Bidibule, French Bistro, Indianapolis Restaurants

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Bonjour Indianapolis! Tu parle Francais?

Speaking French certainly isn’t necessary for a stop at Indy’s newest restaurant – Cropichon et Bidibule. A taste for French food, a love of crepes, or even a slight sense of adventure will serve diners better than linquistics.

The dining area, including this bar, can seat up to 80.

The dining area, including this bar, can seat up to 80.

Musicians and French nationales Stephane and Cathy Coueffe have renovated a beautiful spot near Mesh restaurant on Mass Ave. The restaurant opened Mar. 3 so they’re still working out a few kinks.

A mid-afternoon lunch was a delightful experience. The bright dining room with hints of black and red – and a few Parisian decor items delivered while I ate – is most attractive.

The menu features starters like charcuteries and fromages – or meats and cheeses. Any of five choices in either category cost $12.

But the highlight  of my lunch was clearly the crepes. I had a wonderful Gallette Complete for $9 of cured ham, gruyere cheese, and a soft-centered fried egg. It was a perfect ham and cheese lunch if you want to dumb it down a bit. But with the beautiful presentation its a shame not to put on your best French accent, or even Pepe le Pew, and soak up the relaxed atmosphere.

The whimsical floor of the men's room - covered in photos from French films.

The whimsical floor of the men’s room – covered in photos from French films.

Crepes come in two variations – the Gallettes are a buckwheat flour crepe that nationally gluten free and goes well with savory foods. The restaurant imports its buckwheat flour for a real authentic feel.

The crepes you may, or may not, know will be more familiar on the opposite side of the menu. Ranging from $5-$7, the traditional crepe makes an excellent snack or dessert. I enjoyed the $6 Le Crepe a la Creme de Cirton Faite Maison – or a crepe with lemon cream and red raspberry. It’s a treat you just can’t find at your local tenderloin joint.

The dinner menu features small and large plates of traditional French cuisine. The small plates range $6-11. The large plates, or dinner items, features many French staples like beef burgundy, duck breast, cured pork and pork belly, poached cod, and steak frites. Dinner entrees range $18-26.

The food was really delicious. Not being a huge crepe consumer, I can just say I liked them a lot. They have a traitional billig – or crepe making device. The crepes can be served open faced, which is traditional, or even as a wrap known as street style. And if you never have had a crepe, just think really light pancake.

There remain a few kinks but the staff was extremely cordial and responsive. I ordered the Gruyere/Onion soup. It was delivered with a warning it might have too much pepper.  It did and the staff quickly brought a beautiful salad of fresh greens. They later brought me a bowl of the chef’s take on French onion soup revisited and it was wonderful. That soup alone is reason for me to return.

The wine list impressed me for the variety and dedication to French wines. There were a few non-French choices, wines from most of the major wine producing areas were available at reasonable prices – most at $8-$10 per glass.

The by-the-glass program featured seven whites and nine reds. General Manager Scott Ramsey, who also manages the wine list, wants to serve primarily French wines but also wanted a big by-the-glass list to introduce French wines to his restaurant guests.

Indianapolis once had two or three really great French restaurants – all now gone. There is a spot or two doing crepes and the Bijou in Lebanon still going strong.

Cropichon et Bidibule brings something to Indy badly needed – authentic French cuisine. Oh, the name? Well folks are going to struggle with that but its the nicknames of the couple’s two children.

Au revoir!

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Wine You Won’t Find, Would Love

21 Wednesday Jan 2015

Posted by Howard in France

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Benjamin Golden, Burgundy, Golden Vines, Jean-Baptiste Ponsot, White Burgundy

Ponsot Cave

John Baptiste barrel tasting his whites.

The headline above is enough to label me or anyone who would write it a bit of a wine snob. But that’s not really the point of the post. I was recently taken with a very nice glass of White Burgundy that I found surprisingly wonderful for a mere $25.99.

First, the wine: Jean Baptiste Ponsot Rully 2012 would be an entry level White Burgundy (Chardonnay) from an extremely small producer in France’s famous Burgundy region.

I bought the bottle along with two Burgundy reds (Pinot Noir) from a New York wine shop. But more on the back story in a second.

John Baptiste in his vineyard.

John Baptiste in his vineyard.

The white wine was stellar. From the first whiff at the rim of the glass I loved the hint of mineral and flowers. There certainly was a bit of wood going on as well. The wine offered soft fruit like a peach but what got me was the creamy texture but still a delivery of well-balanced acid on the finish.

The back story is compelling. John-Baptiste Ponsot is just 35 years old but has worked the vineyards since he was 20. Rully is a small village south of Cote d’Or – the heart of Burgundy. The young winemaker watches over his 8.5 hectare (or 21 acre) vineyard and produces wines that sell out as quick as he can make them.

The back story is a friend of a friend is an importer of small production Burgundy wines. His clients are little guys in the shadows of the bigger names of one of France’s most famous wine regions. But the wines are available retail – restaurant or shop – only in New York. The importer directed me to a New York shop that ships to Indiana. I bought the bottle described here along with the two reds. I’m really anxious to try the Pinots.

I tell the story and sing the wine’s virtues to re-iterate the point that as you search the shelves of your favorite wine shop or visit a wine region, seek out the small producers giving every wine, every bottle, and each grape his or per personal attention. The wines will often astound you.

PonsotThe story one level deeper is I’m starting to plan a wine tour to Burgundy for 2016. The importer friend – Benjamin Golden, Golden Vines – has already offered some suggestions for the trip.

John Baptiste Ponsot 2012 Rully ‘en Bas de Vauvray, $25.99, Very Highly Recommended.

Postscript: I will write about the two reds after tasting them. I would be happy to share the wine shop information if anyone wishes a real taste of Burgundy.

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Rose’ Growth; Vineyard Harvest Time

30 Tuesday Sep 2014

Posted by Howard in France, Newspaper Column 2014, Oregon

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Don Crank, Provence Rosé, Rose', Willamette Valley Vineyards

Long-time Grape Sense readers know of my passion for dry rosé. The latest numbers show more and more Americans are enjoying the dry pink passion.

Grape Sense LogoThe Nielsen growth statistics have been rather astounding the past few years. The last reporting period covered May 2013 to May of this year showed 20 percent growth in volume of imported Provence Rosé. If that’s not impressive enough, consider mid-summer sales ending June 21 for the previous 52 weeks showing an incredible 55 percent growth in Rosé imports.

But anecdotally I’ve witnessed growth beyond the French sales. At least two of the more prominent Indianapolis-area wine shops had a considerably larger rosé selection this summer than previous years.

RoseloresDuring summer trips to Oregon and California it certainly appeared more wineries were designating precious grapes for their first or second vintage of dry rosé.

So if you haven’t tried dry Rose, what are you missing? Rosé hits just the right spot between dry white and red wines. It may be the most flexible wine in your wine rack. You can enjoy rosé with a very wide range of meals well beyond reds and whites. It’s also the best sipper in the wine rack for those evenings of small bites and a glass of wine.

My other personal favorite wine is Pinot Noir and particularly Oregon Pinot. It’s always interesting to talk to winemakers and get their take on what’s happening in the vineyard this time of year. I met Don Crank, Willamette Valley Vineyards winemaker, a couple of years ago at the Indy International Wine Competition.

“The winemaking and vineyard team and I are now working around the clock to bring in fruit from our three estate vineyards,” Crank said of the on-going fall harvest. “The grapes have reached optimal ripeness from the evenly warm vintage, and have retained their naturally bright acidity from the cool nights. What sets 2014 apart from other warm weathered years is we didn’t experience heat spikes in the vineyard, sending the grapes into sun-shock. Instead, the fruit is healthy and near-perfection.”

Crank picks Pinot Noir and Chardonnay first to make his ‘traditional-method’ sparkling wine.

Don Crank

Don Crank

“The grapes were pressed immediately to avoid picking up color or tannin from the skins and are now fermenting. We will bottle this wine after some time in barrel, and then inoculate for its secondary fermentation, which creates the sparkle.”

Harvest time is always chaotic in any wine region. It’s a little extra chaotic this fall in Napa after the Aug. 24 earthquake. The estimated losses have constantly been upgraded to nearly $80 million.

You can support some of the hardest hit wineries by going online and buying wine. Look for Robert Baile, Page Cellars, Laird, and Yates Family Winery. There are many more but those are smaller operations which can really use your wine shopping dollars.

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Summertime is Rosé Wine Time

07 Saturday Jun 2014

Posted by Howard in France

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Provence Wine Council, Rose', Vins de Provence

If you could be a super hero, mythical character or fictional leader, who would you choose?

Superman? A Mutant Ninja Turtle? Or maybe Jean ValJean?

Grape Sense LogoI’d be the Pied Piper! No, not the Middle Ages Pied Piper of Germany, who allegedly led children away from villages. Nor would I be the Pied Pier of 16th Century Germany who might have led rats from infested Dorfs! (small villages)

I’d be the Pied Piper of Provence, France, and lead you to dry, French Rosé wine.

One of the many great things about dry Rosé is that it can be made from different grapes and it’s produced all around the world. You can enjoy Cabernet, Malbec, Chambourcin, and Sangiovese Rosé.

RoseImageOregon’s Rosé of Pinot Noir and Provence Rosé tops them all for my palate. Every summer, for the past several years, I’ve written about Southern France’s famous salmon-pink wine. It excites me every May and delights me in June and July.

And it’s good news to report how other U.S. wine drinkers are in agreement. Provence Rosé wine sales continue to explode. French Provence Rosé exports went up an astounding 40 percent last year in volume and value. Astounding just too big a word or too much hyperbole for you? Measure the word’s use against the 2012 statistical report from the Provence Wine Council which reported a 41 percent increase two years ago and 62 percent jump in 2011.
“Exports of Provence Rosé to the United States show no signs of slowing down, and neither does consumer demand for rosé from Provence, the gold standard,” said Julie Peterson, in press materials, of the CIVP/Provence Wine Council’s U.S. trade office. “With these increased volumes flowing into the country, American consumers are also finding a wider variety of flavor profiles from producers across Provence.”

Besides the delightful mineralty, fruit, and freshness of dry Provence Rosé, Rosé is great for the price. Really good bottles can be found at $10-$20. As a matter of fact, Nielsen Research reports the average price per bottle is just $16.38.

Wine Travel
One of the best ways to learn more about wine and have a great vacation is travel to the great wine regions of the world. It’s been a real blessing to visit Napa/Sonoma, Italy’s Tuscany, Oregon’s Willamette Valley, Bordeaux, Chablis, and the Languedoc in France, along with California’s Central Coast in recent years.

I’m plugging two trips here so readers can follow along. I’ll be leading my first private Grape Sense wine tour June 9-13 in Oregon’s Willamette Valley. After a very short weekend, I’ll be in Italy for two weeks June 17-27. The Italy trip is for my work but I’ll be eating and drinking Italian and I’m sure to publish a few blog posts.

Follow both trips right here.

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Three Great Reds & a White

08 Saturday Mar 2014

Posted by Howard in California, France, South America

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Carmenere, Grand Veneur. Cotes du Rhone, Klinker Brick, Maipo Valley, Napa Valley, Old Vine Zin, Southern Rhone Blend, Syrah, T-Vine, Vina Vintisquero Grey, Zinfandel

It seems each time I get around to doing some reviews it’s about ‘catching up!’ Today is not different with a few really good bottles I’ve enjoyed in recent weeks.

Let’s start with my recent “wine kick” – Syrah and an old favorite.

T-vineT-Vine 2007 Napa Valley Syrah – Winter is a great time for stews and beef dishes. Syrah is a great pairing with most of those dishes. Loved the huge nose on this wine and the taste of blackberry, all the dark fruits and good spice. Some serious wine drinkers would call the wine jammy but the mouth feel was not quite that heavy for me.

It’s a big wine with 14.6 percent alcohol but I liked the balance and smooth spicy finish.

The other odd thing about this was an extraordinary amount of sediment. I use a Vinturi aerator with a filter so it wasn’t a problem in the glass — but a large amount was left in the bottle!

T-Vine 2007 Napa Valley Syrah, retails at $40-$50, Highly Recommended.

Klinker BrickKlinker Brick 2011 Old Vine Zinfandel – This old Lodi friend seldom disappoints. The Zin has the kind of spicy or peppery finish you’d expect from Zinfandel along with nice dark red fruit – think cherries.

I remember more pronounced fruit from previous vintages but still such a solid choice. My only criticism is this wine is really hot – that’s 15.8 percent alcohol hot!

It’s a consistent winner though from year to year and a great house Zin.

Klinker Brick 2011 Old Vine Zinfandel, $15 in most stores, Recommended.

GreyGrey 2011 Carménère – The Vina Vintisquero Grey Maipo Valley Carménère was simply one of the best I’ve ever tasted.

Blueberries, blackberries, smoke and spice make this a seductive glass of wine. Gone is the green vegetal taste of way too many inexpensive Chilean wines! It spends 18 months in new oak and is the kind of big wine that pairs really well with big food. It’s a reasonable 14 percent alcohol.

The wine has long finish and will have you re-thinking Carménère. It drinks above its less than $20 price point! I couldn’t have been more impressed!

Vina Vintisquero Grey Carménère, $18.99, Trade Sample, Very Highly Recommended.

reserve-grand-veneur-blanc-domaine-grand-veneurAlain Jaume & Fils 2012 Grand Veneur Cotes du Rhone Blanc – The wine is your typical French Southern Rhone white blend. But what does that mean?

These inexpensive white Rhones are always very drinkable if not equally unremarkable. But that’s not always a bad thing. If you want a nice, soft French white for dinner or as a sipper you can’t go wrong with a well-made wine in the low teens. Most of the Rhone whites fall into that description.

“Rhone blend” usually includes some varying amounts of Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Rousanne, Viognier, Bourboulenc, and Picpou.

Alain Jaume & Fils 2012 Grand Veneur Cotes du Rhone Blanc, $13.99, Recommended.

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Chablis is Long Way from California

10 Monday Feb 2014

Posted by Howard in Food & Travel, France

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Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru, Chablis Premier Cru, Domaine Fevre, Domaine Joseph Drouhin, Jean Marc Brocard, Simon-Billaud

Chablis Rock

Social media is a powerful and interesting tool. We worship it, belittle it, ignore it and fuss over it. And that’s just Monday through Thursday!

For the most part social media is a wonderful way to stay in contact with friends near and far. It’s also a great tool to talk about common interests – like wine.

After a posting last night about enjoying a couple glasses of Chablis, I had a lot considerable chatter. Here’s the post:

“If you’re one of those people that just don’t care much for Chardonnay, you should try Chablis before writing it off. I am NOT a fan of California, oaked Chard – but really enjoy the minerality and crispness of the same grape grown in Chablis. Tonight’s Chablis is a simple one but quite tasty: Drouhin’s 2010 Vaudon Chablis. You can find it around $20 everywhere!”

Chablis, France

Chablis, France

It was rather surprising that many had not really tried real Chablis – grown at the north end of Burgundy. Several asked about the difference and why Chablis is special.

Not to start too much with French geeky wine talk, but it’s all about the terroir. Let’s start by mentioning the photo at the top of the post. I took that shot atop a cold Chablis hill in October 2012. Look closely at the floor of the vineyard and you will see beautiful fall leaves and stones – LOTS of stones.

Chablis’ Chardonnay is planted on the hillsides surround the beautiful tiny hamlet of Chablis with soil atop limestone. Those rocks seen above are seen in every vineyard in Chablis. The limestone gives Chablis its “flinty” or mineral flavor.

Additionally, Chablis is a cool climate area where Chardonnay grapes do not ripen like California. In the hot California sun Chardonnay becomes very ripe with higher alcohol levels from all that sun and hot air. Chablis’ Chardonnays are grown in cooler temperatures and produces lighter fruit and more acidity.

Chablis is largely fermented and aged in stainless steel. A new generation of Chablis winemakers are experimenting with oak but far less than you will find in a white Burgundy. From a visit with winemakers over three days, we heard often that only a portion of the final blend would be aged in oak. And often the oak is older wood without the impact of new oak – often reserved for red wines elsewhere in France.

Understanding really good wine is more often than not a lesson in geography, climate and soils. I’ve been lucky to visit wine regions around the world and the one consistent message from winemakers about great wine? Great wine is made in the vineyard.

A friend commented on the Facebook post that Chablis can be expensive – and he’s right. Those $15 bottles, are frankly, not going to give you a true representation of great Chablis. I do believe the Drouhin Vaudon Chabis is a good entry level bottle of wine. It can be found in the $18-$23 range in good wine shops.

Chablis has four levels – Petit Chablis, Chablis, Premier Cru, and Grand Cru. I’d strongly recommend trying at least the Premier Cru Chablis to get a great taste of French terroir.

Averages are always a so-so barometer but you can count on spending $35-$50 for a Premier Cru Chablis. The Grand Cru Chablis are most often those which will see some oak in the aging process and be the most pricey. But these are wines that are age-worthy! There are only 230 acres of Grand Cru vineyards so it’s truly a special wine. Grand Cru wines tend to start around $50 a bottle and go up!

Top end Chablis is delightful and as far from California’s oaky, buttery Chardonnay as a big red wine. Here are some names easy to find and great producers: Joseph Drouhin, Domaine Fevre, Jean-Marc Brocard, and my personal favorite Simon-Billaud. These four are all based on personal tastings.

I’m a bit prejudiced toward Simon-Billaud wines because we met in the old chateau with Bernard Billaud. Through a young translator he talked about his family’s years of winemaking. In my nearly seven years of wine-writing, he gave one of the great quotes you’ll ever hear. It’s not arrogance, it’s pride.

From a March blog post/newspaper column about the trip:

Bernard Billaud of Billaud-Simon

Bernard Billaud of Billaud-Simon

How does a little minerality and acid change a wine that everyone knows and everyone has probably tasted? It’s the magic of terrior. I remember the aggravated words of Bernard Billaud who said (and I paraphrase) …’if you are talking Chablis it has to be about the minerality and acidity, and if not …. you are just making Chardonnay.’

And you had to hear the derision in “just making Chardonnay” to appreciate the Frenchman’s dignity and pride. It was quite a moment.

If you visit that blog post you’ll find links to all my posts from Chablis and lots of photos.

I was joined on that Chablis trip by other U.S.-based wine writers. One of the writers I most enjoyed was Michael Apstein. Here is a very thorough piece he penned after the trip.

As promised on Facebook, the one region in the U.S. making great – and largely unoaked – Chardonnay is Oregon. Many Oregon Chards are the closest I’ve tasted to Chablis on this side of the big pond!

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Snowstorm Wine Choice: Go Classic!

06 Monday Jan 2014

Posted by Howard in France

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Bordeaux, Chateau Lassègue. Languedoc, Cremant de Limoux, Gerard Bertrand, Saint Emilion

SnowTrees6pmBeen monitoring the dog and the snowfall in Central Indiana throughout the day. Weather forecast called for 8-12 inches of snow with sub-zero temperatures tomorrow. As I write, about 6 p.m., we seem to have reached the 8-inch level already!

And … it’s still snowing!!!!!

I waited until 5 p.m. to pop open a bottle of wine and chose Bordeaux. I also wanted to give props to a French sparkler I opened New Year’s Eve.

DinnerChateau Lassègue  2007 Grand Cru – This is a wonderfully smooth Saint Emilion Grand Cru wine for under $50. That can be hard to find.

I wasn’t in mood to cook but had lots of freshly made frozen chili. Snowed in and probably snowed in tomorrow with work called off — I thought I should open something really good.

I pulled this trade sample Bordeaux from the rack and it just keeps getting better with each sip as it opens up. It matched up with the chili pretty good too – I don’t make my chili spicy at all so it was great pairing.

The wine has some blueberry feel in the mouth along with the kind of limestone secondary hints one would expect from Saint Emilion. It’s a Merlot, Cab Franc, Cab Sauvignon blend that may not be as well structured and rewarding as better (but higher priced) offerings, but definitely satisfies.

This is a great example of affordable Bordeaux and part of the Bordeaux Today marketing campaign aimed at making that point. Online I found prices ranging from $39.99 to $69.99 – the lower end makes the most sense for this one

BertrandChateau Lassègue  2007 Grand Cru, SRP $50, Trade Sample, Highly Recommended at this price.

Gerard Bertrand 2010 Cremant de Limoux Brut – The Limoux region of Languedoc has actually been making sparkling wine longer than Champagne!

This is widely available wine from one of southern France’s best known producers. All of his wines are good value and usually very good wine. Production in the region dates back to the 1500s!

The Cremant was delightful. The bubbles come off on the milder side. The taste was a nice combo of apple, pear and maybe even Grandma’s apple pie! The wine is  70 percent chardonnay, 20 percent chenin blanc and 10 percent mauzac, the indigenousness grape that used to dominate all Limoux sparkling wine.

For those who want less fizz and smooth taste, this is an easy drinker at really great price.

Gerard Bertrand 2010 Cremant de Limoux Brut, $18, Highly Recommended.

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A Weekend of Wine Reviews

27 Friday Dec 2013

Posted by Howard in California, France, Italy

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Bordeaux, Cantin Tudernum, Chateau Bonneau, Fidenzio, Montagne, Sagrantino, St. Emilion, value Bordeaux

In a land far away and definitely a long, long time ago, I did radio sports play-by-play for basketball and football. I thought I might take that approach through Tuesday for the two or three wines I taste over that time period.

Now before my friends get concerned about an intervention, I haven’t consumed wine in nearly a week because of the holidays. So with lots of time home for taking down the tree, house cleaning, laundry, and making a couple of massive pots of chili – a few bottles are likely to get popped open.

So here’s the format for the call:

Day 1, Friday Dec. 27

chteau-bonneau-2008-montagne-st-emilion-bordeaux-433-1Chateau Bonneau 2009 Montagne St. Emilion, Bordeaux – This is outstanding table wine. The bottle was a gift from a French national who was quick to note it was nothing special just really good table wine. And that tops any description I could give it.

A few notes though would call attention to its drinkability. There’s not much going on here but it’s very well-made wine. Bonneau is a very small operation near Montagne in the Saint Emilion region east of Bordeaux (the city).

The alcohol is a modest 13.5 percent. I picked up nice fruit from the Merlot and Cab Franc blend. It has a modest little finish that most would find pleasing. In doing a little research I found recommendation that the bottle would peak in 3-4 years. I’d say it’s there right now.

What’s wrong with a nice round and soft Bordeaux blend with a pot of chili? Nothing at all.

This wine is available through several outlets in the state for just under $20.

Chateau Bonneau 2009 Montagne St. Emilion, Bordeaux, $19.99, Recommended Bordeaux at this price point.

Day 2, Saturday, Dec. 28

Beringer 1999 Marston Vineyard, Spring Mountain, Cabernet – Wow! A little wow is needed when you open up a bottle of older wine and it lives up to expectations.

MeRiedelCab

Sipping the Cab from my new Riedel Vinum XL Cabernet glass! It’s HUGE!

But let’s set this up: It’s 50 unbelievable degrees in Indiana today. So this afternoon I decided I needed to grill out – when will that chance come again – April? So I bought a nice ribeye and pulled an older bottle from the wine storage fridge.

My grill would not fire up 😦 .. not sure what’s up with that. But I spiced up the ribeye with a thick coating of sea salt, Texas spice rub, and fresh ground pepper. I seared the steak in a frying pan then tossed it into a hot oven for just a few minutes. It came out perfectly medium rare.

beringerI had three bottles of ’99 Beringer Cab but the first two had gone bad. I suspect too much travel and bad corks. But this bottle of Cabernet had held up nicely. I jumped online to find reviews and found several 2013 tasting notes. I found those to be consistent with what I found in the glass — big tannins, big finish, big nose of oak and fading fruit. Now while that may sound negative it’s not – it was great wine for the steak and some sea salt chocolate that followed.

If you’re into wine and have not consumed older bottles, it’s really a step you need to take to expand your palate. This was a $50 bottle of wine when released. It’s was a nice change of pace and great ribeye companion.

Beringer 1999 Marston Vineyard, Spring Mountain, Cabernet, $50, Highly Recommend – if you can find it.

Day 3, Sunday, Dec. 29

chili

cantina-tudernum-fidenzio-Cantina Tudernum Fidenzio 2007 Montefalco Sagrantino – This is not your local grocery’s wine. My wine buddies and I call this “big boy” wine. So put on you’re big boy pants as we round third heading for home (thanks to the late Joe Nuxhall for that) and let’s talk Sagrantino.

I’ve written about this wonderful Umbrian wine before and decided it would be perfect for a day of making chili. Each winter I make two giant pots of chili and freeze it in single serving containers. I end up with chili for the rest of the winter season.

But I digress. Sagrantino is grown only in a small area of Italy – Umbria to be exact. There is a limited number of producers. The wine is probably best known for its scarcity and it’s big tannic characteristics.

This wine is aged 12 months in oak. It has a roasting spice characteristic .. think thyme or rosmary. It’s rich with a heavy but wonderful feel in the mouth. This is not wimpy wine.

It’s also not cheap. This bottle retails at $46. But Sagrantino is unique. You can find Sagrantino at better wine shops – but probably only in larger cities. It’s great wine and definitely something a bit different. I love it.

Caintina Tudernum Fidenzio 2007 Montefalco Sagrantino, $46, Very Highly Recommended.

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Two Really Great Red Wines

22 Friday Nov 2013

Posted by Howard in California, France, Paso Robles & Mendocino

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Derby Wine Estates, Domaine Gilles Troulilier, Implico, Languedoc, Paso Robles

It’s a long way from Paso Robles to Southern France but catching up with wine reviews takes us from the west coast to the languedoc. It’s worth the trip no matter which direction you travel.

derby-wine-estates-implico-bordeaux-blend-paso-robles-usa-10505904Derby Wine Estates 2007 Implico – This is a wonderful Paso Robles blend of 61 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 18 percent Merlot, 15 percent Cabernet Franc and 6 percent Petit Verdot.

Small production, oak aged, and a beautiful representation of California’s fastest growing wine region is just a good start. I really liked this wine.

It was big, rich, and everything I want from California wine. It had red fruit and the leather/tobacco components of delightful big red wine. There is a delightfuly hint of vanilla from the oak aging. It had muscle without being overpowering.

This wine would work with beef or hearty winter stews.

Derbu 2007 Implico – This vintage is largely sold out. The last few vintages are sold out. The 2010 is available at $32. I’d call it a bargain at the price. Highly Recommended!

domaine-gilles-troullier-l-imprevue-vin-de-pays-des-cotes-catalanes-france-10441249 - CopyDomaine Gilles Troulilier 2006 – This is a Grenache-based wine that has the earthiness to make you think you’re drinking a blend with Carignan. That’s for the real Languedoc geeks out there. I’ll admit, I thought I was drinking the ancient, Southern France Carignan but what I learned about the wine is it is Grenache.

If you like earthy and big you’ll just love this wine. The 2006 is quite drinkable but would clearly age well.

Domaine Gilles 2006 Troulilier – I bought this on a flash site but can retail for up to $40. It’s a great, great representation of southern France wines. Highly Recommended.

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