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Howard W. Hewitt

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Howard W. Hewitt

Tag Archives: Carmenere

Chilean Wine Keeps Improving

02 Wednesday Apr 2014

Posted by Howard in Newspaper Column 2014, South America

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Tags

Bonarda, Carmenere, Grey Single Block, Malbec, Ventisquero, Wines of Chile

South American wines played a key role in revolutionizing the concept of value wines in recent years. Argentina has had great success with its seductive Malbec, earthy Bonarda, and even the white difference of Torrontos.

Grape Sense LogoChile has been around longer but may be viewed more skeptically by growing mostly Cabernet, Syrah, and Merlot wines. Early on much of the Chilean Sauvignon Blanc was quite tasty. But the reds were marred with a green pepper or vegetal flavor that was a little more than unappealing to many palates.

The Chilean wines I’ve tasted in the past year are increasingly of higher quality and interest. Chilean winemakers are also experimenting with Pinot Noir and even Rhone blends. The unique and different growing regions could make Chile a real wine star in coming years.
A little background goes all of the way back to the 16th century and Spanish conquistadors introducing vines to the coastal nation. In the 1800s the French introduced Cabernet, Merlot, Cab Franc, and a somewhat obscure grape, Carmenere.

Keep in mind when thinking about the environment for grape growing is the unique terroir. The Andes and the Pacific Ocean sandwich the grape growing regions. That would be latitudes similar to Spain.

There are five major wine regions, arguably the Central Coast produces the best wines or at least the wines most often found on U.S. shelves. The Central Valley includes the three Maipo regions along with the best known Colchagua Valley area.

Some important folks and winemakers have taken notice of Chile’s potential in recent years through partnerships and investment. Robert Mondavi, Miguel Torres, Chateau Lafite Rothschild, and Chateau Mouton Rothschild have all partnered to make wines.

WinesChileLogoGreat Britain imports a lot of Chilean wines and even the higher end bottles. In the U.S., Chilean wine normally means value – or frankly, cheap red wine.

Where Chile may have a long-term advantage is the diversity of its wine industry. The Cabernet, Syrah, and Merlot wines are certainly a bit different than pulling one off the shelf from California. That little-known French blender Carmenere has been adopted by Chile as its signature grape. Carmenere is big, inky, deep purple wine that can be over-powering to silky and alluring.

The bottle line is affordable Chilean wine wasn’t all that good just a few years ago but it’s improving fast. It’s time to revisit the South America section of your wine store, move past Argentina for now, and try the improving Chilean wines.

Some names I can recommend: Montes, Errazuriz, Casa Silva, Miguel Torres, Terra Andina, Santa Ema, Carmen and Ventisquero.

The Ventisquero wines are at a slightly higher price point than many, they are really knockout wines. I received these wines as a trade sample.

Grey Single Block Carmenere – Blueberries, blackberries, smoke and spice make this a seductive glass of wine. It spends 18 months in new oak and is the kind of big wine that pairs really well with big food.

Grey Single Block Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 – The 96 percent Cab, 4 percent Petit Verdot wine was a wonderfully bold Cabernet with beautiful balance.

Grey GCM 2011 – This was the surprise of the lot for me. I had not had Rhone varietals from Chile and this wine blend of Garnacha, Mourvedre, and Carignan showed tremendous potential.

This label is widely available with all three wines at a suggested retail price of $23.99.

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Three Great Reds & a White

08 Saturday Mar 2014

Posted by Howard in California, France, South America

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Carmenere, Grand Veneur. Cotes du Rhone, Klinker Brick, Maipo Valley, Napa Valley, Old Vine Zin, Southern Rhone Blend, Syrah, T-Vine, Vina Vintisquero Grey, Zinfandel

It seems each time I get around to doing some reviews it’s about ‘catching up!’ Today is not different with a few really good bottles I’ve enjoyed in recent weeks.

Let’s start with my recent “wine kick” – Syrah and an old favorite.

T-vineT-Vine 2007 Napa Valley Syrah – Winter is a great time for stews and beef dishes. Syrah is a great pairing with most of those dishes. Loved the huge nose on this wine and the taste of blackberry, all the dark fruits and good spice. Some serious wine drinkers would call the wine jammy but the mouth feel was not quite that heavy for me.

It’s a big wine with 14.6 percent alcohol but I liked the balance and smooth spicy finish.

The other odd thing about this was an extraordinary amount of sediment. I use a Vinturi aerator with a filter so it wasn’t a problem in the glass — but a large amount was left in the bottle!

T-Vine 2007 Napa Valley Syrah, retails at $40-$50, Highly Recommended.

Klinker BrickKlinker Brick 2011 Old Vine Zinfandel – This old Lodi friend seldom disappoints. The Zin has the kind of spicy or peppery finish you’d expect from Zinfandel along with nice dark red fruit – think cherries.

I remember more pronounced fruit from previous vintages but still such a solid choice. My only criticism is this wine is really hot – that’s 15.8 percent alcohol hot!

It’s a consistent winner though from year to year and a great house Zin.

Klinker Brick 2011 Old Vine Zinfandel, $15 in most stores, Recommended.

GreyGrey 2011 Carménère – The Vina Vintisquero Grey Maipo Valley Carménère was simply one of the best I’ve ever tasted.

Blueberries, blackberries, smoke and spice make this a seductive glass of wine. Gone is the green vegetal taste of way too many inexpensive Chilean wines! It spends 18 months in new oak and is the kind of big wine that pairs really well with big food. It’s a reasonable 14 percent alcohol.

The wine has long finish and will have you re-thinking Carménère. It drinks above its less than $20 price point! I couldn’t have been more impressed!

Vina Vintisquero Grey Carménère, $18.99, Trade Sample, Very Highly Recommended.

reserve-grand-veneur-blanc-domaine-grand-veneurAlain Jaume & Fils 2012 Grand Veneur Cotes du Rhone Blanc – The wine is your typical French Southern Rhone white blend. But what does that mean?

These inexpensive white Rhones are always very drinkable if not equally unremarkable. But that’s not always a bad thing. If you want a nice, soft French white for dinner or as a sipper you can’t go wrong with a well-made wine in the low teens. Most of the Rhone whites fall into that description.

“Rhone blend” usually includes some varying amounts of Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Rousanne, Viognier, Bourboulenc, and Picpou.

Alain Jaume & Fils 2012 Grand Veneur Cotes du Rhone Blanc, $13.99, Recommended.

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Rich Red, Smooth White for Weekend

04 Sunday Aug 2013

Posted by Howard in Napa/Sonoma, South America

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Carmen, Carmenere, Chile, Equilibrium, Franciscan

I enjoyed two interesting wines with guests Saturday that often scare me off. Most Califorinia (not all) white blends are often too rich, and a tad to softn (sometimes sweet) for my palate. The other was a Chilean Carmenere. I’ve certainly tasted many Carmenere wines but most were a little rough around the edges.

These two wines may change my mind about pre-conceived notions!

carmenereCarmen 2010 Gran Reserva Carmenere – Delicious, rich raspberry and a smooth-mouth feel start to finish is what I’ve been looking for in Carmenere. Carmen delivers!

For my palate, it was pretty juicy wine but also dry and earthy. Good minerality and tannins. It definitely had a pepper finish that made it work well with a char-grilled ribeye. Too many Chilean wines have that ‘green taste” … green peppers if you will, and I’m not a fan.

Carmen 2010 Gran Reserva Carmenere, around $15 – trade sample, Highly Recommended.

FRN_Equilibrium_medFranciscan 2012 Equilibrium – This white wine comes from a great Napa producer and really delivers a delightful and well-balanced glass of wine.

Many of the California white blends I’ve had lately seemed out of what with 3-5-7 white grapes. Franciscan sticks with primarily Sauv Blanc, then throws in a little Chardonnay and Muscat to soften and round the rough spots. It works!

There is easy-to-spot white peach and great balance. This would be a wonderful match for those who enjoy spicy foods. I actually served it with a peach and mozzarella summer salad and it was spectacular.

Franciscan 2012 Equilibrium, SRP $23, trade sample, Highly Recommended.

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A Long Time Between Chilean Carmeneres

03 Tuesday Jan 2012

Posted by Howard in South America

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Tags

Carmenere, Chile

Chile, Argentina and others in South America are producing some outstanding varietal red wines and red wine blends. I love Malbec and Bonarda from south of the border but I’m still developing a taste for Carmenere.

I popped open Falernia 2007 Reserva Carmenere the other night and it had that dark purplish color the grape is known for and a pleasant nose.

I liked the rich dark fruit and thought it was pretty smooth wine until I got to the finish. Then, someone lit a match! The alcohol seemed way too pronounced against the dark fruit flavors. I went searching for the bottle to find the wine comes in at 15 percent alcohol. For me and this grape, that’s a bit hot.

The grapes come from Chile’s Elqui Valley and the Vicuna area. It sees about a half year in oak. It’s a decent value at $15. The acid was still pretty strong 24 hours after opening.

The wine has a nice mouth feel until you get to that finish. Carmenere is a great grape for wine exploration. It’s usually very affordable, a bigger wine, but with a nice big fruit component. The alcohol in this one will scare some people off. Nevertheless, it’s a good value and a decent introduction to Carmenere. This arrived as a trade sample with another Carmenere, I’ll be anxious to try the other!

(Falernia 2007 Reserva Carmenere, SRP $15, Trade Sample, No Recommendation)

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

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