Tag Archives: Pinot Noir

Oliver Sources High-End Grapes

31 Saturday Oct 2015

Posted by in Indiana, Midwestern States

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BLOOMINGTON, In, – Any discussion of Indiana wine has to always include Oliver Winery. The iconic Hoosier winery, synonymous with sweet wines, is Indiana’s biggest player on a big stage. Oliver is one of the nation’s biggest producers not located on the West Coast.

Bill Oliver, who took over from his pioneering father in the 1980s, has grown the winery and expanded the operation’s wine footprint beyond Soft Red and White wines. I spent a couple of hours Friday morning with Bill Oliver at the winery. He was cordial, excited about the future, and enthused about a new higher-end venture that might surprise a few wine purists.

Oliver chatting, tasting Chambourcin in the tasting room.

Oliver chatting, tasting Chambourcin in the tasting room.

Anyone dismissing Oliver Winery as ‘that sweet stuff’ is missing the mark. Yes, Oliver is a leader in sweet Concord red and Niagara white wines on a regional level and perhaps a national level in the next decade. But Oliver Winery is also producing very well-made wines from its nearby Creekbend Vineyard. Traminette, Vignoles, Chambourcin and more are featured at wineries across the state. But few, if any, are making those wines any better than Oliver.

The initial purpose of my visit was to talk to Oliver about his “Flight” series of wines featuring carefully sourced fruit from California vineyards. The current release getting lots of deserved attention is a 2013 Pinot Noir from the legendary Bien Nacido vineyard on California’s central coast. That name may not mean much to many wine drinkers but to real wine geeks Bien Nacido is one of the most sought-after vineyard designate wines in the Santa Barbara area.

Bill and I tasted wines with winemaker Dennis Dunham. We tasted the 2015 which had not even made it to the barrels yet. We sipped the 2014 which has seen its time in oak and now rests in stainless steel before bottling. And we tasted the mid-summer release of the 2013. I had previously tasted the 2013 and thought it was outstanding. The 2014 is going to be even better with a more extracted fruit flavor. It’s too early to tell on the 2015 juice.

The Oliver Bien Nacido Pinot sells almost exclusively in the Oliver tasting room for $45. That’s a big price jump for a winery known for the under-$10 sweet wines. But the solid Creekbend entries sell in the high-teen to mid-20s range. Oliver said one of the reasons to make the Pinot was to show people what his team could do with really great fruit.

An aside for the wine geeks, buying California fruit for Hoosier-made wine is nothing new for Oliver or many others. Oliver has access to some great California Central coast fruit and scored with his catch of Bien Nacido Pinot. It’s an expensive experiment but one the winemaker and owner clearly are enjoying.

At the other end of the spectrum is Oliver’s new Bubblecraft red and white wines. The $9 “fizz” is in the traditional Concord and Niagara grapes and in grocery stores already. Oliver produced and expects to sell about 10,000 cases this year with an expectation of nearly 25,000 cases in sales next year.

I have several story ideas from my time at Oliver today. Most of those will be posted or promoted here. There is even some bigger news coming from Bill Oliver not mentioned here.

Stay tuned.

Join Me for Drink & Eat Oregon

23 Monday Mar 2015

Posted by in Food & Travel, Newspaper Column 2015, Oregon

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When I started writing a wine column seven years ago there was no intention of getting into the wine tour business. But there is a desire among many to travel to wine country with all of the arrangements taken care of by an insider.

Grape Sense LogoWhile I won’t quite claim insider status just yet, my first trip of 2014 treated my eight guests to fabulous food, accommodations, and wine tasting with owners and winemakers.

The 2015 trip runs June 15-20, or five nights and four full days. Drink & Eat Oregon is designed for anyone with a wine interest. We’ll be drinking some of the best Pinot Noir along with Oregon’s signature Pinot Gris and emerging light-bodied Chardonnays.

Here is how the trip works. Participants are responsible for their own transportation to get to Portland, Oregon. A room will be reserved for each couple at a major downtown hotel. We being with a reception Monday night June 15 and then take off for the Willamette Valley the next morning. Once you arrive in Portland – all expenses are covered by the trip fee until the trip ends Saturday morning, June 20.

Our 2014 group on my first Oregon Pinot Noir tour.
The stunning Columbia River Gorge.
For my palate, Lange is one of Oregon’s most consistent producers.
A quick lunch of local ingredients at Lange.
Members of our group tasting Jesse Lange’s three soil series Pinots.

Again, all expenses – lodging, transportation, meals, wine tasting – are covered by the registration fee. The only thing not covered is the wine participants might purchase. That’s made easy too! You can have wine shipped home by the winery or join a wine club. Additionally, I cover the shipping costs, and all the handling, of one case of wine for each couple on the trip. You can buy a bottle or two here and there and your registration will cover the cost of having it delivered to your door.

Last year we visited Lange Estate, Winderlea, Domaine Drouhin, Vidon, Alexana, Saffron Fields, and Hawk’s View Cellars. We dined at McMinnville’s iconic Nick’s Italian Café and Recipe in Newberg.

Additionally, we take a break from all the wine tasting on Thursday and drive the stunning Columbia River Gorge. If you’ve never seen it, you are missing one of the most beautiful spots in the United States.

The cost per person is $2600, double occupancy. Just look for other similar trips and you’ll see it’s very reasonably priced for a boutique wine tour. As a matter of fact, when I checked search engines the closest thing I could find was a 3-day trip for $2700. A trip similar this one was $3800.

Besides the great tasting experiences led by winemakers and owners, I’ll be along to answer questions and give some insight on Oregon wine and the spots we visit.

You can find more information about the trip on my wine blog – www.howardhewit.net – at the top of the page just click on “Drink & Eat Oregon 2015.” You can write me with questions at: hewitthoward@gmail.com

I already have considerable interest on a potential trip to Burgundy, France, for next year.

Rose’, Pinot, & Idiot Legislature

27 Friday Feb 2015

Posted by in Food & Travel, Newspaper Column 2015, Oregon

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There are numerous websites and publications detailing everything happening in the world of wine. Sometimes those issues are worth sharing.

Grape Sense LogoIndiana Senate Bill 113 – The Indiana Direct Shipping bill remains in House committee. The bill would remove the ridiculous 2006 restriction on Indiana wineries requiring a face-to-face purchase before wine can be shipped in state.

CrazyThe bill is a double-edged sword opening up an important stream of revenue for small wineries but increasing the licensing fee from $100 to $500. Contact your local legislator asking the fee be restored to $100 as Sen. Phil Boots intended.

There’s a pattern here if you pay attention. The big alcohol related legislation of the session is Sunday sales but the same thing has happened. The legislation actually failed this week because the liquor lobby (read wholesalers/some retailers) objected. The bill was weighed down with the unruly burden of requiring supermarkets and drug stores to build walls. No one could make this stuff up.

RoseloresRose, How We Love Thee. Dry Rose, and particularly dry French Rose, is one of the biggest success stories of the last decade. For too long pink meant sweet but now pink, or a light salmon color, means great dry French wine.

For the 11th straight year exports to the U.S. of Provence Rose’ wine increased by double digits. In 2014, Rose exports went up 29 percent on volume.

Oregon Stature Grows. The last two years have established the importance of Oregon Pinot Noir above and beyond some of its founders wildest expectations. When the ‘big boys’ start buying up properties it’s easy to label Oregon Pinot a worldwide success story.

Domaine Drouhin started the foreign investment in the 1980s but recently it has exploded. Drouhin bought nearly 300 more acres of vineyard about a year ago. Louis Jadot more recently acquired a 32-acre vineyard and hopes to buy more.

Jackson Family Wines, probably better known to the average consumer as Kendall-Jackson, has purchased nearly 500 acres of Oregon vineyard in two separate acquisitions. They are operating a winery near Yamhill under the name Gran Moraine.

Joseph Wagner, think Caymus, has purchased the Elouan Brand while Bill Foley picked off 35,000 case boutique brand Four Graces.

The interest shows Oregon is making great wine and has a great future. The purists must continue to hope some of these big boys don’t destroy the boutique feel of the Willamette Valley.

Alexana winemaker Bryan Weil sharing barrel tastes.

Alexana winemaker Bryan Weil sharing barrel tastes.

Join Me on Oregon Tour. I’ll be hosting my second trip to Oregon’s Willamette Valley in June. It’s a five-night, four day boutique visit. We taste with winemakers and winery owners, stay in a fabulous bed and breakfast and eat in a couple of Oregon’s best restaurants. The trip is all inclusive one you arrive until you leave.

You can find full details of the wine trip on the Grape Sense blog (www.howardhewitt.net). Click the link at the top “Drink & Eat Oregon” for full details or write me at the address below.

Buy Your Winos a Decanter

24 Wednesday Dec 2014

Posted by in Aerators, Gizmos & Wine Gadgets, Holidays, Newspaper Column 2014

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Tis the season and holiday shoppers often find themselves grabbing last-minute gifts. If there is a wine drinker on your list pay attention – don’t buy them wine.

Grape Sense LogoThat’s right, for the serious red wine drinkers on your Santa sheet wine is probably not a good idea. Now, if you know wine and know the wine drinker well enough to understand what they really enjoy go ahead.

But every holiday season retail shops get bombarded with well-meaning customers wanting recommendations on wine as a gift. If you insist, there will be a few recommendations at the bottom of this column.

Instead of the fermented grape juice buy your friend or family member a great wine-related gift. There is one choice any wine drinker will appreciate and could use whether they know it or not. Almost any wine at any price point will benefit from decanting.

Decanters come at every imaginable price point. You can find a decanter at your local home store for around $20 or even less. You can shop the traditional wine glassware companies and pay more. You can buy a Riedel decanter at all price points all the way up to more than $1,000. The top end are hand blown in the original Austrian factory.

Decanters come at all price points.

Decanters come at all price points.

Wine is decanted to add oxygen and allow the wine to ‘open up’ after all of that time in the bottle. This is particularly true for young wines – inexpensive or pricey.

Purchase a decanter with a large bowl. Those work best. Decanting wine can also lead to lots of questions about sediment. Some sort of strainer is often necessary when decanting or serving the wine from the decanter, especially for older wines. That stuff won’t harm you but it’s going to be bitter. Many aerators come with some sort of filter to take care of that problem.

A young, lighter-style wine will really benefit from 30 minutes to an hour-long decant. A big red wine, like Cabernet, up to two hours. Some wine, like an Italian Sangrantino, may require several hours.

A great lesson in learning more about wine can coincide with the decanting process. First, open a bottle of wine and pour a taste. Make mental notes of what the wine was like. Then pour a small taste again an hour later. The wine will be different and probably better tasting, less astringency and more pronounced fruit.

Older wines often require less of a decant and more attention to sediment. The taste test is important to learn what works best for your palate.

Now, if you insist a bottle of wine is a nicer gift than glassware go ahead and buy a bottle or two. If you know your friend or family member really likes wine but you have no idea what to buy, play it safe. Pinot Noir at the $20 and up price point makes an excellent gift. If they drink white wine try finding an unoaked Chardonnay. There are many good labels of unoaked Chard around $15.

If you’re willing to splurge buy Pinot at the $40-$50 range for great wine. But French Chablis for the white drinkers at about the same cost.

Merry Christmas and a very Happy Holiday toast!

Host Holiday Party for Charity

18 Thursday Dec 2014

Posted by in Newspaper Column 2014, Oregon

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There is never a better time for a nice bottle of wine than around Christmas and New Year’s. Why not try something different and make your holiday party festive for your friends and helpful to a community cause?

Every community across our nation has a good a good cause or organization thatGrape Sense Logo can use your support. Recently a group of friends held a wine tasting, encouraged a set donation, and then made contributions to two different good causes. The group supported a local health clinic and a health care initiative in Oregon providing coverage for migrant vineyard workers.

Here is how it worked. The three leaders decided to pour Oregon wines since part of the proceeds would go to an Oregon-based charity. The wine lineup included two Pinot Gris wines under $20 and four Pinot Noirs. The Pinot Noir wines ranged from $22 to $55 a bottle.

Now the group has some real wine geeks and they provided the wine knowledge during each pour. We had a great lineup of small bites including flat breads, pâté and the usual assortment of cheese and crackers.

Talking about iSalud and Winderlea wine

Talking about iSalud and Winderlea wine

We used social media friends’ lists and personal connections to invite people to the wine tasting/philanthropy event. We had a spokesman for the local health clinic in our group. He gave a five-minute presentation on what the local clinic was all about and then it was back to the wine.

Essentially, it was a wine event for a good cause.

The organizers bore the cost of the wine and food, though we may look at a way of writing that into the cost in future events. What you can suggest as a donation is different in every community but our group gave $50 per person – all of which went to the two charities. We ended up with a nice-sized group for the evening and raised more than $700 to split between two charities.

You don’t need some “real wine geeks” to host a party either. Just generate some conversation about the wine. What did it smell like? What flavors do you taste? What do you like or dislike about the wine? What food would pair with the wine? Take a few moments and do an internet search on each wine you’re going to pour and you’ll find plenty of talking points.

And pick any wines you like at any price point but be sure to try something new and something different.

Our group is already planning ahead for February. The next event is shaping up to be big red winter wines and supporting local summer youth sports.

In seven years of wine writing the one thing I’ve learned over and over is people do want to know about wine and actually talk about wine. There is no better way to do it than in a festive social setting.

Great wine always leads to great conversation. When the combination can benefit a good cause, everyone comes out a winner.

Cheers!

Tasting Oregon to Tuscany

21 Saturday Jun 2014

Posted by in Food & Travel, Italy, Oregon

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SIENA, ITALY – From the lush green countryside of Oregon’s Willamette Valley to the majesty and golden valleys of Tuscany, a common refrain connects wine lovers. There’s nothing better than good food and good wine.

Grape Sense LogoGrape Sense’s first private wine tour, a five-day exploration of Oregon, was followed by a 10-day excursion in Italy’s Siena, Florence, and Rome. The first trip was private and wine/food focused while the current trip is about education and paying-job related. But in Italy there is no escaping the wine and food. And, who would want to do that any way?

In Italy the gracious ristorante and trattoria owners offer smiles, warmth, and endless platters of great food. A mid-week drive through the heart of Tuscany was time for a short lesson on Italian wine. The travel group of 20 seems to enjoy wine but wanted to understand Tuscany for its wine as well as its art and history. The college professor leading the tour handed me the touring coach microphone for a quick lesson.

It occurred to me as we resumed the ride, it’s a lesson that needs repeated.

The not-so-difficult hurdle to understanding Italian, for that matter French, wine is to understand geography. The Old World wine countries identifiy wines by region and not grape. If you’re having steak and want a nice big California Cabernet, you head to the wine shop and buy a Cabernet. But in Italy you might buy a Super Tuscan or Brunello – neither of those wines are a grape. But each are made from Sangiovese – the grape most identified with Europe’s boot.

I shot this vineyard photo about 10 mi. from Montalcino

I shot this vineyard photo about 10 mi. from Montalcino

Sangiovese dominates Tuscany and makes the Chianti, Chianti Classico, and Brunello wines. Sangiovese is usually blended with Cabernet, and sometimes a bit of Merlot or even Syrah, in the Super Tuscan wines.

In Italy’s Trattorias (think small restaurant) to the nice ristorantes the Rosso flows freely from the jug or pitcher. A Rosso is essentially a table wine and almost always Sangiovese. It’s not fair to over generalize Sangiovese as bottom of the barrel wine production, but who ever said we’d be fair.

The Rosso wines are pleasant enough and usually lighter than a Chianti with less acidity and less of the full dark cherry flavor of most Chianti. The quality varies greatly but it’s satisfying enough for the average tourist palate.

Our travel group enjoyed an unique picnic in Montalcino, a hilltop town in the very heart of Brunello – Sangiovese’s shining-moment wine.

We had a huge spread of crusty bread, salami, and Italy’s wonderful prosciutto and smoked prosciutto. We bought three different Brunello wines and a white to show our friends the difference between Italy’s entry level Rosso and its biggest star.

It was a big hit. Many had come to Italy expecting great wine at each meal and were slightly disappointed they had not found that. But now they’re spoiled and my work is complete!

But on a more serious note, there is nothing better than exploring everything a new wine region – whether it’s a state or country – has to offer. And when the opportunity arises, explore that wine region from its least to its best.

Chianti wines are widely available from the supermarket to wine shops. I always suggest trying the Chianti Classico which offers softer tannins and richer fruit for just a few dollars more. Great Classicos can be found at under $25. Brunello is king of the Tuscan mountains but substantially more expensive, starting at twice the per bottle cost of a good Classico.

We’re off to Florence as this is written and then Rome – more great wild boar sauce, pasta, beef, veal and Sangiovese await.

First Wine Tour Shapes Future Trips

15 Sunday Jun 2014

Posted by in Food & Travel, Oregon

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OREGON’S WILLAMETTE Valley – Flying home Saturday night, readying for a new adventure starting Monday, I’m reflecting on a debriefing session I had last night with the eight participants on my first wine tour.

Our five nights and four days in Oregon’s Willamette Valley were nothing short of spectacular and a rousing success. One member of the group went around the table asking couples on the trip if it had lived up to expectations and each said it was far more than they ever expected. That was rewarding.

What I learned from this group of friends is that I need to emphasize the wonderful food as much as the wine. Instead of Pinot Palooza, how about Drink & Eat Oregon?

I’ve also toyed with the idea of putting together a less costly version of this trip and after the evaluation I’m leaning strongly against it. The experience our group had in Oregon should be duplicated for others and not lessened to save a few hundred bucks a person on cost.

The fabulous Black Walnut Inn is unmatched in hospitality, location, and beauty. The views on top of the hill surrounded by vineyards, and a view of Mt. Hood on a clear day, is where I want to take groups.

The Oregon wine community hospitality was unmatched. The wine’s were off the charts. The food was simply unbelievable.
I’m going to try to get some posts, and a lot of photos, up over the next couple days from more of the trip. Meanwhile, I’m thinking I’ll repeat the trip next June and perhaps set up two trips on back to back weeks. I’ll continue to try to do the trip at 8 people, or four couples. I could do 10 but believe 8 is the perfect number. I’m going to set dates real soon and get that out for folks’ calendars.

And what happens after 2015? How about the trip of a lifetime in 2016 to France’s iconic Burgundy region? I’m also thinking about Paso Robles in the next two years.

Frankly, I couldn’t be more pleased that my first venture into wine tourism went so well!

Lange Pinot Seldom Disappoints

01 Saturday Feb 2014

Posted by in Oregon

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Jesse Lange, Lange Estate Vineyards, once told me that there really aren’t bad vintages, just years when you find out who can make wine!

Jesse Lange

Jesse Lange

The Oregon winemaker had a point beyond bravado. There have been some up and down vintages in the Willamette Valley just like there are in any wine growing wine regions in the world.

Initially, as I recall, the 2007 vintage was weak and only garnered a Wine Spectator 84 rating – the lowest in 10 years. I read a few mixed reviews about the 90-point 2009 wines but found them rich when I was in the valley shortly after the release, and again last night. Last night there was a silkiness to the mouth feel.

I had a couple bottles of the Lange 2009 Lange Estate Vineyard Pinot put away and opened one last night. I’m an admitted fan but last night’s glass was really great.

LangeWineIt was also the first time I had used my Riedel Oregon Pinot Noir glasses at home – and by golly they make a difference! I had a very experienced wine-drinking buddy over and walked him through the tasting of Pinot with the Riedel glass along with the Syrah and Cab model – he was equally impressed.

The wine had such a beautiful balance. It was just a tad floral, nice bright cherry and raspberry. I would definitely call it elegant wine.

Lange Estate Vineyard 2009 Pinot Noir, bought this off an internet flash site and had hard time tracking down retail – most Lange vineyard designate wines are $50-$60. Very Highly Recommended.

News From All Around the Wine World

12 Tuesday Mar 2013

Posted by in Wine Education/News/Updates

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There are many, many websites of wine news and opinion. In the past, I’ve occasionally posted stories I think are of great interest. With the launch of my new site, I want to do more of that. In the past I had a blog list but find I’d rather pick and choose the really good stuff to share. I’ll be your wine news editor, if you will.

These are largely stories about issues I’m familiar with or just find interesting.

I’ve heard vineyard owners talk time and again from Michigan to California, to Oregon about labor issues. Here is one of the best stories I’ve read on the topic form the Sacramento Bee.

This item caught my eye because it’s about Evening Land winery in Oregon. In the previous blog post I wrote that Evening Land Chardonnay was one of the best wines I tasted at the Mar. 7 “Pinot in the Windy City” event in Chicago. This Wine Spectator story is about change at Evening Land.

Millennial marketing is another interest of mine. Any time I see a story detailing the efforts of the wine industry to lure new, and specifically, younger wine drinkers I’m intriqued. Here is a great story on that effort from the San Francisco Chronicle.

And finally here is a voice you should be familiar with if you’re really interested in wine, Steve Heimoff. He has written for Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast. He tackles interesting topics and presents them in a clear manner – not always present in the wine blogosphere! This column is a bit geeky for the average drinker but of interest to some. Read Steve’s take on multiple-vineyard Pinot Noir.

Mondavi Carneros Pinot Noir is Surprisingly Good

27 Tuesday Nov 2012

Posted by in California, Napa/Sonoma

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Robert Mondavi = Napa Valley.

Robert Mondavi = Cabernet Sauvignon.

Robert Mondavi = California wine icon.

Now if we were playing a word association game all of those responses would be good ones if you mentioned the name of legendary winemaker and wine ambassador, Robert Mondavi.

But what if we offered this one – Robert Mondavi = Pinot Noir.

Huh? Pinot? Who? What? Why? Pinot Noir? Mondavi?

It might go something like that. Fair or not, Mondavi is associated with Cabernet or maybe his iconic white Fume Blanc (or Sauv Blanc, if you want to get technical.)

So when I received a 2010 Mondavi Pinot Noir sample I wasn’t skeptical, I just didn’t really know what to expect. Fair or not, not many people associate the great Mondavi name with Pinot. When we think of Pinot we think of the Sonoma Coast and the Russian River Valley.

Now, it’s also fair to say the Carneros region in Napa Valley was cool long before Pinot was cool when it comes to Pinot Noir.

I recently popped open the bottle and like, ‘wow dude, (or dudette), this is good Pinot!’

Okay, it has 7 percent Russian River Valley fruit to complement the Carneros but it’s very nice Pinot. The grapes hare hand picked, it sees about one-third new oak barrels, and the wine is still pretty young.

I loved the really nice spicy, soft black fruit flavor. The wine was marvelously balanced and smooth. It had hints of a forest floor and a few fall pumpkin pie spices. It was beautiful wine.

I’ve written before that we take the icons for granted. I tasted five or six $100-plus Mondavi Cabs earlier this year and was really impressed with the consistency and quality. This little $27 Pinot is a welcome brother to the winery’s better known bottles!

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com