Tag Archives: Oregon

Lange Pinot Seldom Disappoints

01 Saturday Feb 2014

Posted by in Oregon

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

, , , ,

Jesse Lange, Lange Estate Vineyards, once told me that there really aren’t bad vintages, just years when you find out who can make wine!

Jesse Lange

Jesse Lange

The Oregon winemaker had a point beyond bravado. There have been some up and down vintages in the Willamette Valley just like there are in any wine growing wine regions in the world.

Initially, as I recall, the 2007 vintage was weak and only garnered a Wine Spectator 84 rating – the lowest in 10 years. I read a few mixed reviews about the 90-point 2009 wines but found them rich when I was in the valley shortly after the release, and again last night. Last night there was a silkiness to the mouth feel.

I had a couple bottles of the Lange 2009 Lange Estate Vineyard Pinot put away and opened one last night. I’m an admitted fan but last night’s glass was really great.

LangeWineIt was also the first time I had used my Riedel Oregon Pinot Noir glasses at home – and by golly they make a difference! I had a very experienced wine-drinking buddy over and walked him through the tasting of Pinot with the Riedel glass along with the Syrah and Cab model – he was equally impressed.

The wine had such a beautiful balance. It was just a tad floral, nice bright cherry and raspberry. I would definitely call it elegant wine.

Lange Estate Vineyard 2009 Pinot Noir, bought this off an internet flash site and had hard time tracking down retail – most Lange vineyard designate wines are $50-$60. Very Highly Recommended.

Looking into 2014 Crystal Ball

06 Monday Jan 2014

Posted by in Newspaper Column 2014

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

, , , ,

crystal-ball

The only good thing about looking forward at the start of the year is no one remembers your predictions a week or so later. That said, there are lots of trends and movement in the wine world which will have an impact on the average wine drinker.

Grape Sense LogoFor the first Grape Sense of 2014, it makes sense to look ahead a bit.

Moscato – That sweet white wine that seems to be everywhere is exploding. But that’ s not news since it all started in 2012. Sales increased by a third in 2012 with little sign of letting up in 2013. The light alcohol and light fizz has proven wildly popular with younger consumers.

From hip-hop artists to long-time sweet wine lovers, Moscato has become the go-to beverage. California is providing most of the sweet white but look for other labels to join the band wagon. Furthermore, check out your local grocery, wine shop, or liquor store shelves and you’ll find major labels offering a variety of sweet wines.

Red wine blends are another area continuing to expand and grow. A good red wine blend can go from the inoffensive to nuanced and satisfying to even the most discerning wine drinker. Better yet, you can often get big bold flavors from a good California or Washington blend at a fraction of the cost of single variety wines. Red wine blends offer some of the best value options for better wine.

The biggest sales growth areas are Moscato, sweet red blends, and Malbec. Malbec is a great intro point for those trying to expand beyond Cabernet, Merlot and Pinot Noir. It’s a great food wine and a wonderful way to start exploring beyond your normal tastes.

wineappMillenials and apps have been the talking points for much of the wine media over the last few years. Younger people are the fastest growing segment of the wine-buying population. They do drink sweeter wines but they are also very willing to try something new.

The younger section of the market is also driving wineries, marketers, and everyone else in the wine business to go more digital. There are smart-phone applications to find wine, rate wine, and journal your own wine drinking.

Packaging is another area where innovation continues to push the market. Wine is turning up on shelves, particularly value wine, in single servings, all shapes of paper and glass containers, and other new ways to supplant the 750ml bottle.

wine-celeb_ticketsand Indiana to get the world’s attention with its small production of wine. But the quality of the ‘other states’ wines continue to improve. Each year I visit quite a few Indiana wineries, and a few in surrounding states, the quality continues to show considerable improvement. It’s not just the top producers but some of the smaller state wineries have learned to focus on quality.

Wine travel is a great vacation and another industry that just grows and grow. I will be joining that trend in 2014 by leading a boutique-type experience in Oregon’s Willamette Valley in June. Whether it’s a trip you plan yourself or an organized wine adventure, the internet has really made it easy to plan a great wine vacation. Click here if you’d like information on the Oregon trip I’m hosting or simply to add your name to my mailing list for future trips.

Happy New Year to all. Thank you for reading Grape Sense!

Chardonnay Oregon’s Next Thing?

03 Monday Jun 2013

Posted by in Oregon

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

, , , , , ,

Does the wine world need another great Chardonnay region? California has the great big buttery, woodsy Chards while Chablis brings the mineral and acid. There is virtually every style in between from regions across the globe.

Grape Sense LogoOregon has made its name with Pinot Noir and the white Pinot Gris. Now there are those who think Chardonnay is the next big thing in northwest wine.

“I think Oregon is really well suited for Chardonnay,” said Bill Sweat, Winderlea Winery. “Chardonnay does better in cooler climates. You get that great acidity and brightness, floral notes, the kind of flavors White Burgundy lovers go after.”

Ironically, when the wine drinkers learned Oregon’s Pinot Noir rivaled some of the best in the world some grape growers actually pulled Chardonnay to plant more Pinot. Chardonnay acreage dropped 25 percent between 1995 and 2001 while Pinot Noir and Gris nearly doubled. The original Oregon Chardonnay problem was the wine just wasn’t very good. It was all a matter of getting the right vines.

Penner-Ash, Lynn lo“When I first started in Chardonnay we only hand one clone,” said Lynn Penner-Ash, who has her own winery and consults with others in winemaking. “Now we’re seeing transition to the Dijon clone with better placement and better vineyard management.

The Chardonnays coming out of Oregon now are better and better – much better than early years.” Talking Chardonnay with Oregon producers is all about getting the right vines and a lesson in terroir. Most producers agreed the move away from the original vines to the Dijon vines made a world of difference.

Sweat

Sweat

“We originally started with some Chardonnay in the vineyard that didn’t do very well,” said Sweat. “But for the last 15 years we’ve been able to bring in some selections from France and they’re doing beautifully. “I’d say Oregon winemakers are making Chard that tends to skew more toward the elegant style. That has to do with the fruit itself. It’s not going to get as ripe as it would in a warmer climate.”

At a March tasting in Chicago, many vintners were promoting their Chards with enthusiasm normally reserved for Pinot Noir.

Lange, Jesse lo“Whether its stainless steel or wood fermenting, I think stylistically our wines have an identy of freshness of fruit where the wood balances the wine but never overtakes it,” offered Jesse Lange, Lange Family Estate. “In terms of its attention – grabbing headlines for the Willamette Valley – I think it has really taken off. I think we’re on the cusp of something big.”

Howard’s Picks: Most of the Oregon producers are making small quantities of Chardonnay but you can find a few in better wine shops. The wines compare favorably to traditionally styled Chablis. The price points are in the $20-$30 range. The best at the Chicago event, and previous tastings in Oregon, were the producers mentioned in this story. The best Chard at the pouring was Evening Land Chardonnay from the Eola-Amity Hills region of the Valley.

Grenache Blanc Great White Alternative

06 Monday May 2013

Posted by in Newspaper Column 2013, Oregon

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

, , ,

If the same old Chardonnay, Riesling, or Pinot Grigio is getting you down, try something different.

Grape Sense LogoItalian Vermentino, Argentina’s Torontos, and Spain’s Macabeo are great whites with different flavor profiles. Grenache Blanc is the fourth-most planted white wine grape in France and becoming more popular each year as a single varietal wine. It’s often used in traditional Rhone and Southern France blends. It’s also a great alternative to the usual suspects.

Tablas Creek, Paso Robles, has championed Rhone whites for years. Oregon’s Joe Dobbes has become a huge fan and terrific producer more recently.

“I was making a Rhone blend for one of my Southern Oregon customers,” Dobbes explained during a Chicago marketing event. “It was Marsanne, Rousanne, Viognier and Grenache Blanc.  Lo and behold, they had two tons of Grenache Blanc left over and said ‘Hey Joe, do you want it?”

That’s been a few years ago and now Dobbe’s Family Estate Grenache Blanc sells out each year. “I wanted to be first one to say let’s hang our hat on this grape. As a winemaker, I’m always trying to do something new and different, right? Oregon is known for Pinot Noir and we have some beautiful wines in Southern Oregon. But the Grenache Blanc came along and I thought ‘what’s the risk for a couple of tons of grapes?’

Joe Dobbes

Joe Dobbes

“I want rich full-flavored, varietal fruit in my whites. I started in Germany in in 1985 and those white aromatics really helped formulate me. The Grenache Blanc is made “with no new barrels, no malolactic fermentation, and no filtration. The wine has great clarity and great richness in the mouth.

“The quintessential wine has great mouth feel, specifically whites, and beautiful fruit with great acidity. “I think this wine has all three.”

Dobbes looked at the landscape and saw Oregon winemakers selling Pinot Noir, most with a Pinot Gris but not many other choices. “I got tired of having to sell my Dobbes luxury label at a discount and thought we were going in the wrong direction. We decided to hang our hat a bit on Grenache Blanc, a specialty wine for a high-end retailer or restaurant. You’re not going to see this everywhere.”

The wine retails from Dobbes’ tasting room at $26.

The veteran winemaker acknowledged people are always looking for something different. “So we offer them some unique, fruity, esoteric whites. We’re also about Pinot Noir. Now Oregon winemakers are asking me where they can get Grenache Blanc, and I say … well, you can’t.”

Dobbes buys all of the Grenache Blanc available from the one producer who has six acres in Southern Oregon – the state’s entire production! Dobbes most popular label, ‘Wines by Joe,’ is widely available.

It might be easier to find Grenache Blanc from a California producer; still there are only 159 acres in the country’s biggest wine-producing state. The wine is characterized by its crisp acidity and often hints of green apple, orange, peach and minerality.

Besides Dobbes and Tablas Creek, try a Domaine Virgile Joly Grenache Blanc widely available in the Midwest and East Coast. Price points range from mid-teens to mid-$20 for these dynamic white wines.

White Pinot – Different, Expensive

16 Saturday Mar 2013

Posted by in Oregon

≈ 3 Comments

Tags

, , , , ,

Many serious wine drinkers are serious Pinotphiles. Count me among the serious Pinot Noir junkies when it comes to great wine.

That’s partially why I couldn’t resist trying Domaine Serene‘s Coeur Blanc in the summer of 2011 while visiting Oregon’s Willamette Valley.

The Coeur Blanc is Pinot Noir – but it’s white wine!

A handful of Oregon wineries have experimented with turning Pinot to a rich and smooth white wine. Read Ryan Reichert’s story here from Palate Press.

A shot taken during my 2011 visit.

A shot taken during my 2011 visit.

Domaine Serene is largely credited as one of the pioneers of white Pinot Noir. I tasted it for the first time during that 2011 stop and was taken by just how much I enjoyed it. On the nose, it smells like a light and red Pinot Noir. On the palate it tastes like a very light bodied pinot but with an unusual richness and mouth feel.

It doesn’t have much acid but different should be different. It’s lovely wine!

coeur blanc“I like creating a white wine like this on the feminine side of things, polished, with richness and creaminess,” Domaine Serene winemaker Erik Kramer told the Eugene Register-Guard. “It’s a special wine for us. You have the varietal character of a pinot noir, but above all, the texture is that of a white wine.”

It’s a light gold color with a very faint hint of pink, almost salmon. This is not inexpensive wine and I’m not sure it’s worth the price but it’s definitely different than any white wine you’ve ever tried.

On Cellartracker and other sites, I found it ranging from $75-$95. My memory is that I paid $80 for this wine. The suggested retail price on the current 2010 release is $85.

Domaine Serene Coeur Blanc, $85, Very Highly Recommended, – for those who can afford it and love trying something different!

Oregon Wine Keeps Raising the Bar!

10 Sunday Mar 2013

Posted by in Oregon

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

, , , , , , , , , , ,

Thursday's Tasting Mob at Chicago's City Winery

Thursday’s Tasting Mob at Chicago’s City Winery

Oregon wine long ago found its niche on the world stage as a home for great Pinot Noir. That reputation is growing as the wines become more widely available.

A tasting Thursday in downtown Chicago proved the wines are getting better. I’ve visited the Willamette Valley several times and find the wines improve with each visit.

More than 60 Oregon wine producers poured for 500 trade and media members Thursday afternoon and another 500 that night to customers shelling out $65 a person.

Many Oregon wineries, particularly the better boutique efforts, sell all of each year’s vintage. Jesse Lange, a winemaker who has always treated us like a friend, noted his winery has increased production nearly 10,000 cases the last five years.

The tasting was spectacular. Most of these wines are widely available in Midwestern states but not in huge supply. Obviously, the Willamette Valley Wineries Association thought it was time to expand Oregon’s presence in the Midwest with the first-ever Chicago event.

I managed to get to many different tables and still missed out on many I had never before visited. I do have quite a bit of material to use for future print stories and the blog.

Most of the wines listed here are top shelf offerings. After all, who wants to taste the entry level bottles at a tasting? Here are some of the real winners I tasted:

David Adelsheim

Adelsheim

Adelsheim 2010 Elizabeth’s Reserve Pinot Noir – It’s always safe and smart to turn to a region’s pioneers for a great bottle of wine. Big fruit, nice strawberry, and incredible balance make this one worth $55.

Bergstrom

Bergstrom

Bergstrom Sigrid 2011 Chardonnay – Karen Bergstrom defines this wine the “very best of the best” from their vineyards. It was bright and fresh Chardonnay. $80

Crumbled Rock 2010 Julliard Vineyard Pinot Noir – I tasted the Crumbled Rock wine in 2007 from their first vintage as winemakers. Gerard Koschal, owner and winemaker, had been growing and selling grapes for some time before making wine. That first vintage, released in 07, was more unremarkable than memorable. So it was a delightful surprise to be blown away by their beautifully wine in Chicago. $35.

Evening Land 2010 Mad Hatter Chardonnay – Brace yourself regular readers, the Evening Land might have been THE best wine I tasted all day. Largely whole cluster Chardonnay with Chablis-like characteristics of acid and minerality. It might have also been the most surprising wine I’ve tasted from Oregon. Without mentioning names, this was a wine more than one producer said I must taste. They were right. $40.

Dobbes

Dobbes

Joe Dobbes Grenache Blanc – Hobbes is a winemaker and consultant who wanted to use his experience to do something different. He is buying all of the grenache blanc grown in Oregon from the southern Rogue Valley and making a light, spectacular version of the southern French classic. If you’re unfamiliar with Grenache Blanc, one critic suggested thinking of Pinot Gris with more richness. I’d agree. I loved this wine! $26

Lange

Lange

Lange 2011 Reserve Pinot Noir – It’s simply one of the most consistent wines, at a reasonable price, you can find at the price point from Oregon. Full disclaimer: Regular readers know I’m a Lange fan. Jesse and Don have always been available and accomodating during my visits to the valley. But their wines just get better and better. Don wasn’t one of the original pioneers, but his name belongs right beside them. $32

Penner-Ash

Penner-Ash

Penner-Ash 2011 Dussin Vineyard Pinot Noir – A classic bottle of Oregon Pinot with nice big fruit and the balance of one of Oregon’s great, great winemakers – Lynn Penner-Ash. $65.

Sweat

Sweat

Winderlea 2009 Ana Vineyard Pinot Noir – Winderlea makes the term ’boutique winery’ work every time you taste their wines. Bill Sweat and Donna Morris produce just 2,000-3,000 cases annually but they make gorgeous Pinot and wonderful Chardonnay. The Ana Vineyard is classic Oregon. $48

Two Great Glasses (or more) of Awesome Wine

15 Thursday Nov 2012

Posted by in California, Napa/Sonoma, Oregon

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

, , , ,

Oregon’s Willamette Valley view from Penner Ash

Is there anything better for those of us who love wine than a really, really great glass of juice?

I do taste a lot of wine at price points up to $100, I’d guess. I buy some wine in the $40-$60 range and just a few a bit higher. I opened two great wines this weekend that just lights the inner fire to share these great labels and names with those who read my wine writing.

Both wines originated in iconic U.S. wine regions – Napa Cab and Oregon Pinot Noir – and they rocked!

Sattui sits at the north end of Napa on Highway 29

V. Sattui 2007 Mt. Veeder Napa Cabernet -This wine comes from one of Napa’s most unique producers. V. Sattui, one of the region’s oldest wineries, only sells its wine from the tasting room or online sales through its website. It is one of the most visited wineries in Napa.

I tasted through several of their wines during a March 2012 visit. The wines were consistently good. I remember liking a Zinfandel quite a bit before we got to the Cabs. The higher end Cabernet was excellent. I narrowed it down to a couple and purchased a bottle of the Mt. Veeder Cab for $48 which is now listed on their website for $53.

The wine is rich and supple with uber smooth tannins, hints of all sorts of dark fruit like cherry and currants. It is a bit softer than many Napa Cabs which is part of its attraction.

Mt Veeder is one of the premier appellations in the region. Here is a great description from weine-searcher.com:

The eponymous Mount Veeder peak is 2700ft (825m) high, and marks the boundary between Napa and Sonoma counties. The appellation’s highest vineyards lie on a south-west-facing slope just below the summit, and stretch up to 2630ft (800m). 

Located five miles (8km) north-west of Sonoma town and half that distance again from Napa town, Mount Veeder lies equidistant from the two valleys which are arguably the most important in the United States.

This young lady appeared as we finished tasting!

The bottom line is absolutely great Cabernet at a half, or less, the price of many premier Napa Cabs. V. Sattui is a good stop for any first time Napa visitor. They have large deli where all sorts of cheese and other foods are available. There is plenty of room outside to have your own picnic. Some snobs turn their collective noses up at places like V. Sattui but it’s perfect for the first time visitor. The staff was very friendly and knowledable during my visit.

They also have a little fun. Plenty of tasting rooms are very welcoming. But many of the upper end wineries certainly can come off as a bit snobbish. The people here depend on tasting room sales and they know. Staffers make the tasting room experience fun.

V. Sattui 2007 Mt. Veeder Napa Cab, $53, Highly Recommended

Penner Ash 2009 Dussin Vineyard Pinot Noir – I love Pinot Noir and have grown very, very fond of Oregon Pinot. I opened this with a good friend who really appreciates Pinot and we were both just blown away.

I picked up this bottle during a summer 2012 visit at the Willamette Valley winery. Lynn Penner-Ash is certainly an icon in Oregon winemaking. This is the top of her line of great wines. They are widely available (including in Indiana.) You might have trouble finding this particular bottle but her other offerings are worth a search.

This is a small production wine with usual production around 500 cases. The 2010 is the only Dussin Vineyard on the Penner Ash website and it’s listed for $60. My memory fails me but I felt like I paid closer to $70 for this bottle. It was worth every hard-earned nickel.

Penner Ash tasting room action.

Wine Spectator gave the wine 92 points and I couldn’t agree more. I might even go a point or two higher. The wine is almost floral with it’s rich and silky dark fruit. It’s very smooth and enjoyable on the palate with the depth and complexity a serious wine drinker would expect at this price point.

The 2008 Oregon vintage was hailed as one of best in years. I tasted the 2009 early after release and was generally unimpressed. But when I tasted the ’09s a summer ago was really taken by the bold fruit and silky qualities.

Frankly, I have several favorite Willamette Valley producers and this bottle added Penner Ash to the list. There are lower entry points for price and they are worth a try. This particular wine is a great example of how you can buy awesome Pinot Noir without paying Burgundy prices.

Penner Ash 2009 Dussin Vineyard Pinot Noir, $60, Very Highly Recommended.

All photos in this post by my friend Drew Casey, who is now a tasting room associate at Chateau St. Jean in California’s Sonoma County.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Drouhin’s Oregon Pinot Noir One of Very Best

28 Saturday Jul 2012

Posted by in Oregon

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

, , , ,

The Oregon Vineyards of Domaine Drouhin

Most wine drinkers have a bottle or two – or many – stashed away for a special occasion. While much can be said for popping one open on a Tuesday night just because you ARE special, we do tend to squirrel them away with a purpose.

I had such a purpose this week for a friend who will be moving out of town for a year. Patrick is my best wine buddy. We normally taste something at least once a week so he will be missed.

In Patrick’s honor I went to the storage system and snooped around and decided on a Domaine Drouhin 07 Laurene Pinot Noir. I picked this up in the summer of 2011 while visiting the Willamette Valley and the gorgeous Drouhin winery.

Here are some photos from that day in the valley. Photos include stops at Domaine Serene, Winderlea, and Sokol Blosser, three more great Oregon wineries

Simply put, the Laurene was one of the best Oregon Pinots I’ve ever enjoyed. I think Patrick might agree. The 07 Oregon vintage has gotten a lot of press for its up and down quality as its aged. But tasting the 07 wines last year was a real job. I was actually in Oregon when most of the 07 vintage was released and there wasn’t much to like, though I didn’t visit Drouhin.

Last summer the 07 Pinot Noir really came to life. The 07 Laurene is Domaine Drouhin’s top bottling. It doesn’t come cheap at $75 a bottle, though I did find it as low as $57 on the internet.

The wine had wonderful complex fruit much more pronounced that some wines of any vintage. There was lovely dark cherry but with a bright freshness you only get in the best Pinot wines. It had strong but well-balanced acid which would have been perfect for some sockeye salmon or steelhead trout. But when I open a Pinot of this quality I just want to sip it. Maybe a little matching chocolate with this Pinot but it should be savored.

I didn’t even have to look to guess the critics liked this wine, but I did. Josh Reynolds of Tanzer gave it 90 points. “Brisk, finely etched red fruit flavors carry no excess weight and gain intensity with air. The lingering finish echoes the strawberry and blood orange notes.” That geeky enough for you?

Robert Parker scored the wine 91 points, Wine Spectator agreed with the 91 score, and the Burghound jumped it up to 93 points.

Again, the price point will scare off many and I understand that. But this is a great example of you get what you pay for.

Domaine Drouhin 2007, SRP $75, Very Highly Recommended


Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Re-visiting Ladies at Republic of Jam in Willamette Valley

09 Monday Jul 2012

Posted by in Oregon

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

, ,

Any travel to wine country turns up some real gems when you look beyond the glass and check out the businesses around the tasting rooms and what wine country has to offer beyond the juice.

Lynnette talking jam with me.

One of my best all-time non-wine discoveries in wine country occurred last year in the Willamette Valley. At the insistence of a wine writing friend, Ryan Reichert, I made sure to stop at the Republic of Jam in Carlton.

 I had a bunch sent home and have found some great uses for their unique products. The jams will work on a piece of toast but best when used more creatively. The jams are not your traditional sweet jams. For example, I love to put their Spiced Strawberry Pinot Noir jam on a dab of goat cheese on a cracker.

I wrote about the experience the day I visited, which you can read here.

But I also did a quick video interview I had hoped to use as part of another project that never materialized. I’ve been posting of few of those videos here in recent weeks. This is the last of those vids.

Check out Lynnette Shaw and Amy Wilder’s chat about Republic of Jam.


Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Vidon One of Oregon’s Great Boutique Wineries

23 Saturday Jun 2012

Posted by in Oregon, Uncategorized

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

, , , ,

A few weeks back I started posting a few of the individual videos I had shot while in Oregon last summer.

Don Hagge .. Apollo Engineer and now a winemaker.

These were videos I shot for a full Oregon feature for a national online site that didn’t pan out. I wrote several pieces about my visits, the winemakers, the region, and the wine. But the videos sat untouched until earlier this year.

I have two more and should have gotten them up by now. These two are arguably the most interesting stops of my four days in the Willamette Valley.

First up today is Don Hagge of Vidon Vineyards. I wrote about meeting Don the day we met him. He has such an interesting background story that I mention in that blog post. He also makes some of the most fabulous Pinot Noir you’ll sample in the valley.

What really got us on our trip is we asked at two or three different wineries what spot we should visit not on our agenda. Nearly everyone, knowing we were seeking small boutique wineries, said we just had to go see Don.

The video is most unedited – just clipped at the beginning and end. It gives you more of a feel for being there and chatting with the winemaker.


Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com