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Howard W. Hewitt

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Howard W. Hewitt

Tag Archives: Lynn Penner-Ash

Chardonnay Oregon’s Next Thing?

03 Monday Jun 2013

Posted by Howard in Oregon

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Bill Sweat, Chardonnay, Jesse Lange, Lange Estate Winery, Lynn Penner-Ash, Oregon, Winderlea

Does the wine world need another great Chardonnay region? California has the great big buttery, woodsy Chards while Chablis brings the mineral and acid. There is virtually every style in between from regions across the globe.

Grape Sense LogoOregon has made its name with Pinot Noir and the white Pinot Gris. Now there are those who think Chardonnay is the next big thing in northwest wine.

“I think Oregon is really well suited for Chardonnay,” said Bill Sweat, Winderlea Winery. “Chardonnay does better in cooler climates. You get that great acidity and brightness, floral notes, the kind of flavors White Burgundy lovers go after.”

Ironically, when the wine drinkers learned Oregon’s Pinot Noir rivaled some of the best in the world some grape growers actually pulled Chardonnay to plant more Pinot. Chardonnay acreage dropped 25 percent between 1995 and 2001 while Pinot Noir and Gris nearly doubled. The original Oregon Chardonnay problem was the wine just wasn’t very good. It was all a matter of getting the right vines.

Penner-Ash, Lynn lo“When I first started in Chardonnay we only hand one clone,” said Lynn Penner-Ash, who has her own winery and consults with others in winemaking. “Now we’re seeing transition to the Dijon clone with better placement and better vineyard management.

The Chardonnays coming out of Oregon now are better and better – much better than early years.” Talking Chardonnay with Oregon producers is all about getting the right vines and a lesson in terroir. Most producers agreed the move away from the original vines to the Dijon vines made a world of difference.

Sweat

Sweat

“We originally started with some Chardonnay in the vineyard that didn’t do very well,” said Sweat. “But for the last 15 years we’ve been able to bring in some selections from France and they’re doing beautifully. “I’d say Oregon winemakers are making Chard that tends to skew more toward the elegant style. That has to do with the fruit itself. It’s not going to get as ripe as it would in a warmer climate.”

At a March tasting in Chicago, many vintners were promoting their Chards with enthusiasm normally reserved for Pinot Noir.

Lange, Jesse lo“Whether its stainless steel or wood fermenting, I think stylistically our wines have an identy of freshness of fruit where the wood balances the wine but never overtakes it,” offered Jesse Lange, Lange Family Estate. “In terms of its attention – grabbing headlines for the Willamette Valley – I think it has really taken off. I think we’re on the cusp of something big.”

Howard’s Picks: Most of the Oregon producers are making small quantities of Chardonnay but you can find a few in better wine shops. The wines compare favorably to traditionally styled Chablis. The price points are in the $20-$30 range. The best at the Chicago event, and previous tastings in Oregon, were the producers mentioned in this story. The best Chard at the pouring was Evening Land Chardonnay from the Eola-Amity Hills region of the Valley.

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Oregon Wine Keeps Raising the Bar!

10 Sunday Mar 2013

Posted by Howard in Oregon

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Adelsheim, Bergstrom, Crumbled Rock, Evening Land, Jesse Lange, Joe Dobbes, Lange, Lynn Penner-Ash, Oregon, Penner Ash, Willamette Valley, Winderlea

Thursday's Tasting Mob at Chicago's City Winery

Thursday’s Tasting Mob at Chicago’s City Winery

Oregon wine long ago found its niche on the world stage as a home for great Pinot Noir. That reputation is growing as the wines become more widely available.

A tasting Thursday in downtown Chicago proved the wines are getting better. I’ve visited the Willamette Valley several times and find the wines improve with each visit.

More than 60 Oregon wine producers poured for 500 trade and media members Thursday afternoon and another 500 that night to customers shelling out $65 a person.

Many Oregon wineries, particularly the better boutique efforts, sell all of each year’s vintage. Jesse Lange, a winemaker who has always treated us like a friend, noted his winery has increased production nearly 10,000 cases the last five years.

The tasting was spectacular. Most of these wines are widely available in Midwestern states but not in huge supply. Obviously, the Willamette Valley Wineries Association thought it was time to expand Oregon’s presence in the Midwest with the first-ever Chicago event.

I managed to get to many different tables and still missed out on many I had never before visited. I do have quite a bit of material to use for future print stories and the blog.

Most of the wines listed here are top shelf offerings. After all, who wants to taste the entry level bottles at a tasting? Here are some of the real winners I tasted:

David Adelsheim

Adelsheim

Adelsheim 2010 Elizabeth’s Reserve Pinot Noir – It’s always safe and smart to turn to a region’s pioneers for a great bottle of wine. Big fruit, nice strawberry, and incredible balance make this one worth $55.

Bergstrom

Bergstrom

Bergstrom Sigrid 2011 Chardonnay – Karen Bergstrom defines this wine the “very best of the best” from their vineyards. It was bright and fresh Chardonnay. $80

Crumbled Rock 2010 Julliard Vineyard Pinot Noir – I tasted the Crumbled Rock wine in 2007 from their first vintage as winemakers. Gerard Koschal, owner and winemaker, had been growing and selling grapes for some time before making wine. That first vintage, released in 07, was more unremarkable than memorable. So it was a delightful surprise to be blown away by their beautifully wine in Chicago. $35.

Evening Land 2010 Mad Hatter Chardonnay – Brace yourself regular readers, the Evening Land might have been THE best wine I tasted all day. Largely whole cluster Chardonnay with Chablis-like characteristics of acid and minerality. It might have also been the most surprising wine I’ve tasted from Oregon. Without mentioning names, this was a wine more than one producer said I must taste. They were right. $40.

Dobbes

Dobbes

Joe Dobbes Grenache Blanc – Hobbes is a winemaker and consultant who wanted to use his experience to do something different. He is buying all of the grenache blanc grown in Oregon from the southern Rogue Valley and making a light, spectacular version of the southern French classic. If you’re unfamiliar with Grenache Blanc, one critic suggested thinking of Pinot Gris with more richness. I’d agree. I loved this wine! $26

Lange

Lange

Lange 2011 Reserve Pinot Noir – It’s simply one of the most consistent wines, at a reasonable price, you can find at the price point from Oregon. Full disclaimer: Regular readers know I’m a Lange fan. Jesse and Don have always been available and accomodating during my visits to the valley. But their wines just get better and better. Don wasn’t one of the original pioneers, but his name belongs right beside them. $32

Penner-Ash

Penner-Ash

Penner-Ash 2011 Dussin Vineyard Pinot Noir – A classic bottle of Oregon Pinot with nice big fruit and the balance of one of Oregon’s great, great winemakers – Lynn Penner-Ash. $65.

Sweat

Sweat

Winderlea 2009 Ana Vineyard Pinot Noir – Winderlea makes the term ’boutique winery’ work every time you taste their wines. Bill Sweat and Donna Morris produce just 2,000-3,000 cases annually but they make gorgeous Pinot and wonderful Chardonnay. The Ana Vineyard is classic Oregon. $48

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Oregon, Provence Wines Big Hit

08 Friday Mar 2013

Posted by Howard in Oregon

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David Adelsheim, Jean-Jacquies Breban, Jesse Lange, Lynn Penner-Ash, Pinot in the Windy City, Provence, Willamette Valley Wineries, Winderlea Winery

CHCIAGO, Il. – As trade events go, Thursday was a smash hit. The Willamette Valley wineries created a standing room only response during their first trip to Chicago.

Organizers said 500 trade (wine importers, wholesalers, retailers, and wine press) members registered and crowded into City Winery on the city’s near downtown west side.

Even more impressive was the 500 registered for the public tasting event Thursday night at $65 per person.

Penner-Ash

Penner-Ash

I was able to interview some old Oregon friends and several I’ve always wanted to meet. I chatted with Lynn Penner-Ash, David Adelsheim, and John Bergstrom among others.

Oregon Pinot Noir has established a standard that almost never disappoints. The wines were amazing. I talked with many of those folks and others about the emergency – or continued emergency – of Oregon Chardonnay.

After catching up with old friends Jesse Lange, Bill and Donna of Winderlea, and David Milliman of Drouhin, I dashed across town to the Provence tasting.

Breban

Breban

The most amazing thing about the wonderful Provence wines is the price point. Fabulous Rose’ can cost as little as $12-$18. I had the chance to interview Jean-Jacquies Breban, President of the Provence Wine Council about Rose’ booming popularlity in the US and what that means to producers back in France.

I have notes on some labels to explore and specific great wines I tasted I’ll get up in next few days. I remain on the road for my real job for a couple more days.

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To Bordeaux and burgundy for this weeks Saturday Sipps at the Wine Shop, 11-4 pm. Taste these great wines and you can buy them Saturday only for 20% off.
Panko, breaded, shrimp and Michigan, Leelanau, peninsula, Shady Lane cellars” Chardonnay. Pretty great small dinner after a night at the Wine Shop. #shadylanecellars

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