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Howard W. Hewitt

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Howard W. Hewitt

Tag Archives: Chile

Rich Red, Smooth White for Weekend

04 Sunday Aug 2013

Posted by Howard in Napa/Sonoma, South America

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Carmen, Carmenere, Chile, Equilibrium, Franciscan

I enjoyed two interesting wines with guests Saturday that often scare me off. Most Califorinia (not all) white blends are often too rich, and a tad to softn (sometimes sweet) for my palate. The other was a Chilean Carmenere. I’ve certainly tasted many Carmenere wines but most were a little rough around the edges.

These two wines may change my mind about pre-conceived notions!

carmenereCarmen 2010 Gran Reserva Carmenere – Delicious, rich raspberry and a smooth-mouth feel start to finish is what I’ve been looking for in Carmenere. Carmen delivers!

For my palate, it was pretty juicy wine but also dry and earthy. Good minerality and tannins. It definitely had a pepper finish that made it work well with a char-grilled ribeye. Too many Chilean wines have that ‘green taste” … green peppers if you will, and I’m not a fan.

Carmen 2010 Gran Reserva Carmenere, around $15 – trade sample, Highly Recommended.

FRN_Equilibrium_medFranciscan 2012 Equilibrium – This white wine comes from a great Napa producer and really delivers a delightful and well-balanced glass of wine.

Many of the California white blends I’ve had lately seemed out of what with 3-5-7 white grapes. Franciscan sticks with primarily Sauv Blanc, then throws in a little Chardonnay and Muscat to soften and round the rough spots. It works!

There is easy-to-spot white peach and great balance. This would be a wonderful match for those who enjoy spicy foods. I actually served it with a peach and mozzarella summer salad and it was spectacular.

Franciscan 2012 Equilibrium, SRP $23, trade sample, Highly Recommended.

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Rant On: As It Should Be …

02 Thursday May 2013

Posted by Howard in France, South America

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Chateau La Tour De Bessan Margaux, Chile, Cousino-Macul Antiguas Reservas 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, sustainable farming, sustainable vineyards and wine, wine half bottles

In a perfect world we’d all sip Rose on a seashore with fresh seafood. Or perhaps drink big Malbec or Cabernet with charred and aged steaks. And if that’s too snobbish, how about some Sauv Blanc and shrimp? Or, maybe some pizza or a hamburger with a Beaujolais Cru? In a perfect world should wine in a box be a little better? And shouldn’t consumers have a lot more of those nifty little half bottles in their wine stores? Every now and then, wine writers rant! Rant on:

Cousino-Macul Antiguas Reservas 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon – This is pretty darn great value Cab for under $20. The wine is rich with ripe fruit, that green pepper thing you get in Chilean wines, and a hint of currant and vanilla. Maipo Valley is the home to the winery. It’s big soft and so drinkable the bottle might be gone before you ever realize it. (Not that it happened that way with me, noooooo!) photo (4) One of the great things about this wine is it comes from a producer who is joining a considerable South American movement toward sustainable farming practices.

Online, you’ll find rather dismissive reviews that it isn’t this or that. But the Cousino-Macul Cab is one most novice and intermediate wine drinkers is going to enjoy.

Cousino-Macul Antiguas Reservas 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, Around $16, Trade Sample, Highly Recommended

Chateau La Tour De Bessan Margaux 2009 (Half Bottle) – How many saw the rant coming here? C’mon, raise your hands?

If you travel in Europe, particularly in the great wine countries, you will see lots of half bottles in wine shops but even more in outdoor and traditional markets. The half bottle is a perfect way to try something new or different not to mention great for the single person. Two glasses of wine is enough for many of us on most nights. There are arguments against the half bottle, mainly that wine will not age and last as long as the traditional 750 ml bottle. But there are statistics floating around out that that most wine in the U.S. is consumed within days or weeks of purchase.

Most of central Indiana’s better shops carry half bottles but a very limited selection. This Margaux gave me a chance to taste a Cab-Merlot blend from one of the world’s greatest wine regions without breaking the bank. Sure it’s an entry level wine from the region but that’s as far as many wine drinkers may ever get with Bordeaux’s crazy prices. The wine itself was okay. It had a beautiful balance and richness that suggested great French wine making. Blackberry was the overwhelming characteristic that came to mind as I sipped with my charred ribeye.

Chateau La Tour De Bessan Margaux 2009, $12.95 half bottle, Highly Recommended! More half bottles in wine shops – Very Highly Recommended!

ChatRollanDeByRose Chateau Rollan de By 2011 Bordeaux Rose’ – Not a Claret but a Bordeaux Rose’ and a pretty good one. Most Rose’ fans really fall for the light, pink, and delicate Provence Rose – and I’m one of those folks. But I do like something different from time to time and the Bordeaux was a pleasant surprise.

It certainly was bigger on the palate but not sweet as some might fear from the candy-red color. It’s a bigger wine because it is made from Cabernet and Merlot from the Medoc region. It’s different – I like different. There is strawberry and cherry but it’s all kept in check by a nice roundness and mouth feel. It’s worth checking out.

Chateau Rollan de By 2011 Bordeaux Rose’, $13.50, Recommended.

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Back to a Reasonable Price Point

19 Tuesday Mar 2013

Posted by Howard in South America

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Casillero del Diablo, Chile, Concha Y Toro, Malbec

My last blog post was for an $85 Oregon cult wine. Some would say that’s not knowing the audience. I’ve built five-and-a-half years of wine writing by focusing mostly on value wine. But I think it is interesting for the reader to learn about the big things out there – and obviously, I enjoy exploring wine from all regions at all price points.

Casillero MalbecMalbec is one of my ‘go-to’ wines and should be one of yours. Some Malbecs are certainly better than others, but taken within context of price and producer, they seldom disappoint.

I’m sipping a $12 Chilean Malbec as this gets written. The wine was opened last night and needed a little air as a young wine – not for the fruit so much but to soften the sharp edges, the astringency young wines at this price often dominate a newly opened bottle.

Malbec is king in Argentina, of course, but plenty of the little dark grape is grown next door in Chile as well. Casillero del Diablo 2011 Malbec is affordable, drinkable red wine. It’s light on the fruit when opened and given a little air, but I’m getting nice rich plum and raspberry on its second night.

There is nothing sophisticated about this wine, nor would you expect it for $12. Cellartracker members give it 87 points which I think is about right. If you’re grilling a steak or about any beef dish, red sauce pasta, or even seasoned pork – Malbec can be a great choice. Try Malbec with BBQ!

One more point I make to wine friends all the time and I wrote it at the top. My last blog post was an $85 bottle of wine while tonight’s glass has $12 wine. Learn to judge a glass of juice for what it is. You can’t compare these two wines. I thought the $85 wine was fabulous but overpriced some. This $10-$11 wine is good wine at that price point. Get it?

Cassilero del Diablo 2011 Malbec, $8-$12, Recommended.

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A Long Time Between Chilean Carmeneres

03 Tuesday Jan 2012

Posted by Howard in South America

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Carmenere, Chile

Chile, Argentina and others in South America are producing some outstanding varietal red wines and red wine blends. I love Malbec and Bonarda from south of the border but I’m still developing a taste for Carmenere.

I popped open Falernia 2007 Reserva Carmenere the other night and it had that dark purplish color the grape is known for and a pleasant nose.

I liked the rich dark fruit and thought it was pretty smooth wine until I got to the finish. Then, someone lit a match! The alcohol seemed way too pronounced against the dark fruit flavors. I went searching for the bottle to find the wine comes in at 15 percent alcohol. For me and this grape, that’s a bit hot.

The grapes come from Chile’s Elqui Valley and the Vicuna area. It sees about a half year in oak. It’s a decent value at $15. The acid was still pretty strong 24 hours after opening.

The wine has a nice mouth feel until you get to that finish. Carmenere is a great grape for wine exploration. It’s usually very affordable, a bigger wine, but with a nice big fruit component. The alcohol in this one will scare some people off. Nevertheless, it’s a good value and a decent introduction to Carmenere. This arrived as a trade sample with another Carmenere, I’ll be anxious to try the other!

(Falernia 2007 Reserva Carmenere, SRP $15, Trade Sample, No Recommendation)

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

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