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Howard W. Hewitt

~ … The "W" stands for wine!

Howard W. Hewitt

Tag Archives: Malbec

Chilean Wine Keeps Improving

02 Wednesday Apr 2014

Posted by Howard in Newspaper Column 2014, South America

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Bonarda, Carmenere, Grey Single Block, Malbec, Ventisquero, Wines of Chile

South American wines played a key role in revolutionizing the concept of value wines in recent years. Argentina has had great success with its seductive Malbec, earthy Bonarda, and even the white difference of Torrontos.

Grape Sense LogoChile has been around longer but may be viewed more skeptically by growing mostly Cabernet, Syrah, and Merlot wines. Early on much of the Chilean Sauvignon Blanc was quite tasty. But the reds were marred with a green pepper or vegetal flavor that was a little more than unappealing to many palates.

The Chilean wines I’ve tasted in the past year are increasingly of higher quality and interest. Chilean winemakers are also experimenting with Pinot Noir and even Rhone blends. The unique and different growing regions could make Chile a real wine star in coming years.
A little background goes all of the way back to the 16th century and Spanish conquistadors introducing vines to the coastal nation. In the 1800s the French introduced Cabernet, Merlot, Cab Franc, and a somewhat obscure grape, Carmenere.

Keep in mind when thinking about the environment for grape growing is the unique terroir. The Andes and the Pacific Ocean sandwich the grape growing regions. That would be latitudes similar to Spain.

There are five major wine regions, arguably the Central Coast produces the best wines or at least the wines most often found on U.S. shelves. The Central Valley includes the three Maipo regions along with the best known Colchagua Valley area.

Some important folks and winemakers have taken notice of Chile’s potential in recent years through partnerships and investment. Robert Mondavi, Miguel Torres, Chateau Lafite Rothschild, and Chateau Mouton Rothschild have all partnered to make wines.

WinesChileLogoGreat Britain imports a lot of Chilean wines and even the higher end bottles. In the U.S., Chilean wine normally means value – or frankly, cheap red wine.

Where Chile may have a long-term advantage is the diversity of its wine industry. The Cabernet, Syrah, and Merlot wines are certainly a bit different than pulling one off the shelf from California. That little-known French blender Carmenere has been adopted by Chile as its signature grape. Carmenere is big, inky, deep purple wine that can be over-powering to silky and alluring.

The bottle line is affordable Chilean wine wasn’t all that good just a few years ago but it’s improving fast. It’s time to revisit the South America section of your wine store, move past Argentina for now, and try the improving Chilean wines.

Some names I can recommend: Montes, Errazuriz, Casa Silva, Miguel Torres, Terra Andina, Santa Ema, Carmen and Ventisquero.

The Ventisquero wines are at a slightly higher price point than many, they are really knockout wines. I received these wines as a trade sample.

Grey Single Block Carmenere – Blueberries, blackberries, smoke and spice make this a seductive glass of wine. It spends 18 months in new oak and is the kind of big wine that pairs really well with big food.

Grey Single Block Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 – The 96 percent Cab, 4 percent Petit Verdot wine was a wonderfully bold Cabernet with beautiful balance.

Grey GCM 2011 – This was the surprise of the lot for me. I had not had Rhone varietals from Chile and this wine blend of Garnacha, Mourvedre, and Carignan showed tremendous potential.

This label is widely available with all three wines at a suggested retail price of $23.99.

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Back to a Reasonable Price Point

19 Tuesday Mar 2013

Posted by Howard in South America

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Casillero del Diablo, Chile, Concha Y Toro, Malbec

My last blog post was for an $85 Oregon cult wine. Some would say that’s not knowing the audience. I’ve built five-and-a-half years of wine writing by focusing mostly on value wine. But I think it is interesting for the reader to learn about the big things out there – and obviously, I enjoy exploring wine from all regions at all price points.

Casillero MalbecMalbec is one of my ‘go-to’ wines and should be one of yours. Some Malbecs are certainly better than others, but taken within context of price and producer, they seldom disappoint.

I’m sipping a $12 Chilean Malbec as this gets written. The wine was opened last night and needed a little air as a young wine – not for the fruit so much but to soften the sharp edges, the astringency young wines at this price often dominate a newly opened bottle.

Malbec is king in Argentina, of course, but plenty of the little dark grape is grown next door in Chile as well. Casillero del Diablo 2011 Malbec is affordable, drinkable red wine. It’s light on the fruit when opened and given a little air, but I’m getting nice rich plum and raspberry on its second night.

There is nothing sophisticated about this wine, nor would you expect it for $12. Cellartracker members give it 87 points which I think is about right. If you’re grilling a steak or about any beef dish, red sauce pasta, or even seasoned pork – Malbec can be a great choice. Try Malbec with BBQ!

One more point I make to wine friends all the time and I wrote it at the top. My last blog post was an $85 bottle of wine while tonight’s glass has $12 wine. Learn to judge a glass of juice for what it is. You can’t compare these two wines. I thought the $85 wine was fabulous but overpriced some. This $10-$11 wine is good wine at that price point. Get it?

Cassilero del Diablo 2011 Malbec, $8-$12, Recommended.

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Trivento Golden Reserve Darn Good #Malbec

18 Wednesday Apr 2012

Posted by Howard in South America

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Argentina, Malbec, Trivento

Today is World Malbec Day and it’s easy to join the celebration because I’m a fan!

I’ve been recommending Malbec to beginning wine drinkers since I started writing about wine four years ago. Malbec is generally easy to drink, rich, nicely balanced, and affordable.

The Trivento Golden Reserve 2008 Malbec is one darn nice glass of wine. This wine is inky dark, with a wonderful nose and a nice rich body on the palate.

I had the wine with two pork chops I braised then baked. One chop had just salt and pepper while the other had a dry rub and sweet BBQ sauce. The Malbec was a wonderful pairing. Many people think of malbec for grilled meats and big beef dishes, but I think the wonderful silkiness of good Malbec is a great date with a moderately seasoned piece of pork.

This wine gives you dark berries, plum, maybe some chocolate, and plenty of earthy tones. In other words, it’s my kind of wine.

The tannins are well balanced with a very nice lingering finish. The alcohol comes in at 14.5 percent. Robert Parker gave this wine 90 points.

This is a fine bottle of wine for the price point. The suggested retail is $21, but I received the bottle as a trade sample. There are a lot of great Malbecs around $13-$17. Here is one with a bit more richness than many for just a few more bucks. I’d highly recommend the Trivento Malbec.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

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To Bordeaux and burgundy for this weeks Saturday Sipps at the Wine Shop, 11-4 pm. Taste these great wines and you can buy them Saturday only for 20% off.
Panko, breaded, shrimp and Michigan, Leelanau, peninsula, Shady Lane cellars” Chardonnay. Pretty great small dinner after a night at the Wine Shop. #shadylanecellars

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