A Great Afternoon, Lunch in Charming French Village

ST. GERMAIN du PUCH – Our press troup visiting Bordeaux is still anchored in the city at the heart of the world’s best-known wine region but the highlight of the day was a great lunch at a small cafe in this little town outside Bordeaux.

The first full day started with a short class on Bordeaux basics and ended with another fabulous dinner and one of the best parties alonge the Garone River at the Fete du Vin!

The highlight though was spending much of the day with Martin Fuego who manages tourism and some marketing for Chateau Lestrille in Saint Germain du Puch.

See photos from Thursday in Bordeaux here..

We visited his small village and the family winery and boutique gift shop at mid day. We tasked his great white wines and reds over a memorable lunch at L’Atmosphere in the center of town. It was the conversation about wine and food and the French wine industry that made it the highlight of the visit thus far.

We learned about Martin’s in-laws who have produced grapes for five generations at Chateau Lestrille. Martin’s wine Estelle has taken over for her father in recent years as winemaker to become the fifth generation.

Fuego told us how his estate, and others in Bordeaux, want to produce more white wines because of demand. He read the French menu for us and we feated on lamb, local pizza, a beautiful tuna tartar and scallops. It was a relaxed way to learn about French food, wine and culture that you can’t experience without being here.

Fuego acknowledges that getting more people ‘here’ is one of the big challenges for Bordeaux. The world’s best-known wine region is a latecomer to wine tourism. They are taking big steps, especially in the city of Bordeaux, but have a long ways to go to rival the Wine Disney World that is Napa.

We also talked at length about the challenges though. Martin and his wife have opened the small boutique, pictured at right, to welcome visitors/. He believes visitors who find the small French villages are reluctant to come up to a winery or even a tasting room if it doesn’t have the appearance of a normal shop. They carry plenty of wine accessories, some French milled soaps, and some food products as well.

Martin returned to Bordeaux with us to give us a walking tour of the cities shopping, restaurants, history and culture in the early evening. We dined at the festival at one of the restaurant’s booths. I hope to be able to post a full photo ablum that illustrates that and more of the day Friday or Saturday. Typical of most small European hotels, ours is nice but internet access is a bit spotty.

We then rushed off at 11 p.m. to the Bordeaux Sweet Wine Cocktail class complete with DJ. It might been one of the coolest parties in the world for a Thursday night. We slid under a rope line, just like the celebs – ha, and learned to make a sweet wine, peppers, champagne, mango cocktail. And it was pretty tasty.

The video below is a little rough considering, but it might show a small fraction of the fun

And just as we had shaken the cocktail and started sipping the nightly firewords lit up the Garone River and Bordeaux’s incredibly beautiful river front area.

Not a bad first full day in France.

On a negative note- still no luggage. The kind front desk staff tracked my luggage to the Bordeaux airport but they did not deliver it. Staff members for the CIVB, the local wine organization, are going to try to retrieve it for me Friday morning. While shopping for jeans and a pullover this morning I was reminded in the most humbling of ways that european men and boys tend to be tall and skinny. Enough said!

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A Traveler’s Tale of Woe Getting to Bordeaux

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BORDEAUX, France – The first post from Bordeaux was supposed to be all about arriving at mid afternoon and walking the beautiful city streets. Our group of wine journalists was scheduled to have dinner together at what apeared to be a really nice French restaurant.

Instead, I’m starting this post from an Air France jet Lyon to Bordeaux. There will be lots of incredible Bordeaux wine over the next few days as a guest of Bordeaux producers. But right now I’d hurt someone for just one glass.

Travel woes are not new to anyone who even occasionally flies. But the industry out-did itself Tuesday/Wednesday. My flight from Indianapolis to Detroit went fine. It was all down hill from there. After two glasses of wine I wrote about below, our flight from Detroit to Rome (not at typo) was delayed for about an hour because of a fuel leak and fuel smell in the cabin. That fixed we boarded the plane and set for a good hour and a half for something never described beyond calling it an anomaly.

We finally backed away to the applause of already weary, if not jaded travelers, and made the wonderful nine-hour flight to Rome. Of course, we were too late for my connecting flight to Bordeaux.

That’s when the real fun began. Upon entering Italy, like most countries, passengers are to gather up their luggage and go through customs. My suitcase didn’t appear, didn’t appear and didn’t appear. And knock on wood, I’ve never had a piece of lost luggage in my travels.

I asked a number of airline attendants at the luggage pick up and they assured me there would be more. When there were no more people I found a nice woman with a clipboard who assured me it had already been checked through to Bordeaux (on my missed flight) because of the delays.

Three different stops at Italian airline kiosks and a very nice man found me an evening flight of Rome to Lyon and Lyon to Bordeaux. While not ideal, it should get me into Bordeaux by 9 p.m. and to our downtown hotel by 9:30 or 10. That means, start to finish, I left Indy at 2:20 Tuesday and arrived in Bordeaux 9 p.m. (local time) Wednesday night.

I’m hoping my lonely suitcase is there in the lost luggage department waiting for me. If not, I will have angry to add to very tired, a bit hungry and dry, and just a little stinky upon arrival at my destination.

Hopefully, all other posts through Saturday will be about this wonderful wine experience and not the author’s whining about travel when someone else is paying the bill!

UPDATE: Arrived in Bordeaux at nine. Luggage did not and will be delivered tomorrow. Airlines stood up though and said they would reimburse up to 100E so I could buy fresh clothes tomorrow. Taxi into town was 55E; I think I got ripped off.

This city is gorgeous and all abuzz for the Fete le Vin to kick off tomorrow. Hopefully alll good news tomorrow. I”ve been up something like 40 hours straight and calling it quits. No pics for this entry but tomorrow it’s off we go immersed in Bordeaux wine!

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Just Discovered Vino Volo a Rocking Wine Bar

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DETROIT, Mi. – In midst of one of the nicest layovers of any overseas trip. I’m at Detroit airport waiting on flight to Rome and then on into Bordeaux mid-day tomorrow for Bordeaux Fete le Vin – or wine festival.

Moving my way down a people mover I noticed Vino Volo and how attractive it looked for an airport winebar. I found my gate to note everything was on schedule and figured what better way to prepare for 9 hours on a plane! Ha!

My waiter told me the concept is new but already in 19 U.S. Airports. Thanks to WiFi and iPhones I’ve attached a couple of pics and a link to the company’s site above. But this place rocks.

The menu inlcuded three sets of eight different type wines along with a “Taste of all Three” option. I started with an Andrieux and Fils Provence Rose. It was silky and smooth with a wonderful pomegranite flavor. A nice glass of Rose at an airport for $10? Not bad!! If we were doing the 100-point thing, the Rose’ was a strong 90 points.

Then with nearly an hour before boarding why not try the Antonin Rodel Cotes de Beaune 2009 Burgundy? One of the neat things this chain does is provide a little paper coaster with more about the wine you’re drinking with tasting notes and the cost per bottle.

The Burgundy could have used a slight chill but was a very nice glass. It had nice cherry and you picked up a hint of oak. It was a bit spicy and really had nice second level characteristics. Not cheap at $15 a glass but worth it to numb the airport experience.

They also offer some very nice small bites, small plates and sandwhiches. You can also buy wine by the bottle. It’s a great concept! I’ll definitely be looking for Vino Volo on future trips. I’m impressed.

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Off to France for Bordeaux Fete le Vin

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I’m off to France Tuesday to visit the world’s most famous wine region, Bordeaux.

An invitation arrived just a few weeks ago to join a press contingent of about 15 worldwide journalists as guests of the CIVB, or Bordeaux’s wine council. The group represents about 10,000 Bordeaux wineries and negociants. And yes, in the sense of full disclosure, it’s important to note they pick up all expenses to bring journalists to the event.

Every other year, even numbered ones, Bordeaux celebrates its iconic wines with this festival.

Depending on what web site you wish to believe, the Fete le Vin will draw between 300,000-500,000 visitors this week.

Saying I’m excited is a big understatement. I really enjoyed a wine trip to Southern France earlier this year and it left me with a desire to learn more about French wines. I’m not sure whether to admit or admit with some embarrassment that of all the wine regions in the world Bordeaux presents the biggest challenge. I have certainly consumed some Bordeaux wines but not much. And my knowledge base of wine regions is the thinnest when it comes to France’s iconic Bordeaux.

The Garone River runs through the heart of Bordeaux.

We will be participants in the festival which features wineries from Bordeaux’s 80 appellations, a nightly light show and concert, and plenty of culinary specialities sure to tantatlize the taste buds.

A good portion of the trip seems to be devoted to shining a light on tourism.. Bordeaux certainly is no Napa when it comes to welcoming the outside world. I look at that as perhaps the most interesting story to come out of this visit. We’ll see.

I hope to be Tweeting throughout the day and will blog each night. I will try, as access and time permit.s, to put up a photo album on the blog each evening.

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Fleur Cardinale is Great Introduction to Bordeaux

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Through the years I’ve purchased and consumed a few bottles of Bordeaux. But it was always the lower end stuff and I’m not sure if I’d even purchased a Grand Cru.

I’m leaving for Bordeaux Tuesday for the Fete le Vin wine festival. So a week ago I thought picking up a decent bottle was a necessary step in preparation.

I was in Indy’s Kahn’s store on Keystone Ave. and Jim Arnold, the store owner, happened to come by and make comment about a bottle I was holding. I told him I was headed to Bordeaux and would be visiting the Saint Emilion region and wanted to buy a bottle.

He suggested the 2007 Fleur Cardinale Grand Cru at about $45. I opened it Sunday night with some big ol Cowboy Ribeyes and it was just fabulous.

Arnold suggested there are often great values in off-vintage years. Wine Spectator gave the ’07 vintage an 86 rating compared to the standout ’05’s  99 points. The 2006 was rated 89 points, the ’08 was up to 88 while the ’09 vintage scored a 96.

The wine shop owner suggested looking for an off-vintage wine that has gotten good reviews. The Fleur Cardinal scored a 90 from Robert Parker so that was good enough for me.

The wine was excellent with deep, dark fruit flavors, and really nicely balanced tannins. The wine was 75 percent Merlot, 15 percent Cabernet Franc, and 10 percent Cabernet. It was really elegant and silky wine perfect with the grilled ribeye. While $45 for a bottle is well above the price point I normally write about on Grape Sense, it’s fabulous wine for a special occasion.

Arnold sells more Cardinale by case than any other Bordeaux.

Fleur Cardinale 2007 Grand Cru, $45, Very Highly Recommended

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Wines to Go; Summer Sippers Abound

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Wine by the glass is a novel concept that has nothing to do with that expensive pour you recently had at a restaurant.
Perhaps you’ve noticed the displays in your local town’s pharmacy. Single-serving wines are now available at some of the major drug store chains.
The Oregon based company behind the little glass to go is Copa Di Vino, or wine by the glass. The glass is made of recyclable plastic. It has a plastic cap and a foil seal.
Founder James Martin got the idea while in France, according to the product’s website. Martin was traveling on a high-speed train in when he first saw wine bottled by the glass.
Locally, the pharmacy had the Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, and Merlot. But the company also offers Riesling, and White Zinfandel. You can buy it by the case for around $36 or individually for about $3.
I tasted the Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Grigio for this column. The Cab was a typical under $10 a bottle Cabernet. The wine was varietally correct with a bit of unpleasant astringency. But it also was not unlike many under $10 Cabs I’ve tasted. The Pinot Grigio was equally okay. I thought it was a bit on the tart side for the normally mild mannered wine .
Would I recommend either strictly based on taste, no way. But for convenience knowing, what you’re going to get, perhaps.
Obviously, the idea is to enjoy a fresh glass of wine without opening an entire bottle. You can do the same thing though with the much-improved boxed wines now available.
But who is the target audience for this product? If the family is headed out on a picnic and you don’t want to mess with cups, glasses, a bottle and opener then it makes some sense. Do we need wine by the glass at the corner drug store? I’ll leave that for consumers to decide.
Great Summer Sippers– Summer time is white wine and Rose time. Here are a few I’ve sampled lately that are widely available and very affordable: Santa Barbara 2007 Sauvignon Blanc, $12, light wine with good acid; Clayhouse Adobe White, $14, a rich smooth blend ; Arona Sauvignon Blanc, delightful with crisp acidity; Gerard Bertrand 2010 Gris Rose’, $14, wonderfully dry Rose’, Bieler Pere et Fils Rose’, $11-$14, Southern France blend that tastes like expensive wine.
Off to Bordeaux – Check out my wine blog (www.redforme.blogspot.com) between June 27-30 for updates from France during the Bordeaux Fete le Vin or Bordeaux Wine Festival. I’ll be there as a guest of Bordeaux producers for the every other year celebration of the world’s most famous wine region’s wines. I usually blog each night during such trips and try to post lots of photos. This festival draws more than a half million visitors. Our press group will be visiting a couple of Chateau in the Saint Emilion region near Bordeaux and learning about the burgeoning wine tourism.
Howard W. Hewitt, Crawfordsville, IN., writes about wine every other week for 18 Midwestern newspapers.

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Vidon One of Oregon’s Great Boutique Wineries

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A few weeks back I started posting a few of the individual videos I had shot while in Oregon last summer.

Don Hagge .. Apollo Engineer and now a winemaker.

These were videos I shot for a full Oregon feature for a national online site that didn’t pan out. I wrote several pieces about my visits, the winemakers, the region, and the wine. But the videos sat untouched until earlier this year.

I have two more and should have gotten them up by now. These two are arguably the most interesting stops of my four days in the Willamette Valley.

First up today is Don Hagge of Vidon Vineyards. I wrote about meeting Don the day we met him. He has such an interesting background story that I mention in that blog post. He also makes some of the most fabulous Pinot Noir you’ll sample in the valley.

What really got us on our trip is we asked at two or three different wineries what spot we should visit not on our agenda. Nearly everyone, knowing we were seeking small boutique wineries, said we just had to go see Don.

The video is most unedited – just clipped at the beginning and end. It gives you more of a feel for being there and chatting with the winemaker.


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It’s National #SauvBlanc Day – Really!

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Indeed, National Sauvignon Blanc Day will be over before you know it. It’s sort of like waiting for Christmas and then ‘poof’ it’s gone.

Okay, a tad too much sarcasm. I actually like these national (fill in the blank) wine days. It’s a chance to read bloggers and wine writers musings on a particular varietal. I’m not sure anyone outside the wine world knows there is a National Sauvignon Blanc day, or Cab, Merlot, or Chardonnay Day. But there are such holidays.

Correct label, but I drank the 2009

This is largely the creation of social media wine writers. That’s those of us who dally regularly in Facebook, Twitter, and blogging. If you search the tag I’ve put in the headling #SauvBlanc you’ll find Facebook postings, blogs, and Tweets all about Sauvignon Blanc today.

Who could come up with this but self-absorbed, narcissistic, attention-seeking wine writers? Well, I guess those adjectives are all redundant. But it is sort of fun.

I opened a really great Santa Barbara Winery 2009 Sauvingon Blanc from the Santa Ynez Valley in Central California. I paid $11.99 at Cork and Cracker in Indy for this dynamite and lighter-bodied SauvBlanc.

The wine has strong citrus with floral hints, and a pretty mild acidic finish. But it’s a nice change of pace from the bigger more powerfully acidic Sauv Blanc wines. And at $12 it’s a crazy good value. This is wine that would be fabulous with white fish and really light summer dishes. And the mild acidity makes it a perfect sipper for hot days.

I’d give the wine a Highly Recommended rating as a value and delicous Sauvingon Blanc.

Oh, Happy Sauvignon Blanc Day!

I wonder if there is a National Table Grape day?

Hmmmm ……..

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Wine by The Glass A Good Idea?

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Perhaps you’ve seen it lurking in the corner of your neighborhood pharmacy.

There by the Gallo, Fetzer, and Cupcake you might have seen little tiny glasses of wine that called your name or confused you.  It confused me.

Copa di Vino is the company behind single serving glasses of wine now being distributed across the country. Go to the website and you’ll see how the owners of two wineries were riding a train in France and saw the idea there.

A small taste taken in the video below was “ok Cabernet.” The next day it was undrinkable.

Check out the video.

POST SCRIPT: Two nights later I found this ‘glass’ of Cab in my fridge. I did take a sip – nasty. But after two days a lot of Cab would be nasty. I wouldn’t recommend these to anyone wanting wine for wine’s sake, but for convenience it was drinkable.


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Video: Playing Around With Wine Glasses

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For some time I’ve felt like a few video posts would be fun and add some variety to the blog. Or, call it channeling my inner Gary Vaynerchuk.

It seems to me these should have a purpose beyond the usual stuff. I’ve posted videos on many occasions before interviewing winemakers and such. I will use video largely in the future as a bit of education or fun for the novice wine drinkers.

Does the size of the glass matter? For the first time ever I tried a large and small glass with some French Rose’. Frankly, there wasn’t a big difference. But check out the video for the whole story.

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