PARIS, France – When 2012 began it was hard to image Languedoc, Bordeaux, and Chablis would be added to my wine travel resume.
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| All you need on a plane, a laptop and glass of French Merlot |
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27 Saturday Oct 2012
Posted in Food & Travel, France
PARIS, France – When 2012 began it was hard to image Languedoc, Bordeaux, and Chablis would be added to my wine travel resume.
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| All you need on a plane, a laptop and glass of French Merlot |
Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com
24 Wednesday Oct 2012
Posted in Food & Travel, France
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If I’m not a full-fledged Francophile by Christmas it’s not for a lack of opportunity. I’ll be leaving Thursday for my third France wine press trip of 2012.
I’ll join three other U.S. wine journalists as guests of the Burgundy Wine Board at the Chablis Fete des Vins, or wine festival. This is a quick trip. We arrive Friday morning, spend time at the festival and in the vineyards and wineries Saturday and Sunday and its then a quick return home Monday.
But hey, it’s France; and, it’s Chablis!
I’m going to try to blog each day and do more frequent updates on Facebook and Twitter. You can follow me through the links in the right column. On previous trips I didn’t activate a data plan for my iPhone but it’s only $30 so this time I’m going to give it a try.
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| Jean-Francois Bordet of Domaine Seguinot Bordet |
We’re going to be staying in the nearby city of Auxxere, a town of about 40,000 people not far from Chablis. After a get-acquainted dinner Friday night, we have a very full Saturday agenda. But it seems quite an honor that we will be dining with Jean-Francois Bordet, the President of the Chablis Commission of the Burgundy Wine Board.
We’ll start in the vineyards and then taste the award winners of the 2012 Chablis Wine Awards.
Saturday afternoon will be an afternoon of tasting and discovery with more than 50 presenters of Chablis’ four appelations. They are certainly treating the journalists well on this trip. On Saturday evening we will be guests of the Confrerie des Piliers Chablisiens – “a wine society that honors those who by activity, writing, or way of doing things have served the cause of Burgundy and more especially Chablis.”
These societies are common in the great wine producing regions of France. It’s a real honor to be able to attend.
The Piliers Chablisiens parade gets us started on Sunday with visits after lunch to Domaine Billaud-Simon with Bernard Billaud and then a tasting at La Chablisienne.
We’ll be transported back to Paris Sunday evening to catch our Monday flights home.
This should be a really memorable trip. I’m not sure any region is best known for its expression of terrior through just one grape – Chardonnay – like Chablis. Follow along here and on my social media sites.
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23 Tuesday Oct 2012
Posted in Food & Travel
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| Ruhlman during a visit to Wabash College |
So much fuss is made over pairing wine and food that the home cook may not think of wine as an asset in flavoring their dishes.
Michael Ruhlman, one of American’s most prolific and authoritative food authors, said wine can be used as a great marinade to enhance foods. Ruhlman, known for his 18 books and appearances on the Food Network and with Anthony Bourdain on the Travel Channel, made a recent brief visit to Indiana.
The Cleveland native said one of the most important rules is an old one. “Always use a wine that you would feel comfortable drinking,” he said. “But not a Chateau Margaux (very expensive French wine). You don’t want to throw that in a pot of stew; use a drinkable, affordable wine.”Ruhlman said he’d even eat boneless, skinless chicken breast if it was properly marinated. “And let’s face it, chicken breast is the skim milk of the protein world that America relies on. If home cooks would learn to marinate it properly they’d have something really tasty.”
17 Wednesday Oct 2012
Posted in Newspaper Column 2012
First the good news:
I recently announced that a shorter version of my newspaper column Grape Sense would soon start appearing in Indianapolis’ weekly news and entertainment paper, NUVO.
My first piece ran today and is up on their website. The editors very much want a local and Indianapolis focus. Since the column has never overlapped much of the Indianapolis market previously, they were fine with me re-purposing a couple of columns I suggested.
The first one running was my story about River City Winery winning the Indy International Wine Competition’s top honor. Here is the link to the NUVO site and my column.
The column, and an occasional feature, will run at least twice a month. It’s great to have Grape Sense in the Indianapolis market. NUVO is a free distribution paper of more than 40,000 copies.
And now the bad:
Vino 100, Columbus, OH., is closing its doors. The Vino 100 concept is a national franchise the plays heavily on flavor profiles and a consistent look from store to store.
Like any good shop, the Columbus store was driven by its owner Liz Avera. Liz is knowledgable and friendly. She had built a good customer base. The store was located in the affluent Westerville suburb of Columbus.
I don’t know what went wrong with my friend’s store or perhaps it was just a matter of careers as much as business.
But this seemingly successful store illustrates a point I’ve made over and over. Support your near-by wine shops. You don’t need to buy wine at big-box stores for $1 a bottle less. The small wine shops will educate you, inform you and make you a smarter wine consumer.
It’s a sad day when any small shop closes, even if so far away. But don’t think the Vino 100 story is unique. There are small shops in Indiana struggling to keep their doors open. Go buy some wine!
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14 Sunday Oct 2012
Posted in Food & Travel
SAINT LOUIS – Many of my wine writing friends and wine drinking friends tell me to write more about food and my hits will increase. I know they’re right. I do try to write about food and dining when I travel personally or on business.
I’ve had business reasons to come to this city on a few occasions but never an overnight. So when a group of us had to hit the Gateway to the West overnight we made plans. We were in the city for College business Saturday afternoon.
We had lots of recommendations for an Italian restaurant on the city’s iconic “Hill” district and settled on LoRusso‘s. It proved to be a great choice!
Our table was ready upon arrival which always gets me off on the right foot. We had two experienced wine drinkers, two young wine drinkers, and two current students so four wine drinkers.
We started with great bruschetta and the iconic toasted ravioli. Several of the guys had the standard dinner salad while I opted for the evenings salad special which was a thick slice of toasted bread, gorgonzola cheese, and then smothered with Roma tomatos with a drizzle of olive oil and fantastic balsamic vinegar.
The highlight at LoRusso’s was the entrees, as it should be at any great restaurant. One of the guys had wonderful/spicy Cioppino. A couple had pasta/seafood combinations and two of us had beef tenderloin dishes. I had marinated then breaded tenderloin medallions which were charbroiled and served in lemon wine sauce. It was topped with prosciutto and mushrooms. The steak was perfectly cooked to a a nice medium rare and the flavor combinations were simply off the charts. It was one of the best dishes I’ve had in any Italian restaurant. It included several side choices; I had simple pasta in olive oil.
When asked, no one wanted dessert. Then when the waitress brought around the always-tempting dessert tray to show off the goodies – six desserts were on their way. A couple of the guys had blood orange gelato, one had this marvelous chocolate iced white chocolate/devils food cake with crazy raspberry sauce. I had the cannoli, the only low point of the meal. There was nothing wrong with the traditional Italian dessert, I’ve just had better in any number of Indianapolis Italian restaurants.
And that brings us to the wine. LoRusso’s wine list was top notch. They had wines from all the major wine regions of the world and great selection of Italian reds. The list included $200 Brunello down to $30 Valpolicella offerings. I didn’t want to pay $70 for a Valpollicella so asked for a little assistance. The hostess, and one of the owners, recommended a couple of wines.
Since we had two novice wine drinkers I wanted something a little lighter. The owner suggested a Langhe Nebbiolo, which I was surprised to see on the list for a reasonable $38. The Bricco Enrichetta 2010 wine was fruity, not nearly as dry as much Nebbiolo and perfect for our appetizers and salads. I thought it was nice and the younger guys loved it.
Interesting enough, everyone loved the bigger wine much more. The recommended Ruffino Modus 2008 blend of 50 percent Sangiovese, 25 percent Cab, and 25 percent Merlot was a great bottle. It sold in the restaurant for $48. (More on the price below.) It was a perfect pairing for those of us with the steak dishes but the other guys liked it as well.
If you’re in St. Louis, it’s hard to go wrong with Italian anywhere on the hill. But I can personally vouch for LoRusso’s as one of the best Italian restaurants I’ve ever enjoyed outside of Italy.
Since we had the young guys it was appropriate to visit Delmar Avenue, an entertainment area at the heart of a number of college campuses. It has bars, shops, live music, and all the spirited atmosphere you’d expect in a college town. We walked the sidewalks and read the embedded stars, like the Hollywood Walk of Fame, honoring notable St. Louis legends.
A visit to the area is not complete without a stop by the Blueberry Hill. Once a month legendary rock icon Chuck Berry still performs there. But it’s a tough ticket. Berry will pick up his guitar Wednesday night and play the Blueberry for his 86th birthday celebration! That’s amazing!
Saturday mornings for me are often a little wine shopping. After an internet search and some reviews, we settled on visiting the nearby Wine Merchant on Hanley Ave. It also proved to be a great choice. They’re known for their Burgundy supply and it wasn’t hard to see why. I was incredibly impressed by the staff knowledge and ability to match the right wine to just what the customer wanted. They also had a nice selection of cheese from around the world. It’s a great shop. I signed up for their email newsletter for their deals and Burgundy offerings.
Oh, that $48 Ruffino Modus Super Tuscan we had at dinner retails at about $23 at Wine Merchant. That’s a typical restaurant markup and only one I’m willing to pay when enjoying a great restaurant. It was worth the $48 at dinner, but a very good value for a more reasonable $23.
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09 Tuesday Oct 2012
Posted in Napa/Sonoma
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| Peters and Miller in the vineyard behind Kokomo Winery |
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03 Wednesday Oct 2012
Posted in Newspaper Column 2012
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One of my goals since I started wine writing was to grow distribution to 20 newspapers. I achieved that just a few weeks ago, picking up the Huntington, In., newspaper and a free distribution entertainment newspaper in Michigan – Off the Water.
My second goal was to gain exposure in Indianapolis. I achieved that one today.
I will begin writing a twice-a-month piece on wine for NUVO, Indy’s Alternative Voice, beginning Oct. 19. I will custom write the columns for NUVO with a focus on Indiana, Indianapolis, and local issues. I will also do occasional features on wine.
Adding NUVO‘s 40,000-plus free distribution in metropolitan Indianapolis brings my total reach to nearly 300,000 homes monthly.
A big thanks to Entertainment Editor Scott Shoger for his welcoming to NUVO.
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27 Thursday Sep 2012
Posted in California, Napa/Sonoma
Don’t just walk past those brands you see everywhere, because some are really worth your hard-earned dollars.
Ravenswood Zinfandel has seemingly been around forever. You can seemingly find it in groceries, liquor stores, and most wine shops. Ravenswood has a nice line of value wines and and even better line of vineyard designate and higher priced bottles.
Ravenswood 2009 Sonoma County Old Vine Zinfandel – This is a step up from Ravenswood basic entry level Zin and it’s dynamite wine for the money.
It’s rich, smoky, big fruit and nicely balanced red wine. You’ll get the dark fruit, maybe chocolate, and other rich flavors from this wine. It is like most California Zins in that it will hit you with 14.9 percent alcohol. But the fruit does a nice job holding up on the front of the palate. This $15.99 bottle doesn’t quite have the peppery finish I love of slightly higher priced Zins, but it will be a great pairing with your BBQ or pulled pork.
Ravenswood 2009 Sonoma County Old Vine Zinfandel, $15.99 SRP, trade sample, Recommended.
Kokomo Winery 2007 Cabernet Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma – Indiana native Erik Miller has made a name for himself in Sonoma’s Dry Creek Valley with Cab, Zin, and even his ever-improving white wines.
His 3007 is a nice Cabernet that you will find priced a bit all over the ballpark. I found it ranging from $31 to into the $40s on a net search; but I picked it up on one of the flash internets sites for just under $20 a bottle.
The wine is a big fruity, spicy Cabernet that may not be complex as some but very satisfying. I enjoyed the Cab with a ribeye off the grill and found myself quickly ‘quaffing’ down the Cabernet.
It does have a nice long finish and one you could decant and serve to most wine fans. Serve it with a well-peppered steak and its sure to be a hit.
I liked this wine a lot for what I paid for it and think it’s still a good buy at just over $31.
Kokomo Winery 2007 Cabernet Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma, $32 avg price on net, Highly Recommended as value buy for California Cab.
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25 Tuesday Sep 2012
Posted in California, Napa/Sonoma, Uncategorized
But Erik Miller has achieved the unlikely career path with the success of Kokomo Wineries, named after his Central Indiana hometown. It’s a story of two Purdue roommates and a fourth generation Sonoma grape grower combining their passion.
He accepted an offer to do harvest work for a California winery. “That’s how I became passionate about wine,” he said. “I worked with grapes in the outside and watched the winemaker working. I put all my effort then toward that career – being in the wine industry.”
Miller makes wines widely available in the Midwest. His Cabernet Sauvignon is a big fruity but well-balanced wine that can be found in many wine shops.
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13 Thursday Sep 2012
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Have you spent a summer looking through Rose’ colored glasses? If not, it’s never too late.
Sales are really exploding in this country for Rose’ wines – that happy middle between whites and reds. The beautiful dry Rose’ wines will please almost any palate.
Here are three worthy of your consideration.
Chaeau La Tour De Beraud 2011 Rose – The Costieres De Nimes region of Southern France produces many nice Rose’ wines. This was one of the most enjoyable I tasted this summer. This Rose was 50 percent Grenache, 30 percent Mourvedre, and 20 percent Syrah.
A simple primer on the grapes is that Grenache will give it great fruit flavor, the Mouvredre will add a little color and the Syrah adds body and mouth feel to the wine.
The wine had delightful fruit and balance. Rose’ done right is always very drinkable wine and this one was one of the best. It was in limited supply when I bought it several weeks ago in Indiana. If you find the wine, buy it.
Chateau La Tour De Beraud 2011 Rose, $11-$14, Very Highly Recommended.
Borsao 2011 Rose’ – One of my first really great Rose’ wines was a Spanish Garnacha-based wine. During my last trip to the wine shop, I realized I hadn’t had one this year! So I picked up a very affordable Borsao 2011 Rose.
Before any wine geekiness – the Borsao Rose’ can be found for $7-$12. At that price, you should buy a case.
The Garnacha (same as French Grenache) makes beautiful and fruity wines – especially Rose. The wine had nice balance but pretty mild acidity, perhaps too mild for some tastes. But it kills the drinkability test.
The differences between a Spanish Garnacha Rose’ and a blend from Southern France will be slight for many but worth the exploration.
Borsao 2011 Rose’, $7-$12, Recommended
Cuvee des Messes Basses Ventoux 2011 Rose’ – A Grenache blend Rose that is easily the lightest of the three reviewed here. Now, that does not mean it’s flavorless. But the fruit is mild, its soft on the palate and the acidity is barely detected.
Many wine writers/critics would hate this wine for all of those reasons. I like it for all those reasons. I like big bold wines, light bodies wines and wines which fall everywhere in between.
It’s delightful, non-complicated wine that’s easy to drink. Isn’t that what most of us are looking for on most trips to the wine shop?
Cuvee des Messes Basses Ventoux 2011 Rose’, I couldn’t find what I paid for it but under $15, Recommended.
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