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Howard W. Hewitt

~ … The "W" stands for wine!

Howard W. Hewitt

Category Archives: Food & Travel

Plow and Anchor Indy’s Newest

18 Monday Aug 2014

Posted by Howard in Food & Travel

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Tags

Black Market, Bluebeard, Cerulean, John Adams, Plow and Anchor

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A big spoon of whipped cream atop a lavendar biscuit.
A big spoon of whipped cream atop a lavendar biscuit.

INDIANAPOLIS, IN. – The Indianapolis food scene just seems to get better and better with each new restaurant opening. It was no surprise when John Adams opened Plow and Anchor on Pennsylvania that it would quickly take its spot alongside the other city standout eateries.

Adams has worked at some of the city’s finest restaurants and drew accolades for his startup Bluebeard in Fountain Square. That restaurant was a James Beard Foundation nominee for Best New Restaurant. Adams left Bluebeard, spent some time in Louisville but has returned to focus on his unique combinations and seafood at the old Ambassador Hotel. The restaurant fills a space briefly occupied by The Bar at the Ambassador.

photo (10)An early Saturday evening visit, because the more reasonable dinner hours were booked solid, was a roller coaster for the taste buds. Perhaps the photos above better illustrate the adventure than any words but it’s best to offer a few details of my dinner companion and our appetizers, entree’, and shared dessert.

I started with serano and melon – wonderful salty Spanish ham with fresh Indiana watermelon and cantelope. Foodies might call the presentation ‘deconstructed’ versus the normal presentation, I just called it delicous.

My friend had the really unique and tasty Bean Salad featureing potatoes, green beans, grape tomatoes, celery, bacon, egg and dill ranch. It was a real treat and very reasonably priced appetizer at just $7.

I usually like scallops as an appetizer, but made it my dinner choice. The seared scallops – nearing ‘well-done’ but not over cooked – were served with braised dandelion greens, roasted tomato, and a cauliflower puree’ for $32. It was magical. The only flaw in the dish were bits of the braised dandelion missed seasoning or something and was quite bitter.

My friend had the pork snitzel which tasted fresh, tender and crispy. The traditional German favorite took a modern twist with Adams’ roasted cauliflower, eggplant, pickled onion, raisins, fennel almond sauce, and harissa.

Dessert didn’t disappoint with more flair for the unusual pairings which has made Adams a trendsetter in Indy. We shared the lavendar biscuit dessert with strawberries, rhubarb, pea anglaise, pea shoots. Yes, pea anglaise and pea shoots on a dessert. All I can say is it made sense in the mouth.

We enjoyed a bottle of Gerard Bertand Picpoul white with dinner, with a typcial markup from about $15 to $35. Restaurant service was polite, professional and well-timed.

The unusual mixing of ingredients presents a delightful challenge to the palate. Plow and Anchor now takes its rightful spot along several Indy dinner spots like Black Market, the aforementioned Bluebeard, and Cerulean.

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Lange Calls Investment Validation

07 Thursday Aug 2014

Posted by Howard in Food & Travel, Oregon

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Oregon’s Willamette Valley has earned its place on the shelf. In the last 10-15 years. The  Pinot Noir wines from the Northwest have proven to be good enough to be compared to French Burgundy.

Grape Sense LogoCritics love the terroir-driven wines while consumers find an increasing selection of Oregon Pinot on wine shop shelves. The notoriety has made many Oregon wineries household names.
But modest beginnings rooted in the 1970s and 1980s has also drawn the attention of major players in the wine industry. An argument could be made that first happened when Burgundy’s Robert Drouhin bought land and started Domaine Drouhin in 1987. Arguably that gave Oregon Pinot the credibility to grow.

But the last two years has brought two more big names and has drawn the wine world’s attention. Kendall Jackson wines purchased the Solena Winery in Yamhill, in a sale estimated to be near $10 million, late last year. Then earlier this year the Jackson family made it clear they were going to be a major player with a 250-acre vineyard purchase in the Eola-Amity Hills region.
Long-time Willamette producers should look it as validation, said winemaker Jesse Lange of Lange Estate Winery.

JesseWeb

Jesse Lange chatting in early June at the winery tasting room.

“Jackson family wines is still privately owned and still highly regarded in the marketplace for making good wines,” he said in June. “They own a lot of really good vineyard sites. Plus, they command a lot of shelf space in a way not a lot of other companies do not. So for them a Willamette Valley Pinot Noir is a line extension. They’re not building a category, they’re taking advantage of a category and all they have to do is create the product.”

Lange’s pragmatic approach is one of positive thinking and confidence. “I think it’s a statement of where our region has been and where its going and what the potential is for our region,” the second generation winemaker said. “It’s sort of a natural evolution, I suppose, with today’s economics of a wine-growing region becoming mature. I think (the Willamette Valley) has developed respect across all wine shops and wine lists in the world. I’m not up in arms, ‘oh, the big companies are coming to Willamette.’ It was going to happen any way. Maybe it’s a referendum on the success we’ve achieved.”

But the investment doesn’t stop there. Louis Jadot, another equally famous Burgundy producer, purchased a 20-acre vineyard in the Yamhill-Carlton AVA last year. Jadot brought retired Burgundy winemaker Jacques Lardiere out of retirement to lead the Oregon effort beginning with the 2013 harvest. Observers are watching to see how the wines will be marketed and if the company makes more land purchases. Jadot controls more than 600 acres of vineyard in France.

LangeGlass

For my palate, Lange is one of Oregon’s consistent producers.

“I hope its just a new chapter on what we’ve done,” Lange said. “I hope some of the old timers see it as more of a validation than referendum but you never know. The Willamette wine industry has already created (a market) for our wines.”

The additional major players can only make the Willamette brand stronger. Lange’s approach on the new arrivals is a confident one as he brings new vineyards into production and builds on his established brand.

Pinot Noir lovers are in for exciting wines from Oregon for years to come.
Howard’s Pick: My favorite value-priced Oregon Pinot is Lange’s Willamette Valley Pinot Noir. It consistently delivers well above its lower $20 price point.

BLOGGER NOTE: I have quite a bit more from Jesse Lange on his wines and exciting news about the future from his vineyards. I’ll have that up soon.

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Food Passion Highlights Bridlewood Visit

14 Monday Jul 2014

Posted by Howard in California, Food & Travel, Wine Education/News/Updates

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Bridlewood Estate Winery
Bridlewood Estate Winery
The wine bloggers enjoyed a lakeside picnic.
The wine bloggers enjoyed a lakeside picnic.
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Across the lake a hillside Syrah vineyard
Across the lake a hillside Syrah vineyard
Inside the winery.
Inside the winery.
Winemaker Mark Williams
Winemaker Mark Williams
Bridlewood Chardonnay aged in cenment
Bridlewood Chardonnay aged in cenment
Stephanie Mutz
Stephanie Mutz

BUELLTON, Ca. – The only wine word more over used than terroir is probably passion. A lot of people talk about it but it’s really special when you see it.

The final day of the 2014 Wine Bloggers Conference featured morning sessions and wrapped up. Some of the nationwide bloggers signed up for afternoon excursions, including one to the stunning Bridlewood Estates Winery.

The passion came from a chef, hog farmer, fisherwoman, and a farming couple. The combination of food and wine is what makes and event like WBC special. And while the bloggers spent a weekend listening to passionate winemakers, it was the first opportunity to combine wine and food and see the passion of artisan craftsmanship in food sourcing.

The interesting thing for the story-telling bloggers is the passion came out of a discussion about social media and food regulations.

“It’s not about the money for any of us,” said Stephanie Mutz of Sea Stephanie Fish. “I’m here to provide a seafood source. I’m for regulations but they come at a cost. All of the regulations cost me a lot. I just want to go fishing.”

Mutz makes a weekly run to Newport Beach to sell her catch. She took the time to explain her relationship with Jeff Olsson, a local caterer and owner of Industrail Eats in Buellton. She uses social media to let people know about her catch.

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Francis, Valley Piggery

“I use Twitter and Instagram because there’s not a lot of people out there underwater or on a boat. I don’t do it a lot because I don’t want to be a marketer; I want to be a fisherman.”

The fresh food movement serves Mutz and others well. It’s created a demand somewhat for the unknown. “If Stephanie catches two Bluefin Tuna and that hits social media, I have four people within 10 minutes at the restaurant wanting to order,” Olsson said.

“Then when one of my chefs post something they’ve made from my product I have other chefs say, ‘I want that too,’ “ Olsson said. She provides seafood to several Los Angeles restaurants.

There is also a practical side to using modern technology even if business is good. “It’s hard to imagine running my business without email and social media,” said Jake Francis of Valley Piggery. “I don’t have a retail location. It’s what I call farming the desk and I wish I had more time to do it.”

The panelists showed a strong sense of working together. “We have a great sense of community,” Francis agreed. “We can go out and eat food sourced locally – and we know where it’s come from.”

Bridlewood Winemaker Mark Williams answered questions about his Chardonnay and Syrah served with small bites during the education segment of the winery visit. He gave his take on one of the most recent hot topics, literally – the weather. “The lack of rainfall the last two years is not just an agricultural problem,” he said. “We could see water rationing and other things.”

Williams noted his vineyards are irrigated by a well but he had early bud break this year and verasion is already underway for some grapes like Zinfandel.

The visit was highlighted by the panel a lunch by a small lake, and the aura of the stunning estate.

 

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Tasting Ballard Canyon Syrah at #WBC14

12 Saturday Jul 2014

Posted by Howard in California, Food & Travel, Wine Education/News/Updates

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Ballard County Syrah winemakers.

Ballard County Syrah winemakers.

BUELLTON, Ca. – Syrah – the blessed and equally cursed grape of California is getting specialized treatment in Ballard Canyon, Santa Barbara County. Ballard producers used the Wine Bloggers Conference to share their take on the wine and how they’re trying to do something special to elevate Syrah.

I’m live blogging this event! Syrah has been a problematic category for quite a while. The notion of Syah has been hard to define because of bad marketing. The winemakers had more than a bit of fun with the problems of selling Syrah wines. They discussed the terroir of Ballard Canyon and suggested a regional identity requires a quorum – you need a chorus – like the eight winemakers on Saturday’s panel.

To the wines and winemakers:

Mike Larner spoke about terroir and his wine.

Mike Larner spoke about terroir and his wine.

Mike Larner of Larner Wines credited the people at the table for getting the group together. “Santa Barbara has an interesting geological history,” Larner said. He talked about the movement of soil through the centuries from San Diego to Santa Barbara. “What is unique we all have some sort of sand on top and beneath it we all have some sort of limestone. In the end the sand on top creates a unique growing environment to stress the vines. That sand renders fruit with intensity and clarity in the wine.”

Kimsey 2012 Syrah – Vineyard manager Ruben Solozano talked about his new Syrah which won’t be released until this fall. The very small production is 95 percent Syrah with a splash of Viognier.The wine was very austere. It certainly was tight from a “very young vineyard.”  The flavor had good intensity but clearly needs time in the bottle.

Beckman La Purisima Mountain Syrah 2012 – Steve Beckman talked about making Syrah for 20 years sourcing grapes from the entire region. “We were quickly and easily convinced that Ballard Canyon was uniquely special for Syrah. This is a warm area that acts like a coor region. I think this wine is a good representation of a cool climate/warm climate Syrah wrapped up in one glass. You get good fruit but also the old world elegance with a silkiness mouthfeel.”

This 100 percent Syrah was delightful from one of the region’s best-known producers. It had a wonderful nose of dark fruit and a reasonable peppery finish.

Stolpman Originals 2012 Syrah – Pete Stolpman introduced the Ballard Canyon bottle with “Ballard Canyon molded around the top of the bottle. Stopman said this lighter and fruitier Syrah came from the vineyard’s original vines. It really was a unique Syrah for the brighter and fresher fruit style.

Rusack 2012 Syrah Reserve – Steve Rusack talked about his family small vineyard. “This wine sees more new oak than our other wines. I think it showcases what we can do at Rusack with many different blocks of vineyard, We want to show what we can do with different vintages and this is a good representation of that.

Rusack sets in the center of Ballard Canyon and gets the wine right. I loved the balanced and sily mouth feel of this Syrah about all the others. I thought Beckman would be my favorite wine before we started but the Rusack is in the hunt. Delightful mouthfeel and drinkable wine.Rusack has the only tasting room in the canyon. Some have tasting rooms in other locations.

Harrison Clarke Cuvee Charlotte 2010 Syrah – Hillarie Clarke, owner, talked about the small production winery. “Our wine making is very minimalistic,” she said. “We use very little sulfur, adding it just a couple of weeks before we bottle. I think what makes this wine special is the limestone gives it that minerality.”

The wine had really nice pronounced fruit on the front of the palate but too much acid on the finish.

Larner 2010 Estate Syrah – Mike Larner said “we try to be true to our soil, climate and my father’s devotion to Cornas. What was unique about Larner and I started to see it when we got together with other winemakers is our soil characteristic.”

This wine had a wonderful blance showing the deft hand of a talented winemaker. Big fruit, a nice finish and a delightful food Saarloos of Saarloos and Sons. “Syrah sucks but in the hands of these different artists it becomes something beautiful.”

“You can now visit Burgundy in Santa Rita Hills, Bordeaux in Happy Canyon, and Northern Rhone in Ballard Canyon.”

Unfortunately, we didn’t get to taste his wine.

Beckman and Rusack were the winners for me today!

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The Happiest Place on Earth?

12 Saturday Jul 2014

Posted by Howard in California, Food & Travel, Wine Education/News/Updates

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Grassini, Happy Canyon, Ken Brown, Longoria, Samford, Santa Barbara County, St, Westerly, Wine Bloggers Conference

Richard Samford, founder of Samford wines.

Richard Samford, founder of Samford wines.

 BUELLTON, Ca. – I may have visited the happiest place on Earth Friday night and no, I didn’t go to Disneyland!

Though a tad corny it probably describes the highlight of my first day at the 2014 Wine Blogger’s Conference. The day was a full one but capped with one of the conference’s signature events – the winery-hosted evening dinner. Organizers put nearly 300 bloggers on about 10 buses and we head out to winery for dinner. We scribes don’t know where we’re going until on the bus.

Our group of about 20 were delighted to visit the far east end of St. Ynez Valley — Happy Canyon. Six small wineries poured for us at the Grassini Winery. The fun thing was these were all tiny – by California standards and even Santa Barbara standards – wineries. These true boutique wineries produce as few as 700 cases of wine up to just a couple thousand.

The east end of the valley gets less of the cool ocean air in the east-west valleys off the Pacific. Therefore, Happy Canyon can grow the Bordeaux varietals that the west end cannot. Conversely, you won’t find any of the area’s signature Pinot Noir either.

And I wouldn’t be doing the canyon justice without mentioning its beauty, hillside vineyards, beautiful evening sun lighting the mountain sides and vineyards, and we were treated to a huge full moon coming up over the mountains as we headed back to Buellton.

All six wineries had a Sauvignon Blanc, a few with a bit of Semilion, and all were good – not outstanding. But the really big hit was the wonderful Bordeaux style blends. Even the Cabernet driven blends were wonderful – softer and rounder fruit with a smooth finish. Most had the reds at a hefty $50-$70 price but that’s not out of line for small hand-crafted production.

The gist of this is you’ll never find the wines if you’re not in the area but when visiting wine regions seek out these kind of producers for something exciting and different.

The conference kicked off with two sessions I enjoyed. Corbett Barr, Fizzle, a bit of a blogging guru who isn’t a wine blogger gave some great advice about driving a blog’s reach to more people regardless of the topic. That’s a separate post.

The second session, and I will definitely be writing about this one, featured four Santa Barbara pioneers who’ve made wine in the region since the 1970s and 1980s. It was one of the day’s big highlights.

Samford, Qupe, Longoria, and Ken Brown are names real wine folks will know.

The fun event is one of WBC’s signatures. We live blogged and tweeted speed dating/speed tasting wine. Ha! We tasted 10 wines in 50 minutes. See previous post.

More great sessions today and another late afternoon round of live Tweeting – this time wioth red wines. Follow my Tweets at: @howardhewitt

 The conference wraps up Sunday morning followed by one afternoon excursion. After that, I’m driving up to Paso Robles for a day-long stay then to Sonoma/Napa Tuesday.

 

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Meandering Day 1 Blog from Buellton

11 Friday Jul 2014

Posted by Howard in California, Food & Travel

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Tags

Alta Maria Vineyards, Buellton, Los Olivo, Roblar Wines, Santa Barbara, Solvang, Terceto Wines, WBC14

 

So I took the picture - please note it's NOT a selfie!

So I took the picture – please note it’s NOT a selfie!

BUELLTON, CA. – Day one of exploring Santa Barbara wine country was more than satisfying. I’m here for my first Wine Blogger’s Conference, the biggest annual gathering of wine writers in the country.

Nearly 300 participants are registered to hear speakers and swill a whole lot of fermented grape juice – a lot!

So here is a quick overview about this little part of California after just one full day.

BUELLTON

This little town is clearly the gateway to wine country after you come off Hwy 101 along the Pacific from Santa Barbara. The town is not quite 5,000 people and mostly known for Anderson’s Pea Soup restaurant and as the location for the movie Sideways.

Beyond that, it seems to be a collection of small motels built in the 1950s which now apparently house much of the latino work force – at least based on an early morning walk/jog.

The surrounding small towns of Lompoc, Solvang, and Los Olivos – among several others – bring the tourists in to taste, taste, and taste.

If Buellton has an active attraction, it’s the Hitching Post Restaurant on the side of town – made famous, again, by the movie. By some odd stroke of coincidence, a Hoosier friend is in the vicinity and we’re working on doing dinner there Saturday night.

SOLVANG

So arriving early Wednesday gave me a chance to explore Thursday. After considerable consultation, I headed to Los  Olivos via Solvang. $3

Solvang was fun – if not overwhelmingly – touristy. The entire village appears to have been plopped down along the Central Coast and now features plenty of Danish bakeries, gift shops, restaurants and lots of lots of not-so-Danish tasting rooms.

I made the obligatory Danish purchase, and walked around a bit watching tourists take selfies in front of several windmills. I had a couple of recommended wine stops but being a bit too independent, I decided to stop right along main street and sample Roblar wines.

The two delightful tasting room ladies were great. The $40 Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir was very light on the palate, a nice finish but not quite enough fruit for my palate.  The biggest seller from the downtown tasting room is a Santa Ynez $35 bottle of Syrah – certainly in a lighter style but tasty.

My favorite glass was the 2011 Grassetto blend of 50-50 Cab and Sangiovese. The $35 wine had a great spicy finish, pair well with food, or even work as a sipper for those who like a little bit bigger wines.

LOS OLIVOS

If Solvang was for the family and touristy as Disney, Los Olivos is touristy for wine geeks. This little town – in the heart of Sideways country – has nearly 40 tasting rooms, a few restaurants and not much else.

Through the magic of social media, I connected with the owner/winemaker of Tercero wines who invited me stop by his tasting spot. James, the very affable tasting room manager, was charming, funny, and knowledable.

I really liked the 2012, $25 Grenache Blanc, 2013, $20, Mourvedre Rose, and $30 Verbiage – a Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre blend – but just don’t call it a GSM. (That’s the words of James who said ‘that’s just lazy!”)

But the big winner for me was the (unlisted on the tasting sheet) Rousanne. I’ve tasted a; few California Rousanne wines and several from its native French Rhone regions. I’ve never tasted a better Rousanne for its understated richness and balance. This $25 bottle of wine was my best taste of the day.

James insisted I visit Alta Maria Vineyards before I leave town, so who was I to argue after that dynamite line up.

I had several recommendations for the same lunch spot – Sides Hardware and Shoes. And with a name like that, it HAS to be good! (… with apologies to Smuckers, of course).

I had the Hammered Pig Salad – a fried pork tenderloin with arugula, pecans, strawberries, parmesan, and lemon garlic dressing. I cleaned my plate like a good boy with an accompanying glass of Beckman Rose’ of Grenache.

That final stop was Alta Maria Vineyards, with Stephanie! The $28 Santa Maria Valley Chardonnay was really delightful. I credited the 20 percent neutral oak for the Chalbis-like characteristics though the malolactic fermentation is always a bit much for my palate.

A new blogger friend from L.A. and I tasted through all of the five Pinot Noirs and thought most were excellent to outstanding. A highlight was the 2012 Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot for $52. The vines from one of California’s most famous vineyards date back to 1973.

These were all outstanding Pinots which would only get better with age. They all needed sometime down before consumption, but were outstanding.

Before we left, our new friend Stephanie pulled out a bottle of stunning Rose’ of Pinot. Only a few cases remain and I could see why.

The Rose was quite simply the best domestic Rose’ I’ve ever tasted. At $25, it kicked many of my favorite Provence wine’s butt!

Not a bad way to start a week and a half of great wine.

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Having trouble inserting photos with Wi-Fi and laptop. So just placing a couple where I can for now.

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Antinori Delivers in Glass, Plate

21 Saturday Jun 2014

Posted by Howard in Food & Travel, Italy

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Antinori, Antinori Palace, Antinori Tuscan White, Florence, Italy

FLORENCE, ITALY – I’m always a little leary of people going outside their expertise. But there was nothing worrisome Saturday night at the historic Antinori Palace restaurant and wine bar.

appetizerThe iconic Italian wine family started a tasting room in the late 1950s – that would be about 600 years after they started making wine.

I had visited the Antinori bar about four years ago and found it very attractive, if not a bit stodgy or pretentious. It’s good to report that it was neither Saturday night with a group of 25 folks associated with Wabash College. It proved to be one of the best meals I’ve had in ages, and I’ve had some good ones lately.

We did shared appetizers and desserts with everyone ordering their own first (pasta, soup, or salad) and second (steak, veal, vegetable) course. The proscuitto wrapped melon, zucchini salade, and small crostini with several toppings got us off to a strong start with the affordable Antinori Tuscan white. The white wine is widely available in the U.S. I’d never had it before but found it delightful  and far about the usual  U.S.. price.

vealI had the fresh tomato soup, which had lots  of basil and oregano with great texture. The huge hit for me was the tender, juicy veal with perfectly roasted potatoes.

We had a dessert plate of cheesecake with fresh strawberries, biscotti, and a delightful pear cake in a cream sauce. A small sip of the Italian dessert wine Vin Santo and we all went home happy campers.

The photos do better than I do at this hour!

Bouna notte from Italia!

 

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Tasting Oregon to Tuscany

21 Saturday Jun 2014

Posted by Howard in Food & Travel, Italy, Oregon

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Tags

Brunello, Chianti, Oregon, Pinot Noir, Sangiovese, Tuscany, Willamette Valley

SIENA, ITALY – From the lush green countryside of Oregon’s Willamette Valley to the majesty and golden valleys of Tuscany, a common refrain connects wine lovers. There’s nothing better than good food and good wine.

Grape Sense LogoGrape Sense’s first private wine tour, a five-day exploration of Oregon, was followed by a 10-day excursion in Italy’s Siena, Florence, and Rome. The first trip was private and wine/food focused while the current trip is about education and paying-job related. But in Italy there is no escaping the wine and food. And, who would want to do that any way?

In Italy the gracious ristorante and trattoria owners offer smiles, warmth, and endless platters of great food. A mid-week drive through the heart of Tuscany was time for a short lesson on Italian wine. The travel group of 20 seems to enjoy wine but wanted to understand Tuscany for its wine as well as its art and history. The college professor leading the tour handed me the touring coach microphone for a quick lesson.

It occurred to me as we resumed the ride, it’s a lesson that needs repeated.

The not-so-difficult hurdle to understanding Italian, for that matter French, wine is to understand geography. The Old World wine countries identifiy wines by region and not grape. If you’re having steak and want a nice big California Cabernet, you head to the wine shop and buy a Cabernet. But in Italy you might buy a Super Tuscan or Brunello – neither of those wines are a grape. But each are made from Sangiovese – the grape most identified with Europe’s boot.

I shot this vineyard photo about 10 mi. from Montalcino

I shot this vineyard photo about 10 mi. from Montalcino

Sangiovese dominates Tuscany and makes the Chianti, Chianti Classico, and Brunello wines. Sangiovese is usually blended with Cabernet, and sometimes a bit of Merlot or even Syrah, in the Super Tuscan wines.

In Italy’s Trattorias (think small restaurant) to the nice ristorantes the Rosso flows freely from the jug or pitcher. A Rosso is essentially a table wine and almost always Sangiovese. It’s not fair to over generalize Sangiovese as bottom of the barrel wine production, but who ever said we’d be fair.

The Rosso wines are pleasant enough and usually lighter than a Chianti with less acidity and less of the full dark cherry flavor of most Chianti. The quality varies greatly but it’s satisfying enough for the average tourist palate.

Our travel group enjoyed an unique picnic in Montalcino, a hilltop town in the very heart of Brunello – Sangiovese’s shining-moment wine.

We had a huge spread of crusty bread, salami, and Italy’s wonderful prosciutto and smoked prosciutto. We bought three different Brunello wines and a white to show our friends the difference between Italy’s entry level Rosso and its biggest star.

It was a big hit. Many had come to Italy expecting great wine at each meal and were slightly disappointed they had not found that. But now they’re spoiled and my work is complete!

But on a more serious note, there is nothing better than exploring everything a new wine region – whether it’s a state or country – has to offer. And when the opportunity arises, explore that wine region from its least to its best.

Chianti wines are widely available from the supermarket to wine shops. I always suggest trying the Chianti Classico which offers softer tannins and richer fruit for just a few dollars more. Great Classicos can be found at under $25. Brunello is king of the Tuscan mountains but substantially more expensive, starting at twice the per bottle cost of a good Classico.

We’re off to Florence as this is written and then Rome – more great wild boar sauce, pasta, beef, veal and Sangiovese await.

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Oregon Foods Holds Own Against Pinot

15 Sunday Jun 2014

Posted by Howard in Food & Travel, Oregon

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Tags

Abby McManigle, Lange Estate Winery, Nick's Italian Cafe, Recipe - A Neighborhood Kitchen, Red HIlls Market, Winderlea Winery

Aged ribeye at Nick's Italian Cafe

Aged ribeye at Nick’s Italian Cafe

WILLAMETTE VALLEY – From our bed & breakfast’s wonderful muffins, scones and entries to a fabulous farm-to-fork dinner at Newberg’s Recipe our Oregon wine trip proved to be just as much about food as wine.

While not really reviewing each meal, I want to share how we ate during a week focused on wine where dining nearly stole the show. I have lots of photos to be added in next couple days.

Our first stop was at Lange Estate Winery and it was a perfect way for the group to get to know each other, enjoy a wonderful time in the Lange winery with a winemaker, and enjoy the artisan foods of Dundee’s Red Hills Market.

Our lunch spread featured cheeses, sausage, olives, hazelnuts, wonderful sandwiches on artisan bread and huge cookies. The lemon/lavender cookies had everyone talking.

But that was just getting started. That evening we dined at Nick’s Italian Café in McMinnville, perhaps the oldest spot known for fine food. I expected good but Nick’s was simply incredible. The chef prepared a three course meal with appetizer and dessert just for our group. They also provided an Oregon and Italian wine with each course.

We started antipasta plate of meat and cheeses then we all went crazy for savory custard of green garlic with pickled spring onions and seared shitakes. It was one of two dishes of the week! I’ll get to the other. The wines were an Archery Summit Pinot Gris and Italian Vermentino.Manigle

Our Second course was a delightful pasta/sausage dish in olive oil and parnmesan sauce. Next came the most tender in-house aged ribeye you can ever imagine. We finished with a cheese plate.

Lunch at Winderlea Winery the next day held its own prepared by former Tina’s chef Abby McManigle. While consuming the vineyard views we nibbled on a crostini with a goat cheese mousse, cherries, cracked almond and mint. The lunch’s second dish was the other most-talked about one of the week.

Our second course was seared prawns in a Tomatillo with a fresh corn basil relish. It rocked with sips of Winderlea’s Chardonnay – one of the region’s best for my palate. We enjoyed coffee-chile crusted beef, purple potatoes and baby greens. The finish was a vanilla crumb cake, fresh strawberries and buttermilk citrus sauce. It was pretty rockin with Winderlea’s vineyard-designate Pinot Noir.

The grand meal wrapping up the week was at the heralded Recipe – A Neighborhood Kitchen – restaurant in Newberg. After onion tart and escargot appetizers, the group feasted on duck and an array of yummy desserts.

Every bite was a highlight at Recipe but the big hit might have been a drink. We had a bottle of 2000 Eyrie Vineyard Pion Noir that just might have been the best glass of Pinot in my seven years of wine writing.

So the trip might have been billed as a Pinot Noir trip – and it certainly was -but future trips will also emphasize the incredible cuisine of the Northwest. Check back frequently for dates on the 2015 Drink & Eat Oregon experience!

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First Wine Tour Shapes Future Trips

15 Sunday Jun 2014

Posted by Howard in Food & Travel, Oregon

≈ 1 Comment

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Black Walnut Inn, Burgundy, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, wine travel

OREGON’S WILLAMETTE Valley – Flying home Saturday night, readying for a new adventure starting Monday, I’m reflecting on a debriefing session I had last night with the eight participants on my first wine tour.

Our five nights and four days in Oregon’s Willamette Valley were nothing short of spectacular and a rousing success. One member of the group went around the table asking couples on the trip if it had lived up to expectations and each said it was far more than they ever expected. That was rewarding.

What I learned from this group of friends is that I need to emphasize the wonderful food as much as the wine. Instead of Pinot Palooza, how about Drink & Eat Oregon?

I’ve also toyed with the idea of putting together a less costly version of this trip and after the evaluation I’m leaning strongly against it. The experience our group had in Oregon should be duplicated for others and not lessened to save a few hundred bucks a person on cost.

The fabulous Black Walnut Inn is unmatched in hospitality, location, and beauty. The views on top of the hill surrounded by vineyards, and a view of Mt. Hood on a clear day, is where I want to take groups.

The Oregon wine community hospitality was unmatched. The wine’s were off the charts. The food was simply unbelievable.
I’m going to try to get some posts, and a lot of photos, up over the next couple days from more of the trip. Meanwhile, I’m thinking I’ll repeat the trip next June and perhaps set up two trips on back to back weeks. I’ll continue to try to do the trip at 8 people, or four couples. I could do 10 but believe 8 is the perfect number. I’m going to set dates real soon and get that out for folks’ calendars.

And what happens after 2015? How about the trip of a lifetime in 2016 to France’s iconic Burgundy region? I’m also thinking about Paso Robles in the next two years.

Frankly, I couldn’t be more pleased that my first venture into wine tourism went so well!

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