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Howard W. Hewitt

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Howard W. Hewitt

Category Archives: Napa/Sonoma

Kokomo Native Makes City Name Successful Brand

25 Tuesday Sep 2012

Posted by Howard in California, Napa/Sonoma, Uncategorized

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Dry Creek, Erik Miller, Kokomo Vineyards, Sonoma

Growing up in Kokomo, In., and earning a management degree at Purdue University seems an unlikely path to a successful boutique winery in California’s Sonoma Valley.

But Erik Miller has achieved the unlikely career path with the success of Kokomo Wineries, named after his Central Indiana hometown. It’s a story of two Purdue roommates and a fourth generation Sonoma grape grower combining their passion.

“I had a buddy who moved out to Sonoma County when we were at Purdue,” Miller said. “I came out and visited him and just fell in love with the place. It was really weird for a guy from Indiana to come to San Francisco and all you have is public transportation. Then I saw Santa Rosa and thought it would be big enough to support a career and still small enough for me to fit in and be comfortable.”
Erik Miller

Erik Miller

He accepted an offer to do harvest work for a California winery. “That’s how I became passionate about wine,” he said. “I worked with grapes in the outside and watched the winemaker working. I put all my effort then toward that career – being in the wine industry.”

Miller’s love for Kokomo made naming the winery easy. Working with his college roommate Josh Bartels and grape grower Randy Peters gave him a team to direct the winery’s success. He also thinks being a Hoosier has its advantages.
“I think there is one thing we have in the Midwest and it’s this stereotype that we’re hard workers,” Miller said in the modest winery offices. “That has been a connection with me and Randy and some of the other farmers out here that we’re down to earth, salt of the earth kind of people.”
Peters, on the other hand, is a fourth generation farmer. His family produced fruit and wine grapes for decades. “We didn’t have much money growing up,” Peters said. “We were growing fruit and wine grapes but working on a low margin. My dad had a second job.”
Peters credited Miller’s hard work and integrity for their ‘handshake contract’ and shared success. “The honesty and integrity of Midwestern people is true,” he said. “Growing up here I’ve always had a passion for raising the fruit but now I can see the end result.”
Growing up Peters would watch the family harvest be sold off to very large producers and dumped into 10,000 gallon tanks with fruit from all over the region. Now his grapes to go vineyard designate wines that represent his work as well as the winery.

Miller makes wines widely available in the Midwest. His Cabernet Sauvignon is a big fruity but well-balanced wine that can be found in many wine shops.

“Maybe people will try the wine because the name is comforting too them,” Miller said. “We don’t spend extra money on the showboat things, the tasting room and winery but we will not take shortcuts on the equipment it takes to process grapes. We use the best oak we can buy, and make sure we’re sourcing the best possible grapes.”
Miller may have Midwestern industrial roots growing up in Kokomo but his wines have been lauded by the biggest competition in the world, The San Francisco Chronicle’s annual wine contest.
Note: In four years I’ve not done a two-part column. But if you want to learn a lot about wine, talk to a winemaker. Next time Miller will talk about some of his wine-making philosophy.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

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Catching Up on a Bunch of Good Wines

05 Thursday Jul 2012

Posted by Howard in Napa/Sonoma, Paso Robles & Mendocino, Spain

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Clayhouse, Jigar, Sonoma, Valdubon Crianza

Whenever I’m looking for something on my desk and keep stumbling across notes on wines I’ve tasted, it’s time to write some reviews.

Some of these wines span back a few weeks but I always make a few notes on what I thought. I’m not ever excited about reviewing wines and not sure how important it is to readers. But I do figure if someone reads the blog regularly and finds my recommendations favorable to their palate, then it’s worth doing.

So let’s catch up …

Clayhouse 2010 Syrah  – I’m a Clayhouse fan and have written that before. This value line under the Adobe label rocks and is widely available. I don’t drink Syrah often but when I do I drink Paso Robles. Hmmm, sounds familiar?

This wine has the stereotypical dark berry and fruit flavors of plum and caramel. I liked the full mouth feel and nice long finish. This juice gets just 10 month in oak making that long finish smooth instead of tannic. It’s a relatively low 13.8 percent alcohol wine.

Clayhouse 2010 Syrah, SRP $15, Trade Sample, Recommended

Valdubon 2003 Crianza – Beautiful red wine from the Ribera del Duero region of Spain which always rocks my juice palate.

I tasted pronounced black raspberry and vanilla with that wonderful silkiness you get with well-made and aged Tempranillo-driven wines. But this 100 percent Tempranillo was bolder than some. It was beautiful wine.

Even with additional press in recent years, Spanish wines remain a great value delivering superior quality for the price.

Valdubon 2003 Crianza, Around $20, Trade Sample, Highly Recommended

Jigar 2009 Pinot Noir – This Sonoma Pinot Noir is a California keeper. It comes from the Pinot-rich region of the Russian River Valley.

It’s a more full-bodied Pinot than many you’ll pick up but with good balance. It’s rich with nice minerality and acidity on the finish. There is some dark cherry on the palate. It’s really delightful wine.

Jigar 2002 Pinot Noir, Retails around $30, I got a buy under $20 at Zionsville’s Grapevine Cottage. Recommended.

NOTE: I have a few more reviews to post as well and hope to get those up Tuesday night.



Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

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Dynamite Under-$20 Pinot Noir & More

20 Sunday May 2012

Posted by Howard in California, Napa/Sonoma, Oregon

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Acrobat, Gauthier, Pinot Noir

The wine geeks among us have many quests. One such quest is usually to find a really good under 420 Pinot Noir. They’re really hard to find and can be inconsistent from vintage to vintage.

After a few thoughts on my Pinot find how about more Pinot?

Gauthier Sonoma Coast 2008 Pinot Noir – Simply put, the Gauthier is one of the best under-$20 Pinots I have ever found.

It had really nice red berry fruit, a smooth, smoke, spice and a balanced feel in the mouth and moderate acidity. Pinot at the price point isn’t always a true representation of the grape but this one sure was. It even had a richness in flavor.

All too often $15 Pinot, give or take a couple bucks, can be flat, acidic, or tasteless. The Gauthier is none of those things.

Now a caveat, I picked this wine up on clearance for about $17 but it does normally retail for near $30. So perhaps this review should have an asterik.

But if you get to know your wine retailer, the proprietor is going to point out these great deals to their best customers.

Gauthier Sonoma Coast 2008 Pinot Noir, $17-$29, Highly Recommended.

Acrobat 2011 Oregon Rose of Pinot Noir – At the start of each summer I go on a Rose binge. I have explored Rose from different countries and different grapes since I got into the wine writing.

Unfortunately, too many people still see pinkish or off colored wine and think of white zinfandel. There is no better summer sipper than dry Rose.

I’m partial to the Provence region of France and their really great salmon-colored Rose. But I still like exploring. There is a lot of Rose made from Pinot. The Acrobat comes from critic favorite King Estate Winery in Orgeon.

The Rose is a bit darker than many but really packs a dry strawberry/cherry punch. It certainly has a bigger fruit component and bigger flavor than many Rose wines. But I liked the balance and bigger flavor. It held up to chocolate and salmon off the grill.

Acrobat Rose is pretty easy to find and generally $14-$15.

Acrobat 2011 Oregon Rose of Pinot Noir, SRP $15.00, Recommended.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

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Day Two: Barrel Making, Dry Creek, and Chateau St. Jean

08 Thursday Mar 2012

Posted by Howard in California, Napa/Sonoma, Videos

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Erik Miller, Sonoma, Tonnellerie Radoux



Toasting barrels at Radoux, Windsor, Ca.
SONOMA COUNTY, Ca. – Is there anything better for a wine geek than waking up on a Thursday morning knowing you’re going to spend the day in the Russian River Valley tasting Pinot Noir?
In planning for this trip I wanted to make a visit to Kokomo, Indiana’s Erik Miller. Erik is owner winemaker for Kokomo Vineyards in the Dry Creek region of Sonoma. We finally got together on a quick phone call and he invite Drew and I to join members of his Wine Club at a barrell making demonstration. Of all my wine experiences in the four years I’ve been wine writing, I’d never seen the process.
Master Cooper Francis Durand

I certainly came away from our visit to Tonnellerie Radoux, Windsor, with a new appreciation for those oak barrels. The variables in how coopers can mix the oak and watching the hand craftmanship was fascinating. That mixture of oak plays such an integral role in how the oak win interact with the wine for the final product.

Radoux’s Master Cooper Francis Durand led us through the plant demonstrating each step of the process. This will be a future newspaper column but really enhanced my knowledge of oak and it’s sophisticated role in winemaking.

After the hour-and-a-half tour, we hopped in the car and drove the 20 minutes up Ca. Highway 101 and Dry Creek Road to Kokomo Winery. Eric greeted us with fourth-generation vineyard owner and manager Randy Peters.

There is no better education than walking the vineyards with the grower and winemaker for those who really want to know more about wine. We visited several blocks of the vineyards at the winery, talked about the dry Sonoma winter, pending bud break, and all of the things to get a wine geek all geeky.

Chatting with Erik Miller, Gary Peters at Kokomo Winery

In the tasting room Drew and I enjoyed the Sauvignon Blanc, a Cab, a really nice Pinot Noir made from Gary’s grapes near the Sonoma Coast, and two Zins. The 2009 TimberCrest Zin was one of nicest I’ve tasted in a long time. Dry Creek is known for its Zinfandel. But the area can also grow almost any varietal, it’s that variety that intriques Miller.

We had a great chat with Erik and Randy which will turn up in a future newspaper column or two.

And yes, for those who don’t know, Erik did name his winery after his hometown of Kokomo, Indiana.

Our final stop of the day was a hastily arranged visit to one of Sonoma’s best, Chateau St. Jean located betweent he cities of Sonoma and Santa Rosa on CA. 12.

The manicured vineyards of Chateau St. Jean

Our friend and host Stephen Pavy, Joseph Phelps Winery, put in a call to the St. Jean tasting room and a couple of tasting room hosts led us through a really nice tasting of their reserve wines. Newbies need to know or keep in mind even wineries like Chateau St. Jean, which is available in Indiana and all 50 states make premium wines with limited distribution or available only at the winery.

We tasted a great Pinot Gris, two Chardonnays, a couple of Pinots, and their signature Bordeaux style blend Cinq Cepages 2008. The highlight for us was the Sonoma County Reserve Merlot ($90) and Sonoma Reserve Cabernet ($90). The Cabs in Sonoma are generally a little lighter than the Napa powerhouse Cabs. But the beautiful balance and silkiness of these wines would  please most any palate.

Chateau St. Jean is a great stop and any Sonoma trip should include a visit. The grounds are truly stunning. They have a tasting room for their other wines which range in the mid-teen to $20 pricepoint.

So it’s off to the Russian River Valley this morning.. We start our day with two of the grand ladies of California wine. Our first stop is at Merry Edwards and second at Inman Family wines. Kathleen Inman is going to pour for us her Pinot. Ted Klopp, a Wabash College grad, provide Pinot grapes from his ranch to both producers. We’ll see Ted this afternoon.

If we don’t run out of time, we hope to pay a visit to the iconic Rochioli Vineyards later today.

NOTES from the road: I do have many more wonderful  photos taken by Wabash College senior Drew Casey who is along with me on the trip. The loading times are taking forever! I did get all but one or two photos from Tuesday up this morning. Just click on the photo image at upper left and scroll down to Napa Day photos. I hope to get yesterday’s up this evening.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

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California’s Biggest Stars Shine Bright

07 Wednesday Mar 2012

Posted by Howard in California, Food & Travel, Napa/Sonoma

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Joseph Phelps, Robert Mondavi, Rutherford Hill Winery



Stephen Pavy, far right, with two of his hospitality staff and me, far left, at Joseph Phelps

NAPA VALLEY,Ca. – Brands, labels, and market awareness means someting in consumer goods. Usually such awareness is because of quality, longevity, or proven success.

We wash our clothes with Tide, buy Campbell’s soup, and eat Oscar Meyer cold cuts. We do it because these companies have consistently delivered high quality and reliable product.

I write those three sentences and realize I’m about to compare wine to bologna but there is some truth in the concept at least.

Today was our “Napa Valley” day and we made four winery stops. We stopped at V. Satui Winery in St. Helena, at Napa’s north end, and later in the day at the picturesque Rutherford Hill Winery along the Silverado Trail in Napa. They were very nice stops I’d recommend to any Napa visitor – first timer or veteran.

But the day was really stolen by the iconic brands – Mondavi and Joseph Phelps. When I travel to various wine regions I consistently find opinions I’ll share with readers here and my newspaper column. My opinions are shaped first by the wine but second, and nearly as important, by the people behind the tasting room counter. A great product keeps the customer coming back but when you visit in person the authentic smile, enthusiasm and product knowledge make it easier to spend the big  bucks on these iconic wines.

I always tell inquistors that the Robert Mondavi winery is a must stop. Mondavi had either the first or nearly the first tasting room in Napa Valley. He personally shaped the American wine industry and single-handedly made Napa the wine tourist destination it is today.

Visitors can opt for the $5 tasting of Mondavi’s lower end labels. I’ve written about those in a couple of newspapers columns and singled out the Private Selection label as a great value buy.

Mondavi’s gracious hostess, Sanda

But today I opted for the $30 premium tasting of six wines and was overwhelmed. A big part of the positive experience was Sanda Manuila, wine education coordinator, a Swiss native, and the most charming hostess you could ever have pour you $100-a-bottle wines.

We started with the Mondavi Fume Blanc Reserve. I’ve had the $20 bottle and loved it. This was my first chance to taste the $40 Reserve and its was simply fabulous with intense and rich fruit with just the right amount of acidity.

Sanda poured Drew and I a 2010 Pinot Noir sold only at the winery under the PNX label. It was rich fruit, nice acidity and beautiful balance.

We then worked our way through four of the Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve wines. Wow! Each one offered a different level of smooth but bold Cab taste and balance of acidity depending on the time spent in oak barrels. These wines are far beyond the price point I usually feature here or the newspaper column. But if you go to Napa, you owe it to yourself to taste these wines. The four we tasted ranged from $135-$165. These big Cab’s scream … ‘Classic Napa Valley Cabernet.”

Obviously, these wines aren’t for everyone and the price point may make readers just shake their head. Try the Mondavi Napa Cab for about $28 and you won’t be disappointed.

Joseph Phelps has become an iconic brand on the strength of its Insignia blend which has long been a critic’s favorite. It has been a 90-point-plus wine virtually every year since its initial release in 1974. The current release is a 2008 and comes at $200 a bottle. It’s the ultimate in luxiuous red wine from one of Napa’s top producers.

Drew and I were fortunate enough to be hosted by Indiana native and Phelps’ Director of Hospitality Stephen Pavy. Stephen turned us over to Geraldine for a wine seminar. If any place has a right to be a bit haughty, patronizing, or condescending, it’s might be Phelps. But Pavy’s staff was helpful, drew us into the wine conversations, answered questions and were quite frankly charming.

We tasted the Phelps $32 Sauvignon Blanc, Freestone Chardonnay and Pinot Noir before moving to their signature Cabernet. The 2009 Cabernet at $55 is one of the best I’ve tasted at the price point. Stephen actually treated us Monday night to the Cab before Tuesday’s visit to the winery. It has concentrated fruit with great back end acidity. This will shake some readers but I often refer to wines tasting above their price points. This $55 Cab tastes like a more expensive wine.

The tasting highlight though was the chance to sip the signature Insignia. The critically acclaimed wine scored off the charts with our palate but what would you expect from a  $200 bottle of wine? It definitely lives up to it’s reputation!

The Phelps name is synomous with Cabernet but not the huge producer some might think. The winery produces 55,000-60,000 cases of wine annually.

Our other two stops were great but frankly the service was more perfunctory than genuine – at least until I pulled out my wine writing business card. I don’t always do that until after I’ve tasted.

Now all of that being said, I’d recommend V. Satui in St. Helena to most visitors. It’s a very unique stop in that they don’t distribute their wines beyond the winery. That’s almost unheard of in Napa. The wines are all done in a lighter style and I thought the wines were good. The Gamay Rouge wasn’t to my taste but is Satui’s biggest seller. It has wonderful Gamay flavor and 1.5 percent residual sugar. That sweetness makes it a big hit with the tour bus crowd.

Rutherford Hill Winery has a beautiful facility, wine storage caves, and some great views of Napa. The wines were consistently okay with the highlight being their reserve Merlot. The 2007 Merlot was as good as any I’ve ever tasted, but as a Merlot skeptic I had to ask myself if I’d really fork over $57 for Merlot. Would you?

We had a really great day in wine country. Wednesday we start our day at a barrel maker with Eric Miller of Kokomo Winery. We intend to explore the town of Sonoma in the afternoon.

My travel companion Drew Casey has some marvelous photos from today’s adventure beyond the three I’ve included here. I hope to get those up Wednesday.

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Two Great Reds: An Italian Value & California Bargain

14 Tuesday Feb 2012

Posted by Howard in California, Italy, Napa/Sonoma

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Arnaldo Caprai, Montefalco Rosso, Private Selection, Robert Mondavi

Any time you can find a special-occasion wine for $20 and a real value for $11 it’s been a good week.

I have received several trade samples of Arnaldo Caprai’s Italian wines and finally got around to opening one over the weekend. I think it has great value for $20. The other trade sample I opened Sunday night was a Meritage from Robert Mondavi. It was equally surprising and wonderful.

Arnaldo Caprai 2009 Montefalco Rosso DOC – Here is an affordable wine that value drinkers can designate for a special occasion. The wine is 70 percent Sangiovese (same as Chianti), 15 percent Sagrantino (found only in Umbria), and 15 percent Merlot. The Montefalco region is south of Perugia in Umbria.

When I first opened the bottle I thought it was nice enough, though a little light. It was well balanced but rather unremarkable. But wait, after an hour or more of breathing the dark rich fruit opened up, maybe a little sour cherry, and as smooth and rich as Italian wines at this price point can be found.

The wine had a dry and lingering finish I really enjoy. I had the Montefalco with some pretty simple pasta but I could also see it with uncomplicated beef dishes. And the mouth feel is light enough to enjoy with cheese. How about some Parmesan Reggiano drizzled with balsimic vinegar? Yummy!

I almost always check out wines on consumer review sites after I’ve scribbled down my notes and thoughts. I often go to sites like Cellartracker and others. I was amused to find this wine rated from 83 points to 91 points. I certainly would be much closer to the 91.

Arnaldo Caprai is known for his work with Sagrantino. I have two bottles at home, both samples, and plan to open one as early as this weekend. It’s something of a rare grape so it is at a price point much higher than the Montefalco. I can’t wait to try that one if the Rosso is any example of the style of winemaking.

Arnaldo Caprai 2009 Montefalco Rosso DOC, Avg U.S. Price: $19, Trade Sample, Highly Recommended 

Robert Mondavi Private Selection Meritage – I’ve tasted several wines from the Mondavi “Private Selection” label over the past year and been impressed almost every time. This is Mondavi’s entry level or call them ‘supermarket’ wines if you wish. If only all supermarket wines offered the Mondavi consistency and winemaking effort!

The 2010 Meritage is a blend of 42 percent Cabernet, 30 percent Merlot, 20 percent Malbec, and 8 percent Petit Verdo. The grapes come from Monterey County, instead of Napa, off California’s Central Coash.

It’s easy to call this a traditional Bordeaux blend as you can read from the grapes above. Nothing will knock you out about this wine but it’s availability, price, and nicely balanced structure makes it a top choice of the grocery or liquor store shelf.

The most frequently asked question here and through my other wine writing is about good wines at a grocery price – the Mondavi Private Selection is good as any. Now, there are others and that’s for another time and day but the Meritage is a very nice red blend that comes across soft, drinkable, and affordable. And my experience with wines at this price point and target audience is that you’ll often find them below the suggested retail price.

Robert Mondavi 2010 Meritage,  SRP $11, Trade Sample, Recommended

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

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