Cline Pinot Gris Rivals Northwest!

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Bright, crisp, fresh – good acid – and stainless steel sounds like a recipe for a great Oregon Pinot Gris. The Northwest state is better known for its Pinot Noir but Pinot Gris comes right behind the marvelous Burgundy-like reds.

clineWith that backdrop, consider Cline Cool Climate Pinot Gris from the Sonoma Coast. Cline is a rock solid name in the mid-teen price range. Their wines consistently deliver varietal correctness, balance, and value for the price.

But the Pinot Gris was amazing – it was sooooo good! Refreshing, bright, a hint of tartness with really nice acidity made it great with a baked pork chop. Now, this wine would rock with grilled fish or about any fish but the pork chop was already in the oven.

Cline grows its Pinot Gris on the estate along the Sonoma Coast of the cooler region. They also use sustainable growing practices and employ 2,000 solar sun panels to power their winery. Lots of good reasons to like these people and their great wines.

I recently received Cline samples of Vionier, Mourvedre Rose, Marsanne-Roussanne, and this Pinot Gris. I’m really anxious now to try Cline’s verson of those classic French Rhone grapes.

Cline 2012 Cold Climate Pinot Gris, SRP $14, Trade Sample, Very Highly Recommend.

Catching Up: Two California Reds

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Time to catch up on some wine samples and share a few thoughts. I’ll also do a little update at the bottom of the blog on my Savino wine storage testing!

But let’s get to the juice first!

OakleyOakley Eighty-Two California Red Wine – This is a product of Cline Cellars. Cline has been a big player in California value wine. The family’s roots date back to the 1800s but Cline got into the winery business in the 1980s. There family label – Cline – is widely available and  a great value wine pic.

Oakley Eight-Two is an under $10 fruity wine that is sure to please the palates of those who like more sweetness or specifically really big fruit. This bottle has a little bit of everything in it: 30 percent Syrah, 27 percent Merlot, 15 Barbera, 7 percent Zinfandel, 5 percent Alicante Bouschet, 4 percent Cabernet Franc, and 12 percent mixed red (whatever that is).

Did I mention it’s quite fruity? It does have 1.57 percent residual sugar – that’s not a lot. But the jammy fruit flavor overpowers a bit of vegetable I also found on the palate.

Neat peel-back label!

Neat peel-back label!

I think this is interesting wine – not for the taste but for its position in the marketplace. Many wineries are getting into sweeter wines. This qualifies on my palate because of the jam and toast qualities! (And I’m not talking about toasted oak!)

All of that said, it’s not my palate – but I can see how many sweet wine drinkers, and value drinkers would gobble it up.

I also got a white blend from Cline under the Oakley Eight-Two label that I couldn’t recommend.

Oakley Eight-Two California Red Wine, Trade Sample, $8.80 on website, Recommended (if you read above!)

guglielmo-2007-private-reserve-estate-grown-petite-sirah-central-coast-santa-clara-valleyGuglielmo 2008 Petite Sirah  – If you like ’em big and rich, you’re going to love this wine!

This estate grown wine from Morgan Hill in the Santa Clara Valley of California is bigger than many of the Petite Sirahs I’ve tasted lately. It is a 100 percent varietal wine with big bold acid, tannins, and dark fruit, leather, plus earthiness!

From the description you might guess big alcohol but it comes in at just 13.2 percent. This is a wine that could use big time in your decanter. I liked it, but would have liked it more after it had more air.

It’s a small production wine of just 405 cases so you know it got lots of love from the winemaker.

Guglielmo 2008 Petite Sirah, SRP $25, Trade Sample, Recommended.

Savino Update

Tonight is the third night for my bottle of Frescobaldi Tenuta Frescobaldi Di Castiglioni 2010 Toscana. I loved it the first night and decided to try out the new Savino wine preservation/decanter I’m testing.

savinoLast night, as I wrote in the first post below, the wine had changed very, very little. It tasted identical to the night before. I was impressed.

Tonight, the wine has changed some – 48 hours after opening – but is still pretty close to night one. I notice the soft fruit is not as prevalant as night one but the acidity and tannics are nearly identical. So, it’s lost just a little – very little – from Tuesday night. I remain impressed.

I want to run a white through a couple of days and a couple of different reds before writing extensively about the device.

But its easy to say after a couple of days, the Savino is very promising way to keep your wine for 24 hours or so!

A Classic Italian Label Delivers

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Frescobaldi is a name that belongs along side the Antinori label as one of the great wines from Tuscany.

frescobaldiThe Tenuta Frescobaldi Di Castiglioni 2010 Toscana is a really nice bold wine perfect for steaks, roasts, and hearty pasta. The Tuscan blend is 50 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 30 percent Merlot, 12 percent Cabernet Franc, and 8 percent Sangiovese.

The Frescobaldi delivers the typically big and bold taste of a Tuscan. It’s an inky dark red wine with notes of currant, plum and dark fruit. I get chocolate and spices on the mid palate that I really like.

The wine was pretty tannic initially but but opened nicely with a little time in the decanter.

I was taken by the wine’s balance  once it had some time to air. I loved the acidic finish as the tannics softened a bit. This affordable Tuscan is a classic example of really good Italian wine.

This wine is the flagship bottle for Frescobaldi. The grapes were hand picked and went through malolactic fermentation before 12 months in barrels and 2 months in bottles before release. It also comes in at a very reasonable 13.5 percent alcohol.

The wine has pretty consistent scores of 89-91 from top publications through recent vintages.

Tenuta Frescobaldi Di Castiglioni 2010 Toscana, SRP $25, found on the internet down to $18, Trade Sample, Highly Recommended.

savinoTesting Out New Wine Device

I’ve been talking with the developers of a new device for saving that extra wine left over when you don’t finish a bottle for a few months. The “Savino” arrived last week.

I have done a phone interview with the company founder and will share that in a future newspaper column.

Tonight’s big Tuscan wine seemed like the perfect first test for this wine saver. We’ll see!

Consider this a tease. I want to run several bottles through the Savino before coming to any judgment. There are lots of stoppers out there but I’ve not seen anything like this. And let’s face it, most of those plugs, corks, and other devices do a minimally crappy job of preserving the wine.

I did include a photo here to intrigue the curious. The product is not yet on the market but will be next week.

Stay tuned for further details!

Nice Red Blend, Pot Roast Style Beef

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Blends are the thing and there are plenty out there at incredibly reasonable prices.

Wine sells because of great quality, a name wine drinkers know, a nifty label, or a great story. Sometimes the great story is just an interesting one.

The story of San Permis is more of a good idea gone bad but the winery’s red blend was a big hit with wine drinkers while it was a round. I also enjoy a blend like San Permis with beef dishes that don’t quite come up to the level of a charred steak.

spSans Permis La Petite Colline Rouge is a Rhone style blend of Grenache and Syrah. On it’s first night it was rather light and fruity with very little detectible tannin on the finish. In other reviews, some wine fans say the juice varies from bottle to bottle. I liked the fruit much better on this wine, and even the finish, on night two.

It’s the story though of former Turley (known especially for it’s Zin) winemaker George Van Duzer starting the label in 2004. He wanted to make wine with minimalist intervention.  A good translater will tell you Sans Permis is French for ‘without license.” And indeed, Van Duzer made his wines without filtering or fining agents.

A year after he got started, the winery went into bankruptcy. Now, why write about a wine that’s no longer made? Well, it’s an interesting story though there isn’t much out there on the internet about the Sans Permis venture. More importantly, inventory of the red blend rouge, several Chardonnays, and a pretty decent Pinot Noir remain on the market. Most of the wines are being peddled at ridiculously low prices by the popular online flash sites.

Most of the Sans Permis was originally ticketed, and widely praised by critics, at the $25-$40 price range. These wines have consistently turned up on the internet in recent weeks at $9-$15. If you see the label – buy some!

My Beef/Bacon Pot Roast Dinner

4-6 slices of bacon
stewing beef
Onion
Garlic
Thyme
Carrots
Beef Stock
 … whatever else is in the fridge!

Just look at those chunks of bacon on beef!

Look at those chunks of bacon on beef!

Forget quantities, it isn’t that difficult. Adjust what you need to the number you are trying to feed. Crisp up the bacon and set it aside. Brown the beef in the bacon fat. I salt/pepper the meat in advance, then sprinkle liberally with fresh or dried thyme as I brown it in the skillet.

I chop up plenty of onion and cover the bottom of a baking dish. Throw in the beef, carrots, and some beef stock and bake low and slow. I let it roast a couple of hours at less than 350 degrees.

This is something you can play with and fix differently each time. I like to keep it real moist with the broth and put it over egg noodles. Or with a little less broth I substitute fingerling potatoes for the noodles.

I like to give my version a splash of red wine vinegar about halfway through the cooking process. It adds a little brightness to dish that can be come almost too savory.

Another variation would be adding seasoned tomatoes to the mix. It’s fast and easy. I like Hunts diced tomatoes with Rosemary and Oregano!

Oh, that crispy bacon! Eat a piece or two because – well, it’s bacon. Then have at least one piece per serving to crumble over the stew. The bacon adds a wonderful crunch and bacon-y goodness.

Pop open that red blend, lock the doors, and watch your favorite guilty pleasure on the television!

More From Chablis Winemakers

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While the effects of that California jug ‘Chablis’ had its negative impact, Chablis winemakers believe those days are largely behind them now.

Grape Sense LogoThe last Grape Sense column focused on the differences between Chablis and all other Chardonnay. Recently Chablis winemakers Jean-François  Bordet and Christian Moreau visited New York and took the time for a brief phone chat.

“I don’t think that’s still a problem,” Moreau said. “There used to be some confusion, of course, 15, 20 or 30 years ago. But in last six, seven or 10 years, people in the U.S. are more educated. They are more educated about wine because the journalists are talking about Chablis and they are talking about Chablis being made in France.

Moreau

Moreau

“Also when the younger generation sees a price of $18-$20 for Chablis, or higher for Grand Cru, they know it doesn’t come from California.  Winemakers have come to the U.S. and not just the importers. We’ve had quite a few French delegations coming and doing tastings. People are really starting to know what Chablis is and where it comes from.”

But the effort to promote Chablis isn’t necessarily a new one. Moreau said his father visited the U.S. in 1937 and 1939 to talk about Chablis. But he admitted the really effective Chablis marketing and education effort started 10 to 15 years ago. “Before that the knowledge of Chablis came from people who were wine lovers or who traveled to Europe.”

Bordet said the message never changes through generations. “Chablis is made in France and is in Burgundy,” he said. “There is no oak and we have special soil that gives the wine a freshness.”

Wine tourism remains relatively new in France and has been very slow developing in the premier region of Bordeaux. Chablis winemakers are a different breed who may not have fancy tasting rooms but they’re ready to welcome any visitor.

Bordet

Bordet

“Chablis is not far from Paris, two hours by car and less by train,” Bordet said. “You have more and more bed and breakfasts; you can have tours of the vineyard and tasting in cellar. Tourism has grown in Chablis and the winemakers will welcome you. We want to receive more tourists.”

Most people are surprised to learn that Chablis is a village of just 2,500 people. It’s very old world and welcoming. The valley around it is covered in vineyard for an idyllic setting. For tourism, the small city of Auxerre, about 40,000 inhabitants, offers a wide range of hotels and transportation companies and is less than 30 minutes away.

Moreau has an old family domaine in Chablis. He turned winemaking duties over to his son Fabien, who is also a chef, in 2001. The family name has been a part of Chablis since 1814. “We do a tour of the winery and free tasting,” he said. “We are not really organized like some wineries but if somebody wants to visit and taste we are very open to everyone.”

The more you learn about wine, and the great family stories behind wineries, the more enjoyable wine becomes. A pretty label often sells a bottle but a great story – especially when you meet the people – keeps you coming back for more.

Moreau wines and Bordet’s Domaine Sequinot-Bordet wines are available in the Midwest at better wine shops.

Back to a Reasonable Price Point

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My last blog post was for an $85 Oregon cult wine. Some would say that’s not knowing the audience. I’ve built five-and-a-half years of wine writing by focusing mostly on value wine. But I think it is interesting for the reader to learn about the big things out there – and obviously, I enjoy exploring wine from all regions at all price points.

Casillero MalbecMalbec is one of my ‘go-to’ wines and should be one of yours. Some Malbecs are certainly better than others, but taken within context of price and producer, they seldom disappoint.

I’m sipping a $12 Chilean Malbec as this gets written. The wine was opened last night and needed a little air as a young wine – not for the fruit so much but to soften the sharp edges, the astringency young wines at this price often dominate a newly opened bottle.

Malbec is king in Argentina, of course, but plenty of the little dark grape is grown next door in Chile as well. Casillero del Diablo 2011 Malbec is affordable, drinkable red wine. It’s light on the fruit when opened and given a little air, but I’m getting nice rich plum and raspberry on its second night.

There is nothing sophisticated about this wine, nor would you expect it for $12. Cellartracker members give it 87 points which I think is about right. If you’re grilling a steak or about any beef dish, red sauce pasta, or even seasoned pork – Malbec can be a great choice. Try Malbec with BBQ!

One more point I make to wine friends all the time and I wrote it at the top. My last blog post was an $85 bottle of wine while tonight’s glass has $12 wine. Learn to judge a glass of juice for what it is. You can’t compare these two wines. I thought the $85 wine was fabulous but overpriced some. This $10-$11 wine is good wine at that price point. Get it?

Cassilero del Diablo 2011 Malbec, $8-$12, Recommended.

White Pinot – Different, Expensive

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Many serious wine drinkers are serious Pinotphiles. Count me among the serious Pinot Noir junkies when it comes to great wine.

That’s partially why I couldn’t resist trying Domaine Serene‘s Coeur Blanc in the summer of 2011 while visiting Oregon’s Willamette Valley.

The Coeur Blanc is Pinot Noir – but it’s white wine!

A handful of Oregon wineries have experimented with turning Pinot to a rich and smooth white wine. Read Ryan Reichert’s story here from Palate Press.

A shot taken during my 2011 visit.

A shot taken during my 2011 visit.

Domaine Serene is largely credited as one of the pioneers of white Pinot Noir. I tasted it for the first time during that 2011 stop and was taken by just how much I enjoyed it. On the nose, it smells like a light and red Pinot Noir. On the palate it tastes like a very light bodied pinot but with an unusual richness and mouth feel.

It doesn’t have much acid but different should be different. It’s lovely wine!

coeur blanc“I like creating a white wine like this on the feminine side of things, polished, with richness and creaminess,” Domaine Serene winemaker Erik Kramer told the Eugene Register-Guard. “It’s a special wine for us. You have the varietal character of a pinot noir, but above all, the texture is that of a white wine.”

It’s a light gold color with a very faint hint of pink, almost salmon. This is not inexpensive wine and I’m not sure it’s worth the price but it’s definitely different than any white wine you’ve ever tried.

On Cellartracker and other sites, I found it ranging from $75-$95. My memory is that I paid $80 for this wine. The suggested retail price on the current 2010 release is $85.

Domaine Serene Coeur Blanc, $85, Very Highly Recommended, – for those who can afford it and love trying something different!

Conant Pairing Italian/Chablis

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Not often do you get food and wine pairing advice from the likes of New York Chef, and Food Network regular, Scott Conant along with two important Chablis winemakers.

Wednesday afternoon I conducted a short phone interview with Christian Moreau and Jean-Jacques Bordet for a future newspaper column. Last night the two were guests of honor for a Chablis dinner with Italian Chef Scott Conant.

The marketing folks at Sopexa, NY., were kind enough to share this video talking about Chablis and food pairing.

Magazine Wine Features

Here is an assortment of stories I’ve written mostly for Madison, a magazine published in East Central Indiana focusing on higher-income households. This is not a complete list but a few of my favorites.

Madison

OliverIndiana’s Best
This piece was written for Madison in early 2013. Largely its a subjective look at some of Indiana’s best individual bottles of wine.

ChablisChablis
This is a piece I wrote after a press trip to Chablis in October 2012. It’s a basic primer on understanding the differences in Chablis wines. The world’s greatest white wine? Perhaps!

bordeauxBordeaux
This feature ran in after a summer trip to the world’s most famous wine region Bordeaux. It is largely a wine travel piece!

montpellierTouring South of France
This piece is also about wine travel. The south of France presents a warm and charming alternative to the tourist-packed and expensive Parisian vacation.

BillDonnaWinderleaWinderlea Winery
One of the fun things about visiting Oregon or California is meeting the owners/winemakers and visiting with them a second or third time. Bill Sweat and Donna Morris have one of the great boutique wineries of Oregon’s Willamette Valley. The Pinot and Chardonnay are really world class wines.

Michigan Michigan Wine Country
In 2010 I made a three-day visit to Michigan wine country and came away impressed – particularly with the Reisling, Pinot Blanc, and Pinot Noir wines of northern Michigan near Traverse City. This Madison piece reviewed that visit.

PasoPaso Robles

Paso Robles is situated almost exactly between Los Angeles and San Francisco. The ideal hot climate with cool ocean breeze creates big rich wines at a price point well below the best of Napa Valley. It’s an incredible place for a wine vacation if you’ve done all the others or want something different

Wabash Magazine

DonLAbovetheRim2
One of my favorite pieces for a magazine was this personal essay about the people of Oregon’s Willamette Valley I wrote for Wabash Magazine. I work at Wabash College and had a college senior, Drew Casey, along with me for my visits. He took most all of the photos in this piece.

News On the Wine News Front

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It’s any writers dream/nightmare to be setting on a ton of material. I’m blessed/cursed in such a way right now.

For example, I have some great interviews with key Indiana winemakers for a piece on the ‘state of Indiana’ wine I promised to Palate Press last fall. Uhh hmm, that’s  not finished.

Schliessmann

Schliessmann

I have a short interview with filmmaker Martin Schliessmann about his upcoming documentary on Indiana wine. Here is the blog post explaining some of that. The interview is for a future newspaper column.

Last week I visited Chicago and interviewed a number of prominent Oregon winemakers on the emergence of Chardonnay as the ‘next big thing’ from the state. That one is intended for Palate Press.

And, I have updates on a few things from a couple wineries that will make good newspaper column and blog fodder.

That same day I talked with the leader of the Provence wine region about the booming sales of Rose’ in America. That is a newspaper column.

Bordet

Bordet

Today, I interviewed Chablis winemakers, and ambassadors, Christian Moreau and Jean-François Bordet. We talked about Chablis tourism and selling Chablis. That’s intended as a good follow up to my last newspaper column on the basics of Chablis.

There’s more but you get the idea. It’s also nice to tease some upcoming material here.

About Grape Sense

I launched this site two weeks ago and still working on categorizing and labeling 600-plus blog posts from the past five years.

I have several Indiana wineries to add notes on for the link at the very top of the page.

The previous blog software did not allow a way for me to present quite a few magazine pieces, with photos, I’ve written for Madison Magazine and more. I started building that new page over the lunch hour today.