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Howard W. Hewitt

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Howard W. Hewitt

Category Archives: Newspaper Column 2016

Taste Buds Determine Your Preferences

13 Saturday Feb 2016

Posted by Howard in Indiana, Newspaper Column 2016, Uncategorized

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Indiana wine, Jim Pfeiffer, Traminette, Turtle Run Winery

CORYDON, IN. – If you know what you like you should drink it. Don’t let others tell you what to like and don’t let the wine snobs shame you for drinking wines – especially sweet or fruity wines – that you like.

Grape Sense LogoWhat seems like simple wine advice is really much of the theory behind Tim Hanni’s approach to wine. Hanni is a bit of a maverick in the wine world. His theory is a bit too involved for this space but his research shows people have from 500 to 11,000 taste buds. The receptors on your taste buds determine what you will enjoy. No major wine publications, a humble wine columnist, nor a fancy restaurant’s sommelier can change that.

Hanni has no bigger fan than Indiana’s Jim Pfeiffer, owner and winemaker of Turtle Run Winery in southern Indiana. Pfeiffer has been a Hanni devotee for a long while and has been applying his theories and, to some extent his marketing, to the winemaking process. His latest approach is a non-vintage Traminette combining wine from the 2013, 2014, and 2015 vintage into one bottle.

Pfeiffer, Jim-001

Pfeiffer pouring wines at his winery

“What fascinates me about the grape is its age-ability,” Pfeiffer said. “I’ve not seen a grape ever in my life that you can put it in the bottle, age it ten years then crack open a bottle and go ‘holy cow this is so good.’ It just develops and you don’t see it turning south ever.”

Without going into the entire winemaking process he combines Indiana’s signature wine vintages in tanks, inhibit the yeast and monitor the sulfur to keep the wine from ‘going south’ or going back into fermentation.

The idea started when he tasted back through his Traminette vintages to 2000 and found the wines surprisingly good. So his newest dry Traminette concoction is 50 percent 2015 Traminette with 25 percent each of 2014 and 2013. The end result is a white wine with the richness of an aged wine and the fresh fruit appeal of the latest vintage.

Nearly half of Indiana’s 77 wineries produce a Traminette, most are on the sweeter side. But Pfeiffer has made dry versions for a number of years. “The first thing about Traminette it’s a love-hate reaction with customers. They love it or loathe it.  One of things we’ve really latched on to is how humans range in different taste bud count and how those taste bud counts correlates to likes and dislikes.

Pfeiffer explains sweet wine drinkers like lower alcohol. So he produces a sweeter Traminette which he can’t keep in stock. As you move down to people with fewer taste buds, those folks like a little bit of sweetness and love good balance. Those wine drinkers like Pfeiffer’s annual production of his standard Traminette. The sweet and lower sugar Traminettes are the most common at Indiana wineries.

But for the folks with fewer taste buds who prefer drier wines, Pfeiffer has experimented and made dry Traminette commercially viable for several years. His soon-to-be released non-vintage Traminette delivers on the promise with just 12 percent alcohol. It’s a dry white with the familiar Traminette nose and palate but it offers a richer mouthfeel and more complexity than other versions. On the nose there is a whiff of the familiar flowers but no bouquet shoved up your nose like most Traminette.

The wine is quite dry and a bit more tart than other Traminettes. But any fan of dry white wines will find it an interesting change from most Hoosier wineries take on the state’s signature wine.

It takes a mad scientist, Picasso, or a maverick to break the mold. Pfeiffer would agree the fun in winemaking is trying something different.

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Online Wine Sites Have Great Buys

07 Sunday Feb 2016

Posted by Howard in Newspaper Column 2016, Uncategorized, Wine Education/News/Updates

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2016 Burgundy Wine Trip, Last Bottle Wines, wine flash sites, WTSO

It’s a great time of year to buy wine.

If you’ve not yet purchased wine online you’re missing out on some of the best deals in the wine world. Online flash sites like Wines Till Sold Out, Last Bottle Wines, Invino, Cinderella Wine, and Underground Cellar offer a unique opportunity for the wine buyer who wants to explore, drink better wine, and maintain a modest budget.

Grape Sense LogoAs a wine journalist I probably have more wine in my home than most. A good guess is that more than half of that wine has been purchased online.

Most of these online retailers offer good to great wines at a pretty significant price cut. It’s not unusual to find wines marked down 30 to 70 percent. How do they do it? It’s pretty simple supply and demand. Sometimes wineries just need some cash flow – even the best wineries. So they’ll sell wines to sites like the ones mentioned above at a reduced rate.

Last-Bottle-Logo-300x103In the fall, and particularly close to the holidays, many wineries will start clearing previous vintages and let go of their wines to the discount sellers.

I’ve bought wine online for several years now but have never seen buys like the past two months. I’ve recently purchased $40 Oregon Pinot Noir for $16 a bottle. A few weeks back I snagged some Margaux region $50 Bordeaux for $25. Margaux is one of the premier growing sites for Bordeaux wines.

last bottleWith most online sites shipping is free with a minimum purchase. If there is a catch, it’s that one. But most of the time the minimums are 3-4 bottles.

Online wine purchases might be the best way to improve the quality of wine you’re enjoying for the best possible price.

You can find all of the sites mentioned above, and others, with a simple Google search. My personal favorites are Last Bottle Wines and WTSO. I have bought wine from all of those listed.

2016 Wine Trip – I’m taking a group to Burgundy, France this summer on my second Grape Sense wine trip – June 11-19. We’ll spend five nights in Beaune, the heart of Burgundy, and three free days in Paris. Want to know more, check it out on my blog or write me at my email below. Registration deadline is end of February. The trip is nearly sold out but 2-4 spots remain.

 

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Wine Stats Almost Always Interesting

10 Sunday Jan 2016

Posted by Howard in Newspaper Column 2016, Uncategorized, Wine Education/News/Updates

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Gallo, wine drinking, wine statistics

A New Year’s wine column usually focuses on the best of the previous year or predictions about the coming year. One scribe’s musings have minimal impact but hopefully can be educational. I’ve been there and done that with Grape Sense.

Instead of random ruminations let’s look at some facts. The Gallo company, yes Ernest and Julio’s namesake behemoth, conducts extensive research annually on wine drinkers and their behaviors. It makes for interesting reading.

Grape Sense LogoThe big wine news can be summarized as younger people are drinking more and more wine. Dry rose is still going through explosive growth. Wine drinkers are gathering recommendations from a wider number of resources than ever before.

The Gallo report said: “The top 3 factors that encourage wine drinkers to try a new wine include a friend or family recommendation (95%), bartender or sommelier recommendation (86%), and store employee recommendation (82%).”

There are age differences in how a consumer selects wine and perhaps they’re not all that surprising. Our younger friends, or millennials, are four times more likely to buy a wine based solely on the label. Baby Boomers, on the other hand, are looking for information. Boomers want to know where the wine comes from and love shelf talkers – those little notes by each wine describing the wine’s taste.

The average wine drinker sticks to what they know, mostly something I’ve argued against for years. But the average wine buyer sticks to about 3-4 brands they’ve tried and liked. The average price point for those folks is under $10 a bottle.

437479-Royalty-Free-RF-Clip-Art-Illustration-Of-A-Cartoon-Male-Wine-TasterHow do wine buyers see themselves? This was one of the more interesting categories. Those surveyed where given several choices. The top descriptor was Wine Adventurer at 35 percent, wine traditionalist at 20 percent while 25 percent described themselves as a wine novice. In smaller numbers, consumers selected brand loyalist with wine imposter and wine snob coming in at three percent each.

For years wine has become friendlier. If you like it, it’s a good wine. Don’t be intimidated by wine terms or other wine enthusiasts.

So what are winos afraid of, besides an empty bottle? Mispronouncing a wine’s name is the biggest fear at a whopping 42 percent. Another 27 percent feared talking about wine with someone else. Close behind was the fear of a waiter asking the consumer to taste before pouring and being judged by your wine choice.

Grape Sense has been focusing Rose’ for a number of years now. Young people no longer have to be sold. Millennials are almost twice more likely to buy dry pink than boomers. Rose’ tends to be seasonal though it holds up to many winter foods. Rose season starts in April, often when the new French vintage arrives, and peaks in late summer. Rose’ sales drop dramatically before Halloween.

There are more and more options today for convenience. Decent boxed wine is showing up at liquor stores and groceries. Consumers believe that boxed wine is “very convenient” while more than half of all consumers surveyed said they would have no issue drinking boxed wine as their ‘go to” wine source.

So what does all of it mean. It means that we end where we started with consumer trends and desires. Drink what you like and don’t worry about other opinions. Don’t be afraid to ask questions about wine and don’t let the so-called experts or snobs intimidate you.

The final pitch is, as always, try something new. Try a new wine, a new label, or a new country and you might get a reward bigger than expected.

Cheers to 2016

 

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