Seeing Oregon’s Sites Besides Wines

 

IMG_5249COLUMBIA RIVER GORGE – I’ve long told people it’s just wrong to come to Portland or the wonderful Willamette Valley wine region and not visit one of this country’s most beautiful spots – the Columbia River Gorge.

My wine tour group loaded up and made our way out Thursday morning and had a wonderful day topped by an incredible meal and wine at Newberg’s Recipe restaurant.

No photos do the Gorge or Multnomah Falls justice but I attached a group shot here. We also stopped at the Bonneville dam so see salmon swimming though the locks to be counted. That was quick but interesting stop.

The views from Crown point were a big highlight of the day but so was dinner at Recipe. I have tons of photos I hope to get up Monday evening while flying to Italy for a work trip – assuming Swiss Air has Wi-Fi.

The duck breast seemed to be the big hit along with onion tart or escargot appetizer. I ordered up an Oregon Chardonnay, Washington Chenin Blanc, and two bottles of Oregon Pinot for dinner. The 2006 Bergstrom Pinot was big and bold and juicy. The big winner was an Eyrie 200 Pinot – one of David Lett’s last vintages as winemaker. It was light, subtle, full flavored but silky. It was – just maybe – the best glass of Pinot I’ve ever had.

Friday we’re off to start our day at the Republic of Jam in Carlton. We’ll have a little time there then wrap up the trip with a stop at Hawk’s View Winery. I’m really looking forward to checking out the white Pinot Noir.

Four Winery Stops A Challenging Day

Our group in front of the oldest block of vineyard at Domaine Drouhin

Our group in front of the oldest block of vineyard at Domaine Drouhin

Winderlea owner Bill Sweat talking vineyard management.

Winderlea owner Bill Sweat talking vineyard management.

 

WILLAMETTE VALLEY, OR. – Wednesday was a delightfully staggering day of great wine in Oregon’s premier wine region. We had three winery stops planned and managed to squeeze in a fourth.

As a guy who often answers questions about wine and wine travel, I’d quickly add that I’d never recommend more than three. It’s a bit of a long story not worth repeating here but was a wonderful day of tasting some of the best the Willamette Valley has to offer.

Our group started its morning in the vineyards of the iconic Domaine Drouhin winery. We did a brief walking tour of the winery and ended with a great side by side tasting of Oregon Pinot and French Burgundy. It’s an experience in winelover should indulge for a surprisingly reasonable $30.

My travel group clearly had two big winners. They loved the usual top bottling of Laurene. It’s long been the signature bottle from Drouhin’s Oregon, SRP $75. But the biggest hit of the stop may have been a Drouhin Burgundy that’s nearly impossible to find in the U.S. The 2010 Savigny-les-Beaune Clos de Godeaux was elegant wine – floral, spice, and a subtle intensity. I have never consumed much Burgundy because of the price points, but for $48 this French bottle rocked.

Drouhin is far more corporate than any other Willamette stop on our trip. But they hold such an important spot in Oregon’s wine history it’s a must for any visitor.

It was then on to Winderlea for an incredible lunch and tasting with Bill Sweat and Donna Morris. Bill was super talking about the couple’s short history with the winery and the vineyard’s long history of producing great fruit. Members of the tour group asked some great questions about growing grapes and the challenges faced each season.

We then traveled into the Chehalem Mountain sub AVA to Vidon, a small production – mostly private – winery with great wines.

Owner Don Hagge was out of town and that was a huge disappointment. With only one person in the tasting room it was our least satisfying stop of the trip. Fortunately, the wine did not disappoint. Don’s 2010 3 Clone Pinot was a near unanimous picks as one of the best wines of the week. Several bottles will be flying out of town when this group leaves.

The fourth, and originally unplanned, visit was to Saffron Fields which I discovered Sunday. The hospitality of Daniel Santos was genuinely appreciated for putting a time frame and tasting together with less than 24 hours notice.

The group loved the wines made for Saffron by Jay McDonald and Tony Rynders. Saffron Fields is the kind of place you may never find without some inside tips. Rynders name won’t mean much to most readers but he is the winemaker who put high-end producer Domaine Serene on the map!

Additionally, Saffron has a funky and wonderful tasting room experience with an open air concept and modernistic art. We left after completing four wine club membership forms = I’m sure Daniel was happy. We were.

Today is a really must-do day without wine. If you come to Portland and Willamette for the wine you just must take a day to visit the Columbia River Gorge and Mt. Hood. That’s our plan and should be great fun. None of my 8 wine travelers have visited the beautiful Gorge before. I compare it to seeing the Grand Canyon for the first time. It will be fun to see their reactions.

Our group gathers around to hear Santos talk about Saffron Fields.

Our group gathers around to hear Santos talk about Saffron Fields.

Wine Tour Starts With Awesome Pours

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My first Grape Sense wine tourism group at Lange Winery in Oregon's Willamette Valley

My first Grape Sense wine tourism group at Lange Winery in Oregon’s Willamette Valley

DUNDEE HILLS, Oregon – There is a strong sense of responsibility bringing guests, paying you, to visit select great wineries. And I’ll have to admit I had some nerves yesterday before my four couples from Indianapolis, Massachusetts, and Iowa arrived.

Members of our group tasting Jesse Lange's three soil series Pinots.
Members of our group tasting Jesse Lange’s three soil series Pinots.

 But the wow factor today and the great start in the Willamette Valley could not have been any better. Literally months of planning went into crafting a four-day, five night wine trip that offered the familiar and the new, the attainable and the not-so-attainable, and some big wow factor. We got all of that in two wine stops on day one.

We spent the bulk of our day at Lange Estate Winery. We walked the vineyards and spent extensive time with Jesse Lange’s assistant winemaker Neil Larson in the winery. Neil walked everyone through the winemaking process and answered some really good questions from the tour participants. WE tasted the unique Lange oaked Pinot Gris, the Chardonnay and the full lineup of Pinot Noir.

Jesse Lange had to be out of town today so he had the delightful Monique pour his 2012 soil series of three different Pinots from three different soil types. The group seemed to really enjoy evaluating the different wines and quizzing each other why they liked one more than the other. It was one of the highlights of the day for me.

The other two highlights was an awesome lunch of meats, nuts, cheese, salad, and sandwiches from Red Hills Market. The topper was a clear sky and the appearance of MT. Hood from the Lange patio. It was the first time the mountain was visible in my four different Lange visits.

The group bought club memberships, individual bottles, cases, and headed off a happy group of wine drinkers.

Our other stop today was at the much newer Alexana Winery. The incredible vineyard property and ultra modern tasting room and winery made for a great tour. Sales Manager Mark Bosko led a portion of our tour but winemaker Bryan Weil walked us through the winemaking and the outdoor tasting. The wines were really stunning. It was definitely, for my palate, wines meant to be taken home and put away for awhile. From the ultra dry Reisling to the silky Pinot Noir we were all impressed.

We had several comparative choices to make and the big winner was a three lot 100 percent Pommard clone Pinot that blew us all away. The wine is a collaboration between Weil and consultant winemaker Lynn Penner-Ash. The bottle is not cheap at $75 but definitely a great representation of Oregon Pinot at the price point.

Wednesday is our really big wine day with four stops.

Blogger Note: I’m taking lots of photos but will not get most up until after the trip. It’s just too difficult on a travel laptop and the time constraints of being the tour leader. I have some great stuff and try to get a few up each day. Many have simply been iPhone shots.

Interesting Chats with Liz and Jesse

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Elizabeth Chambers

Elizabeth Chambers

Chatting with winemakers and winery owners is almost always interesting. I know I’m lucky as a wino because most people just don’t get the chance to do that.

The second day in the Willamette Valley was highlighted by a delightful visit with Elizabeth Chambers – and visiting her new namesake winery – and talking with an old acquaintance, Jesse Lange.

The Chambers’ name is big in Oregon, broadcasting/construction and more, but also big in wine. Elizabeth’s mother owned a winery since the late 70s. Elizabeth Chambers and winemaker Michael Stevenson wanted a winery that was all about great wines driven by the vineyard and not by ego or someone else’s expectations.

Elizabeth owned McMinnville’s old city power plant and realized it could make a really cool winery/tasting room. Exposed brick and an outdoor courtyard makes the space perfect for gatherings and special events. The wine lineup includes a Pinot Gris and four vineyard-designate Pinot Noirs. Stevenson’s wines are beautiful with wonderful aromas, perfect balance and ready to drink now or to cellar.

Chambers had previously owned Panther Creek wines with Stevenson as the winemaker. Chambers sold that interest and the two launched Elizabeth Chambers Cellar. She describes the wines as light – or feminine – with great balance.

Chamber has no desire to be a huge producer but is intent on making the best Pinot possible. There is little question she’s off to a great start.

I have interviews and photos with the two of them which will surface as a full story in one of my wine writing outlets in the near future.

Jesse Lange

Jesse Lange

Lange Estate Winery has been one of my favorites since my first visit about seven years ago. I chatted with Jesse Lange then, a couple of times since and today. Jesse can range from outspoken to cautious but he seemed energized today. He has new projects he’s deeply committed to at the iconic winery.

He has a new small-production series based on soils – three wines from three different soil types. The estate has expanded over the last decade and he has new vineyards coming into production. The combination continues to fuel an enthusiasm to make wine a little better every year than the previous vintage.

Lange has been around since the late 1980s but is respected across the valley as one of the great, and most consistent, craftsmen of Pinot Noir in the valley.  The wines are widely available (including Indiana) and are great values compared to the competition. Lange’s Willamette Valley Pinot (under $30) is about the best bottle at the price point. The higher-end wines are perfect for aging and well worth the investment.

Tomorrow (Tuesday) I’ll taste the ‘soil’ Pinot series and that’s exciting. I also did a recorded interview which will also be used in future posts or other writing outlets.

My wine tourism group arrived in Portland today. We’re getting together tonight then headed to the Valley tomorrow morning. Grape Sense’s first ever wine tour is about to get underway!

Exploring Oregon Wine Near Carlton

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A gorgeous afternoon view of Saffron Fields Vineyards

A gorgeous afternoon view of Saffron Fields Vineyards

Saffron Fields' very cool tasting room.

Saffron Fields’ very cool tasting room.

CARLTON, Or. – Scouting as a wine writer can be a lot of fun. There is just something about these winding roads, hills, and hillside vineyards that makes visiting wine country really special.

And I’ve written before that it’s the people in the wineries and in the communities which make visiting a spot like the Willamette Valley really worthwhile.

After leaving Indiana very early and six hours of flight, I drove out into the Valley. I set about visiting two wineries on my list and a couple more in Carlton where I spent Sunday night.

Many of these wines will be hard to find. I guess the point of the post is to note the fun of exploring wine country and the delightful surprises around every crooked corner of the road.

Lenne’ Vineyard, up a gravel road with spectacular views, was my first stop. The brand new tasting room was rather barren but the young lady pouring the wine was a real pro. Owner Steve Lutz wasn’t available but his lineup of one Rose and four Pinot Noir wines were worthy of the surrounding and stunning vineyard views.

The Rose’ was lighter in style with big acidity but a nice bottle for the $18 price point. I found three of the four Pinots to be really outstanding wines. His Le Nez had an understated beauty, soft on the palate with a soft finish that most any wine lover would enjoy. There aren’t many $30 bottles in the valley any better.

His two estate Pinots at $45 and $55 were fabulous wines. They were light in style but with more nuance and secondary flavors. They were simply great Pinot Noirs. The top bottle had been open a day and just didn’t hold up well. Lenne’ is a small production winery but it’s making great wine. It’s a place to visit when you come to Oregon.

Saffron Fields' very cool tasting room.

Saffron Fields’ very cool tasting room.

The highlight of the day was a winery just down that gravel road from Lenne’ – Saffron Fields. Each of the four wines poured in the open-air, ultra-modern tasting room was great.

Winemaker Tony Rynders does a beautiful Chardonnay with 50 percent oak and stainless steel. It’s rich and very aromatic with hints of peach and kiwi. A really beautiful wine for $40. Rynders has a personal label called Tendril which really presented dark cherry flavors, spices, and nice dark raspberry goodness.

The Tendril and the 2011 Saffron Fields Vineyard Pinot were the two big winners. Both are small production wines and both sell for $48. I thought they both were as good as you’ll find in Oregon.

I had long heard of Kramer Vineyards and found its small Carlton tasting room on a side street. The best taste was the sparkling Rose’ of Pinot Noir. For a mere $24, the sparkler surpassed many I’ve tasted at a much higher price point. The Chardonnay and Pinot Noir were solid but not spectacular. I met winemaker Kimberly Kramer who discussed her use of oak in wines and how she uses oak of varying ages to add complexity.

Finally, I made a stop in the De Ponte  tasting room. I had visited the winery a few years ago. I loved almost everything on the tasting list. The fun started with a 2012 Melon de Bourgogne which is known as a lovely white wine grape from France’s Muscadet region – but no, it’s not that grape. I has tropical fruit and a bit of pineapple. The wine was rich and refreshing, really something different for $25.

I liked all three 2011 Pinots poured by assistant winemaker Suzanne Oliver in the tasting room. Each had the characteristic Oregon earthiness that makes these wines special. All three wines were priced at $44.

Monday is a little bit of scouting and a trip in to McMinnville before heading to Portland to welcome my eight wine tourists to the Willamette Valley.

In Oregon to Lead First Wine Tour

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Our lodging - Black Walnut Inn

Our lodging – Black Walnut Inn

Oregon weather is enough to take your breath away with cool 70s and that majestic view of Mount Hood flying into Portland.

But I’m on the West Coast to host my first Grape Sense wine trip. Four couples will join me Monday evening for five nights and four days of Willamette Valley wine, food, and beauty.

I plan to post each day but thought I’d get something up about the itinerary. I flew out Sunday morning to take the afternoon and Monday to finalize a few details and scout wineries, restaurants, and Inns for future Grape Sense travel. –

Later today (Sunday) I hope to get to Lenne’ and Saffron Fields. I’ll spend the night in Carlton before heading over to McMinnville and an afternoon appointment with the relatively new Elizabeth Chambers winemaker.

Monday night the group arrives in downtown Portland. We’ll spend the night there after a late-evening welcoming reception – or a couple glass of Pinot!

Tuesday morning we head to the valley for four days. Our adventure begins at old friends Lange Estate Winery. We’ll do a tour and private tasting and have lunch catered by Red Hills Market – all enjoyed with stunning views of the Willamette Valley.

Our second stop of the day will be the much-heralded Alexana Winery. I’ll be sharing details and thoughts about the wine and wine experience from each stop in my evening post. We’re staying at one of the valley’s very best Inn’s – the Black Walnut. We’ll cap our evening off with a fabulous meal at the ‘winemaker’s restauriant’ – Nick’s Italian Café in McMinnville.

The vineyards and view at in Willamette's Dundee HIlls

The vineyards and view at in Willamette’s Dundee HIlls

Wednesday is our big wine day. We begin at Domaine Drouhin with an exciting Drouhin vs. Drouhin experience. In the private tasting room, we’ll sampled Domaine Drouhin side-by-side with Drouhin’s storied French Burgundy.

Wednesday lunch will be hosted by friends Bill and Donna at Winderlea Winery in the Dundee Hills. This small producer, not widely available in the Midwest, is the real definition of a boutique winery. Vidon Vineyards will be our afternoon stop. The group will taste single-clone Pinot Noir and Don Hagge’s great 3 Clone blend. We’ll do steaks, burgers, and maybe even beers Wednesday night in Carlton.

The weather forecast for the week is low 70s so we’re hoping the forecast holds and the rain stays away. There is a chance for showers Thursday but that day is scheduled for our trip to the Columbia River Gorge. I often preach to anyone who will listen that you just CAN NOT go to Portland and not visit the Gorge. We’ll have lunch in Hood River and make the trip back out to the valley.

A real highlight will be Thursday night’s dinner at the artisan restaurant Recipe. It features all the latest produce and products from Oregon’s full bounty. Any Willamette best restaurant list is going to have Recipe at or near the top.

Friday is the last day of our trip and we begin by visiting the wonderful ladies at Republic of Jam. We’ll take a little free time to explore Carlton then head to Hawk’s View Winery where I’m anxious to taste their white Pin

We then return to Portland for the night and the end of our trip. I’ll be updating Facebook and Twitter throughout each day. Follow our Pinot adventure and maybe you’ll get the taste for wine travel!

 

Summertime is Rosé Wine Time

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If you could be a super hero, mythical character or fictional leader, who would you choose?

Superman? A Mutant Ninja Turtle? Or maybe Jean ValJean?

Grape Sense LogoI’d be the Pied Piper! No, not the Middle Ages Pied Piper of Germany, who allegedly led children away from villages. Nor would I be the Pied Pier of 16th Century Germany who might have led rats from infested Dorfs! (small villages)

I’d be the Pied Piper of Provence, France, and lead you to dry, French Rosé wine.

One of the many great things about dry Rosé is that it can be made from different grapes and it’s produced all around the world. You can enjoy Cabernet, Malbec, Chambourcin, and Sangiovese Rosé.

RoseImageOregon’s Rosé of Pinot Noir and Provence Rosé tops them all for my palate. Every summer, for the past several years, I’ve written about Southern France’s famous salmon-pink wine. It excites me every May and delights me in June and July.

And it’s good news to report how other U.S. wine drinkers are in agreement. Provence Rosé wine sales continue to explode. French Provence Rosé exports went up an astounding 40 percent last year in volume and value. Astounding just too big a word or too much hyperbole for you? Measure the word’s use against the 2012 statistical report from the Provence Wine Council which reported a 41 percent increase two years ago and 62 percent jump in 2011.
“Exports of Provence Rosé to the United States show no signs of slowing down, and neither does consumer demand for rosé from Provence, the gold standard,” said Julie Peterson, in press materials, of the CIVP/Provence Wine Council’s U.S. trade office. “With these increased volumes flowing into the country, American consumers are also finding a wider variety of flavor profiles from producers across Provence.”

Besides the delightful mineralty, fruit, and freshness of dry Provence Rosé, Rosé is great for the price. Really good bottles can be found at $10-$20. As a matter of fact, Nielsen Research reports the average price per bottle is just $16.38.

Wine Travel
One of the best ways to learn more about wine and have a great vacation is travel to the great wine regions of the world. It’s been a real blessing to visit Napa/Sonoma, Italy’s Tuscany, Oregon’s Willamette Valley, Bordeaux, Chablis, and the Languedoc in France, along with California’s Central Coast in recent years.

I’m plugging two trips here so readers can follow along. I’ll be leading my first private Grape Sense wine tour June 9-13 in Oregon’s Willamette Valley. After a very short weekend, I’ll be in Italy for two weeks June 17-27. The Italy trip is for my work but I’ll be eating and drinking Italian and I’m sure to publish a few blog posts.

Follow both trips right here.

Lots of Ways to Chill Summer Wine

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A bag of ice or the fridge can keep your wines chilled for any summer outing as easy as any geeky wine device. But if you want something practical and even stylish for summer picnics there are lots of ways to chill your favorite beverage.

Grape Sense LogoWine education should always include some discussion on the proper serving temperature for red and white wine. A general rule of thumb is most people serve white too cold and red too warm. If you put your lighter bodied red wines in the fridge for 10-15 minutes, just to drop them to the upper 60-degree range, you’ll be surprised how bright the fruit will taste.

The proper chilling temperature for white wine is a bit trickier. I recommend putting the bottle in the fridge for 30-45 minutes. You’ll have to experiment. But a word of warning comes with the kitchen appliance solution. Over-chilled wines will not have the same mouth feel or fruitiness as when you get the temperature just right. You want reds in the high 60s, while near 60 is a good temperature for your whites.

But if you’re hosting guests on the patio, picnic table, or porch those wines will warm up in a hurry. A bucket of ice will do the trick but there are some inexpensive solutions which are stylish and fun.

The first of the many outdoor wine chillers is simply the wine bag. These are often give-aways for wineries, wine-related promotions and such. It’s a simple heavy plastic bag big enough for a wine bottle, water and ice. The wine bags are inexpensive, usually about $10. I’ve been given several through the years and they are eye catching on the outdoor table. Perhaps it’s been my bad luck, but the 4 or 5 I’ve tried have all leaked and they’re messy.

There are lots of wine chilling options!

There are lots of wine chilling options!

The next step up in the bag approach is “Chill It Bags” in colorful combinations and walls made of a safe chemical freezing component. You just throw them in the freezer and they’ll keep your wine in great shape. The downside to these bags is when they freeze you must be careful in opening them back up for your bottle of wine. If you force a bottle into a frozen bag you will probably damage the bag. These bags come in multiple sizes and colors and work well. They are also very affordable at less than $10 up to he mid teens.

The insertable chill devices have been big the past couple of years. The insert device is often marketed as wine chiller, winesickle, and more. The devices have a long post which you freeze then insert into the wine. Most have a pour top or a pour/aerator top for a non-messy chilling and glass of wine. The insertable chill devices are usually under $20.

The last chiller is by far the most expensive but guarantees no mess. The Angle33 cement chiller does a great job with style. Yes, it is made of poured cement and weighs about seven pounds. You put the cement chiller in the fridge for 45 minutes, stick the bottle in the cool concrete and your wine will stay nicely chilled for a long while – no water or ice! The downside to the cement chiller is price at $64.99.

So no matter whether you use one of these nifty devices or a bucket and ice, get outside and enjoy those summer white and dry rose’ wines!

What We Drinking With Dinner?

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A wine writer’s most-frequently asked question is ‘What’s for dinner?’

More specifically, the question would be what’s to drink with dinner?

Grape Sense LogoThe long-time wine snobbery of many has made the magic of food and wine pairing far more difficult than it needs to be. You can stick with the oldest rule of white with fish or chicken and red with red meat. Or, as many a comic puts it – it you eat it, drink white wine. If it could eat you, drink red!

Another rule is if you like wine A with protein B, forget all of the rules and do what you like.

With that said, we can be more specific. Most people think of summer’s lighter foods rightly but we also drag out the charcoal in summer and put a serious burn on some beast! One of the biggest delights of enjoying wine is getting it just right with the food.

Let’s look at the staples of summer dining:

Think BIG - Cabernet - for charred steak!

Think BIG – Cabernet – for charred steak!

Burgers – Everyone enjoys beer with a burger, right? Next time try a French Beaujolais Grand Cru. The Cru wines are priced in the mid-teens, light in body, and are incredible wines for the price. Another choice with a bit more body would be Spanish Tempranillo wines or maybe even a soft Merlot. If you want to stay closer to home with your wine pic choose an Indiana Chambourcin red.

BBQ – If you’re rubbing or lathering up some beef or pork think of that aforementioned Merlot, or if you like bigger wine a Syrah or Zinfandel. Go international and pair grilled BBQ with French Rhone wines, Malbec from Argentina, or even an Italian Super Tuscan (that’s a blend of Cabernet and the native Sangiovese).

Steak – The granddaddy of grilling, rib eye, strip or porterhouse, deserves nothing but the granddaddy of red wine – Cabernet Sauvignon. If Cabernet is too big for your palate then turn to Argentinian Malbec, Chile’s Carmenere’, Saint Emilion Bordeaux, or I enjoy a well-made Syrah.

Pinot Noir or a nice crisp/light Sauv Blanc for salmon.

Pinot Noir or a nice crisp/light Sauv Blanc for salmon.

White Fish – Lighter fish is where preparation means everything. Most grilled white fish will pair well with Sauvignon Blanc. But be adventurous and try a Midwestern Pinot Blanc or Vidal. The emerging stainless steel chardonnays are perfect for white fish. Be really crazy and try an Albarino from Spain or Portugal. Be the talk of the cookout and pop open a bottle of Italian Vermentino. All of these whites are easy to find in a good wine shop for under $20.

Salads – Summer salads can be delightful with floral wines. Try a domestic or French Viognier with your salad. If there is protein (chicken or shrimp) in your summer salad, seek out the Albarino mentioned above. A good dry Rose’ gives that salad lunch a real continental feel. The sales of Rose’ continue to explode each summer. Buy a French Provence Rose or a domestic Rose’ of Pinot Noir and you’ll see why they’re flying off shelves everywhere. The Sauv Blanc is always a solid fall-back position.

One of the key strategies in wine and food pairing is to not forget the sauces, rubs, and side dishes. Think of each entire dish when selecting your wine and you’ll have many enjoyable summer moments.

Rail Town’s Italian Spot Off Track

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UPDATE: I got a very nice and apologetic note from Napoli Villa’s manager yesterday. He acknowledged several of the problems I noted in this review. He also assured me the wine mistake was a probably ‘lack of knowledge’ which I assumed. He offered a gift card, which I politely declined. I thanked him for his prompt attention and assured him I’d return to the restaurant. It was exactly the kind of response good restaurant owners should give when something goes awry!

BEECH GROVE, Indy – There is nothing more disappointing and frustrating than an old favorite restaurant losing its way.

Great ravioli, watered-down sauce.

Great ravioli, watered-down sauce.

Napoli Villa in Beech Grove, Indianapolis’ southside, has been a bedrock of traditional Italian cooking since the 1960s. I’ve gone there for the simple, sweet red sauce, crispy calamari, savory soups, and homemade pasta for several years.

During a Friday May 9 visit, the number of errors was really hard to overlook. I can forgive an untrained waitress or undercooked/overcooked food, thin sauce, or a lack of wine knowledge. But when you put all of that together, and a few other mistakes, the dinner experience was far below this charming little spot’s normal standards.

From the top, our pleasant young waitress was slow getting our calamari to the table but then delivered the soup before we had barely touched the appetizer. Okay, no big deal. Then while tasting the admittedly delicious-as-always appetizer and soups, my dinner companion and I realized we didn’t have the bread we always enjoy and promised on the menu. We had to ask. The nice young lady delivered the yummy homemade bread and we dig in. The bread turned out to be substantially underbaked – to the point you could see doughy chuncks on a few of the pieces.

Through the first half of our meal the young lady brought dishes on three occasions without clearing the dirty dishes away.

Reliable Ruffino, but not the Classico.

Reliable Ruffino, but not the Classico.

Our entree’s had issues. My friend usually has a veal/proscuitto dish while I enjoy Napoli Villa’s ravioli. My ravioli was perfectly cooked with tasty sausage inside. But the signature red sauce was watered down – literally tasted like it was thinned with water. The veal dish was disappointing with a poor quality cut of veal while the proscuitto was incredibly tough.

The coup de grace  actually happened early on. The wine list had a limited selection of Italian wines but a couple of different Chianti wines. I selected the widely-available Ruffino Chianti Classico. The waitress delivered the wine and it appeared to be a Chianti. Not the end of the world but not what I ordered. And as any wine enthusiast knows there is a price difference. The young waitress had no idea what I was talking about so I just accepted the wine.

But to add insult to injury, an older woman – part of the family which owns the restaurant, I believe – came and explained they don’t put “Classico” on the label anymore. I challenged that based on DOC-DOCG laws just to be difficult and she flew right by the facts and assured me it was a Classico. No rooster, no Classico, but I just took the wine because it was only $4 difference. (Which we deducted from the tip.)

I blurred face - eating at bar.

I blurred face – eating at bar.

The problems were widespread. First, I didn’t blame the young waitress for her errors – though some common sense appeared missing – I blame management for poorly training the wait staff. The young lady also appeared to have tables at each end of the sizable dining room. During our dinner a kitchen worker wandered behind the busy bar in our dining area and consumed a bowl of food.

We’ve had so many positive experiences at the Beech Grove icon we will go back. The restaurant was quite busy but they won’t be if these errors continue to occur. I’ve never been this disappointed with a favorite spot. The railroad town’s Italians have gone off track.