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Howard W. Hewitt

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Howard W. Hewitt

Tag Archives: Lenne’ Vineyards

Vineyards reflect climate change reality

09 Saturday Mar 2019

Posted by Howard in Oregon, Uncategorized

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@allorovineyards, Carl Giavanti, David Bellows, Lenne' Vineyards, Oregon wine, Steve Lutz, Tom Fitzpatrick, Vidon Vineyards., Wayne Bailey, Youngberg Hill Vineyards

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Steve Lutz in his Lenne tasting room last October

If you don’t believe in climate change, ask a farmer. Few farmers see the more immediate impact of warming temperatures than winemakers and vineyard managers across the country.

In normally cool-climate Oregon, the vineyards are warming. But just like the different terriors across the 150-mile long valley, the impact varies from vineyard to vineyard. But winemakers seem to agree something is happening.

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Fitzpatrick

“I don’t think it necessarily meaning warming for everyone at every time of the year,” said Alloro Vineyards winemaker Tom Fitzpatrick. “I think what we’re seeing is wide swings in the temperatures and weather during the ripening period, which is really an important period of time.

“So the last couple of years (2016-2017) were fairly warm and fairly early harvest in September. Then in 2018 things were a little bit more typical at harvest. We but had a really dry and really warm summer. We were lucky to get these really cool temperatures, 60s and 70s, through early September for harvesting.

The state’s legislature ordered a climate assessment that concluded with a 160-page document. The report says that even if emissions are reduced, average temperatures will rise 3 to 7 degrees by 2050. That number may or may not seem significant but the state’s leading crop, delicate and thin-skinned Pinot Noir grapes, does not do well in intense heat.

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Bailey

“I typically talk about global change instead of global warming,” said Youngberg Hill Winery and Inn owner and winemaker Wayne Bailey. “I think what we’re seeing is a lot more extremes. There is extreme rain in the Midwest, extremes in terms of cold and warm and extremes in terms of hurricanes. It’s all over.

“More specifically to growing, over the last 4-5 years we’ve had consistent warmer temperatures. But I’ve been in agriculture all my life and know weather patterns to in 20-year cycles. I’m here to say in 5-6 years we’re still going to have warmer and cool years. I’m going to suggest there is going to be more extremes instead of less extreme weather events because of global warming.”

Steve Lutz, owner/winemaker at Lenne Estate, agreed its all about the timing of the state’s hotter spells. “We’ve been a really fortunate,” he said. “This year we had a huge cooldown at the end of August and beginning of September.  We had 10 days of no sugar movement in the vineyard at all. My take is we have to be very careful how much fruit we drop (which allows remaining fruit to ripen better).”

Lutz’s point is cutting grapes aggressively, followed by a warmer fall harvest season, could substantially reduce a winery’s ability to reach normal production levels. More heat means more sugar in the grapes which results in wines with a higher alcohol content while the industry is largely moving to lower alcohol wines.

One logical step might be the increased planting of varietals other than Pinot Noir. Tempranillo, gamay, syrah, and even some cabernet has been planted in recent years.

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Bellows

“Don (Hagge) is way ahead of the curve as usual and we’re already making estate tempranillo in the Chehalem Mountains AVA,” said Vidon winemaker David Bellows. Hagge owns the boutigue Vidon winery. “Other people are only going to plan more similar grapes. Tempranillo is a good illustration of how to cope because I can’t think of a more hot plains varietal. It’s ripened here three years in a row and ripened just fine this year.”

All of the winemaker agreed there will be years of bigger wines – Pinot or different varieties. Bellows said the 2018 crop went through higher temperatures than the 2017. “So the 2018 had more sugar than we would want so we worked on more extraction, move body to balance off the alcohol. Those are the kind of things you have to do. We’re going to make a bigger darker wine than last year. We hope more extraction will balance the alcohol.”

So will there be years where Oregon Pinot is closer to the mouth feel of Pinots from California? “There will be years,” Bailey agreed that is possible. “In 2012 and 2014 the wines were bigger, more robust, more red fruit. But consistently I think not for the foreseeable future. We’re not growing on the valley floor where it’s hottest.”

Fitzpatrick  takes a similar view. “To me a great Pinot is a balance between a warm year and much cooler year, concentration density and roundness, very cool delivers aromatic complexity and more expression. To me a great vintage is one where weather conditions are such you get both of those.”

All four winemakers agreed they’ve spent a career watching the weather. With temperatures rising, watching the thermometer is fine but more adjustments in  winemaking will be necessary as well.

EDITOR’S NOTE: This feature store first appeared in Madison Magazine – a niche publication of the Anderson Herald Bulletin. Contact these wineries through the links embedded to buy their wines.

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Exploring Oregon Wine Near Carlton

09 Monday Jun 2014

Posted by Howard in Oregon

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DuPont Vineyards, Lenne' Vineyards, Saffron Fields, Willamette Valley

 

A gorgeous afternoon view of Saffron Fields Vineyards

A gorgeous afternoon view of Saffron Fields Vineyards

Saffron Fields' very cool tasting room.

Saffron Fields’ very cool tasting room.

CARLTON, Or. – Scouting as a wine writer can be a lot of fun. There is just something about these winding roads, hills, and hillside vineyards that makes visiting wine country really special.

And I’ve written before that it’s the people in the wineries and in the communities which make visiting a spot like the Willamette Valley really worthwhile.

After leaving Indiana very early and six hours of flight, I drove out into the Valley. I set about visiting two wineries on my list and a couple more in Carlton where I spent Sunday night.

Many of these wines will be hard to find. I guess the point of the post is to note the fun of exploring wine country and the delightful surprises around every crooked corner of the road.

Lenne’ Vineyard, up a gravel road with spectacular views, was my first stop. The brand new tasting room was rather barren but the young lady pouring the wine was a real pro. Owner Steve Lutz wasn’t available but his lineup of one Rose and four Pinot Noir wines were worthy of the surrounding and stunning vineyard views.

The Rose’ was lighter in style with big acidity but a nice bottle for the $18 price point. I found three of the four Pinots to be really outstanding wines. His Le Nez had an understated beauty, soft on the palate with a soft finish that most any wine lover would enjoy. There aren’t many $30 bottles in the valley any better.

His two estate Pinots at $45 and $55 were fabulous wines. They were light in style but with more nuance and secondary flavors. They were simply great Pinot Noirs. The top bottle had been open a day and just didn’t hold up well. Lenne’ is a small production winery but it’s making great wine. It’s a place to visit when you come to Oregon.

Saffron Fields' very cool tasting room.

Saffron Fields’ very cool tasting room.

The highlight of the day was a winery just down that gravel road from Lenne’ – Saffron Fields. Each of the four wines poured in the open-air, ultra-modern tasting room was great.

Winemaker Tony Rynders does a beautiful Chardonnay with 50 percent oak and stainless steel. It’s rich and very aromatic with hints of peach and kiwi. A really beautiful wine for $40. Rynders has a personal label called Tendril which really presented dark cherry flavors, spices, and nice dark raspberry goodness.

The Tendril and the 2011 Saffron Fields Vineyard Pinot were the two big winners. Both are small production wines and both sell for $48. I thought they both were as good as you’ll find in Oregon.

I had long heard of Kramer Vineyards and found its small Carlton tasting room on a side street. The best taste was the sparkling Rose’ of Pinot Noir. For a mere $24, the sparkler surpassed many I’ve tasted at a much higher price point. The Chardonnay and Pinot Noir were solid but not spectacular. I met winemaker Kimberly Kramer who discussed her use of oak in wines and how she uses oak of varying ages to add complexity.

Finally, I made a stop in the De Ponte  tasting room. I had visited the winery a few years ago. I loved almost everything on the tasting list. The fun started with a 2012 Melon de Bourgogne which is known as a lovely white wine grape from France’s Muscadet region – but no, it’s not that grape. I has tropical fruit and a bit of pineapple. The wine was rich and refreshing, really something different for $25.

I liked all three 2011 Pinots poured by assistant winemaker Suzanne Oliver in the tasting room. Each had the characteristic Oregon earthiness that makes these wines special. All three wines were priced at $44.

Monday is a little bit of scouting and a trip in to McMinnville before heading to Portland to welcome my eight wine tourists to the Willamette Valley.

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