Bottles from NZ, Spain Quite Tasty

25 Sunday Jan 2015

Posted by in Australia/New Zealand, Spain

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Catch up time again on reviews and I’ve got several bottles I’ve really enjoyed, all at reasonable price points too.

Anyone entering the kitchen must think ‘what a wino’ but if they notice the bottles are empty. I keep the empties of those wines I haven’t yet reviewed – deemed worthy. These two, and several more to come, are quite worthy!

stoneleigh-latitude-chardonnay-marlborough-new-zealand-10625105Stoneleigh Latitude 2013 Chardonnay – Let’s face it when you think New Zealand most people don’t think Chardonnay – sauvignon blanc or pinot noir sure, Chard – not so much.

This wine comes from New Zealand’s “Golden Mile” in Marlborough – the premier region for wine grapes. I looked at this sample a couple of times when the box arrived certain I had never had a New Zealand Chard. I still don’t remember one but the Stoneleigh could change that.

Since I’ve written over the past several years I’m not a big Chard fan, I just may have to go back and find my digital eraser. I’m discovering more Chardonnay I really enjoy and this was one joins that group.

The wine has nice soft fruit – peach perhaps – on the palate with a hint of the wood but most importantly to me was the wonderful balance. I wasn’t clobbered by the fruit or the wood and it was still a rich mouthful of wine. I’d drink this wine with chicken or pork dishes. The alcohol was a bit of a surprise at 14 percent, but I wouldn’t have guessed that without looking.

Stoneleigh Latitude 2013 Chardonnay, avg. $17 retail, Trade Sample, Highly Recommended.

Altos de Tamaron 2013 – If any country in the world makes wine as consistently good for $11 as Spain, I’m still searching.

tamaronSince much of my focus, at least in the newspaper column, is on value wine and getting folks out of the supermarket wine aisle this is a huge winner. For years I’ve recommended Malbec and Tempranillo wines. Nowadays I seem to find more consistency from Spain at the bottom of the price chart than Argentina.

I thought this wine was simply darn tasty for the $11. We can go on with the dark rich flavor and deep purple color all you want but its pleasing and smooth red wine. The finish was longer than expected and I’d drink it – and buy it – in a minute.

The wine has been a pretty consistent medal winner in previous vintages. It never seems to win the gold but consistently takes silver or bronze. In the big international tests, that’s pretty consistent.

I’d drink this wine with grilled chicken, pork, lamb, and I actually had it with a bit of a quick meatloaf. This wine is rewarding enough to even put on your evening sipper list for a weeknight.

I’d highly recommend the wine for beginners or regular wine drinkers.

Altos de Tamaron 2012, SRP $11, Trade Sample, Highly Recommended.

Wine You Won’t Find, Would Love

21 Wednesday Jan 2015

Posted by in France

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Ponsot Cave

John Baptiste barrel tasting his whites.

The headline above is enough to label me or anyone who would write it a bit of a wine snob. But that’s not really the point of the post. I was recently taken with a very nice glass of White Burgundy that I found surprisingly wonderful for a mere $25.99.

First, the wine: Jean Baptiste Ponsot Rully 2012 would be an entry level White Burgundy (Chardonnay) from an extremely small producer in France’s famous Burgundy region.

I bought the bottle along with two Burgundy reds (Pinot Noir) from a New York wine shop. But more on the back story in a second.

John Baptiste in his vineyard.

John Baptiste in his vineyard.

The white wine was stellar. From the first whiff at the rim of the glass I loved the hint of mineral and flowers. There certainly was a bit of wood going on as well. The wine offered soft fruit like a peach but what got me was the creamy texture but still a delivery of well-balanced acid on the finish.

The back story is compelling. John-Baptiste Ponsot is just 35 years old but has worked the vineyards since he was 20. Rully is a small village south of Cote d’Or – the heart of Burgundy. The young winemaker watches over his 8.5 hectare (or 21 acre) vineyard and produces wines that sell out as quick as he can make them.

The back story is a friend of a friend is an importer of small production Burgundy wines. His clients are little guys in the shadows of the bigger names of one of France’s most famous wine regions. But the wines are available retail – restaurant or shop – only in New York. The importer directed me to a New York shop that ships to Indiana. I bought the bottle described here along with the two reds. I’m really anxious to try the Pinots.

I tell the story and sing the wine’s virtues to re-iterate the point that as you search the shelves of your favorite wine shop or visit a wine region, seek out the small producers giving every wine, every bottle, and each grape his or per personal attention. The wines will often astound you.

PonsotThe story one level deeper is I’m starting to plan a wine tour to Burgundy for 2016. The importer friend – Benjamin Golden, Golden Vines – has already offered some suggestions for the trip.

John Baptiste Ponsot 2012 Rully ‘en Bas de Vauvray, $25.99, Very Highly Recommended.

Postscript: I will write about the two reds after tasting them. I would be happy to share the wine shop information if anyone wishes a real taste of Burgundy.

2015 is Year to Explore, Travel

20 Tuesday Jan 2015

Posted by in Newspaper Column 2015, Uncategorized

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The annual year-end column is normally a listing of my Top 10 wines of the year. Not this year, there are too many lists out there already. Instead, much like the days as an old newspaper editor, here is a collection of random thoughts you might test to improve your palate and wine enjoyment.

Grape Sense LogoDrink Different
Since launching Grape Sense in 2007 I’ve probably written “drink different” hundreds of times here and on the wine blog. Specifically, get into a wine shop or liquor store with a wide selection of wines and don’t rely on the grocery for all your wine purchases. Shops with a good selection of wine will have plenty of choices you’ve never tried.

For example: If you dislike Chardonnay, try the unoaked Chards and splurge a little on Chablis. Seek out French Rhone red wines. Novice wine consumers would be hard pressed to find better value wine than the delicious French Rhones made of Syrah, Grenache, and Mouvredre. They’re wonderful with food or on their own and often in the $12-$16 range.

Drink more South American wine in 2015. Argentina and Chile continue to produce wines which seem to improve with each vintage. Everyone knows of Argentinian Malbec but look for a Bonarda for something different. Bonarda will often have many of the same taste characteristics but a bit more of a smoky hint on the palate.

Don’t be afraid of Indiana wines. Nothing frustrates me more than the “oh, those are sweet wines” response when Hoosier wines are mentioned. Yes, most big Indiana wines haul in the vast portion of their bottom line from sweet and fruit wines. But Bill Oliver, Ted Huber, and others are making drinkable dry reds which get better with every vintage.

Educate yourself
Most wine drinkers want to enjoy a glass now and then and probably don’t have the same interest as a wine writer. But to really understand wine visit a vineyard anywhere and take a vineyard tour. You’ll learn more about wine surrounded by grapes than you will in 20 tasting room visits.

Lobby your Legislator
Indiana is the last of the 50 states banning Sunday alcohol sales. The issue is going to be addressed in the coming legislative session. It’s finally time. Grass roots support makes a difference when it’s overwhelming. If you don’t think so, just think back to last year’s incredible reaction – pro and con – to the legislature’s actions on the gay marriage fight. Your voice matters.

Wine Travel
A wine vacation can be lots of fun and you’re almost always in a beautiful location. A simple trip would be a nice two or three-day visit to Traverse City. Explore the wineries of Leelanau and Old Mission Peninsulas. If you’ve never been to Napa/Sonoma, make 2015 the year you check that off your bucket list. Whether you are a casual or very serious wino, Napa/Sonoma is a terrific vacation.

Or just take a Saturday and visit two or three Indiana wineries.

My favorite wine trip is Oregon’s Willamette valley. The Pinot Noir is world class, the food is amazing, and the vineyards are stunning. You’re also just a little more than an hour from one of our country’s most beautiful natural wonders, the Columbia River Gorge.

I’ll be leading another trip to that area in June after last year’s very successful first visit. More details to come soon.

Ask Questions
Thanks to all the readers who wrote in 2014 asking specific wine questions, wine travel questions and more. I’ll always respond. My email is at the bottom of today’s column.

Try Italian Bubbly for New Year’s Eve

30 Tuesday Dec 2014

Posted by in Holidays, Italy

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There are so many good choices for a glass of sparking wine or bubbly at New Years you can hardly go wrong.

Most of us probably won’t be buying Dom Perginon, Krug, or Cristal for the New Year’s toast Wednesday night. But there is plenty of time to grab a bottle of sparkling wine in the $10-$20 range that you and your guests can enjoy.

new_years_toastMy first instinct is to always send people to Italy’s Prosecco. The northern Italian region of Prosecco produces some of the most drinkable bubbly in the world. I quick primer starts with location. The Prosecco region in in the far northeastern corner of the boot surrounding Venice. Glera is the main grape of Proseeco, a native grape dating back to the time of the Romans. There are up to seven other grapes often blended in up to 15 percent.

Prosecco is usually a straw-yellow sparkler with a floral nose, hints of apple and pear with modest alcohol. It drinks fresh, smooth and even elegant.

The Italian bubbly is also growing in popularity as a year round drink. U.S. Prosecco exports. Imports increased 27 percent to the states in the first quarter of this year.

thBut what should go looking for? If you want to try Prosecco start with the widely available Riondo Spago Nero. The wine is really easy to drink, 100 percent Glera, and a cool 10.5 percent alcohol. I’ve probably seen this bottle in more wine shops than any other Italian Prosecco.

Another I enjoyed just as much or more was the Astoria “Lounge” Prosecco, an extra dry sparkling wine. This had really powerful pear and rich apple flavor. It’s in a distinctive squat bottle and just 11 percent alcohol.

astoria_prosecco__33659.1389809720.1280.1280The suggested price on these two Prosecco wines is $14 for the Riondo and $11 for the Astoria. Both were trade samples.

Bolla_Sparkling-Rose-bottle-135x450Let’s stay in northern Italy but take a look at the Banfi’s Bolla Sparkling Rose’. There is nothing like sparkling Rose’ for a toast or to start your morning tour when visiting old Europe.

The Bolla is made of Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir, and Raboso. It’s very floral, more pronounced fruit and a delightful sipper. It’s another wine that’s really easy to find. The Bolla is also a modest 11 percent alcohol. It’s normally priced around $12-$14.

The great thing about these wines are their affordability and wonderfully light taste. Buy several and enjoy them throughout the year. Sparkling wine makes a great summer sipper.

2014 in review

30 Tuesday Dec 2014

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The WordPress.com stats helper monkeys prepared a 2014 annual report for this blog.

Here’s an excerpt:

A New York City subway train holds 1,200 people. This blog was viewed about 5,400 times in 2014. If it were a NYC subway train, it would take about 5 trips to carry that many people.

Click here to see the complete report.

Buy Your Winos a Decanter

24 Wednesday Dec 2014

Posted by in Aerators, Gizmos & Wine Gadgets, Holidays, Newspaper Column 2014

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Tis the season and holiday shoppers often find themselves grabbing last-minute gifts. If there is a wine drinker on your list pay attention – don’t buy them wine.

Grape Sense LogoThat’s right, for the serious red wine drinkers on your Santa sheet wine is probably not a good idea. Now, if you know wine and know the wine drinker well enough to understand what they really enjoy go ahead.

But every holiday season retail shops get bombarded with well-meaning customers wanting recommendations on wine as a gift. If you insist, there will be a few recommendations at the bottom of this column.

Instead of the fermented grape juice buy your friend or family member a great wine-related gift. There is one choice any wine drinker will appreciate and could use whether they know it or not. Almost any wine at any price point will benefit from decanting.

Decanters come at every imaginable price point. You can find a decanter at your local home store for around $20 or even less. You can shop the traditional wine glassware companies and pay more. You can buy a Riedel decanter at all price points all the way up to more than $1,000. The top end are hand blown in the original Austrian factory.

Decanters come at all price points.

Decanters come at all price points.

Wine is decanted to add oxygen and allow the wine to ‘open up’ after all of that time in the bottle. This is particularly true for young wines – inexpensive or pricey.

Purchase a decanter with a large bowl. Those work best. Decanting wine can also lead to lots of questions about sediment. Some sort of strainer is often necessary when decanting or serving the wine from the decanter, especially for older wines. That stuff won’t harm you but it’s going to be bitter. Many aerators come with some sort of filter to take care of that problem.

A young, lighter-style wine will really benefit from 30 minutes to an hour-long decant. A big red wine, like Cabernet, up to two hours. Some wine, like an Italian Sangrantino, may require several hours.

A great lesson in learning more about wine can coincide with the decanting process. First, open a bottle of wine and pour a taste. Make mental notes of what the wine was like. Then pour a small taste again an hour later. The wine will be different and probably better tasting, less astringency and more pronounced fruit.

Older wines often require less of a decant and more attention to sediment. The taste test is important to learn what works best for your palate.

Now, if you insist a bottle of wine is a nicer gift than glassware go ahead and buy a bottle or two. If you know your friend or family member really likes wine but you have no idea what to buy, play it safe. Pinot Noir at the $20 and up price point makes an excellent gift. If they drink white wine try finding an unoaked Chardonnay. There are many good labels of unoaked Chard around $15.

If you’re willing to splurge buy Pinot at the $40-$50 range for great wine. But French Chablis for the white drinkers at about the same cost.

Merry Christmas and a very Happy Holiday toast!

Host Holiday Party for Charity

18 Thursday Dec 2014

Posted by in Newspaper Column 2014, Oregon

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There is never a better time for a nice bottle of wine than around Christmas and New Year’s. Why not try something different and make your holiday party festive for your friends and helpful to a community cause?

Every community across our nation has a good a good cause or organization thatGrape Sense Logo can use your support. Recently a group of friends held a wine tasting, encouraged a set donation, and then made contributions to two different good causes. The group supported a local health clinic and a health care initiative in Oregon providing coverage for migrant vineyard workers.

Here is how it worked. The three leaders decided to pour Oregon wines since part of the proceeds would go to an Oregon-based charity. The wine lineup included two Pinot Gris wines under $20 and four Pinot Noirs. The Pinot Noir wines ranged from $22 to $55 a bottle.

Now the group has some real wine geeks and they provided the wine knowledge during each pour. We had a great lineup of small bites including flat breads, pâté and the usual assortment of cheese and crackers.

Talking about iSalud and Winderlea wine

Talking about iSalud and Winderlea wine

We used social media friends’ lists and personal connections to invite people to the wine tasting/philanthropy event. We had a spokesman for the local health clinic in our group. He gave a five-minute presentation on what the local clinic was all about and then it was back to the wine.

Essentially, it was a wine event for a good cause.

The organizers bore the cost of the wine and food, though we may look at a way of writing that into the cost in future events. What you can suggest as a donation is different in every community but our group gave $50 per person – all of which went to the two charities. We ended up with a nice-sized group for the evening and raised more than $700 to split between two charities.

You don’t need some “real wine geeks” to host a party either. Just generate some conversation about the wine. What did it smell like? What flavors do you taste? What do you like or dislike about the wine? What food would pair with the wine? Take a few moments and do an internet search on each wine you’re going to pour and you’ll find plenty of talking points.

And pick any wines you like at any price point but be sure to try something new and something different.

Our group is already planning ahead for February. The next event is shaping up to be big red winter wines and supporting local summer youth sports.

In seven years of wine writing the one thing I’ve learned over and over is people do want to know about wine and actually talk about wine. There is no better way to do it than in a festive social setting.

Great wine always leads to great conversation. When the combination can benefit a good cause, everyone comes out a winner.

Cheers!

Redemption for Favorite Italian Spot

07 Sunday Dec 2014

Posted by in Food & Travel, Indiana

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BEECH GROVE, In . – An old friend may occasionally tick you off, but they’re still a friend. That’s sort of the approach I took after a May visit to my favorite Italian restaurant. Napoli Villa is a family-owned institution for those on Indy’s southside.

But back in May I had more misses than hits. I lamented in the piece I wrote that I was a frequent visitor to Napoli and had always come away delighted. That night was not a delight.

It was very telling though when I promptly got a note from a family member, Paulo, apologizing and explaining what may have happened. He even offered a gift card which I politely declined.

A return Saturday night was outstanding after a minor initial stumble.

My frequent-dining friend and I ordered our favorite appetizer, the crispy calamari. It was an outstanding pick as always.

During my May visit I was brought the wrong bottle of wine, pointed it out and was assured by a member of the ownership family that I was wrong. Well, I knew I was right.

So Saturday night I ordered the same bottle again. It was a simple Ruffino Chianti Classico. And for the second time I was brought the Chianti. I pulled our waitress aside and explained there was a difference and this had happened to me previously. She immediately realized the error and brought the correct bottle of wine!

The wine itself is a run-of-the mill Chianti. The restaurant markup is consistent with any Indy eatery. It would be nice to see a Brunello or bigger wine on the wine list, but this really is a family spot that caters to folks seeking reasonable value.

It was full speed ahead after that. My favorite pasta fagioli soup was hearty with just a slight hint of heat on the finish. The bread was warm with a nice crust.

I almost always order the homemade ravioli. The pasta was cooked perfectly al dente with a nice flavorful sausage filling. The problem was with the sauce in May but no problems this time. The lightly-spiced marinara was rich, full-flavored, with just a touch of heat. It was awesome.

We don’t always do dessert but decided to split a cannoli. It was simply the best cannoli I’ve had in years and maybe ever. The cream filling was richer than any I’ve ever had, for sure.

I also have to note our waitress was great. She apologized at least three times for bringing the wrong wine. I continued to assure her it was fine because she got it right and realized the mistake.

After paying the bill I asked if Paulo was working. He actually works full time in Indy’s corporate world but helps out with the family restaurant when needed. He came out and remembered I was the guy who “wrote that piece.” And we had a nice chat before he returned to the kitchen.

If you want authentic and truly delicious Italian, this bit-out-of-the-way and family-owned restaurant really hits the spot.

Holiday Wine Picks Not That Tough

27 Thursday Nov 2014

Posted by in Food & Travel, Newspaper Column 2014

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Thanksgiving is a time for family, memories, and sharing great meals. It’s also a time for family squabbles, uncomfortable moments, and shouting matches.

Okay, that’s a bit harsh but annually holiday gatherings can have their moments of tension. Why add to the tension by over thinking the menu or the wine choices? Keeping it simple is never better advice than around the holidays.

Grape Sense LogoThe ‘annual Thanksgiving wine column’ is a staple for every wine writer. Today’s “Thanksgiving column’ is my seventh so I decided to look over advice and offer a ‘best-of” remarks for the holiday bird and juice match up. After all, there are only a few different ways to suggest the same wines.

“Thanksgiving is about family so make it a festive occasion,” I wrote back in 2011, still good advice. “Try a light sparkling wine before the big meal. It’s sure to be a hit. Look for a Spanish Cava, Italian Prosecco, or Gloria Ferrer’s delightful Sonoma County sparklers. For something really festive and delicious, I love Banfi Rosa Regale. The Banfi wine sells for right at $20, has just seven percent alcohol, and is delicious.”

It’s hard to improve on that start to your dinner or holiday wine recommendations.

turkey-and-wine-500x332Back in 2010 the column was largely about traditional Thanksgiving whites like Riesling which offers nice fruit and balanced acidity for foul. The great thing about Riesling is the availability. Any wine shop, and most grocery stores and liquor shops, will have a Riesling. New York’s Finger Lakes and upper Michigan wineries all produce great Riesling. If you want the classics look to the German Mosel region and France’s Alsace versions.

A really great choice, and personal favorite, is unoaked Chardonnay. More specifically, a premier cru or grand cru Chablis is unparalleled at the Thanksgiving table. The rich fruit along with the crisp acidity and mineralality mixes perfectly with the bird and most of the side dishes. Good Chablis of such pedigree will set you back at least $25-$30 for starters. There are many Chablis wines, non appellation specific, for under $20. But give the cru wines a try for an important family holiday meal.

Indiana’s signature grape Traminette also works well if you like sweeter wines. Gewurztraminer was a very fashionable pick for years but Traminette substitutes nicely. You can enjoy a floral, light-bodied wine and support Indiana’s wine industry. I prefer the drier versions of Indiana’s Traminette but they can be hard to find. Most Indiana Traminette has substantial residual sugar. A few wineries, like Turtle Run, Corydon, and others are producing Traminette in a dry version now days.

Pinot Noir is an easy red pick for your turkey and dressing but I prefer Beaujolais Grand Cru wines if I’m having red. No, we’re not talking about the gimmicky Beaujolais Nouveau wines but the Grand Cru wines which have some oak aging. There are 10 Beaujolais Grand Cru wines and all are reasonably priced in the mid to upper teens. Gamay is the grape of Beaujolais and it offers a wonderful light bodied wine with a wisp of earthiness that pairs well with the bird.

Happy Thanksgiving!

Order Restaurant Wine Carefully

17 Monday Nov 2014

Posted by in Food & Travel, Newspaper Column 2014

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Occasionally a wine story makes the news beyond the tiny world of wine media. There has been a quirky, and unfortunate, story dominate wine chat the past few weeks. It’s a story of blindly ordering wine, questionable motives of a server, and a wine tab of nearly $4000.

First, the basics of the story which have been widely reported through numerous media outlets. Joe Lentini was with a group of associates at the Bobby Flay Steak restaurant at the Borgata Hotel Casino & Spa in Atlantic City, N.J.

Grape Sense LogoSomeone at his table of 10 asked him to order the wine. Joe, admittedly not a big wine guy, asked for advice. He asked for ‘something decent.” The server pointed to a bottle on the menu, which Joe couldn’t read because he forgot his glasses, and agreed.

But here is where the story takes a twist. Joe asked how much the wine cost and the server responded, “Thirty-seven fifty.”

See where this is headed?

The group enjoyed dinner and thought the wine was okay. Dinner is completed and the check arrived including a wine tab for one bottle of 2011 Screaming Eagle cabernet for $3,750.00 – not $37.50.

The diners complained they were misled by the server but the restaurant would not yield. They did bring the wine cost down to $2,200 which Joe and another diner split the cost. Everyone at the table confirmed Joe’s story.

I found the wine on numerous internet sites ranging from $1,300 to $2,100.

Check those prices carefully

Check those prices carefully

The incident sent the wine media all a Twittter (pun intended).

The restaurant stands by its employees. The Bobby Flay restaurant serves plenty of high-end diners and sells lots of high-end wine. But the mistake here is pretty clear. The server responded “thirty-seven fifty” when “three-thousand, seven-hundred, fifty” would have been much more appropriate.

The story is an opportunity to review some of the basics of ordering wine in any restaurant, but especially high-end spots.

First, fine-dining restaurants depend on wine revenue. The standard markup on food is small compared to the 100 percent and more markup of a bottle of wine. Casually taking a recommendation at a high-end establishment should never be as risky as it was in Jersey that night.

Still, know what you are ordering. A good server would have asked the diner if they had a price range and the incident would have never happened. There is nothing wrong with giving a waiter or wine steward a price point when ordering. Look at the wine list and find a price you are comfortable with before asking for a suggestion.

The final step in making sure you get what you ordered is to pay attention to the details on the wine list and make sure they match when the bottle is brought to the table. Things like the region in Napa, or wherever, and definitely the vintage year can significantly affect price on more expensive wines.

The final restaurant wine tip is an old one and a bit dubious but I have found it consistently accurate. Don’t order the cheapest bottle because no one wants to be that person. Some restaurants will actually mark up their cheapest bottles for a larger margin than moderately-priced bottles. It doesn’t take a degree in economics to figure that one out – they sell more of the cheaper bottles.

In a nice restaurant skip the first few bottles and order from the bottom/middle half (price-point wise) of the wine list. I find some of the best bargains in that niche’.