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Howard W. Hewitt

~ … The "W" stands for wine!

Howard W. Hewitt

Category Archives: Washington State

Nothing Wrong With a Soft Cabernet

28 Friday Mar 2014

Posted by Howard in Washington State

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Cabernet Sauvignon wines, Columbia Valley Cabernet, Tamarack Cellars, Walla Walla, Washington

The big brawny Cabernet Sauvignon wines from the US west coast are some of the most interesting wines in the world. The big bold flavor with a char-grilled steak is one of life’s real pleasured for serious wine drinkers. But that big smooth flavor and drinkability can easily run $50-$100.

But if you like the taste of a Cab and don’t want knocked off your feet, it can be hard to get a well-made and full-flavored Cabernet. Just don’t head west but head to the northwest and you might find the bottle to suit your taste.

tamarackWashington state red blends are some of the best US blends money can buy. A wide variety of affordable Washington Cabernets also fit that bill of full-fruit mouth feel, soft tannins, a nice finish, and imminently drinkable glass of red wine – even without food!

But if you’re like me and just like the taste of a Cab but don’t always want the power – you need a softer version. I have a go-to bottle now days I just love and it’s pretty easy to find. This is a wine to never buy just a bottle, grab six or a case!

Tamarack Cellars 2010 Columbia Valley Cabernet – The best thing about Tamarack is the beautiful mouthfeel and balance from the tip of your tongue until the wine goes down the hatch with a delightful finish.

Just out of the bottle you’ll get some oak and moderately strong tannins, but it softens up with a decant or a day after opening with good storage practices. It has rich dark fruit, a hint of vanilla, and maybe some black raspberry.

The SRP on this wine may in the $30 range but you’ll often find it at $25-$30. It’s worth every nickel for the price point.

Tamarack Cellars 2010 Columbia Valley Cabernet, the 2011 Cab of the same heritage has a SRP of $36. Very Highly Recommended!

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Incredible Syrah for Well Under $20

13 Monday Jan 2014

Posted by Howard in Washington State

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Avalon Wine & Northwest Wine, Columbia Valley Syrah, Corvidae, Edgar Allen Poe, Lenore, Lenore Syrah, Owen Roe, Syrah, The Wine Monster, Washington State, WinePeeps

zpoeimgi   For the rare and radiant maiden whom the angels name Lenore – Nameless here for ever more.
                                       – The Raven, Edgar Allen Poe.

Each year the perfunctory task of a year-end or best-of list is compiled here and elsewhere. It’s hard to think that I might taste the best value wine of the year on Jan. 13 .. but maybe; it might have happened tonight!

Corvidae Lenore 2011 Columbia Valley Syrah – The Owen Roe wine is crazy, incredible, and just plain stupidly good for the mid-teen price range.

The Corvidae label is the value or second-tier label for much-respected Owen Roe Winery in Washington state.  I googled the wine and enjoyed the various reviews. I usually do that after writing my own comments. But I was curious if other writers thought it was kick-ass as I found it.

So here are some other thoughts:

LenoreFrom Wine Peeps: Deep, dark purple. Oak and dark fruits come through on the nose; more dark fruits and spice on the palate. Medium to full-bodied with lively acidity, medium tannins, and a long finish. A good weeknight wine.
Quality: 3.5 stars (out of 5) QPR: 5 bangs for your buck (out of 5)

Corvidae Lenore Syrah, grown in the Columbia Valley has great spice, bright fruit, deep purple hues, and gorgeous texture and is really a steal for the quality it delivers. Pair Corvidae Syrah, a juicy, boisterous wine, with barbecued babyback ribs, a hearty lamb stew, your favorite burger or just on it’s own.

Avalon Wine & Northwest Wine: “Corvidae” is named for the family of birds that includes crows and ravens. Crows have a long history in folklore and mythology. David was inspired to name the label Corvidae by the many crows that circle the sky over his winery in Yakima.

And my favorite:

The Wine Monster:” The black raven on the label says it all. This is a big full bodied Syrah that makes you feel like you just got mugged by Edgar Allen Poe.”

This is one of the best value wines I’ve tasted in several years. Tasted blindly, I’d have guessed it was a $30-$40 wine. Big fruit and spice without being jammy and beautifully balanced.

Oh, it would be a failure not to note Coridae wines are named after a fairy tale or fable. The winemakers were inspired to name this wine by the number of crows around the vineyard!

Corvidae Lenore 2011 Columbia Valley Syrah, SRP $16.95, Very Highly Recommended

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Three Bold Reds for Summer Grilling

17 Wednesday Jul 2013

Posted by Howard in Australia/New Zealand, Organic, South America, Washington State

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Chateau Tanunda, GrandBarossa, Powers Spectrum, Zuccardi Malbec

steakThere is nothing like a grilled steak or other beast off the charcoal during these hot summer days. After lots of Rose’ and white wine, it’s time for a taste of red.

Fire up the grill, add a little BBQ rub to those thick ribeyes and enjoy any of these three wines. Here are three diverse choices with Argentinian Malbec, Australian Cabernet, and a wonderful red blend from Washington state all making the grade.

zuccardi_serie_a_malbec11Zuccardi Serie A 2011 Malbec – There are a lot of so-so and uninteresting Malbecs on the market – but even those are good QPR (quality to price ratio) wines.

The Zuccardi really delivers big dark fruit, some will argue a little over-ripe or jammy, but the finish had enough tannin to cut through the fat of the ribeye.

The silky mouth feel and lighter tannins make a great steak pairing. The winemaker ages 70 percent of the juice in oak. It comes in at 14 percent alcohol.

This wine earned 90 points from Robert Parker.

Zuccardi Serie A 2011 Malbec, online at $12-$20, widely available, Highly Recommended.

GBCabSavChateau Tanunda Grand Barossa Cabernet Sauvignon – Like many Americans I haven’t been drinking much Australian wine in recent years. Much has been written about the decline of Australian imports. Fingers are often pointed at the critter wines which brought Australian wine to prominence but were of lesser quality.

So I was prepared for a so-so Cabernet and found myself pleasantly surprised and pleased with the Tanunda Cab. The winery dates back into the late 1800s and the nice balance of this wine suggests a long tradition of winemaking.

The grapes are a blend from several vineyards in the Barossa region. Once into the winery the wine is aged 16 month in oak for a big structure and body that holds up great for any grilled beast.

Ratings from Australian reviews put the wine at 89 points, and I’d say that’s about right.

Chateau Tanunda Grand Barossa Cabernet Sauvignon, $17 average online price, Trade Sample, Recommended for the price point.

09_PW_SPECTRUMPowers 2010 Spectrum – I liked all three of these reds alot. The Spectrum was my choice of the three though. It’s big enough to please regular wine drinkers, rounded enough for wine novices, and pairs great with about any dish.

The blend is 39 percent Merlot, 33 percent Syrah, 22 percent Malbec, 6 percent Cabernet Sauvignon. Rich red fruit and a hint of herbs makes this a great drinking wine. It’s oaked in a combination of new and neutral wooden barrels.

It registers in with 14.5 percent alcohol but didn’t taste hot on the palate at all.

Powers has a very nice line of wines. They have been a leader in organic and low-impact farming.

Powers 2010 Spectrum, $10-$13 online, Highly Recommended.

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Mmmm – Some Wonderful Big Red Wine

06 Sunday Jan 2013

Posted by Howard in Italy, Napa/Sonoma, Washington State

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It’s winter and cold outside and there’s nothing better than hearty food and some big red wine! I’ve had a couple this weeks that just knocked my socks off. The three range from a dynamite and impressive Washington Blend, an Italian classic, and a bold California Cabernet!

Columbia Crest Horse Heaven Hills Les Cheavaux – Indeed, it would not be a crazy mistake to mis-identfy this Merlot-driven blend as a Bordeaux wine. While not as nuanced as inexpensive Saint Emilion, it has the fruit characteristics to make you look twice at the bottle. It also has a price that doesn’t look anything like what you’d pay for a right-bank Bordeaux!

Lets start with the blend which is 80 percent Merlot, 13 percent Cabernet, and 7 percent Syrah. If you like big bold fruit, you’re going to love this wine. Big fruit, big tannins from 18 months in oak, and enormous value. Dark fruit, dark chocolate, some spice, plenty of earth, and a big finish makes this a great wine for hearty meals.

I’m excited about this wine because of the price point. You just can’t find wine this big and this balanced for $10-$20 – and that exactly the price range you’ll find Horse Heaven Hills in at your favorite wine shop. The national average is $15, duh, and I found it for a bit less!

Oh, did I mention I’m not the only crazy for this wine? Wine Spectator scored this wine at 90 points – and as one of 2012’s outstanding values!

Horse Heaven Hills Les Cheavux, $15, Very Highly Recommended.

La Palazzetta 2009 Rosso di Montalcino – Long one of the best values out of Tuscany, the Rosso di Montalcino wines seldom disappoint.

While this one was a bit flat on the fruit the freshness of the wine was still a defining characteristic. Good Sangiovese has acidity, certainly, but the better-drinking Sangiovese-based wines bring a clean fresh fruit to the palate.

This wine is even a bit floral and incredibly pleasant. I’ve had better, but not many.

La Palazzetta 2009 Rosso di Montalcino, $19.99, Cork+Cracker, Indy, Recommended.

Fontanella 2008 Mt. Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon – Oh my! This is darn fine wine. This bottle was a gift I had been saving for a nice occasion and a medium-rare roast with herbs and a friend made for good enough excuse.

After a nice two-hour decant, the Fontanella was silky smooth yet big Cabernet. I absolutely loved the rich mouth feel. Certainly has dark fruit and some hints of wood. It’s a big mouthful of very drinkable California Cabernet.

Truly outstanding wine! 91 points from Wine Spectator!

Fontanella 2008 Mt. Veeder Cabernet, $50, Very Highly Recommended.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

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How About Splurging for the Holidays

17 Monday Dec 2012

Posted by Howard in France, Newspaper Column 2012, Uncategorized, Washington State

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If there is ever a time to splurge on something special, it’s the holidays for most of us. For five years now Grape Sense has focused on value wine under $20. That’s not going to change. But for one column, here are some suggestions that will range $10-$20 higher than the wines normally mentioned in the column.

One of the great adventures in a wine education is discovering price point differences relative to quality. There are many differences of opinion. My experience is that when you break about $15, there is a difference in quality.

Here are some wines for a special occasion that should deliver a real bang on the palate for just a 10 or 20 spot more than the usual $12-$15 bottle. It may take a wine shop to find them, but all should be available in Indiana, Illinois, and Michigan.
Lange Willamette Valley Pinot Noir – The Lange Pinot at about $22 is one of the best ‘entry level’ Oregon Pinot Noirs on the market. Jesse and Don Lange deliver better fruit than most at this price.
The wine remains light bodied and well balanced the key characteristics of great Oregon Pinot Noir.
Klinker Brick Zinfandel – There are plenty of under $15 Zins on the market but few under $20 that provide the bang for the buck that Klinker Brick delivers. This is on my all-time list for great wines under 20 bucks. This is old vine Zin which delivers big fruit that balances the higher-than-usual alcohol. It’s dynamite red wine for winter meals.

Tamarack Cellars Merlot – The oft-maligned red grape is making a comeback of sorts. Washington state producers have been leading the pack in developing interesting Merlot wines with dark fruit, spice, and chocolate flavors. This wine has been a 90-point-plus entry from most of the critics. It can be found at $20-$25.

Ca’ De’ Rocchi Ripasso Montere – This is the best value Italian red wine I’ve ever tasted. Ripasso style wines from the Valpolicella district have been hot. It’s made from the Corvina, Rondinella, and Moliara grapes. The combination creates a fruit wine with some real depth. It’s perfect for food and friends who may not always be big wine drinkers. Look for it at $20-$24. The wine is an incredible value buy.
Obra Prima ReservaMalbec – As much as the Ripasso above is good for wine novices, the Obra Prima isn’t for newcomers. For the wine drinker who likes big dark fruit, dark chocolate, wonderfully balanced acid and tannin, here is a pick for you. The 2007 vintage in current release sells for $17.

Fleur Cardinale Grand Cru Saint Emilion – If you want to go all out for a special night or impress your friends, reach for Bordeaux. Wines from the world’s greatest regions are famously wonderful and expensive. This Merlot driven blend is a great way to see what the wine world swoons over when it comes to the iconic French region. Robert Parker rates it at 90 points, and I think it’s even a tad bit better than that. It really does taste well above the not-so-cheap price point of $45.

Billaud-Simon Premier Cru Montee de Tonnerre – Taste the terroir of Burgundy with this great bottle of Chablis (Chardonnay) from one of the region’s greatest producers. This wine is stunning with poultry or smoke salmon. Chablis has long suffered from poor imitators. It’s rare you can enjoy a bottle of some of the world’s very best wine for the average price of $25.
NEXT COLUMN: Check out the annual list of Top 10 Value Wines of the Year!

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

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Merlot and Pinot Noir Knock It Out of the Park!

04 Sunday Nov 2012

Posted by Howard in Italy, Washington State

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Merlot, Peter Zemmer Alto Ridge Pinot Noir, Tamarack, Washington State

The two wines I’m catching up on tonight were big surprises for me for different reasons. One was a wine I generally find “blah” (that’s a technical term) and the other was a big surprise from an unlikely location.

Tamarack Cellars 2008 Merlot – I don’t dislike Merlot nearly as much as I often find it uneven, uninteresting, and over ripe.

I was picking wines for a big dinner at work and tasted the Tamarack and was blown away by the dark fruit, chocolate, and spice of the Washington state wine. It’s 90 percent Merlot with a splash of Cabernet and Cab Franc sourced from the Columbia Valley.

This Merlot had structure and secondary flavors of cocoa powder, maybe a slight hint of cinammon or one of those pumpkin pie spices. It was just wonderful with the steak we had at the dinner.

Wine Enthusiast liked this wine too, awarding it 92 points. Robert Parker at Wine Advocate gave the juice an 88, a bit down from Enthuisast obviously but still a good score.

I’d recommend this wine to anyone wanting a nice wine with a beef dish. It has a richness and structure that an awful lot of Merlot lacks.

This was simply one of the best U.S. Merlots I’ve tasted in a long, long time. I did buy this wine in Indiana.

Tamarack Cellars 2008 Merlot, $19-$26, Highly Recommended.

Peter Zemmer Alto Ridge Pinot Noir – Pinot from Italy! Seriously! Sure, I know the Italians grow some Pinot Noir and I’ve tasted just a few but this one was darn nice wine.

This area is up near Austria in Italy and clearly takes advantage of the higher altitude to produce very enjoyable Pinot. It was fairly light on the palate but had true Pinot characteristics for my palate. It has soft cherry and some floral hints on the nose and taste. It also had that silky quality I love in Pinot Noir!

Peter Zemmer Alto Ridge Pinot Noir, Around $20, Recommended.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

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