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Howard W. Hewitt

~ … The "W" stands for wine!

Howard W. Hewitt

Category Archives: Food & Travel

Two Ladies Rocking Chocolate

07 Thursday Feb 2013

Posted by Howard in Food & Travel, Indiana

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The more you get into food and wine, the more most people get into the local farm-to-fork movement and buying local products.

Shop Local! Two Delightful Ladies Rocking ChocolateWith Valentine’s Day just one week from today, many Americans are thinking chocolate. My newspaper column went out to the newspapers today featuring comments from Elizabeth Garber, Indy’s Best Chocolate in Town owner and chocolatier.

That column will be posted here the first of next week. But many people will be buying chocolate this weekend and I wanted to plug two friends in the sweets business.

Garber’s story is one of building success form the ground up. She started small in Franklin, Edinburgh, and then opened her now-highly-successful shop on Indy’s Mass Avenue. She has wonderful truffles with all sorts of flavored ganache. She has flavored popcorns and many other chocolate treats.

Her truffles just rock!

But I also know Julie Bolejack owner and chocolatier with her business Chocolate for the Spirit. She also has delightful truffles and all sorts of chocolate treats.

Julie has taken her chocolates on the road and won accolades at the New York Chocolate Show and had her goodies served at Super Bowl parties and the MTV Awards.

Bolejack and her chocolate treats!

One of her best known treats is her Mayan bar. It is very unique and attention getting spicy chocolate made with Saigon cinnamon, chipotle and chili spices – according to Julie’s website. Julie also has a booth at Indy’s popular City Market. She participates in several farmer’s markets as well.

There are other artisan chocolate makers in Indy, I’m sure. But I’ve bought regularly from these two and have gotten to know them just a bit. They both have a fabulous product line. Both business have great websites linked here. You can learn more about where to buy the product.

Wine prices are always listed in every review I do on this blog. So it’s fair to note that both of these chocolatiers make a premium product with a premium price. Depending on the exact product, you can expect to pay an average of $2 and up per truffle.

I make recommendations – okay, maybe this one sounds more like a plug. But there has been no chocolate kickback … well, maybe a bite here and there. But these are local businesswomen succeeding at high and very tasty level.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

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Mama’s for Traditional Italian!

03 Sunday Feb 2013

Posted by Howard in Food & Travel, Indiana

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During travel around the country for wine or work, I like to throw up a short blog post about any great restaurant visit. Living 45 minutes northwest of Indianapolis doesn’t afford me many opportunities to get into the city to the better spots, but I make a point to eat well in Indy whenever I can.

For Traditional Italian Dinner, You Gotta Go to Mama'sAn impending birthday (well, they can’t be avoided so embrace them) was the reason to head to Broad Ripple on Indy’s north side and a visit to classic – Mama’s Corolla’s!

Mama’s is a very busy spot for folks in the know looking for great Italian. I had been there once before and remembered it as good but Saturday night was off the charts good.

We started with the fried ravioli and a light marinara dipping sauce. The ravioli, with cheese stuffing, was toasty and delicious. We also had wonderful calimari – small pieces which were crispy and a great dipping sauce that had a hint of horseradish.

Mama Corolla’s on 54th near Broad Ripple!

My dinner was a signature Mama favorite, the Rosemary Chicken Lasagna. The old-fashioned sweet marinara was a perfect companion to the chicken, herbs, and cheese. It was one of the best entree’s I’ve had in a long time.

We split a piece of Ricotta cake garnished with blackberries. All the time we were enjoying a big fruity and soft Italian Ripasso.

I love the new chef-driven and farm-to-fork restaurants popping up. But once in a while the classics can’t be beat!

Oh Mama, you make me so happy!

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

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Indy’s Tastings Wine Bar Fun

24 Thursday Jan 2013

Posted by Howard in Food & Travel, Indiana

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The concept of the pay card and two-ounce pours at wine bars isn’t a new one. But it is relatively new in Indianapolis.

Though I had visited Indy’s Tastings wine bar once previously for a winemaker event, I had never had the full experience until Monday night. In summary, it’s fun and a real must-do for wine lovers. It’s not expensive but certainly not cheap either.

The concept is simple enough. Your waitress or waiter will provide you a plastic charge card with as much credit as you wish to put on the card. There are nearly 100 wines available to taste in a two-ounce pour format. Now, two ounces really is a pretty nice, though small, glass of wine. It’s plenty to determine whether you like the wine or not. The photo at right is one I took before writing this post. The smallish glass is sitting with a standard size bottle with about two ounces of wine.

There is a wonderful menu of small plates. I had proscuitto and fresh mozzarella on a crostini for $9 and it was better than good but not great. It was well worth the nine bucks.

I was meeting a young friend who wanted to expand his palate for job interview purposes in the wine industry.

We tasted the following wines:

– A New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc that was $3.30 a pour and $24 a bottle.
– A French Grenache-Syrah Cotes du Rhone for $4.15 pour or $30 a bottle
– A California Lodi Zinfandel for $3.15 and $23 a bottle.
– A French Chinon, or Cabernet Franc, at $4 a pour or $29 a bottle
… then I splurged and bought my friend the last glass … A prominent California Cabernet from a prominent maker at $9.65 a pour and $70 a bottle.

Now, about those prices. I didn’t have much objection to the pour price but if you consider that there are approximately 25 ounces in a 750 ml bottle, at two ounces a pour they certainly are making some money.

Let’s use the California Cab as an example. At $9.65 a pour, assuming 12 pours to the bottle, you get a nifty $115 gross. That’s not bad for a bottle they’re selling for $70. It’s really profitable when you consider the Cab’s retail price averages $45-$50. The other wines had similar mark ups.

Yes, the bottle mark-up is similar, if not quite, high-end restaurant prices. Tastings is a beautiful place, fully staffed, on the ground floor of Indy’s Conrad Hotel. In other words, for the uniformed, this is not the low rent  district.

Would I buy a bottle there? No, I wouldn’t.

But put $25-$30 on a card and taste 4-5-6 wines with friends and taste new things? It’s is absolutely worth the investment. I’ll definitely go back!

Similar wine bars continue to pop up all across the country.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

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Transcontinental Travel & Press Trips

27 Saturday Oct 2012

Posted by Howard in Food & Travel, France

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PARIS, France – When 2012 began it was hard to image Languedoc, Bordeaux, and Chablis would be added to my wine travel resume.

Yet, I just arrived at Auxerre, near Chablis, France.
I attended the Millesime Bio in Montpellier, in Southern France, in January thanks largely to networking and wine friends. A New York marketing firm representing Bordeaux winemakers found me for the July trip to Bordeaux’s Fete le Vin. This trip is a similar story with a NY firm representing Chablis issuing the invitation.
I was actually invited on a late-September trip to Provence, which I would have loved, but had to turn it down for an important work conflict. The contact then shared plans for an early October presser into regions of the Languedoc I had not visited in January – and I declined that one because of the bill-paying job. But when they mentioned Chablis at the end of the month, I knew I could make the trip.
The trip was unnecessarily arduous – Indy to Atlanta with an unexpected stop in New York. We flew up the eastern coast off the shores of North American and out of the Atlantic only to divert back to JFK airport to check an “electrical problem. That took an hour and half-plus before we again headed to Paris. I arrived six hours after my scheduled arrival and 15 hours on a Delta 747. And no one cares about other people’s flight woes, but if you’re booking a flight anytime soon I will note that on four Delta flights to Europe this year I’ve had three substantial flight issues.
All you need on a plane, a laptop and glass of French Merlot
My savior today was Noemie of Sopexo’s Paris office. The young French woman, who spent part of a year interning in New York City, was assigned to get me on my way to Auxerre. Even that proved eventful. Finding one’s way through Charles DeGaulle Airport is a challenge. But I’ve made it, so let the wine geekiness begin. It kicks off tonight with a welcoming dinner hosted by Jean Francois Bordet, President of the Chablis Commission of the Burgundy Wine Board our host.
Press trips are an oddity that have become very popular in recent years. I believe in full disclosure and that’s really the topic of the post. The sponsoring organization pays all costs. Obviously, flying four journalists from the USA to Paris, taxi rides, dinners, overnight stays, etc, isn’t an inexpensive proposition.
And for the record, if not obvious, they take very good care of us and treat us well! (That might actually be an understatement.)
I didn’t know what to make of these wine press trips in 2010 when I was invited to participate on a trip to Paso Robles, California. As a longtime traditional print journalist, I was taken aback by accepting a trip and perks which would have been unthinkable in the newspaper business. So I consulted with a few wine-writing friends who gave me the lowdown..
Essentially the advice was to go. They cautioned me to avoid any quid pro quo – or, ‘Yes, I’ll write all about your region and your wines if you take me on this free trip.’ And most smart New York marketing companies know how that works. Some do push a little harder than others on what one ‘might write.’ Instead, I’ve learned the best answer is a simple truth. I make no promises. But with a widely distributed newspaper column, this blog, an every-other-week column in Indianapolis’ NUVOweekly, quarterly feature for Madison Magazine, based in Anderson, IN., and as a founding contributing editor for Palate Press – The National Online Wine Magazine, I have a lot of mouths to feed.
So what do the wine regions get out of it? Couldn’t they just go buy an ad in Wine Spectatoror one of the major US wine publications? Well, they could but they wouldn’t be able to tell stories or match the cost efficiency.
I will post something this weekend about the other U.S. wine journalists on the trip – Roger Morris, Lisa Hall, and Michael Apstein. But we all represent different areas of the country with different audiences. I offer up to 300,000 homes because of my print work – and that doesn’t include the hits my column gets on the newspaper sites that post it after print publication. I have the national/international audience through Palate Press – if I find a “story” I like and one the editors of PP will accept.
So you do the math and a press trip is far less expensive for regional wine associations than traditional advertising venues.
Furthermore, I would argue, for the most part you are also winning over brand ambassadors. On the trips I’ve joined, most of the writers were making their first visit to the region. That first-ever trip to Paso Robles continues to show up in my wine writing more than two years after I visited the area. I know about Paso and its Rhone grapes, rich Cabernet and Syrah.
As one might imagine I catch a lot of good natured teasing where I work. “Off on another free wine junket, huh?” Well, yes I am. Frankly, most wine writers – including yours truly– make nothing on our wine writing efforts. I have a full time job in marketing and communication that pays the bills. The few pieces I am paid for over the course of a year might cover a car payment but not the monthly mortgage.
Please follow along. I learn things each time around. I didn’t buy an AT&T data plan on the two previous visits to France this year but did for this trip. That means I’ll be able to Tweet and do Facebook posts throughout the weekend.
The most exciting thing though is learning about a wine region new to me – in this case one of the most prestigious and terroir-driven regions in the world. We have a great itinerary.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

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Back to France: Off to Chablis Thursday

24 Wednesday Oct 2012

Posted by Howard in Food & Travel, France

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Chablis, wine travel

If I’m not a full-fledged Francophile by Christmas it’s not for a lack of opportunity. I’ll be leaving Thursday for my third France wine press trip of 2012.

I’ll join three other U.S. wine journalists as guests of the Burgundy Wine Board at the Chablis Fete des Vins, or wine festival. This is a quick trip. We arrive Friday morning, spend time at the festival and in the vineyards and wineries Saturday and Sunday and its then a quick return home Monday.

But hey, it’s France; and, it’s Chablis!

I’m going to try to blog each day and do more frequent updates on Facebook and Twitter. You can follow me through the links in the right column. On previous trips I didn’t activate a data plan for my iPhone but it’s only $30 so this time I’m going to give it a try.

Jean-Francois Bordet of Domaine Seguinot Bordet

We’re going to be staying in the nearby city of Auxxere, a town of about 40,000 people not far from Chablis. After a get-acquainted dinner Friday night, we have a very full Saturday agenda. But it seems quite an honor that we will be dining with Jean-Francois Bordet, the President of the Chablis Commission of the Burgundy Wine Board.

We’ll start in the vineyards and then taste the award winners of the 2012  Chablis Wine Awards.

Saturday afternoon will be an afternoon of tasting and discovery with more than 50 presenters of Chablis’ four appelations. They are certainly treating the journalists well on this trip. On Saturday evening we will be guests of the Confrerie des Piliers Chablisiens – “a wine society that honors those who by activity, writing, or way of doing things have served the cause of Burgundy and more especially Chablis.”

These societies are common in the great wine producing regions of France. It’s a real honor to be able to attend.

The Piliers Chablisiens parade gets us started on Sunday with visits after lunch to Domaine Billaud-Simon with Bernard Billaud and then a tasting at La Chablisienne.

We’ll be transported back to Paris Sunday evening to catch our Monday flights home.

This should be a really memorable trip. I’m not sure any region is best known for its expression of terrior through just one grape – Chardonnay – like Chablis. Follow along here and on my social media sites.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

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Michael Ruhlman: Wine Adds Flavor to Your Dishes

23 Tuesday Oct 2012

Posted by Howard in Food & Travel

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Michael Rulhman

Ruhlman during a visit to Wabash College

So much fuss is made over pairing wine and food that the home cook may not think of wine as an asset in flavoring their dishes.

Michael Ruhlman, one of American’s most prolific and authoritative food authors, said wine can be used as a great marinade to enhance foods. Ruhlman, known for his 18 books and appearances on the Food Network and with Anthony Bourdain on the Travel Channel, made a recent brief visit to Indiana.

The Cleveland native said one of the most important rules is an old one. “Always use a wine that you would feel comfortable drinking,” he said. “But not a Chateau Margaux (very expensive French wine). You don’t want to throw that in a pot of stew; use a drinkable, affordable wine.”
“I like to add it in the beginning when the alcohol tends to burn off faster. You can add it at the end but it definitely flavors it different. I always add it first at the first de-glazing or adding of the liquid ingredients.”
Ruhlman has written books with some of the country’s top chefs. He also has learned from them while writing. His big career break came when he had the opportunity to help Thomas Keller, chef at The French Laundryin Napa, write The French Laundry Cookbook. The iconic wine country restaurant has long been considered one of the nation’s best.
“I learned this from Thomas Keller,” Ruhlman said. “People often like to put wines in marinades but the alcohol in marinades will actually de-nature the exterior of the protein and prevent any flavors from entering the meat. You’re not really helping the meat; in fact, you’re helping the outside become slightly mushy by marinating in wine.
“What I learned from Keller is that if you’re going to use wine, and it’s a great thing to marinate with, cook off the alcohol first then add the aromatics. Add the onions, carrots, and thyme or whatever you want. Throw in the pepper and some salt so that it steeps and cooks then flame it and make sure you can’t get any flame. Once the alcohol is cooked off then you have this really tasty fluid to marinate your meat.”

Ruhlman said he’d even eat boneless, skinless chicken breast if it was properly marinated. “And let’s face it, chicken breast is the skim milk of the protein world that America relies on. If home cooks would learn to marinate it properly they’d have something really tasty.”

As a celebrity chef often recognized for his appearances as a judge on Food Network’s “Iron Chef“, Ruhlman also gets asked about wine and food pairing.
“I tell people to use their common sense and pay attention,” he said.  “Does it go well with the food? Does the red wine go with the fish or does it overpower the fish? How does a white wine contribute to the flavor? Does it have the right acidity for the dish?
“We educate ourselves by paying attention to what we eat and drink. There are no hard and fast rules. I try to tell people not to be intimated by wine. There’s so much to learn and there are experts out there to varying degrees. Don’t ever feel cowed by the experts and rely on your own taste.”
Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

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Great Friday Night Dining and Wine in St. Louis

14 Sunday Oct 2012

Posted by Howard in Food & Travel

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LoRusso's of St. Louis, Ruffino Modus, Wine Merchant of St. Louis

SAINT LOUIS – Many of my wine writing friends and wine drinking friends tell me to write more about food and my hits will increase. I know they’re right. I do try to write about food and dining when I travel personally or on business.

I’ve had business reasons to come to this city on a few occasions but never an overnight. So when a group of us had to hit the Gateway to the West overnight we made plans. We were in the city for College business Saturday afternoon.

We had lots of recommendations for an Italian restaurant on the city’s iconic “Hill” district and settled on LoRusso‘s. It proved to be a great choice!

Our table was ready upon arrival which always gets me off on the right foot. We had two experienced wine drinkers, two young wine drinkers, and two current students so four wine drinkers.

We started with great bruschetta and the iconic toasted ravioli. Several of the guys had the standard dinner salad while I opted for the evenings salad special which was a thick slice of toasted bread, gorgonzola cheese, and then smothered with Roma tomatos with a drizzle of olive oil and fantastic balsamic vinegar.

The highlight at LoRusso’s was the entrees, as it should be at any great restaurant. One of the guys had wonderful/spicy Cioppino. A couple had pasta/seafood combinations and two of us had beef tenderloin dishes. I had marinated then breaded tenderloin medallions which were charbroiled and served in lemon wine sauce. It was topped with prosciutto and mushrooms. The steak was perfectly cooked to a a nice medium rare and the flavor combinations were simply off the charts. It was one of the best dishes I’ve had in any Italian restaurant. It included several side choices; I had simple pasta in olive oil.

When asked, no one wanted dessert. Then when the waitress brought around the always-tempting dessert tray to show off the goodies – six desserts were on their way. A couple of the guys had blood orange gelato, one had this marvelous chocolate iced white chocolate/devils food cake with crazy raspberry sauce. I had the cannoli, the only low point of the meal. There was nothing wrong with the traditional Italian dessert, I’ve just had better in any number of Indianapolis Italian restaurants.

And that brings us to the wine. LoRusso’s wine list was top notch. They had wines from all the major wine regions of the world and great selection of Italian reds. The list included $200 Brunello down to $30 Valpolicella offerings. I didn’t  want to pay $70 for a Valpollicella so asked for a little assistance. The hostess, and one of the owners, recommended a couple of wines.

Since we had two novice wine drinkers I wanted something a little lighter. The owner suggested a Langhe Nebbiolo, which I was surprised to see on the list for a reasonable $38. The Bricco  Enrichetta 2010 wine was fruity, not nearly as dry as much Nebbiolo and perfect for our appetizers and salads. I thought it was nice and the younger guys loved it.

Interesting enough, everyone loved the bigger wine much more. The recommended Ruffino Modus 2008 blend of 50 percent Sangiovese, 25 percent Cab, and 25 percent Merlot was a great bottle. It sold in the restaurant for $48. (More on the price below.) It was a perfect pairing for those of us with the steak dishes but the other guys liked it as well.

If you’re in St. Louis, it’s hard to go wrong with Italian anywhere on the hill. But I can personally vouch for LoRusso’s as one of the best Italian restaurants I’ve ever enjoyed outside of Italy.

Since we had the young guys it was appropriate to visit Delmar Avenue, an entertainment area at the heart of a number of college campuses. It has bars, shops, live music, and all the spirited atmosphere you’d expect in a college town. We walked the sidewalks and read the embedded stars, like the Hollywood Walk of Fame, honoring notable St. Louis legends.

A visit to the area is not complete without a stop by the Blueberry Hill. Once a month legendary rock icon Chuck Berry still performs there. But it’s a tough ticket. Berry will pick up his guitar Wednesday night and play the Blueberry for his 86th birthday celebration! That’s amazing!

Saturday mornings for me are often a little wine shopping. After an internet search and some reviews, we settled on visiting the nearby Wine Merchant on Hanley Ave. It also proved to be a great choice. They’re known for their Burgundy supply and it wasn’t hard to see why. I was incredibly impressed by the staff knowledge and ability to match the right wine to just what the customer wanted. They also had a nice selection of cheese from around the world. It’s a great shop. I signed up for their email newsletter for their deals and Burgundy offerings.

Oh, that $48 Ruffino Modus Super Tuscan we had at dinner retails at about $23 at Wine Merchant. That’s a typical restaurant markup and only one I’m willing to pay when enjoying a great restaurant. It was worth the $48 at dinner, but a very good value for a more reasonable $23.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

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Fellow U.S. Wine Writers From Bordeaux Visit

02 Monday Jul 2012

Posted by Howard in Food & Travel, France

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Bordeaux, wine writers

 Me, Janelle, Denise, and Pam – wine writers all!

Getting to tour the great wine regions with other writers/bloggers is a great opportunity to meet people with a similar interest. But it’s also interesting to hear what others are doing with their blogs and writing. Everyone also brings different levels of wine expertise.

There were plenty of wine writers in Bordeaux for the Fete le Vin. The sponsoring organization had groups from several countries. We often mixed and matched during the three days which made it fun.

This is the first of several “catch up” posts. I have a full Sunday of travel to get home and will post this one or whatever else I can. The U.S. contingent consisted of two midwesterners, a west coast representative and a U.S. native living in England.

Texas native Mary, owner of Decanter Tours
was such a help with her years of knowledge
about the Bordeaux wine region.

We spent Saturday morning together on a boat with great seafood, wine, incredible scenery, and great company.

Janelle Carter works out of Chicago. She is a former attorney who has gotten serious about her wine. You can learn more from her blog, the Cork Chronicles. Janelle and I shared a similar plight of delayed arrival and lost luggage.

Pam Mandell has a great attitude as a wine novice but great experience as a travel writer. Check out here NerdsEyeView blog.

Denise Medrano considers California home but now lives in England. Her wine blog is The Wine Sleuth.

NOTE: I started writing this post this morning during a layover in Nice, France. My flight was delayed which means I missed my connection to Indianapolis when I arrived in New York. So I’m in airport hotel tonight and will fly home tomorrow. The travel fun just never ends!

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

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One Sweet Ride Down the Garone River

30 Saturday Jun 2012

Posted by Howard in Food & Travel, France

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Garone River, Sauternes, Sweet Bordeaux

A view of the ;festival as we pull away from the river bank.

BORDEAUX, France – A long Friday in wine country ended with a leisurely cruise down the Garone River and back in time to see the light show and fireworks capping each night of the Fete du Vin.

Talking sweet wine with Perromat

Producers of sweet Bordeaux wines joined us on the cruise telling us about their family history, production, and more about this unique product. Many people have heard of Sauternes but there are 11 appelations in Bordeaux, left and right bank, producing sweet wines. The region is about 30 miles south of Bordeaux.

See Friday photo highlights here.

While many people think of the wines as dessert, Guillaume Perromat of Chateau d’Armajan told me he thinks they make a better match with appetizers.

At first I found most of the wines a big sweet for my palate but in the latter pourings, we had 10 wines and a matching small bite to try, the acidity was more prounced and the sweetness of the Sauvignon Blanc, Semillion, and Muscadel was more balanced.

Some of the Bordeaux sweet wines make it to the U.S. but not much. Most better wine stores usually have Sauternes. The chef on board our boat paired it with a couple of seafood options and other combinations. While too sweet for my taste, I think sweet Bordeaux would be a big hit with many wine lovers with a palate on the sweeter side.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

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Beautiful Day for Visiting Iconic Saint Emilion Region

29 Friday Jun 2012

Posted by Howard in Food & Travel, France

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Bordeaux, Chateau Lestrille, CIVB, Martin Fuego, ST. Germain du Puch




The vineyards of Saint Emilion’s Chateau Franc Mayne

  SAINT EMILION, France – Even for those with little detailed knowledge of Bordeaux wines many have probably heard of Saint Emilion, the small village on a hill of limestone known for its beautiful Merlot-driven wines.

Francophiles with a taste for Bordeaux will know it for its elegant and silky wines that have been around for centuries.

Our Friday was shared with a Brit and a couple of German bloggers for a visit to Chateau Franc Mayne and the village. This is not unusual. We were joined by Chinese bloggers, another story or blog late, at dinner last night. Tomorrow morning French and Belgian bloggers will join our small U.S. group.

Our tour guide for the day was Mary Dardenne of Decanter Tours. Mary has more than a dozen years leading tours in the Bordeaux region and started her own agency, Decanter Tours, just three years ago.

On the ride out to Saint Emilion, Mary gave us great background on all of Bordeaux, some history of the region, of the wine growing, soils, and of the wine classifications of Saint Emilion. Mary was Texas born but has been in France for many years though she still maintains a Brewster, MA., address as well.

We spent a good portion of our time asking Mary questions about wine tourism in Bordeaux. For many, the area has always seemed unapproachable but that is changing. You still can’t drive up to wineries and taste their wines but French Chateau owners are beginning to embrace tourism as a new revenue stream. I also did a video interview with Mary about tourism that I’ll use for a future story.

James Capon of Chateau Franc Mayne pouring two wines.

We were met at Chateau Franc Mayne by native Brit James Capon who works in exporting for the winery. James gave us a walking tour of the winery and a look at the beautiful accommodations of the Chateau. They have a handful of rooms at the Chateau just a few miles outside Saint Emilion. It is a boutique experience staying at Franc Mayne but looks worth the 200E-380E price. There are beautiful views of the surrounding village, a natural swimming pool, beautiful grounds, and we had a fabulous lunch.

Unquestionable, one of the day’s highlights was a tour of Franc Mayne’s underground quarries. They have nearly two hectares, or about four acres, of underground quarries that provided limestone for the iconic buildings of Bordeaux. Franc Mayne’s Belgian owners also understand tourism. They have built a light and animatied tour throughout a portion of the quarries for future visitors. They tested it on our press group but did not allow us to take photos.

The winery owners hope to have the animated tour up and running soon. The tour provides narration about wine aging in the caves and gives a dramatic presentation on the history of the Saint Emilion region.

I detail much of the visit the accompanying photo album. I’ve written before during wine travel that one such trip will increase your wine knowledge and understanding of a region far more than any amount of reading.

We then headed off to the village of Saint Emillion where a tourist office guide walked us through the catacombs of the old village and through the monolithic church which has been delcared a World Unesco Heritage site. There are more than 173 acres of catacombs beneath the city.  Saint Emilion lived below ground here in the 8th century for 17 years.

The church was carved from solid limestone removing 15,000 cubic meters of rock to create the church. It is a stunning site.

The charming and acient little village clearly is a tourist attraction. There seemed to be 3-4 wine shops per street with small bakeries selling macroons in between.

Fellow U.S. bloggers Pam and Janelle with
Saint Emilion tour guide.

As good as yesterday was with a visit to a small village it just seems to get better. Tonight we board a river boat and cruise the Garone River for dinner as the Fete du Vin hits high gear with huge crowds, fireworks and a light show. We should have a front row seat from the river.

Tomorrow morning it’s off to the Atlantic to tour an inland bay where oysters are harvested. Plenty of white Bordeaux is on the menu as well.

This is really tough work – really – but someone has to do it.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

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