Tools of the trade!!

I’ve had some dynamite wines lately a bit all over the price point so it’s past time to share the results. All of these, with one exception, should not be too hard to find.

So I round up the bottles of my recent wines, pour a glass of a nice French blend (see details below), grab a few little crackers and let’s go!

Labyrinth Haka 2008 Tempranillo – It’s probably just wrong to be suspicious of a grape grown outside the area where it’s best know – but hey, we’re all skeptics. I’ve had some pretty good Tempranillo from the U.S. West Coast before. The Twisted Oak version comes immediately to mind as a great wine. Lange Estates, the Pinot Noir folk, make a pretty good Tempranillo that just disappears off their shelves.

A year ago I traveled to Paso Robles and became a big fan of that regions wines. So when I passed this bottle on the shelf I had to give it a try. It’s just the second vintage for the well-respected Labyrinth folks to produce the traditional Spanish grape.

Simply put, this is a fabulous food wine. It falls somewhere between medium and full-bodied wine that has big fruit, some depth, and a very soft and memorable finish. It comes in at 14.5% alcohol and sees 13 months in oak. (Labryrinth Haka 2002 Tempranillo, $18.99, Kahn’s Wines, Indy, Highly Recommended.)

Domaine Grand Veneur Les Champauvins Alain Jaume & Fils – This just might be the best value wine for the price I’ve ever tasted. Seriously. Domaine Grand Veneur Cotes du Rhone wine is a Grenache driven wine with stunning full fruit and smoothness. It’s 70 percent Grenache, 20 percent Syrah, and 10 percent Mourvedre – so very much a traditional French GSM wine.

It’s fabulous quality might be partially understood knowing the vineyard borders the Chateauneuf-du-Pape appellation, the very best the area has to offer.

I loved the red berry aroma and flavors of this wine. It is rich and perfectly balanced. Many would use words like smooth, and even silky to describe this beauty. Online I found this wine at up to $19. I paid $14.99 for a bottle a few weeks ago and after opening it called the shop and had them set back a half case. (Domaine Grand Veneur Les Champauvins Alain Jaume & Fils , $14.99, Grapevine Cottage, Zionsville, IN., Very Highly Recommended)

Robert Mondavi Private Selection 2010 Pinot Noir – So as I’ve written here several times I do get sample wine shipped to me from a number of marketing firms. A few weeks back I got a couple bottle of Mondavi’s $20-$30 wines which I truly enjoy. Since then I got a Cabernet and Pinot Noir from the Private Selection (about $11) label.

I never have very high expectations of a Pinot Noir under $11 but this one just rocked all my perceptions. It was typical California Pinot Noir with bold fruit and a soft oak finish. It might have been as good an $15 Pinot as I’ve ever had. I’m now quite anixous to try the Cab to see if it holds up as well.

The great thing about this wine is it should be very easy to find. This line of Mondavi wines can be found in Kroger and many local supermarket and liquor stores. It will shock you with it’s quality. Now, it’s not a Russian River Valley and no where near an Oregon Pinot. But for grocery store, Central California coast wine, it rocks. (Mondavi 2010 Private Selection Pinot Noir, SRP $11, trade sample, Highly Recommended at the price point.)

Chateau Mas Neuf 2010 Rhone Paradox – This nifty white wine offers a lot of wow factor for a Rhone white wine. I’ve tried a lot of white Rhone wines this summer and many left me unimpressed or with just an ‘okay’ reaction.

I liked this Chatau Mas Neuf blend of 65 percent White Grenache and 35 percent Roussane a lot. It has a freshness that many of the others didn’t show, maybe even a delicate characteristic. The tasting notes suggest peach .. but I’d go a bit further and say white peach … a bit of tartness that I loved. This wine is a great one with snacks, chatting with friends, or would hold up to lighter meals.

Exploring French whites, particularly from the Rhone region, has been a fun summer project I’m glad I carried into the fall. This is refreshing yet interesting. There are layers of flavor beyond many of the $10-$12 Rhone whites. Reviewers at The Rhone Report gave this white 89 points. I’m sipping a glass while writing this entry! (Chateau Mas Neuf Rhone Paradox, $10-$12, though I paid slightly more at Grapevine Cottage, Highly Recommended)
Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

I don’t consider myself a restaurant reviewer really but I do eat in enough fine dining establishments to offer some observations. I’ve tried to do a post on Grape Sense any time I visit a better restaurant and this week I have a stellar lineup.

I dined for the first time Tuesday night at FARM Bloomington and will be returning for my third visit Friday night to Iron Chef Michael Symon’s Lola Bistro in Cleveland.

Farm Bloomington follows the pattern of farm-to-fork restaurants that is exploding across the country. It’s probably safe to say few have the pedigree of Chef Daniel Orr. When you check out the Farm website be sure to read the chef’s bio.

Pork jowl with blueberry chutney on top

But how about Farm’s menu and food? A friend and I headed to Bloomington, In., to see an IU student production of the musical Hair. I made reservations several weeks ago to make sure we had a table at Bloomington’s latest hotspot. The décor is simple and the restaurant can get pretty loud when booked but the food is eclectic, inventive, and definitely delicious.

We both started with the Broccolli and Smoked Gouda soup. It was creamy with a wonderfully smooth texture. The Scholar’s Inn white bread which was deep-fried into croutons was insanely good.

I had the Anise and Cinnamon Braised Local Pork Jowl with root vegetables, “Chieftain” wild rice, with Michigan Blueberry Chutney. The pork, which is a tougher cut, was tender with just enough fat for flavor. The anise was strong throughout the dish, that strong licorice flavor was a tad over-powering but the uniqueness of the flavor combination was really enjoyable.

A nice, thick bone-in pork chop

My friend had the Grilled Gunthorp Bone-In Pork Chop with local pear and bourbon glaze, winter squash puree with pumpkin pepitas, and caramelized celericac. The thick chop was marvelous (ok we traded bites). It was moist and cooked perfectly. The pumpkin added a tad too much sweetness but again the one flaw in the dish was very minor.

We each had a glass of Spanish Garnacha blanc. It was a tad on the lighter sweeter side, but with a touch of acid proved a nice pairing for our medium-seasoned pork dishes.

For dessert we split a persimmon cheesecake bar with cranberries that was devine.

The damage – two soup, two entrees, one dessert, two glasses of wine and one cup of decaf came to $90 without tip.

If you have any reason to get close to Bloomington or IU, Farm is a destination restaurant.

I hope to get a blog post up Friday night after visiting Lolas. The two previous visits have ranked right near the top of my all-time restaurant meals.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

There’s nothing better than an October weekend drive. The leaves are turning, the cider is fresh, and you might even find some frost on the pumpkin. Oh, and don’t forget the apples!

There’s also no better time to visit local wineries. Many Midwestern wineries turn fall into festivals with special wines, food, and entertainment.

Let Grape Sense be your weekend travel guide. One of my favorite journeys is to Southern Indiana to visit Turtle Run and Huber Wineries. Turtle Run has a big day planned Oct. 16 with live music. Huber winery has live music every Saturday and Sunday through October.

Turtle Run’s Jim Pfeiffer

While visiting Turtle Run say hello to winemaker and owner Jim Pfeiffer. Try some of his uniquely blended red and white wines.

Huber has quite a festival each October. The apple orchards are full of fruit and the kids can pick out a pumpkin for that special jack-o-lantern.

Huber makes some of Indiana’s best red wines. Try there Generations and Heritage blends. They also make a really nice Cabernet Franc.

Jim Butler

On the way south or coming back north go through Bloomington and make a stop at Butler winery’s tasting room downtown or out at the winery north of the city. Jim Butler is one of Indiana’s most-respected winemakers.

Try his wonderful dry Rose, Chambourcin, and dynamite specialty wines.

If you want more of a trip head up to the southwest corner of Michigan. Stop in at the Round Barn Winery, Tabor Hill, and Domaine Berrien Cellars.

The Round Barn has a wide variety of wines and a brewery where they craft beer. I’d recommend the Gewurztraminer. Bring a bottle or two home for your Thanksgiving Turkey.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Time for a quick look at some wines I’ve enjoyed in the last few days. Two of the three I found in Central Indiana. The other would be hard to find.
Ocaso 2008 Bonarda-Syrah – I picked this wine up on a whim because it was a 50-50 blend and it caught my eye in an Indianapolis 21st Amendment Liquor Store. 21st Amendment, for those outside Indianapolis, is one of those big mega stores with lots of wine, beer, and liquor. But they’re wine selection is quite good.

I have had various Argentian blends with one of my favorite, if not slightly obscure, grapes – Bonarda. I liked this one a lot. I was very much medium bodied with nice dark fruit. The Syrah provided big fruit while the Bonarda brought some nice soft and smoky round palate feel. It was an enjoyable and easy-to-drink wine.

Winemaker Patricio Gouguenheim makes an affordable wine that drinks well above it’s price. It’s hard to image a better glass of wine under $10. (Ocaso 2008 Bonarda Syrah, $9.98, Recommended.)

PasoPort 2010 Vinho Verde – I got this wine from a Paso Robles wine club so you’re unlikely to find it at your neighborhood shop or liquor store. The point in even reviewing it is to promote Albarino. Albarino is grown largely in Spain and Portugal but continues to make inroads in California.

This 100 percent PasoPort Albarino is a really nice representation of the grape. It’s bright and crisp without overpowering acidity. I found it to be a delightfully fresh glass of wine. The price point is $28 but you can find many Albarino wines between $10-$15. This would be great with seafood or sitting on the porch.

(PasoPort 2010 Vinho Verde, $28, Highly Recommended.)

Domaine de Noire 2009 Chinon – This is Cabernet Franc for you newcomers. Chinon is in France’s Loire Valley and produces marvelous white wines, primarily Chenin Blanc. Their primary red wine is Cab Franc. Franc is used often as a blending wine but can be a really nice glass of softer red wine with a hint of a spicy finish.

This one is a good one and I’ve seen it in several Central Indiana wine stores. It has rich fruit and a nice fall spicy flavor – much like cider or a pumpkin pie. You know, it has the kind of spice in mild flavors that fully complement the fruit.

Look for this grape from Michigan and some Indiana producers. It does well in the midwest.

(Domaine de Noire, $16, Recommended, Grapevine Cottage, Zionsville)

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

There is a joke in the wine world that goes something like this: ‘What’s the difference between a case of Syrah and a case of pneumonia?’

Steve Cass

“Supermarket sales are down and you look and see Syrah sales are down,” said Steve Cass, Cass Winery, Paso Robles, CA. “But also take a look and you see Australian sales are down. There is a massive amount of Syrah or Shiraz (same grape) in this country going out at a fairly low price point. It’s not going out as premium wine.

Gary Eberle

California’s Syrah pioneer Gary Eberle agreed. “I think everybody is always looking for the new hot wine. When Merlot died I think everybody started looking for the next hot red wine and everybody jumped on Syrah. I just don’t think the consumer was ready for that much Syrah.”

J.C. Diesenderfer

J.C. Diesenderfer, Hope Vineyards, said Syrah never found its market niche’. “We’re all really passionate about Syrah. We always felt Syrah was the next king of California. But it never found its spot. Syrah can be bright, mineral, soft and elegant. It can be a big bruiser. It can be anything in between.”

Terry Hoage

Then there is former NFL safety turned winemaker Terry Hoage who said Syrah sells when consumers are educated and they taste good Syrah. “I think it is a matter of education because it’s difficult for people to know what they’re getting. The largest hurdle we have to overcome in our industry is not dumbing down for the audience but making the audience feel comfortable that’s its ok to try new things. Push the envelope; just don’t go for a safe Cabernet. That is probably our biggest challenge.”

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Great news in this morning’s email. The Connorsville New-Examiner becomes the 18th newspaper carrying Grape Sense, my newspaper column.

The News-Examiner‘s nearly 8,000 subscribers push the combined homes to 233,000 in Indiana and Illinois receiving the column in their hometown paper.

Editor Bob Hansen was swayed by friend Andrea Smithson, editor at the Shelbyville News. It’s interesting that these small and mid-size community editors find out interest in wine and wine education exists where some might not expect to find it.

It’s great to hit 18 newspapers as I approach my three-year anniversary writing the column. Now, I need to add two more and get it to 20!

Welcome aboard Connorsville and thanks Editor Hansen!

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

I’ve been extolling the virtues of Dry Rose’ since writing this blog. I keep finding new wines that excite me that scare people away. If’ it’s called Rose, folks, or if it is pink — it is NOT a bad thing.

White Zinfandel, that of the pinkish hue, is enough to frighten anyone. But great dry Rose’ is as far away from White Zinfandel as one can get.

Dry Rose’ is enjoyed in the summer months. Many red wine drinkers find it more satisfying than white but still not quite the powerhouse of many reds.

Tuesday night I opened a Chateau de Pena – or Cuvee de Pena 2010 Rose. The wine is 60 percent Grenache and 40 percent Syrah. It’s full flavored with a light touch. You’ll get a little hint of strawberry, and maybe melon. What you will remember is how easy it is to drink and enjoy.

Don’t be afraid to try Rose’ with food. It will hold up to many lighter meals. Tonight I had some wonderfully simple Shrimp salad I picked up at an upper-scale market in Indianapolis. There was a very light dressing on fresh shrimp with herbs. I added a hunk of crusty bread and couldn’t have been happier.

Oh, by the way did I mention this wine can be found around the $10 price point?

For those that find it important, the Cuve de Pena Rose comes from the Languedoc-Roussillon region of France. It’s just delightful. I’d give this wine a Highly Recommended!

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

A little exploring with Cabernet Franc has provided satisfying results in recent weeks. I have read in national publications and blogs about the merits of Cab Franc from France’s Loire Valley.

I’ve bought a couple and so far like most of them. My best experience to date was Cab Franc – from all places – upper state Michigan. My previous tastes of Cab Franc were mostly disappointing to down right awful.

So I’ve been buying some French Cab Franc and enjoying it. The Loire Valley is known mostly for it’s white wines – Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc. But it’s also known for its bottlings of 100 percent Cabernet Franc.

Chinon is the Loire region for Cab Franc and about the only part of the region known for red wine grapes. The wines are known for acidity and spiced fruit flavors. I agree with the spiced fruit flavors but haven’t found most of the Cab Francs I’ve consumed to be over-the-topic acidic.

Tonight I opened a bottle of Domaine du Grand Bouqueteau 2006 Chinon. It had the classic stinky nose of French Burgundy or Beaujolais – which I love. It was quite acidic and out-of-whack on opening but softened considerably with just a little bit of time.

It has pronounced fruit and an herbal quality I found pleasing. After decanting, or simply being open a while, it would be a fine sipper without food. I had the wine with a salt-n-peppered Ribeye and some veggies. It was quite nice. It was even better with the couple pieces of dark chocolate afterwards.

You can find many of these wines around the $15 price point in better wine shops. Cabernet Franc should not be thought of as just a blending grape. Pick up a bottle and you might be surprised how easy a good Cab Franc drinks with food or alone.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

I’m trying hard to get back into the swing of things after a busy start to our College school year and return to my reviews and the blog.

Tonight I have four wines I’ve recently enjoyed and that are really easy to find. Two Cotes du Rhone – a white and a red. I also enjoyed one of the best Italian whites I’ve ever had along with with a real value Zin from Mendocino Co. in California.

Michel Gassier Cercius White 2009 – I love this French white wine with 70 percent Grenache Blanc and 30 percent Sauvignon Blanc. It is so refreshing on the palate where you’ll find some hints of melon and citrus. I get floral notes and just love the smooth rich feel on the palate. It has an enjoyably long finish for a white wine. Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate gave this wine 90s points. (Highly Recommended, $13-$15. I bought this at Cork + Cracker, Indianapolis)

E. Guigal 2007 Cotes du Rhone – This traditional blend of 50 percent Syrah, 40 percent Grenache, and 10 percent Mourvedre delivers everything you’d expect in a solid Cotes du Rhone red wine. I didn’t find this to be as earthy or as comples a wine as many – but it’s quite enjoyable. It would be a great red for introduction to newbies or introduction to French wines. (Recommended, $14.99, Grapevine Cottage, Zionsville)

Bonterra 2008 Mendocino County Zinfandel – I visited Mendocino early this year and found some of the most approachable, full-flavored Zinfandels I’ve ever tasted. This value bottle had nice pepper and hints of blueberry. I have to note that I’ve read “blueberry” as a flavor characteristic in other wine reviews and never really got it until I drank this wine. If you prefer “dark fruit” – well, that works too! It’s big enough to please most Zin fans but not overpowering. Wine Enthusiast gave this organically grown Zin 90 points. (Recommended, $11, Cork + Cracker, Indianapolis)

Litorale 2009 Vermentino -Vermentino is a grape I’ve tried a handful of times and was just always left unimpressed. That changed in a big way with the 2009 Litorale version. I loved this white wine that definitely has a pleasant but different flavor profile than most wine drinkers might be familiar. Vermentino is farmed along Italy’s coast near Tuscany. It is a crisp white wine with an enjoyable floral richness. It’s not nearly as acidic as some I’ve tasted previously. (Highly recommended, $14.99, Cork + Cracker, Indy)

These wines should all be widely available wherever fine wines are sold in Indiana. I note where I bought them for readers’ convenience.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Is it Italian or French?

Is the wine a unique ancient varietal?

Or, is it the same grape as Argentina’s Bonarda or maybe a genetic cousin?

Charbono, a grape most have never heard of, is making a small comeback. It wasn’t long ago that U.S. plantings had dwindled to about 10 acres. The latest available statistics show Charbono’s plantings have grown to 80 acres, all in California.

As written here before, one of the great experiences in wine enjoyment is trying new wines. It won’t be easy to find a Charbono but it is worth the effort. The wine is a very inky, dark purple with a rich red-fruit flavor. Cherry and raspberry dominate the palate with a bit of spice on the finish. The tannins, or finish, tend to be quite smooth.

The grape is interesting because of its confusing heritage. The grape was once thought to be related to Italy’s little Dolcetto grape from Piedmont. But it actually comes from the Savoie region in France. That explains how the grape migrated to Argentina along with Malbec.

The ancestral trail was tracked down by Department of Viticulture and Enology at University of California, Davis. Researchers there, the most prestigious U.S. research college for wine grapes, determined Charbono was the same grape as Bonarda and mostly likely the same grape under the names of Corbeau, Douce Noire, or Charbonneau.

Sally Ottoson, Pacific Star Winery

There is quite a bit of Charbono grown around Calistoga in Napa Valley and some in Mendocino County. Names you might look for include: August Briggs, Turley, Chameleon, Shypoke, Joseph Laurence Shypoke, Robert Foley, Saddleback, Dunnewood, Tofanelli, Fortino, and Consentino Heitz. The wine tends to retail in the high teens to the low $30 range.

“All the winemakers in California who are bottling it have to fight over the grapes,” Sally Ottoson, Pacific Star Winery told INTOWINE.com. “But back in the ‘70’s Inglenook was doing a Charbono, and so was Parducci.

“John Parducci was really a mentor for me. I think Charbono is a very universal wine. It’s not too tannic and not too acidic — a real food friendly wine. People always ask me to describe the grape’s characteristics, but that’s a difficult thing to do because it doesn’t have a distinct flavor profile like other grapes. So I like to say, it’s like an old woman who puts perfume in the same spot every day and it kind of sinks into her skin and you get this essence that evokes memories.”

I met Sally during a press wine trip to Mendocino in January. Her stunning location on the rocky Pacific shore about 12 miles north of Fort Bragg is worth the trip alone. She makes a wide variety of wines and has worked in California wine since 1972.

Her winemaking style is blend-o-holic. “I like to add a little bit of this to a little bit of that,” she said during that visit. “We make a huge effort to make wine fun. Don’t agonize over it. I make wine the old-fashioned way. I make wine in barrels.”

During the same trip I met Maria Martinson of Testa House winery. Her family settled in California in the very early 1900s as Italian immigrants. She had a beautiful Charbono that was not yet released. We tasted the fifth generation winemaker’s juice straight from the barrel.

Finding Charbono might be a challenge in the Midwest. But you can usually find a good Argentinian Bonarda at better wine shops.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com